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TO THE KING.

SIR,

      YOUR MAJESTY having been graciously pleased to permit my late brother CAPTAIN GEORGE VANCOUVER, to present to YOUR MAJESTY the Narrative of his labours during the execution of your commands in the Pacific Ocean, I presume to hope, that, since it has pleased the Divine Providence to withdraw him from YOUR MAJESTY'S service, and from the society of his friends, before he could avail himself of that condescension, YOUR MAJESTY will, with

the same benignity, vouchsafe to accept it from my hands, in discharge of the melancholy duty which has devolved upon me by that unfortunate event.

      I cannot but indulge the hope that the following pages will prove to YOUR MAJESTY, that CAPTAIN VANCOUVER was not undeserving the honour of the trust reposed in him; and that he has fulfilled the object of his commission from YOUR MAJESTY with diligence and fidelity.

      Under the auspices of YOUR MAJESTY, the late indefatigable CAPTAIN COOK had already shewn that a southern continent did not exist, and had ascertained the important fact of the near approximation of the northern shores of Asia to those of America. To those great discoveries the exertions of CAPTAIN VANCOUVER will, I trust, be found to have added the complete certainty, that, within the limits of his researches on the continental shore of North-West America,

NO INTERNAL SEA, OR OTHER NAVIGABLE COMMUNICATION whatever exists, uniting the Pacific and Atlantic oceans.

INTRODUCTION.

IN contemplating the rapid progress of improvement in the sciences, and the general diffusion of knowledge, since the commencement of the eighteenth century, we are unavoidably led to observe, with admiration, that active spirit of discovery, by means of which the remotest regions of the earth have been explored; a friendly communication opened with their inhabitants; and various commodities, of a most valuable nature, contributing either to relieve their necessities, or augment their comforts, introduced among the less-enlightened part of our species. A mutual intercourse has been also established, in many instances, on the solid basis of a reciprocity of benefits; and the productive labour of the civilized world has found new markets for the disposal of its manufactures. Nor has the balance of trade been wholly against the people of the newly-discovered countries; for, whilst some have been enabled to supply their visitors with an abundance of food, and the most valuable refreshments, in exchange for iron, copper, useful implements, and articles of ornament; the industry of others has been stimulated to procure the skins of animals, and other articles of a commercial nature; which they have found to be eagerly fought for by the traders who now resort to their shores from Europe, Asia, and the eastern side of North America.

The great naval powers of Europe, inspired with a desire not only of acquiring, but also of communicating, knowledge, had extended their researches, in the 16th and 17th centuries, as far into the pacific ocean as their limited information of the geography of the earth, at that time, enabled them to penetrate. Some few attempts had also been made by this country towards the conclusion of each of those centuries; but it was not until the year 1764 that Great-Britain, benefiting by the experience of former enterprizes, laid the foundation for that vast accession of geographical knowledge, which she has since obtained by the persevering spirit of her successive distinguished circumnavigators.

      By the introduction of nautical astronomy into marine education, we are taught to sail on the hypothenuse, instead of traversing two sides of a triangle, which was the usage in earlier times; by this means, the circuitous course of all voyages from place to place is considerably shortened; and it is now become evident, that sea officers of the most common-rate abilities, who will take the trouble of making themselves acquainted with the principles of this science, will, on all suitable occasions, with proper and correct instruments, be enabled to acquire a knowledge of their situation in the atlantic, indian, or pacific oceans, with a degree of accuracy sufficient to steer on a meridional or diagonal line, to any known spot; provided it be sufficiently conspicuous to be visible at any distance from five to ten leagues.

      This great improvement, by which the most remote parts of the terrestrial globe are brought so easily within our reach, would, nevertheless, have been, comparatively, of little utility, had not those happy means been discovered, for preserving the lives and health of the officers and seamen engaged in such distant and perilous undertakings; which

were so successfully practised by Captain Cook the first great discoverer of this salutary system, in all his latter voyages round the globe. But in none have the effects of his wise regulations regimen, and discipline, been more manifest, than in the course of the expedition of which the following pages are designed to treat. To an unremitting attention, not only to food, cleanliness, ventilation, and an early administration of antiseptic provisions and medicines, but also to prevent, as much as possible, the chance of indisposition, by prohibiting individuals from carelessly exposing themselves to the influence of climate, or unhealthy indulgences in times of relaxation, and by relieving them from fatigue and the inclemency of the weather the moment the nature of their duty would permit them to retire; is to be ascribed the preservation of the health and lives of sea-faring people on long voyages. Instead of vessels returning from parts, by no means very remote, with the loss of one half, and sometimes two thirds, of their crews, in consequence of scorbutic, and other contagious disorders; instances are now not wanting of laborious services having been performed in the most distant regions, in which, after an absence of more than three or four years, during which time the vessels had been subjected to all the vicissitudes of climate, from the scorching heat of the torrid zone to the freezing blasts of the arctic or antarctic circles, the crews have returned in perfect health, and consisting nearly of every individual they had carried out; whilst those who unfortunately had not survived, either from accident or disease, did not exceed in number the mortality that might reasonably have been expected, during the same period of time, in the most healthy situations of this country. To these valuable improvements, Great-Britain is, at this time, in a great measure indebted, for her present exalted station amongst

the nations of the earth; and it should seem, that the reign of George the Third had been reserved, by the Great Disposer of all things, for the glorious task of establishing the grand key-stone to that expansive arch, over which the arts and sciences should pass to the furthermost corners of the earth, for the instruction and happiness of the most lowly children of nature. Advantages so highly beneficial to the untutored parts of the human race, and so extremely important to that large proportion of the subjects of this empire who are brought up to the sea service, deserve to be justly appreciated; and it becomes of very little importance to the bulk of our society, whose enlightened humanity teaches them to entertain a lively regard for the welfare and interest of those who engage in such adventurous undertakings for the advancement of science, or for the extension of commerce, what may be the animadversions or sarcasms of those few unenlightened minds that may peevishly demand, "what beneficial consequences, if any, have followed, or are likely to follow, to the discoverers, or to the discovered, to the common interests of humanity, or to the increase of useful knowledge, from all our boasted attempts to explore the distant recesses of the globe?" The learned editor*, who has so justly anticipated this injudicious remark, has, in his very comprehensive introduction to Captain Cook's last Voyage, from whence the above quotation is extracted, given to the public, not only a complete and satisfactory answer to that question, but has treated every other part of the subject of Discovery so ably, as to render any further observations on former voyages of this description totally unnecessary, for the purpose of bringing the reader acquainted with what

* Dr. Douglas, now Bishop of Salisbury.

had been accomplished, previously to my being honored with His Majesty's commands to follow up the labours of that illustrious navigator Captain James Cook; to whose steady, uniform, indefatigable, and undiverted attention to the several objects on which the success of his enterprizes ultimately depended, the world is indebted for such eminent and important benefits.

      Those benefits did not long remain unnoticed by the commercial part of the British nation. Remote and distant voyages being now no longer objects of terror, enterprizes were projected. and carried into execution, for the purpose of establishing new and lucrative branches of commerce between North West America and China; and parts of the coast of the former that had not been minutely examined by Captain Cook, became now the general resort of the persons thus engaged.

      Unprovided as these adventurers were with proper astronomical and nautical instruments, and having their views directed almost intirely to the object of their employers, they had neither the means, nor the leisure, that were indispensably requisite for amassing any certain geographical information. This became evident, from the accounts of their several voyages given to the public; in which, notwithstanding that they positively contradicted each other, as well in geographical and nautical facts as in those of a commercial nature, they yet agreed in filling up the blanks in the charts of Captain Cook with extensive islands, and a coast apparently much broken by numberless inlets, which they had left almost intirely unexplored.

      The charts accompanying the accounts of their voyages, representing the North West coast of America to be so much broken by the waters of the pacific, gave encouragement once more to hypotheses;

and the favorite opinion that had slept since the publication of Captain Cook's last voyage of a north-eastern communication between the waters of the pacific and atlantic oceans, was again roused from its slate of slumber, and brought forward with renovated vigour. Once more the archipelago of St. Lazarus was called forth into being, and its existence almost assumed, upon the authority of a Spanish admiral named De Fonte, De Fonta, or De Fuentes; and of a Mr. Nicholas Shapely, from Boston in America, who was stated to have penetrated through this archipelago, by failing through a mediterranean sea, on the coast of North-West America, within a few leagues of the oceanic shores of that archipelago; where he is said to have met the Admiral. The straits said to have been navigated by Juan De Fuca were also brought forward in support of this opinion; and, although the existence or extent of these discoveries remained still to be proved by an authenticated survey of the countries which had been thus stated to have been seen and passed through, yet the enthusiasm of modern closet philosophy, eager to revenge itself for the refutation of its former fallacious speculations, ventured to accuse Captain Cook of "hastily exploding" its systems; and, ranking him amongst the pursuers of peltry, dared even to drag him forward himself in support of its visionary conjectures.

      With what reason, or with what justice, such animadversions have been cast upon one, who, unhappily for the world, does not survive to enforce his own judicious opinions; influenced as they were, by no prejudice, nor biassed by any pre-conceived theory or hypothesis, but founded on the solid principles of experience, and of ocular demonstration; it is not my province to decide: let it suffice to say, that the labours of that distinguished character will remain a monument of his pre-eminent

abilities, and dispassionate investigation of the truth, as long as science shall be respected in the civilized world; or as long as succeeding travellers, who shall unite in bearing testimony to the profundity of his judgment, shall continue to obtain credit with the public.

      Although the ardour of the present age, to discover and delineate the true geography of the earth, had been rewarded with uncommon and unexpected success, particularly by the persevering exertions of this great man, yet all was not completed; and though, subsequent to his last visit to the coast of North-West America, no expedition had been projected by Government, for the purpose of acquiring a more exact knowledge of that extensive and interesting country; yet a voyage was planned by His Majesty for exploring some of the Southern regions; and in the autumn of the year 1789 directions were given for carrying it into effect.

      Captain Henry Roberts, of known and tried abilities, who had served under Captain Cook during his two last voyages, and whose attention to the scientific part of his profession had afforded that great navigator frequent opportunities of naming him with much respect, was called upon to take charge of, and to command, the proposed expedition.

      At that period, I had just returned from a flation at Jamaica under the command of Commodore (now Vice-Admiral) Sir Alan Gardner, who mentioned me to Lord Chatham and the Board of Admiralty; and I was solicited to accompany Captain Roberts as his second. In this proposal I acquiesced, and found myself very pleasantly situated, in being thus connected with a fellow-traveller for whose abilities I bore the greatest, respect, and in whose friendship and good opinion I was proud to pos-

sess a place. And as we had failed together with Captain Cook on his voyage towards the south pole, and as both had afterwards accompanied him with Captain Clerke in the Discovery during his last voyage, I had no doubt that we were engaged in an expedition, which would prove no less interesting to my friend than agreeable to my wishes.

      A ship, proper for the service under contemplation, was ordered to be provided. In the yard of Messrs. Randall and Brent, on the banks of the Thames, a vessel of 340 tons burthen was nearly finished; and as she would demand but few alterations to make her in every respect fit for the purpose, the was purchased; and, on her being launched, was named the Discovery.

      The first day of the year 1790 the Discovery was commissioned by Captain Roberts; some of the other officers were also appointed, and the ship was conducted to His Majesty's dock-yard at Deptford, where the was put into a state of equipment; which was ordered to be executed, with all the dispatch that the nature of the service required.

      For some time previous to this period the Spaniards, roused by the successful efforts of the British nation, to obtain a more extended knowledge of the earth, had awoke, as it were, from a slate of lethargy, and had not only ventured to visit some of the newly-discovered islands in the tropical regions of the pacific ocean, but had also, in the year 1775, with a spirit somewhat analogous to that which prompted their first discovery of America, extended their researches to the northward, along the coast of North-West America. But this undertaking did not seem to have reached beyond the acquirement of a very superficial knowledge of the shores; and though these were found to be extremely broken, and divided by the waters of the pacific, yet it does

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not appear that any measures were pursued by them for ascertaining the extent, to which those waters penetrated into the interior of the American continent.

      This apparent indifference in exploring new countries, ought not, however, to be attributed to a deficiency in skill, or to a want of spirit for enterprize, in the commander* of that expedition; because there is great reason to believe, that the extreme caution which has so long and so rigidly governed the court of Madrid, to prevent, as much as possible, not only their American, but likewise their Indian, establishments from being visited by any Europeans, (unless they were subjects of the crown of Spain, and liable to a military tribunal) had greatly conspired, with other considerations of a political nature, to repress that desire of adding to the fund of geographical knowledge, which has so eminently distinguished this country. And hence it is not extraordinary, that the discovery of a north-western navigable communication between the atlantic and pacific oceans, should not have been considered as an object much to be desired by the Spanish court. Since that expedition, however, the Spaniards seem to have considered their former national character as in some measure at stake; and they have certainly become more acquainted than they were with the extensive countries immediately adjoining to their immense empire in the new world; yet the measures that they adopted, in order to obtain that information, were executed in so defective a manner, that all the important questions to geography still remained undecided, and in the same state of uncertainty.

      Towards the end of april, the Discovery was, in most respects, in a condition to proceed down the river, when intelligence was received

that the Spaniards had committed depredations on different branches of the British commerce on the coast of North-West America, and that they had seized on the English vessels and factories in Nootka sound. This intelligence gave rise to disputes between the courts of London and Madrid, which had the threatening appearance of being terminated by no other means than those of reprizal. In consequence of this an armament took place, and the further pacific equipment of the Discovery was suspended; her stores and provisions were returned to the respective offices, and her officers and men were engaged in more active service. On this occasion I resumed my profession under my highly-esteemed friend Sir Alan Gardner, then captain of the Courageux, where I remained until the 17th of the november following; when I was ordered to repair to town for the purpose of attending to the commands of the Board of Admiralty.

      The uncommon celerity, and unparalleled dispatch, which attended the equipment of one of the noblest fleets that Great-Britain ever saw, had probably its due influence upon the court of Madrid, for, in the Spanish convention, which was consequent on that armament, restitution was offered to this country for the captures and aggressions made by the subjects of His Catholic Majesty; together with an acknowledgment of an equal right with Spain to the exercise and prosecution of all commercial undertakings in those seas, reputed before to belong only to the Spanish crown. The extensive branches of the fisheries, and the fur trade to China, being considered as objects of very material importance to this country, it was deemed expedient, that an officer should be sent to Nootka to receive back, in form, a restitution of the territories on which the Spaniards had seized, and also to make an accurate

survey of the coast, from the 30th degree of north latitude north-west ward toward Cook's river; and further, to obtain every possible information that could be collected respecting the natural and political state of that country.

      The outline of this intended expedition was communicated to me, and I had the honor of being appointed to the command of it. At this juncture it appeared to be of importance, that all possible exertion should be made in its equipment; and as the Discovery, which had been selected on the former occasion, was now rigged, some of her stores provided, and she herself considered, in most respects, as a vessel well calculated for the voyage under contemplation, she was accordingly directed to be got ready for that service; and the Chatham armed tender, of 135 tons burthen, built at Dover, having been destined to accompany the Discovery in the voyage which had been abandoned, she was ordered to be equipped to attend on the voyage now to be undertaken, and was sent to Woolwich to receive such necessary repairs and alterations as were deemed requisite for the occasion.

      The Discovery was copper-fastened, sheathed with plank, and coppered over; the Chatham only sheathed with copper. The former mounted ten four-pounders, and ten swivels; the latter, four three-pounders and six swivels. The following list will exhibit the establishment of the officers and men in the two vessels.

I had great reason to be satisfied with these arrangements: the second and third lieutenants, and the master of the Discovery, whom I had the honor of being allowed to name for this service, had all served some years with me, under the command of Sir Alan Gardner, both at home, and in the West-Indies; the other officers were men of known character, possessing good abilities, and excellent dispositions, which their subsequent conduct and zeal, exhibited on all occasions, sufficiently demonstrated.

      In the former equipment of the Discovery, Captain Roberts and myself had undertaken to make all such astronomical and nautical observations, as the circumstances occurring in the voyage might demand. This talk now devolped upon me alone; but with the assistance of Mr. Whidbey, I entertained little doubt of accomplishing the proposed object, at least in an useful manner; for which purpose we were supplied by the Navy Board with such an assortment of instruments as I considered to be necessary.

      It was with infinite satisfaction that I saw, amongst the officers and young gentlemen of the quarter-deck, some who, with little instruction, would soon be enabled to construct charts, take plans of bays and harbours, draw landscapes, and make faithful portraits of the several headlands, coasts, and countries, which we might discover; thus, by the united efforts of our little community, the whole of our proceedings, and the information we might obtain in the course of the voyage, would be rendered profitable to those who might succeed us in traversing the remote parts of the globe that we were destined to explore, without the assistance of professional persons, as astronomers or draftsmen.

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Botany, however, was an object of scientific inquiry with which no one of us was much acquainted; but as, in expeditions of a similar nature, the most valuable opportunities had been afforded for adding to the geral stock of botanical information, Mr. Archibald Menzies, a surgeon in the royal navy, who had before visited the pacific ocean in one of the vessels employed in the fur trade, was appointed for the specific purpose of making such researches; and had, doubtless, given sufficient proof of his abilities, to qualify him for the station it was intended he should sill. For the purpose of preserving such new or uncommon plants as he might deem worthy of a place amongst His Majesty's very valuable collection of exotics at Kew, a glazed frame was erected on the after part of the quarter-deck, for the reception of those he might have an opportunity of collecting.

      The Board of Admiralty, greatly attentive to our personal comforts, gave directions that the Discovery and Chatham should each be supplied with all such articles as might be considered in any way likely to become necessary, during the execution of the long and arduous service in which we were about to engage. Our stores, from the naval arsenals, were ordered to be selected of the very best forts, and to be made with materials of the best quality. In addition to the ordinary establishment, we were supplied with a large assortment of seines and other useful fishing geer of various kinds. The provisions were furnished at the victualling-office with the greatest care, all of which proved to be excellent, and manifested the judgment which had been exercised in the selection and preparation of the several articles. To these were added a large proportion of sour-krout, portable soup, wheat instead of the usual supply of oatmeal for breakfast, the essence of malt

and spruce, malt, hops, dried yeast, flour, and seed mustard; which may all be considered as articles of food. Those of a medicinal nature, with which we were amply supplied, were Dr. James's powders; vitriolic elixir; the rob of lemons and oranges, in such quantities and proportions as the surgeon thought requisite; together with an augmentation to the usual allowance, amounting to a hundred weight, of the best peruvian bark.

      To render our visits as acceptable as possible to the inhabitants of the islands or continent in the pacific ocean, and to establish on a firm basis a friendly intercourse with the several tribes we might occasionally meet with, Lord Grenville directed that a liberal assortment of various European commodities, both of a useful and ornamental nature, should be sent on board from the Secretary of State's office. From the Board of Ordnance the vessels were supplied with every thing necessary for our defence, and amongst other articles were four well-contrived three pound field pieces, for the protection of our little encampment against any hostile attempts of the native Indians, amongst whom we should necessarily have frequent occasion to reside on shore; and for the amusement and entertainment of such as were peaceably and friendly disposed towards us, we were furnished with a most excellent assortment of well-prepared fireworks. So that nothing seemed to have been forgotten, or omitted, that might render our equipment as complete, as the nature of the service we were about to execute could be considered to demand. But as I have hitherto only pointed out in general terms the outline of the intended expedition; the various objects it proposed to embrace, and the end it was expected to answer, will be more clearly perceived by the perusal of the instructions under which I was to sail, and by which I

was to govern my conduct; which will enable the reader to form a judgment, how far His Majesty's commands, during this voyage, have been properly carried into execution.

subjects, the court of Spain has agreed to send orders, for that purpose, to its officers in that part of the world; but, as the particular specification of the parts to be restored may still require some further time, it is intended that the King's orders, for this purpose, shall be sent out to the Sandwich islands, by a vessel to be employed to carry thither a further store of provisions for the sloop and armed tender above mentioned, which it is meant shall sail from this country in time to reach those islands in the course of next winter.

      If, therefore, in consequence of the arrangement to be made with the court of Spain, it should hereafter be determined that you should proceed, in the first instance, to Nootka, or elsewhere, in order to receive, from the Spanish officers, such lands or buildings as are to be restored to the British subjects; orders, to that effect, will be sent out by the vessel above mentioned. But, if no such orders should be received by you previous to the end of january, 1792, you are not to wait for them at the Sandwich islands, but to proceed, in such course as you may judge most expedient for the examination of the coast above mentioned, comprized between latitude 60° north and 30° north.

      In which examination the principal objects which you are to keep in view, are,

      1st, The acquiring accurate information with respect to the nature and extent of any water-communication which may tend, in any considerable degree, to facilitate an intercourse, for the purposes of commerce, between the north-west coast, and the country upon the opposite side of the continent, which are inhabited or occupied by His Majesty's subjects.

2dly, The ascertaining, with as much precision as possible, then umber, extent, and situation of any settlements which have been made within the limits above mentioned, by any European nation, and the time when such settlement was first made.

      With respect to the first object, it would be of great importance if it should be found that, by means of any considerable inlets of the sea, or even of large rivers, communicating with the lakes in the interior of the continent, such an intercourse, as hath been already mentioned, could be established; it will therefore be necessary, for the purpose of ascertaining this point, that the survey should be so conducted, as not only to ascertain the general line of the sea coast, but also the direction and extent of all such considerable inlets, whether made by arms of the sea, or by the mouths of large rivers, as may be likely to lead to, or facilitate, such communication as is above described.

      This being the principal object of the examination, so far as relates to that part of the subject, it necessarily follows, that a considerable degree of discretion must be left, and is therefore left to you, as to the means of executing the service which His Majesty has in view; but, as far as any general instructions can here be given on the subject, it seems desirable that, in order to avoid any unnecessary loss of time, you should not, and are therefore hereby required and directed not to pursue any inlet or river further than it shall appear to be navigable by vessels of such burthen as might safely navigate the pacific ocean: but, as the navigation of such inlets or rivers, to the extent here stated, may possibly require that you should proceed up them further than it might be safe for the sloop you command to go, you are, in such case,

to take the command of the armed tender in person, at all such times, and in such situations as you shall judge it necessary and expedient.

      The particular course of the survey must depend on the different circumstances which may arise in the execution of a service of this nature; it is, however, proper that you should, and you are therefore hereby required and directed to pay a particular attention to the examination of the supposed straits of Juan de Fuca, said to be situated between 48° and 49° north latitude, and to lead to an opening through which the sloop Washington is reported to have passed in 1789, and to have come out again to the northward of Nootka. The discovery of a near communication between any such sea or strait, and any river running into, or from the lake of the woods, would be particularly useful.

      If you should fail of discovering any such inlet, as is above mentioned, to the southward of Cook's river, there is the greatest probability that it will be sound that the said river rises in some of the lakes already known to the Canadian traders, and to the servants of the Hudson's bay company; which point it would, in that case, be material to ascertain; and you are, therefore, to endeavour to ascertain accordingly, with as much precision as the circumstances existing at the time may allow: but the discovery of any similar communication more to the southward (should any such exist) would be much more advantageous for the purposes of commerce, and should, therefore, be preferably attended to, and you are, therefore, to give it a preferable attention accordingly.

      With respect to the second object above mentioned, it is probable that more particular instructions will be given you by the vessel to be

sent to the Sandwich islands as aforesaid; but, if not, you are to be particularly careful in the execution of that, and every other part of the service with which you are entrusted, to avoid, with the utmost caution, the giving any ground of jealousy or complaint to the subjects of His Catholic Majesty; and, if you should fall in with any Spanish ships employed on any service similar to that which is hereby committed to you, you are to afford to the officer commanding such ships every possible degree of assistance and information, and to offer to him, that you, and he, should make to each other, reciprocally, a free and unreserved communication of all plans and charts of discoveries made by you and him in your respective voyages.

      If, in the course of any part of this service, you, or the officers or the people under your command, should meet with the subjects or vessels of any other power or state, you and they are to treat them in the most friendly manner, and to be careful not to do any thing which may give occasion to any interruption of that peace which now happily subsists between His Majesty and all other powers.

      The whole of the survey above mentioned (if carried on with a view to the objects before stated, without too minute and particular an examination of the detail of the different parts of the coast laid down by it) may, as it is understood, probably be completed in the summers of 1792 and 1793; and, in the intermediate winter, it will be proper for you to repair, and you are hereby required and directed to repair accordingly, to the Sandwich islands; and, during your stay there, you are to endeavour to complete any part which may be unfinished of your examination of those islands.

After the conclusion of your survey in the summer of 1793, you are, if the state and circumstances of the sloop and tender under your command will admit of it, to return to England by Cape Horn, (for which the season will then probably be favorable;) repairing to Spithead, where you are to remain until you receive further order; and sending to our secretary an account of your arrival and proceedings.

      It seems doubtful, at present, how far the time may admit of your making any particular examination of the western coast of South America; but, if it should be practicable, you are to begin such examination from the south point of the island of Chiloe, which is in about 44° south latitude; and you are, in that case, to direct your attention to ascertaining what is the most southern Spanish settlement on that coast, and what harbours there are south of that settlement.

      In the execution of every part of this service, it is very material that you should use, and you are therefore hereby strictly charged to use every possible care to avoid disputes with the natives of any of the parts where you may touch, and to be particularly attentive to endeavour, by a judicious distribution of the presents, (which have been put on board the sloop and tender under your command, by order of Lord Grenville) and by all other means, to conciliate their friendship and confidence. Given under our hands the 8th of March, 1791."

      "To

      George Vancouver, Esq. commander of His Majesty's sloop the Discovery,

      At Falmouth.

      By command of their Lordships.

      Ph. Stephens."

      "Chatham.

      Rd. Hopkins.

      Hood.

      J. T. Townshend."

of land, of which His Majesty's subjects were possessed at the above-mentioned period.

      In case, however, this shall not find you at Nootka, when Lieutenant Hergest arrives there, but be delivered to you at the Sandwich islands, or elsewhere, and the said lieutenant shall not have then carried into execution the service above mentioned, (which in the event of his not falling in with you he is directed to do) you are immediately to proceed to Nootka, and to carry that service into execution as above directed, taking the said lieutenant and transport with you if you shall judge it necessary. But as they are intended afterwards to proceed to New South Wales, to be employed there, under the orders of Commodore Phillip, you are not to detain them at Nootka, the Sandwich islands, or elsewhere, longer than may be absolutely necessary, but to direct Lieutenant Hergest: to repair with the said transport to port Jackson, with such live stock, and other refreshments, as may be likely to be of use in the settlements there; and to touch at New Zealand in his way, from whence he is to use his best endeavours to take with him one or two flax-dressers, in order that the new settlers at port Jackson may, if possible, be properly instructed in the management of that valuable plant.

      Previous, however, to your dispatching him to port Jackson, you are to consider whether, in case of your not being able to take on board the whole of the transport's cargo, any future supply of the articles of which it is composed, will be necessary to enable you to continue your intended survey; and, if so, you are to be careful to send notice thereof to Commodore Phillip, who will have directions, on the receipt of your application, to re-dispatch the transport, or to send such other ves-

sel to you with the remainder of those supplies (as well as any others he may be able to furnish) to such rendezvous as you shall appoint.

      And whereas Mr. Dundas has transmitted to us a sketch of the coast of North America, extending from Nootka down to the latitude of 47° 30", including the inlet or gulph of Juan de Fuca; and as from the declarations which have lately been made, there appears to be the strongest disposition, on the part of the Spanish court, that every assistance and information should be given to His Britannic Majesty's officers employed on that coast, with a view to the enabling them to carry their orders into execution; we send you the said sketch herewith, for your information and use, and do hereby require and direct you, to do every thing in your power to cultivate a good understanding with the officers and subjects of His Catholic Majesty who may fall in your way, in order that you may reap the good effects of this disposition of the Spanish court.

      You are to take the utmost care in your power, on no account whatever, to touch at any port on the continent of America, to the southward of the latitude of 30° north, nor to the north of that part of South America, where, on your return home, you are directed to commence your intended survey; unless, from any accident, you shall find it absolutely necessary, for your immediate safety, to take shelter there: and, in case of such an event, to continue there no longer than your necessities require, in order that any complaint on the part of Spain on this point may, if possible, be prevented.

      If, during your continuance on the American coast, you should meet with any of the Chinese who were employed by Mr. Meares and

      VOL. I. d

his associates, or any of His Majesty's subjects. who may have been in captivity, you are to receive them on board the sloop you command, and to accommodate them in the best manner you may be able, until such time as opportunities may be found of sending them to the different places to which they may be desirous of being conveyed; victualling them during their continuance on board, in the same manner as the other persons on board the said sloop are victualled.

      Given under our hands the 20th of august, 1791."

      "To

      George Vancouver, Esq. commander of His Majesty's sloop the Discovery.

      By command of their Lordships.

      Ph. Stephens."

      "Chatham.

      J. T. Townshend.

      A. Gardner."

      "IN conformity to the first article of the convention of 28th october, 1790, between our court and that of London, (printed copies of which you will have already received, and of which another copy is here inclosed, in case the first have not come to hand) you will give directions that His Britannic Majesty's officer, who will deliver this letter, shall immediately be put into possession of the buildings and districts, or parcels of land, which were occupied by the subjects of that sovereign in april, 1789, as well in the port of Nootka, or of Saint Lawrence, as in the other, said to be called port Cox, and to be situated about sixteen leagues distant from the former to the southward; and that such parcels or districts of land, of which the English subjects were dispossessed, be restored to the said officer, in case the Spaniards should not have given them up.

      You will also give orders, that if any individual in the service of British subjects, whether a Chinese, or of any other nation, should have been carried away and detained in those parts, such person shall be immediately delivered up to the above-mentioned officer.

      I also communicate all this to the viceroy of New Spain by His Majesty's command, and by the same royal command I charge you with the most punctual and precise execution of this order.

      May God preserve you many years.

      (Signed)

      Aranjuez, 12th may, 1791.

      To the governor or commander of the port at Saint Lawrence".

      "The Count Florida Blanca."

"By the Commissioners for executing the office of Lord High Admiral of Great-Britain and Ireland, &c.

      IN addition to former orders, you are hereby required and directed, by all proper conveyances, to send to our secretary, for our information, accounts of your proceedings, and copies of the surveys and drawings you shall have made; and, upon your arrival in England, you are immediately to repair to this office, in order to lay before us a full account of your proceedings in the whole course of your voyage; taking care, before you leave the sloop, to demand from the officers, and petty-officers, the log-books, journals, drawings, &c. they may have kept, and to seal them up for our inspection; and enjoining them, and the whole crew, not to divulge where they have been until they shall have permission so to do: and you are to direct the lieutenant commanding the Chatham armed tender to do the same, with respect to the officers, petty-officers, and crew of that tender.

      Given under our hands the 10th of august, 1791."

      Amongst other objects demanding my attention, whilst engaged in carrying these orders into execution, no opportunity was neglected to remove, as far as I was capable, all such errors as had crept into the science of navigation, and to establish, in their place, such facts as would tend to facilitate the grand object of finding the longitude at sea; which now seems to be brought nearly to a certainty, by pursuing the lunar method, assisted by a good chronometer. On this, as well as some other subjects, it is highly probable, that great prolixity and repetition will be found in the following pages; it will, however, readily appear to the candid perusers of this voyage, that, as the primary design of the undertaking was to obtain useful knowledge, so it became an indispensable duty, on my part, to use my utmost exertions and abilities in doing justice to the original intention, by detailing the information that arose in the execution of it, in a way calculated to instruct, even though it should fail to entertain. And when the writer alleges, that from the age of thirteen, his whole life, to the commencement of this expedition, (fifteen months only excepted) has been devoted to constant employment in His Majesty's naval service, he feels, and with all possible humility, that he has some claims to the indulgence of a generous public; who, under such circumstances, will not expect to find elegance of diction, purity of style, or unexceptionable grammatical accuracy: but will be satisfied with "a plain unvarnished" relation, given with a rigid attention to the truth of such transactions and circumstances as appeared to be worthy of recording by a naval officer, whose greatest pride is to deserve the appellation of being zealous in the service of his king and country.

      AS a considerable delay has necessarily taken place in the publication of this work, in consequence of the decease of the late Captain Vancouver, it becomes of absolute necessity to give an accurate account of the state of the work at the period when his last fatal indisposition rendered him incapable of attending any more to business; left the melancholy event which has retarded its completion should tend to affect its authenticity in the public opinion.

      The two first volumes, excepting the introduction, and as far as page 288 of the third and last volume, were printed; and Captain Vancouver had finished a laborious examination of the impression, and had compared it with the engraved charts and headlands of his discoveries, from the commencement of his survey in the year 1791, to the conclusion of it at the port of Valparaiso, on his return to England in the year 1795. He had also prepared the introduction, and a further part of the journal as far as page 408 of the last volume. The whole, therefore, of the important part of the work, which comprehends his geographical discoveries and improvements, is now presented to the public, exactly as it would have been had Captain Vancouver been still living. The notes which he had made on his journey from the port of Valparaiso to his arrival at St. Jago de Chili, the capital of that kingdom, were unfortunately lost; and I am indebted to Captain Puget for having assisted me with his observations on that occasion.

      Ever since Captain Vancouver's last return to England, his health had been in a very debilitated state, and his constitution was evidently so much impaired by the arduous services in which, from his earliest youth, he had been constantly engaged*, that his friends dared to indulge but little hope that he would continue many years amongst them. Notwithstanding that it pleased the Divine Providence to spare his life until he had been able to revise and complete the account of the geographical part of his late Voyage of Discovery, a cir-

cumstance which must ever be regarded as most fortunate by all the friends of science, and especially by those professional persons who may hereafter be likely to follow him, through the intricate labyrinth which he has so minutely explored; yet it will ever be a consideration of much regret, that he did not survive to perfect the narrative of his labours. He had made many curious observations on the natural history of the several countries he had visited, and on the manners, customs, laws and religion, of the various people with whom he had met, or amongst whom he had occasionally resided; but had been induced to postpone these miscellaneous matters, left the regular diary of the voyage should be interrupted by the introduction of such desultory observations. These he had intended to present in the form of a supplementary or concluding chapter, but was prevented from so doing by the unfortunate event of his illness.

      Most of the papers, which contain these interesting particulars, are too concise and too unconnected for me to attempt any arrangement of them, or to submit them to the reader without hazarding Captain Vancouver's judgment as an observer, or his reputation as a narrator, rigidly devoted to the truth. But as some of the notes, which he made upon the spot, are of too valuable a nature to be intirely lost, I shall venture to subjoin them to the History of the Voyage, as nearly as possible in his own words, without attempting any such arrangement of them, as might tend to diminish their authenticity, or bring into doubt that scrupulous veracity from which Captain Vancouver never departed.

      The whole narrative of the Voyage of Discovery having been brought to its conclusion at Valparaiso, by Captain Vancouver himself, there only remains for me to add, that in preparing for the press the small remainder of his journal, comprehending the passage round Cape Horn to St. Helena, and from thence to England, I have strictly adhered to the rough documents before me; but as no new incidents occurred in this part of the voyage, and as the insertion of log-book minutes, over a space which is now so frequently traversed, cannot either be useful or entertaining, I have endeavoured to compress this portion of the journal into as few pages as possible.

      In performing this painful task, I have had severe and ample cause to lament the melancholy office to which I have been compelled, by the loss of him whose early departure from this life has deprived His Majesty of an active and able officer, truth and science of a steady supporter, society of an uniformly valuable member, and in addition to the feelings of many who live to regret the loss of a sincere friend, I have to deplore that of a most affectionate brother.

CONTENTS

FIRST VOLUME.

THE PLATES

THE PLATES

BOOK THE SECOND.

VISIT THE SANDWICH ISLANDS; PROCEED TO SURVEY THE COAST OF NEW ALBION; PASS THROUGH AN INLAND NAVIGATION; TRANSACTIONS AT NOOTKA; ARRIVE AT PORT ST. FRANCISCO.

CHAPTER I.

Passage to the Sandwich islands—Arrive off Owhyhee—Visit from Tianna and other chiess—Leave Towereroo at Owhyhee—Proceed to leeward—Anchor in Whyteete bay in Waohoo—Arrival at Attowai.

      OUR friends having quitted us soon after noon on tuesday the 24th, we directed our course to the northward, and notwithstanding we had now been nearly ten months absent from England, it was not until the present moment that our voyage could be considered as commenced; having now for the first; time pointed our vessels' heads towards the grand object of the expedition. I cannot help mentioning that I felt, on this occasion, very considerable regret for the little progress we had hitherto made. It was now within a few days of the time I had calculated, agreeably to the arrangements in England, that we should be quitting the Sandwich islands, which were yet at the remote distance of nearly 800 leagues. One satisfactory reflection however was, that we had not been retarded by any mispent time, or inexcusable delays; and that although a month had been devoted to the examination of the south-west part of New Holland, that period was, without doubt, not unprofitably employed. Adverse winds, and the indifferent failing of the vessels had principally operated to prevent our being further advanced.

      A light eastwardly breeze brought us in the afternoon within fight of Titeroa, and at sun set that island bore by compass from N. by W. to N. by E.; Otaheite S.E. to S.; and Morea S.S.W. to S.W. Our progress was so slow that, at noon the next day, we observed in latitude 17° 1′, Morea bearing by compass s.24 W. to S.8 W.; Otaheite S.11 E. to S.41 E. and Titeroa N.85 E. to N.45 E. about three or four miles distant. Some of the inhabitants visited us from this island, and brought a few fowls, fish, and cocoa nuts to barter. The weather falling calm, and the ship drifting sast in with the land, we were employed until sun set in towing her from it. At this time a light breeze springing up from the south the boats were taken on board, and all fail made to the northward; but so tardily did we proceed that, on the 27th in the morning, Otaheite and Morea were still in fight astern. We continued moving at this gentle rate until wednesday the 1st of february, at which time we had reached only the latitude of 13° 54′, longitude 209° 53′. The wind had been variable, though chiefly from the eastern quarter, with tolerably fair weather. From this period our progress was somewhat accelerated. We were daily visited by numerous birds which inhabit the low half drowned islands of this ocean, varying in their kinds as well as numbers, until the 8th, when, in latitude 4° 36′, and longitude 209° 15′, they appeared to have intirely deserted us. During this last week the weather had been clear, though very sultry, with a moderate breeze between the E.N.E. and N.N.E. The dead reckoning had hitherto varied about half a degree only to the westward of the chronometer; but as we now advanced, we found a very strong westwardly current, which affected us so much, that when we reached the equator, which was about noon on the 12th, our longitude by account was 210° 35′, although by the chronometer we were then in 207° 38′ only. This afternoon a few birds were again seen about the ship; the winds and weather continued nearly the same, attended with a heavy northerly swell, which continued to be very unpleasant, and generally from the N. E. After crossing the line, the current seemed to set to the north westward, until in latitude 4° 54′ north,* longitude by the chronometer 204° 4′, by the dead reckoning 209° 22′, which proved, that since we had entered

the northern hemisphere, we had been set, in the course of three days, 81′ to the westward, and 50′ to the north. From this point the current ceased to set to the westward, but continued its northern direction, inclining a little to the east, at the rate of 4 to 5 leagues per day. Several birds, which had been our constant attendants since the 12th, became very scarce after this evening. The trade wind between N.E. and E.N.E. blew a fresh gale. The weather in general was cloudy, with squalls, accompanied with a very heavy sea from the eastward.

      The sky, on the morning of the 16th, being tolerably clear, I was enabled to obtain six sets of distances of ☾ a ⊙, the mean result of which gave the longitude 204° 5′ 53″, the chronometer chewed 204° 6′ 15″; latitude 6° 14′. Very few birds were now to be seen; but in the morning one or two turtles were observed. The wind prevailing to the northward of N.E.; rendered our reaching the Sandwich islands, without being first led a considerable distance beyond them, a very doubtful circumstance. This induced me to take advantage of the current, which still continued to set to the northward; and by standing to the eastward or northward as the wind veered, on the 23d we reached the latitude of 12° 18′, the longitude by the chronometer 203° 16′, and by the dead reckoning 207° 42′. The wind now blew a moderate breeze mostly from the eastward; which permitted us to make a course good, a little to the eastward of north.

      On the 26th, the mean result of six sets of distances ☾ a ⊙ gave the longitude at noon 203° 48′, the chronometer 203° 40′, by the dead reckoning 208° 23′, the latitude 15° 25′.

      The wind, which was light, continued between the east and N.E. attended with a hollow rolling swell from the N.W. On wednesday, in latitude 17° 22′, longitude 203° 30′, after a few hours calm, towards sunset a breeze sprang up from the N.W. We now stood to the N.N.E.; which course, by day-light on thursday the 1st of march, brought us in fight of Owhyhee, bearing by compass from north to N. by E. about 24 leagues distant.

      The order for prohibiting general trade with the Indians was again read to the ship's company. A particular attention to such regulations

with persons circumstanced as we were, was not only of material importance, but was absolutely indispensable.

      As the day advanced, which was delightfully pleasant, the wind gradually veered round to the north-eastward, which enabled us shortly after noon to steer for the south point of Owhyhee, then bearing by compass N.8 W.14 leagues distant. Our latitude was now 18° 9′, longitude per dead reckoning 209° 33′; by the chronometer 204° 19′, which latter is to be received as the true longitude, notwithstanding the difference of 5° 14′; for so much had we been affected by western or lee currents, in performing this very long and tedious passage. About midnight, we passed to the westward of the south point of Owhyhee; and, in the hope of procuring some provisions and refreshments, as we failed past the west coast of this island we kept close in shore.

      In the morning, with a light breeze from the land, at the distance of about 3 miles, we stood along shore to the northward. Several canoes came off with a supply of pigs, and vegetables; amongst the latter were some very excellent water melons: the natives, however, demanded a very exorbitant return for these refreshments, and seemed very indifferent about trading, or having any other communication with us. At noon on saturday, with very pleasant weather and light breezes, generally from off the land, Karakakooa bore north about 5 miles distant; and we had now the satisfaction of finding our chronometer, allowing the Otaheitean rate, to agree within a few seconds of its longitude as settled by Captain Cook. The Portsmouth rate made it 1° 18′ to the eastward. On board the Chatham, Mr. Arnold's chronometer erred 24′ to the westward; according to its rate of going as settled at Otaheite.

      The steep precipice which forms the north side of Karakakooa bay, renders it too remarkable to be easily mistaken, especially as the interior country rises thence more abruptly than from the coast to the north or south of the bay; which, although presenting both wood-land and cultivated country above the barren rocky shores where the habitations of the natives are chiefly situated, is, nevertheless, in a great degree destitute of that diversity of prospect which might have been expected here, and which is also the general character of all this side of the island.

      Several canoes having stood to sea after us in the morning, we now brought to, for the purpose of trading with them; and were soon honored with visit from Tianna, the person mentioned in Mr. Mears's voyage. He was received in a manner agreeable to the distinguished character he had been represented to support, and which, from his grateful inquiries after his patron, he appeared to deserve. This complimentary conversation he seemed desirous of speedily putting an end to, being very anxious to acquaint us, that, since his return from China, he had resided on this island, where many severe conflicts had taken place; in which he had taken part with Tamaah-maaha, against Teamawheere, who, it seemed, had, since the death of Tereeoboo, shared the government with Tamaah-maaha. In one of these battles Tianna having shot Teamawheere, a complete victory was gained, and these two chiefs agreed to divide the island between them. Tamaah-maaha becoming the sovereign over the three northern, and Tianna of the three southern districts.

      Understanding that I purposed going directly to the Leeward islands, Tianna requested he might be permitted to accompany us, and, with his wives and retinue, to sleep on board; with which request I thought proper to comply. From the character given of this chief*, I was not a little surprized to find him totally ignorant of our language, and unable to pronounce a single word articulately; but by our knowledge of his speech we soon understood, that, since the preceding autumn, not any vessel had arrived; that about that time three or four American brigs, and one, in which was Mr. Colnett, belonging to Macao, had visited the islands; and, that it was not possible for any vessels to touch at the other islands, without himself and the people of Owhyhee being informed of their arrival. This intelligence made me despair of meeting the store-ship, and the hope which I had so long indulged, as a compensation for the tardy progress which circumstances had hitherto compelled us to make, now seemed intirely to vanish.

      Tianna viewed every transaction on board with attentive admiration, whilst our numbers seemed to create in his mind a degree of surprize he was unable to subdue. In the course of the evening he held frequent conversations with Towereroo, and during the night he was several times

on deck. endeavouring to ascertain the number of men on duty in the different parts of the ship.

      The retinue of Tianna on this occasion was to consist of a considerable number; part were to attend him on board the Discovery, and the remainder was to proceed in the Chatham. His residence was a little to the north of Karakakooa; and as it was proposed his suite should be taken on board the next afternoon, we kept off that station. A messenger, apparently of some consequence, was dispatched to the shore with directions for this purpose the preceding evening: in the forenoon, however, several consultations took place with those about him, which finally ended in his declining to accompany us to Attowai. The conversation he had held with Towereroo had induced him to believe, that the services of this lad might be of great importance to him; and as he promised Towereroo a very handsome establishment, of house, land, and other advantages, I thought it adviseable to fix him with Tianna for the present, that, on my return in the winter, I might be enabled to form some judgment of his treatment. Morotoi, the native island of Towereroo, was in a state of great confusion, in consequence of its being the general rendezvous of Titeere and Taio, the sovereigns of Woahoo and Attowai, who were then meditating a war against this island. This was an additional reason for consenting to the arrangement. Towereroo, though exceedingly anxious to accept Tianna's offer, seemed to entertain great doubts as to the future safety of himself and his property; to the last moment he had his choice of remaining on board, or departing with Tianna; and, notwithstanding he did not hesitate to prefer the latter, yet he earnestly requested the few clothes he had left, and the articles I had given him, since our leaving Otaheite, might be taken care of on board, until our return; and he would take with him a very small assortment of the different articles of traffic only, to supply his present necessities.

      As Tianna had several goats, I did not present him with any of these animals, but made him very happy by giving him some vine and orange plants, some almonds, and an assortment of garden seeds, to all of which he promised the most particular care and attention. After re-

ceiving some acceptable valuables in return for ten small hogs, he took his leave of us with Towereroo about five in the afternoon; and though he affected to be pretty well satisfied with his reception, and flattered with being saluted with four guns on his departure, yet it was very evident he was extremely disappointed and chagrined in not having been able to procure any fire arms or ammunition; which were anxiously solicited, not only by himself but by all his countrymen, and by us as uniformly refused.

      To the care of Towereroo I intrusted a letter, addressed to the officer commanding the vessel charged with stores and provisions for our service, acquainting him with our departure from Owhyhee, and of my intention to call at the Leeward islands to recruit our water, after which, we should proceed immediately to the coast of America: and I directed him to follow us thither without loss of time, agreeably to the arrangements I had previously made with the Secretary of State's office.

      As we stood along shore with a light breeze, we were in the evening greatly surprized on being hailed, from a large canoe which was meeting us, in broken English; demanding, who we were, and to what country we belonged, and very civilly requesting to be admitted on board. This being granted, the speaker proved to be a young man named Tarehooa, a native of Attowai, who had accompanied a Mr. John Ingram commanding an American ship laden with furs, from North West America, bound to Boston in New England by the way of China. Tarehooa had been with Mr. Ingram in North America about seven months, and had returned in a brig with him some months before.

      His present master, he informed me, was a chief named Kahowmotoo, of great importance, and nearly equal in consequence with Tianna; and who like him had been very instrumental in gaining for Tamaah-maaha the sovereignty of the whole island. We were instantly made known to this chief, who presented me with a letter written in Spanish, dated "Sloop Princess Royal, march 28, 1791." (probably the same vessel that was captured at Nootka) attended by an English translation of the same date, and both signed "Emanuel Kimper;" recommending in the strongest terms Tamaah-maaha, Tianna, and this chief Kahowmotoo, for

their having, on all occasions, shewn Mr. Kimper and his people every mark of friendly attention and hospitality. Kahowmotoo presented me with three fine hogs, for which in return he received ample compensation; but, like Tianna, was much mortified that it had not been made in arms or ammunition. He requested to sleep on board, and that his canoe might be taken in tow, in both of which he was indulged. Much conversation took place in the evening. He confirmed the account given by Tianna of the non-arrival of any vessels for some months past, and the wars which had taken place; but it was excessively difficult to reconcile the story he told of Tianna, with that which Tianna had related of himself. Tianna's atchievements he readily admitted, and candidly allowed him great merit for his military exploits; but denied his having equal power with Tamaah-maaha; saying, there was but one aree de hoi over all Owhyhee, and he was Tamaah-maaha; and that if Tianna was an aree de hoi, so also must he be, and other chiefs of equal consequence with Tianna and himself.

      This instance will serve to illustrate how very difficult it is, according to our comprehension of their language, to obtain matter of fact from these people; and that nothing short of indefatigable labour can obtain the truth, and correct information, from man in so early a state of civilization.

      The next morning we were abreast of the south point of Toca-yahha bay, near which is Kahowmotoo's residence. It was a great pleasure to observe the avidity, with which all the chiefs who had visited the ship fought after the vegetable productions we had brought; which, if attended to, will in future add to their present abundant production. Kahowmotoo was very anxious to obtain every acquisition of this fort, and was made very happy by receiving some fine orange plants, and a packet of different garden feeds; and likewise a goat and kid. With these valuables he appeared to be highly delighted, and promised to give them his greatest care and attention.

      Tareehooa, who preferred the name of Jack, had been with Mr. Ingram in the capacity of a servant; but was now promoted to the office of interpreter in the service of this chief, which he by no means

badly executed. Jack was extremely solicitous to remain on board, and to accompany us on our voyage. As he appeared to be a very shrewd active fellow, and there was a probability of his being made useful, I accepted of his services, to which the chief consented, though with a mixture of regret, and a friendly regard for Jack's future advantage and success. After being saluted with four guns, a compliment which Tianna had received, and taking a very affectionate leave of his interpreter, Kahowmotoo departed with the most friendly assurance, that whenever we should think proper to visit his district, we should be abundantly supplied with refreshments.

      A light breeze, chiefly from the south, advanced us slowly towards the north point of Owhyhee, until the trade wind at E.N.E. no longer intercepted by the high mountains which compose the island, met us; when we directed our course towards Woahoo. Early in the morning of the 6th, being well in with the island of Tahoorowa, the Chatham's signal was made to denote our situation in bearing up along the south side of that island; but as neither this nor some previous signals had been acknowledged, I concluded the Chatham had remained becalmed under the high land of Owhyhee; whilst we had benefited by a very fine gale, owing to our being a little further advanced; and Woahoo being our next appointed rendezvous, a long separation could not be apprehended. The trade wind blew strong from the N. E. until we were under the lee of Ranai, when light and variable winds succeeded. At noon Tahoorowa by compass bore S.88 E.; the S.W. part of Mowee N. 79 E.; the east point of Ranai N. 60 E.; south point N.20 E.; north west point N. 18 W.; and the western part of Morotoi indistinctly seen, bore N.N.W. In this situation the latitude was observed to be 20° 41′, longitude by the chronometer 203° 2′. The south point of Ranai being the nearest land, was about four miles distant, and was placed by our observations 1′ south, and 5 ½ to the west of the situation assigned to it by Captain King. In the afternoon some sew of the natives visited us from Ranai, merely, I believe to satisfy their curiosity, as they brought with them scarcely any thing for barter. Indeed, the dreary and desolate appearance of their island, seemed a sufficient apology for their coming empty handed. The

apparent sterility of the island, and the few scattered miserable habitations which we were able with our glasses to discern, indicated the part of it now presented to our view to be very thinly inhabited and incapable of affording any of its productions to strangers. During the afternoon we proceeded to the north along the west side of Ranai; and, towards sun-set again met the trade wind, which about midnight brought us in sight of Woahoo, bearing by compass west 6 or 7 miles distant. We plied until day light, when we directed our course along the south side of that island whose eastern shores bear a similar desolate appearance to those of Ranai, and are principally composed of barren rocks and high precipices, which fall perpendicularly into the sea. We did not pass at a greater distance than a league, yet verdure or cultivation was not any where to be seen. From its east point the north east side of Woahoo takes a direction N. 33 W. off which are scattered some small detached islets and rocks; the northernmost: of these which we saw, is a low flat rock, lying from the east point N.22 W. 3 or 4 leagues distant; and near the shore was a hill whose summit bears the appearance of a volcanic crater. The land to the north of the east point seemed much indented, but whether capable of affording any shelter or not, we were too far off to discern. On the south east part of this island are two remarkable promontories, which lie from each other S.81 W, and N.81 E. about 7 miles asunder; the first or easternmost of these is formed of barren rocky cliffs, rising so suddenly from the sea, that to all appearance vessels might brush their sides in passing them; whence the land falls a little back, and forms a shallow bay in a northern direction, where the different colours in the water indicated a rocky bottom; on the beach the surf broke very violently, behind which a lagoon extended some distance to the northward. Should the bottom be found good, vessels might ride in this bay tolerably well protected against the general trade wind; but as our place of rendezvous was round the second promontory, we did not examine it in a more particular manner. Continuing our course, about nine we hauled round the reef which lies about a quarter of a mile from that point, and had soundings from 22 to 10 fathoms; in which latter depth of water we anchored about ten o'clock, the bottom sand and pieces of

      small coral. This promontory, which is the south point of the island, has also on its top the appearance of a crater, formed by volcanic eruptions; this bore by compass N. 82 E.; the outward part of the reef S. 81 E.; the westernmost part of the land in fight N. 82 W.; a break in the reef, which extends at irregular distances along the shore, N. 20 W.; a low sandy point, near the west end of a large Indian village N. 7 W.; and the middle of the village, (where, the natives informed us, we might land in perfect safety with our boats,) N.N.E. about 2 miles distant. We examined a considerable space around the ship, and found in shore the same description of bottom, though the coral which principally composed it was of so soft a nature, as to cause little apprehension for the safety of our cables. The depth of water within us gradually decreased to 6 fathoms, and without, to the distance of nearly a mile, as gradually increased to 25 and 30 fathoms, where the bottom was found to be a fine grey sand.

      As our quarter deck required caulking, the carpenters were immediately employed on this business. Some few of the natives visited us from the shore, who brought in their canoes a very sparing supply of refreshments, amongst which, the musk and water melons made no inconsiderable part, and were very excellent of their kinds. The situation occupied by us in this bay, which the natives call Whyteete, seemed nearly as eligible as most of the anchoring places these islands are generally found to afford. The inhabitants were excessively orderly and docile, although there was not a chief or any person of distinction amongst them to enforce their good behaviour; neither man nor woman attempted to come on board, without first obtaining permission; and when this was refused, they remained perfectly quiet in their canoes alongside.

      The information obtained at Owhyhee, that Titeere and Taio, with most of the principal chiefs and warriors of this island, and those to leeward, were on a hostile expedition at Morotoi and Mowee, was here confirmed; but differed as to the immediate cause of their absence, which was now represented to be for the purpose of repelling an invasion likely to take place from Owhyhee, by Tamaah-maaha, Kahowmotoo, and Tianna. This, in a great measure, seemed to account for the small

number of inhabitants who visited us, the wretched condition of their canoes, and the scanty supply of their country's produce which they brought to market. On the shores, the villages appeared numerous, large, and in good repair; and the surrounding country pleasingly interspersed with deep, though not extensive valleys; which, with the plains near the sea-side, presented a high degree of cultivation and fertility. The apparent docility of these people, who have been represented by former visitors as the most daring and unmanageable of any who belong to the Sandwich islands, might, probably, be attributed in a great measure to the absence of their fighting men, and to our manifest superiority in numbers, regularity in point of order, and military government; which seemed to make a wonderful impression on all who were permitted to come on board, and who, to a man, appeared very much afraid of fire-arms. This was evinced, on our mounting guard to post the centinels round the ship. On this occasion they all hastily paddled towards the shore, and it was not without much persuasion that they were induced to return.

      It appeared very singular, that the war of which we had heard so much, was not yet begun; and Kahowmotoo, who had frequently mentioned the subject, said they were not to begin the combat until after the expiration of fifteen months. If this information be correct, designs so long premeditated, or preparations delayed so long from being carried into execution, were hard to account for. Taio and Titeere had now been several months from their respective governments.

      Our new ship-mate Jack became very useful; he took upon him to represent us in the most formidable point of view to all his countrymen; magnifying our powers, and augmenting our numbers, and proclaiming that we were not traders, such as they had been accustomed to fee; but that we were belonging to King George, and were all mighty warriors. This being his constant discourse, it is not to be wondered that his countrymen became much intimidated; and as this could be productive of no ill consequences, we permitted Jack to proceed in his encomiums, and unanimously agreed it would not be his fault, if we were not in high repute amongst the islanders.

      After caulking the decks I purposed to execute such trivial repairs, at this place, as might be found necessary to the rigging, &c. &c. provided that water, for which I was alone solicitous, could he procured; as the abundant and excellent refreshments we had obtained at Otaheite, and the high state of health which we had enjoyed since our leaving Dusky bay, rendered supplies of any other nature a secondary consideration.

      For this purpose, attended by two armed boats, and a guard of seven marines, I landed accompanied by Mr. Mudge, Mr. Whidbey, and Mr. Menzies. Our boats remained perfectly quiet on the beach, having passed to the shore between some rocks, which completely protected it from the surf. The natives, who were present, received us in a very orderly manner. Two bustling men with large sticks, kept the few spectators at a respectful distance: to these I made some presents; and. on inquiring for water, they directed us to some stagnant brackish ponds near the beach. This being rejected we were given to understand that good water was to be had in abundance at some distance, to which they readily undertook to conduct us; and as they all appeared friendly and pacific, the boats were left in charge of Mr. Swaine and Mr. Manby; and we proceeded, with our guard, in search of the promised supply. Our guides led us to the northward through the village, to an exceedingly well-made causeway, about twelve feet broad, with a ditch on each side.

      This opened to our view a spacious plain, which, in the immediate vicinity of the village, had the appearance of the open common fields in England; but, on advancing, the major part appeared divided into fields of irregular shape and figure, which were separated from each other by low stone walls, and were in a very high state of cultivation. These several portions of land were planted with the eddo or taro root, in different stages of inundation; none being perfectly dry, and some from three to six or seven inches under water. The causeway led us near a mile from the beach, at the end of which was the water we were in quest of. It was a rivulet five or six feet wide, and about two or three feet deep, well banked up, and nearly motion-

less some small rills only finding a passage through the dams that checked the sluggish stream, by which a constant supply was afforded to the taro plantations. The water was excellent, but the road was too rough and hard for rolling our casks such a distance, without exposing them to great damage. This induced me to make our guides understand, that, if the inhabitants would collect, and carry this water on board in gourds, they should be well rewarded for their trouble. The offer was instantly communicated to their neighbours about us, who immediately replied, we should have an ample supply the next day. At the termination of the causeway, the paths of communication with the different fields or plantations were on these narrow stone walls; very rugged, and where one person only could pass at a time. The gentleness and civility of the natives tempted us to extend our walk through the plantations, which we found very pleasant. A fine refreshing breeze prevailed, and the Indians kept at a sufficient distance to prevent their company being incommodious. In this excursion we found the land in a high state of cultivation, mostly under immediate crops of taro; and abounding with a variety of wild fowl, chiefly of the duck kind, some of which our sportsmen shot, and they were very fine eating. The sides of the hills, which were at some distance, seemed rocky and barren; the intermediate vallies, which were all inhabited, produced some large trees, and made a pleasing appearance. The plains, however, if we may judge from the labour bestowed on their cultivation, seem to afford the principal proportion of the different vegetable productions on which the inhabitants depend for their subsistence. The soil, though tolerably rich, and producing rather a luxuriant abundance, differs very materially from that of Matavai, or the other parts of Otaheite. At Woahoo, nature seems only to have acted a common part in her dispensations of vegetable food for the service of man; and to have almost confined them to the taro plant, the raising of which is attended with much care, ingenuity, and manual labour. In the several parts of its culture, the inhabitants, whether planting, weeding, or gathering, must, during the whole of these operations, be up to their middle in mud, and exposed to the rays of a vertical sun: whereas, on the plains of Otaheite, the

surface teems, as it were, spontaneously with the most abundant produce of esculent vegetables, without the help of industry to sow, plant, or rear them, or the assistance of the aqueducts which these people construct with great labour and ingenuity to insure them a crop. There, the continued groves of the lofty and umbrageous bread fruit, apple, palm, and other trees, afford a delightful cool retreat to those favored islanders; here, the inhabitants know not the luxury of such retirement. Nor did it appear in the vegetable kingdom alone that nature here had been more favorable; the human species, though without doubt originally of the same nation, differ excessively; and it would seem that the comparative benevolence of the Otaheiteans and these people was about equal to the natural fertility of the soil on which they respectively lived. It may however appear rather uncharitable to form any decided opinion on so short an acquaintance; yet first impressions will ever have their influence on visiting different countries under circumstances similar, or nearly so. On such occasions it is scarcely possible to avoid comparisons, in which one must necessarily suffer. On our landing at Otaheite, the effusions of friendship and hospitality were evident in the countenances of every one we met. Each endeavoured to anticipate our wants or our wishes by the most fascinating attention, and by sedulously striving to be first in performing any little service we required; inviting us to take refreshments at every house we approached, and manifesting a degree of kindness that would justly be extolled amongst the most; polished nations. At Woahoo we were regarded with an unwelcome austerity, and our wants treated by the generality with a negligent indifference. In the course of our walk they exhibited no assiduity to please, nor did they appear apprehensive left offence should be given; no refreshments were offered, nor had we invitation to any of their houses. Their general behaviour was distantly civil, apparently directed by a desire to establish a peaceable intercourse with strangers, from whom there was a prospect of deriving many valuable acquisitions, which would be unattainable by any other mode of conduct; as they must have been convinced immediately on our landing, that we were too powerful to be

conquered, and too much upon our guard to suffer the least indignity by surprize. I must, however, do justice to the hospitality of our two guides, who on our reaching the shore took upon them the office of constables; and who had also each caused a hog and a quantity of vegetables to be prepared for our entertainment. On our return this repast was ready, and we were much intreated by them to partake of it; but as it was now past sun set, we were under the necessity of declining their civility; on which they very obligingly put our intended supper into the boats. I presented each of our guides with an acceptable acknowledgment, and earnestly renewing my request of a supply from the brook, which they promised should be complied with the next day, we returned on board.

      Towards midnight the Chatham arrived, and anchored a little to the westward of the Discovery. I soon learned from Mr. Broughton that as I had suspected, his vessel had been becalmed the evening we parted until near one the next morning, when they stood towards Mowee; but on his not being able to see the Discovery at day light, he steered to the north west along the southern side of that island, and found an eligible anchoring place off its western part, with soundings regular and good; and as the natives brought off a considerable quantity of water, he had great reason to believe that article could there be readily procured.

      The few natives in our immediate neighbourhood, though they conducted themselves in a very civil and submissive manner, yet brought us so little water in the course of the next day, that I was induced to give up the idea of obtaining a supply by their means, and to proceed immediately to Attowai; where I was assured we should have that necessary article completely within our own reach and power. After employing the forenoon in setting up our rigging, and in other useful occupations, we weighed anchor, and steered to the westward.

      Anxious to communicate the intelligence of our progress to the officer commanding the storeship, (this being one of the appointed rendezvous,) I entrusted a letter to one of the natives, a very active sensible fellow, who promised to take great care of it, and to deliver it on the

vessel's arrival in this bay; and for the faithful discharge of this trust, he was assured of receiving a very handsome present, to which I promised him an addition on my return.

      Whyteete bay is formed, by the land falling a little back round the south point of Woahoo; and although open above half the compass in the southern quarters, it is unquestionably the most eligible anchoring place in the island. We found the latitude of the ship's station by four good meridional altitudes, to be 21° 16′ 47″; its longitude by the chronometer 202° 9′ 37″; and the variation of the compass to be 7° 50′ eastwardly. Mr. Arnold's chronometer on board the Chatham gave the longitude 201° 45′ 30′, allowing the rate as settled at Otaheite; our chronometer by the Portsmouth rate, shewed the longitude to be 203° 29′ 50′; but 202°9′ 37′ is to be received as its true longitude.

      A fine breeze between five and six brought us round the south west part of Woahoo, which lies from the south point N.82 W.5 leagues distant. This point is low flat land, with a reef round it, extending about a quarter of a mile from the shore. The reef and low land continue some distance to the eastward towards Whyteete bay, and form, between the south and south-west points, a large open shallow bay, with high land rising very irregularly at some distance from the beach; which, towards the south-west point, appeared to be broken in two places, and to form lagoons that seemed capable of receiving boats and small craft. One of the natives, who was accompanying us to Attowai, informed me, that all along the shore off these openings the bottom was rocky, and would cut our cables. This, with some other circumstances, induced me to believe, that there was not any where in this spacious bay such good anchorage as our last station.

      At eight in the evening, the west point of Woahoo bore N.½ E.3 leagues distant. The Chatham being under the land becalmed, we soon lost fight of her. We continued our course under all sail, and to our great surprise came within fight of Attowai, by half past four the next morning. The east end, by compass, bore N. by W. at a trifling distance, having gained almost 6 leagues in the night's run from land to land, more than the

      log ascertained; which I concluded must have been effected by a very strong north-west current.

      At day-break, we bore away along the south side of Attowai for Whymea bay, where about nine o'clock we anchored, and moored a cable each way; the depth of water was 24 fathoms, with a bottom of dark-grey sand and mud. The east point of the bay bearing, by compass, S.67 E. the west point N.70 W.; and the river N.31 E; about 2 miles distant.

CHAPTER II.

Transactions at Attowai—The prince and regent visit the ships—Fidelity of the natives—Observations on the change in the several governments of the Sandwich islands— Commercial pursuits of the Americans.

      BY the time we had anchored, several of the natives visited us in the same submissive and orderly manner as at Woahoo, and appeared better provided. Towards noon, the Chatham arrived; but the wind shifting about prevented her coming to anchor until sun-set, when she moored a little to the westward of the station we had taken.

      Our boats, guard, &c. being in readiness, about one o'clock we proceeded to the shore. Mr. Menzies accompanied me in the yawl, and Mr. Puget followed with the cutter and launch. The surf was not so high as to prevent our landing with ease and safety; and we were received by the few natives present, with nearly the same fort of distant civility which we experienced at Woahoo.

      A man, named Rehooa, immediately undertook to preserve good order, and understanding we purposed to remain some days, caused two excellent houses to be tabooed for our service; one for the officers, the other for the working people, and for the guard, consisting of a serjeant and six marines. Stakes were driven into the ground from the river to the houses, and thence across the beach, giving us an allotment of as much space as we could possibly have occasion for; within which few encroachments were attempted. This business was executed by two men, whose authority the people present seemed to acknowledge and respect, although they did not appear to us to be chiefs of any particular

consequence. I made them some very acceptable presents; and a trade for provisions and fuel was soon established. Certain of the natives, who had permission to come within our lines, were employed in filling and rolling our water-casks to and from the boats; for which service they seemed highly gratified by the reward of a few beads or small nails.

      Having no reason to be apprehensive of any interruption to the harmony and good understanding that seemed to exist, and the afternoon being invitingly pleasant; with Mr. Menzies, our new ship-mate Jack, and Rehooa, I proceeded along the river-side, and found the low country which stretches from the foot of the mountains towards the sea, occupied principally with the taro plant, cultivated much in the same manner as at Woahoo; interspersed with a few sugar canes of luxuriant growth, and some sweet potatoes. The latter are planted on dry ground, the former on the borders and partitions of the taro grounds, which here, as well as at Woahoo, would be infinitely more commodious were they a little broader, being at present scarcely of sufficient width to walk upon. This inconvenience may possibly arise from a principle of œconomy, and the scarcity of naturally good land. The sides of the hills extending from these plantations to the commencement of the forest, a space comprehending at least one half of the island, appeared to produce nothing but a coarse spiry grass from an argillaceous soil, which had the appearance of having undergone the action of fire, and much resembled that called the red dirt in Jamaica, and there considered little better than a caput mortuum. Most of the cultivated lands being considerably above the level of the river, made it very difficult to account for their being so uniformly well watered. The sides of the hills afforded no running streams: and admitting there had been a collection of water on their tops, they were all so extremely perforated, that there was little chance of water finding any passage to the taro plantations. These perforations, which were numerous, were visible at the termination of the mountains, in perpendicular cliffs abruptly descending to the cultivated land; and had the appearance of being the effect of volcanic eruptions, though I should suppose of very ancient date. As we proceeded, our attention was arrested by an object that greatly excited our

admiration, and at once put an end to all conjecture on the means to which the natives resorted for the watering of their plantations. A lofty perpendicular cliff now presented itself, which, by rising immediately from the river, would have effectually stopped our further progress into the country, had it not been for an exceedingly well constructed wall of stones and clay about twenty-four feet high, raised from the bottom by the side of the cliff, which not only served as a pass into the country, but also as an aqueduct, to convey the water brought thither by great labour from a considerable distance; the place where the river descends from the mountains affording the planters an abundant stream, for the purpose to which it is so advantageously applied. This wall, which did no less credit to the mind of the projector than to the skill of the builder, terminated the extent of our walk; from whence we returned through the plantations, whose highly-improved state impressed us with a very favorable opinion of the industry and ingenuity of the inhabitants.

      On our arrival at the beach, I had the comfort of finding all things in perfectly good order. As the trading and working party were extremely well lodged, it was reasonable to believe that our business would not only be much facilitated, but that a more plentiful supply of refreshments would, probably, be procured, by allowing them to remain on shore. This induced me to leave Mr. Puget in charge of the party, and I returned on board perfectly satisfied with the safety of their situation.

      Like our treatment at Woahoo, our reception here was not of that hearty, friendly nature, I had been accustomed to experience from our southern friends. The eagerness, nay even avidity, with which the men here assisted in the prostitution of the women; and the readiness of the whole sex, without any exception, to surrender their persons without the Ieast importunity, could not sail, at the moment, to incur our censure and dislike; and, on reflection, our disgust and aversion. I have read much, and seen something in my several visits to this ocean, of the obscenity attributed to the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society islands; but no indecency that ever came under my observation, could be compared with the excessive wantonness presented in this excursion. Had this levity, now so offensively conspicuous, been exhibited in my former

visits to these: islands, its impressions could not have been effaced, and it must have been recollected at this time with all the abhorrence which it would at first have naturally created; but as no remembrance of such behaviour occurred, I was induced to consider this licentiousness as a perfectly new acquirement, taught, perhaps, by the different civilized voluptuaries, who, for some years past, have been their constant visitors.

      At Woahoo, and also on our arrival here, we were given to understand that there were Englishmen resident on this island.

      One of them, a young man about seventeen years of age, whose name was Rowbottom, came on board in a large double canoe; who said he was of Derbyshire, that he had failed from England about five years since in an Indiaman to China, which ship he had quitted in order to engage with some of the vessels in the fur trade between North-West America and China; and that he had, ever since, been thus employed in the American service. He informed me, that himself, John Williams a Welchman, and James Coleman an Irishman, had been left at Onchow, in order that they might return to this island for the purpose of collecting sandal-wood, and pearls, for their master John Kendrick, an American, commanding the brig Lady Washington, in whose service they still remained at the wages of eight dollars per month. The Lady Washington had quitted these islands the preceding October, bound to New England, with a cargo of furs to dispose of in her way thither at China; she was immediately to return from Boston, and having spent the next winter in North-West America, was, in the autumn of the ensuing year, to call for these men at Attowai, and take in a cargo of sandal-wood for the Indian market, with such pearls as they might have collected.

      With Rowbottom came two chiefs, the one named No-ma-tee-he-tee, the other Too; both of whom he said would be useful at Attowai and Onchow. On making these chiefs each a present, with which they were greatly pleased, they said they were directed by the king, or rather the prince Ta-moo-eree, (who is a boy, and the eldest son of Taio the sovereign of this and the neighbouring islands) to say, that Enemoh, the regent in Taio's absence, and Tamooeree, would be with us in a day or two; giving me to understand that Enemoh was the principal acting

officer. A messenger was immediately dispatched to request of his highness, that, as my stay would be very short, he would do me the favor to lose no time in giving us the honor of his company; and, as a pledge of our friendly disposition, I sent him a large axe as a present.

      Our young countryman said it was highly important to have the strictest watch over the behaviour of these people; for although he conceived our force was too great for them to attempt any thing hostile with the least prospect of success, yet he could not determine how far their ambitious views might lead them, as, since their success in taking a schooner at Owhyhee, they had become so elated, that they had attempted to take a brig at Mowee.

      The schooner belonged to a Mr. Medcalf, an American trader, who having been successful in the fur trade, equipped and entrusted her to the command of his son, who failed with eight men from Macoa, in order to prosecute that branch of commerce. This vessel was captured at Owhyhee; but as Rowbottom's narrative of the facts was afterwards found erroneous, the particulars of the enterprize, from better authority, will be given in a future chapter.

      Nomateehetee and Too, with other natives present, confirmed the intelligence of this atrocious act, and, at the same time, highly reprobated the inhuman murder of the crew, who were all put to death excepting one man. Tianna was accused by them of having projected this wicked scheme, and of having perpetrated the horrible massacre; but they positively denied that Taio, who had been suspected of meditating the capture of the brig at Mowee, had any knowledge of that business; saying, that it was intirely the act of the people of Mowee. On becoming acquainted with these daring and ambitious designs, I inquired, what reception Tianna would have experienced had he accompanied us from Owhyhee? Every one present seemed to be astonished at his entertaining such an idea, and agreed that he would have been put to death the instant he had landed, as they all considered him as their most inveterate enemy. These reports, and the observations that were made by the natives in consequence of their being related to me, gave me great reason to apprehend that Tianna's intentions of accompanying us hither, which on

reflection he had thought proper to decline, were not dictated by motives of the most friendly and disinterested nature.

      These unwelcome tidings being concluded, Mr. Broughton attended me on shore with the two chiefs and the young Englishman, who was extremely serviceable to us as an interpreter; and pointed out to the natives our friendly intentions towards them, and the manner in which they should conduct themselves, not only to insure our good opinion, but to obtain the advantages that would eventually result to themselves from our visit. On landing, I understood from Mr. Puget that every thing was, and had been, conducted with the greatest propriety and good order by all parties. Trade for provisions, wood, &c. was going on very briskly, and our supply of water was equal to our wishes.

      Matters thus pleasantly circumstanced, we embarked with Mr. Menzies and Mr. Whidbey, who had accompanied us en shore, in a double canoe to examine the river, which, at the distance of about half a league from the entrance, divides into two branches, one stretching towards the E.N.K.; the other, seemingly the furthest navigable, took a northerly direction, in which however we were not able to advance more than five hundred yards beyond the wall we had visited the preceding evening. Here we landed, and considered ourselves about three miles from the seaside, to which we now returned by a path somewhat nearer the foot of the mountains than before, through a similar country; and were on this occasion more pestered and disgusted, if possible, with the obscene importunities of the women, than on our former excursion.

      Nomateehetee returned with us to dinner; Too remained with Rehooa to assist our party on shore. The next morning Nomateehetee produced a list of certificates from four different commanders of trading vessels who had lately visited these islands. The first, dated in april 1791, signed by J. Colnett of the Argonaut, recommended this chief to the notice of future visitors; but the others signed by J. Ingram of the Hope, Thomas Barnet of the Gustavus, and John Kendrick of the Lady Washington, the two former without dates, the latter dated 27 october, 1791, all direct that the greatest circumspection should be observed in the intercourse of strangers with these islanders, notwithstanding the good

opinion entertained of their fidelity, or the recommendation given, by Mr. Colnett. I told Nomateehetee the paper spoke much in his praise and favor, and desired that he would not omit shewing it to the commander of the next and every other vessel that might arrive at Attowai, which he promised to do, and requested it might remain on board until our departure.

      The caulkers having finished the quarter deck of the Discovery, they were sent on board the Chatham to execute a similar service.

      Another of the party left by the Lady Washington now made his appearance, which did not speak much in his favor. This man's name was Coleman, and Rowbottom had said he was of Ireland, which the man himself positively denied, and declared he was an American, born at New York. He had in most respects adopted the customs of the natives, particularly in dress, or rather in nakedness; for, excepting the maro, which he wore with much less decency than the generality of the inhabitants, he was perfectly naked, and the colour of his skin was little whiter than the fairest of these people. I asked him what he had done with his former clothes; to which he answered with a sneer, that "they were hanging up in a house for the admiration of the natives"; and seemed greatly to exult in having degenerated into a savage way of life. He acquainted me, that he was charged with a message from the prince, to ask what stay I intended to make, and to inquire if we were friendly and peaceably disposed. I desired he would inform the prince, that we should depart the instant a supply of water was obtained; that I was very desirous of having an interview both with him and Enemoh, but that I could not be detained for this purpose; and that, as a further pledge of the favorable disposition we bore towards him and his people, I desired he would present to the prince a piece of scarlet cloth in my name. With this embassy he immediately set off, after assuring me that the prince and regent, with many other chiefs, would pay us their respects by noon the next day.

      The afternoon being delightfully pleasant, I made a small excursion to the westward along the beach; and on returning, observed the hills to the eastward of the river to be on fire from a considerable height, in

particular directions, down towards the water's edge. I was by no means pleased with this appearance, well knowing that fires are generally resorted to by these and other rude nations as the signal for collecting the distant inhabitants, when an enterprize or scheme is meditated to be carried into effect.

      I desired Rowbottom to attend to the conversation of the Indians who were near; but he collected nothing from them in our walk that could give rife to suspicion. On joining the shore party, I asked Nomateehetee and some other chiefs, what was the cause of this extensive conflagration. Some replied, it was to announce the arrival of the prince, the regent, and other great chiefs in this neighbourhood on the morrow; whilst others contended it was for no other purpose than that of burning the weeds. This disagreement in opinion concerning the cause of so unusual an appearance, was far from being satisfactory. The surf ran very high, and other circumstances concurred to render the embarkation of our working party very inconvenient; in addition to which, I did not think it prudent to manifest our apprehensions by a sudden and hasty retreat. The party on shore amounting to twenty armed persons was tolerably strong. Mr. Puget had directions to be vigilantly on his guard; and he was informed that the two launches, armed and provided with false fires to make signals in case of alarm, would be stationed as close to the beach as the surf would permit during the night, in case he should need further assistance. Having taken these precautions I returned on board, with the hope, that in the event of any tumult little danger was to be apprehended. During the night, the chiefs who had taken up their lodgings near our party, frequently visited the beach near where our boats rode; and seemed inquisitive as to the cause of the precautions which they beheld. The night however passed without the least interruption; and in the morning the natives were again trading in their usually civil and friendly manner.

      Our supply of water was completed the next day; and the few hogs and vegetables we were able to purchase were received from the shore. As the market no longer afforded provisions, and as our business was now finished, directions were given for the embarkation of the party in the

afternoon, it being my intention the next day to sail for Onchow. The surf having prodigiously increased, Mr. Puget, on these orders being delivered to him, represented to me, that he was fearful our people would not be able to reach the boats with their arms without exposing themselves to some danger. Conceiving that with the assistance of a canoe, which hitherto had been the general mode of conveyance between our boats and the shore, there would be little hazard, I desired he would use his utmost endeavours to get off; as the re-appearance of the fires on the hills, and the non-appearance of either prince or regent, indicated a possibility that the natives might have thought proper to discontinue their former services and good behaviour.

      In the evening our boats returned; they had been some time detained by the absence of a man belonging to the Chatham who had strayed from the party, and whom at length they had been obliged to leave behind. To effect the embarkation, Mr. Puget had procured a large double canoe, which unfortunately was stove and swamped the first trip; but by the exertions of those in the boats every person had happily been saved, though amongst them were some who could not swim. By this accident two muskets, three axes, a cross cut saw, and a set of accoutrements went to the bottom, but they had recovered one of the muskets. Several articles belonging to the officers who had been on shore on duty could not be taken without imminent danger of being lost, as those on shore after the loss of the canoe had to swim to the boats through the surf. Amongst these were some arms, and a valuable double barrelled fowling piece, which were left in the charge of Nomateehetee, who tabooed them; and, with John Williams, (the Welehman left by the Lady Washington,) gave every assurance of their security; to insure which, they both proposed to sleep in the house where the valuables were deposited. Mr. Puget seemed to entertain great confidence of the safety of the articles and of their being all forthcoming; but I must own, I expected that this necessity would put their fidelity severely to the test, and might eventually be the means of preventing our interview with the prince and regent; especially as Williams had returned with an apology for their having broken their engagement, which he said had

been occasioned by excessive fatigue; but that we might rely on seeing them the next morning. This unpleasant state of suspense occasioned me some anxiety; but at day-break I was agreeably relieved by receiving a message that the prince and regent were arrived at Whymea.

      Mr. Puget was dispatched to the shore for the purpose of obtaining the things which had been left behind, and with directions to use every possible means to impress the prince and regent with our friendly disposition, and to prevail on them to visit the ships. In these respects he had the good fortune to succeed, and communicated to me the following particulars of his reception.

      On landing, he was received with great marks of friendship and cordiality by Enemoh, who is an elderly chief; guardian to the children of Taio, king of the island, and regent during his absence. At some distance the young prince was seated in a man's lap, to whom Mr. Puget hastened to pay his respects, and had the satisfaction of seeing him well pleased with the presents he made him on this occasion. Having settled the business of their visiting the ships, to which Enemoh had consented, he was extremely anxious to become acquainted with the fate of the several articles which he had intrusted to the care of Williams and Nomateehetee the preceding evening. Much to their credit and honor, he not only found every thing he had consigned to their protection and integrity, but also the musket with its bayonet, and cross cut saw, which had been lost out of the canoe, but which in the course of the night had been recovered by the natives; who promised, that the axes which were not yet obtained should likewise be restored, the instant they were recovered. The several articles being collected and sent down to the boat, with the man belonging to the Chatham who had been left on shore the preceding evening, Mr. Puget acquainted Enemoh that he was ready to attend them on board. Enemoh replied that, with respect to himself, he had not the least objection to accompany Mr. Puget with the young prince and Tipoone, a young chief about the prince's age, who seemed his principal companion; but that he was now prevented following his own inclinations by the chiefs who were present, and some women apparently of great consequence, who collectively demanded an hostage to be left with them

on shore, whilst we on board were honored with the company of these illustrious personages. On Mr. Puget's receiving and making known my orders, that Mr. Manby and Mr. Sheriff should remain behind in compliance with their desires, a general approbation was expressed by all present, and the regent with some attendants embarked; saying, that on his return the prince and his young friend should go on board, but that the island could not be left without either the prince or the regent.

      On Enemoh's coming on board he affected to recollect me, and said we had been acquainted when I was at Attowai with Captain Cook; and, to recall himself to my remembrance added, that he was present when I gave a lock of my hair to Taio, which Taio had ever since preserved, and always carried about him; and that he, Enemoh, had on that occasion requested a similar pledge of friendship, which, however, I thought proper to decline. These circumstances were very likely to have taken place, although at the moment they did not recur to my memory.

      A dozen hogs, and a quantity of mats and cloth, being presented by Enemoh, I made no delay in offering a suitable return, with which, however, he did not seem either delighted or satisfied. This produced an inquiry on my part; on which he frankly acknowledged, that the present I had made him was a very liberal one, but that he would gladly give up the whole for a musket, or even for a pistol. These engines of destruction had been uniformly solicited with the greatest ardency, by every native of the least consequence with whom we had any dealings; and I had frequently been much perplexed how, without offence, to refuse complying with requests so importunate, and, at the same time, in my humble opinion, so repugnant to the cause of humanity. On this occasion I availed myself of our peculiar situation, as it had respect to the trading vessels which he had been accustomed to visit; and informed him, that the ship, and every thing she contained, belonged to His Majesty King George, who had tabooed muskets, pistols, and various other articles. On this gunpowder and balls were immediately solicited; but, on being told that these were under similar restrictions, he remained silent, and seemed very thoughtful. At length, conceiving no importunities would avail, he recovered himself, and became as suddenly cheerful, as on the refusal of

his favorite weapons he had seemed dejected. He now shook me very heartily by the hand, and said, since arms and ammunition were tabooed, he must acknowledge that the presents he and his friends had received were very ample, and that they had reason to be highly satisfied. Enemoh recommended in the strongest terms the attendance of Nomateehetee and Too on our passage to Onchow, where they would be very serviceable in procuring us the different productions, and would prevent any disorderly behaviour on the part of the inhabitants. His opinion of his own importance was greatly flattered by our saluting him with four guns on his departure; and he took leave with every appearance of being extremely gratified with his visit.

      Mr. Puget, who had to execute the remaining part of his embassy, attended the venerable old chief and his suite on board the Chatham, where they paid their respects to Mr. Broughton; and, having received some presents from that gentleman, they proceeded to the shore. On landing, Enemoh exposed the several articles which had been given to him, and recounted the treatment he had received.

      Although Mr. Puget was much pleased with the satisfaction and happiness which the visit had afforded all present, he was much disappointed on understanding that the embarkation of the prince and his young friend would not take place. On his searching for the cause of this sudden alteration, and pointing out to Enemoh the reception he had met, the presents he had received, and assuring him, that we had no with or desire but to shew the same marks of respect and friendship to Tamooere, which he had given us an opportunity of paying to him (all of which were readily admitted); Enemo, with some hesitation, explained; and at length the reason was discovered to have proceeded from their having observed, that the two gentlemen who had been left as hostages, were down on the beach near the boats, and they supposed were going on board without waiting the return of the prince to the shore. Mr. Puget instantly removed their apprehensions, when all objections ceased; and the prince and his young companion were now as eager to get to the boat, as they before had been willing to return on the demur of the regent; from whom Mr. Puget understood, that some hogs and vegetables were every minute

expected to arrive. But not thinking it adviseable to wait, lest any other objection might arise and detain the prince on shore, he immediately put off, leaving Mr. Manby and Mr. Sheriff in their former situation as hostages.

      I was much pleased with the appearance and behaviour of this young prince, who seemed to be about twelve years of age. In his countenance was exhibited much affability and cheerfulness; and, on closely observing his features, they had infinitely more the resemblance of an European, than of those which generally characterize these islanders; being destitute of that natural ferocity so conspicuous in the persons about him. In these respects, and in the quickness of his comprehension and ideas, he greatly surpassed his young friend and companion Tipoone. At first, he was not without considerable agitation, marked as evidently by the sensibility of his countenance, as by his actions; in constantly clinging to me, and repeatedly saluting me according to their custom, by touching noses. I soon dissipated his fears by a few trifling presents, and encouraged him to visit every part of the ship. His inquiries and observations, on this occasion, were not, as might have been expected from his age, directed to trivial matters; which either escaped his notice, or were by him deemed unworthy of it; but to such circumstances alone, as would have authorized questions from persons of matured years and some experience. He conducted himself with a great degree of good breeding, and applied to Rowbottom or Williams, who were with him, to know if he might be permitted, or it were proper, to make this, or that inquiry; and never moved forward, or sat down, without first inquiring, if, by so doing, he should incur any displeasure. It was now about our dinner-time. His young friend Tipoone did not fail to partake of our repast, whilst the prince seemed infinitely more entertained with the several new objects that surrounded him, and, I believe, would have returned to the shore perfectly satisfied with his visit, had I offered him nothing more. Considering, however, that some acknowledgment was due for their care, and honesty in restoring not only the articles, which through necessity had been committed to their charge, but such as were recovered from the sea; when

dinner was ended, I presented Tamooere with nearly a duplicate assortment of the valuables I had, in the forenoon, given to Enemoh, with some few other things that seemed particularly to attract his attention. Amongst; these was a quantity of wine and rum, for which these islanders, like our southern friends, have acquired no inconsiderable relish. I presented likewise to his friend a collection of valuables; and gave to each of his attendants some trivial article, with which they seemed agreeably surprized, as this compliment was expected by none of them. Our countrymen who were in the habit of living with the prince, were instructed to impress on the minds of the royal party and the inhabitants in general, that the liberality they had experienced was wholly to be ascribed to their own civil, orderly, and honest behaviour; and, that, (in addition to what they had received,) as a particular testimony of my approbation of their conduct, if they would remain on board until it was dark they should be entertained with a display of fire-works. Tamoeree, though well satisfied that our intentions were pacific and friendly, and though perfectly reconciled to his situation on board, yet requested he might be permitted to go on shore, and, if Enemoh had no objection, he would return. He intreated us to remain a few days, to enable him to make us some return for our civilities, in hogs and vegetables; a supply of which, he expected, were already at the beach; but as we had accomplished all the business for which we had stopped at this island, and being desirous of obtaining from Onchow a stock of yams, (a vegetable that Attowai did not at that time afford) I gave the young prince to understand, that if the wind should prove favorable in the course of the night, we should, on a certainty, depart for Onchow.

      After visiting the Chatham with the prince, Mr. Puget returned with his charge to the shore; where the party was received with the greatest cordiality by a large concourse of the natives, who, under the restrictions of the taboo, were kept in excellent order. The prince was carried on a man's shoulders and seated in the house which our officers occupied. There he was soon joined by Enemoh, with a large train of attendants, who unanimously expressed their satisfaction and gratitude for the treatment

their young chief had experienced; of which, the valuable presents brought from the ships bore undeniable testimony.

      Not seeing, nor hearing any tidings of, the promised supply of provisions, nor discovering any inclination in the royal party to return for the purpose of attending the fire-works, Mr. Puget took his leave and repaired on board. Previously to his quitting the shore, the prince found out that the exhibition could be equally well seen from the beach, and therefore requested he might be indulged.

      As our young friend was anxiously waiting, with a large crowd of his countrymen, in expectation of something new, as soon as it became dark I ordered some sky and water rockets to be displayed. Nomateehetee and Too, who, with several of the natives, male and female, had begged a passage to Onchow, observed the rockets with infinite surprize and admiration, as did the concourse of people assembled on shore; which was announced to us by their repeated bursts of acclamation, distinctly heard, though at the distance of nearly two miles.

      I should be guilty of an unpardonable injustice to these people, were I to neglect this opportunity of observing, that the faithful performance of their engagement with Mr. Puget, combined with those principles of honesty that directed the restoration of the articles recovered from the sea, produced in our minds opinions very contrary to those which we had, perhaps too hastily, formed of Attowai, on the report of the recent visitors to this country; and which, on the prejudice of our first impressions, were confirmed greatly to the disadvantage of the general character, to which, it now appeared, these islanders were entitled. The reports, however, ought not to be considered as having originated without cause; though, in all likelihood, transgressions may have been committed by strangers as well as by the natives, and the want of a sufficient knowledge of each other's language, may have provoked mutual aggression, which, otherways, would not, so repeatedly, have produced misunderstandings. That the natives had not been faithfully dealt with on all occasions, seemed evident, from the prince or regent demanding an hostage for their safe return, on their consenting to venture themselves amongst us; a circumstance that had never before occurred in any of my visits to the

islands in this ocean. And, that they are capable of being taught by proper lessons and examples how to respect the property of others, is placed out of doubt by the exercise of those principles of rectitude that directed the honorable restoration of the musket and tools which they recovered from the sea; and this also affords reasonable grounds to believe, that, on their being convinced that irregularities and frauds are not to be committed with impunity, all the inhabitants of these islands would soon be induced to avoid disgrace and punishment, and secure the advantages resulting from the friendship of the more civilized world. Nothing could manifest more powerfully their being already extremely conscious of this important interest, than the faithful discharge of the trust reposed in them by Mr. Puget, and the delivery of the valuables recovered out of the water, which might have been secreted and with-held without fear of detection, and for which they were not requested to search; nor was any reward offered to those who might exert themselves to procure them. We might possibly be in some measure indebted for the good behaviour of the natives, to the confidence that the chiefs had reason to suppose was placed in their integrity. This, when reposed in their chiefs or responsible persons, I have, in former instances, seen attended with the most happy effect.

      The people of the several nations who have visited these islands, are well known and distinguished by the inhabitants. I was extremely well pleased to understand that the three resident men, though at present in the service of an American, had used every endeavour to impress on the minds of the natives, the most favorable opinion of the English; and I was made very happy on being convinced of the strong predilection and attachment which the young prince had conceived for the subjects of Great-Britain. This prepossession, if properly cherished, may eventually be highly important to the British traders; for, if conclusions may be permitted to be drawn from the general deportment and manners of his early years, the riper ones of this young prince must be attended with a very considerable degree of consequence, in this part of the world. This presumption appears the more warrantable, by the splendid atchievements, and the example he will have had exhibited by

his father, who has raised himself to the high station he at present fills by his perseverance and prowess in military exploits.

      The predilection of the prince was not only conspicuous in the attention shewn to Rowbottom and his comrades, whose persons and property he had made sacred by their constantly residing with him, and by his making them his companions in all his diversions and amusements, but in his having assumed the title of King George; not suffering his domestics to address him by any other name, and being much displeased with us, as well as his countrymen, if we called him Tamooere.

      Besides the different articles of traffic with which I presented this promising youth, were a male and female goat, and two geese; Mr. Broughton added a third; and we had hopes they were of different sexes. He had likewise an ewe and a ram in most excellent condition, left by Mr. Colnett; these had bred, but their progeny had been unfortunately killed by a dog. Notwithstanding this accident, there was every prospect of their future propagation and success.

      From Mr. Puget I learned, that there appeared in none of his transactions with the royal party any marks of external respect towards them, either from the subordinate chiefs, or the common people. When I was at these islands with Captain Cook, prostration was very usually observed, and seemed then to be demanded even by chiefs, though not of the highest rank. On this occasion, the only circumstance which proclaimed the prince's superior rank, was a guard consisting of about thirty men, armed with iron pahooas, who attended him and the royal personages on all excursions, carrying thirteen muskets made up into three bundles, with some callibashes containing ammunition, of which it was thought expedient we should be apprized previous to their visit, lest such formidable appearances should create in us distrust or suspicion. During the time our party was employed on shore, an armed man was scarcely ever seen; and such of the natives who appeared so provided, brought their weapons for the purpose of sale only.

      About three in the morning of the 14th, we failed with a fine northerly breeze for Onehow, in order, whilst the decks of the Chatham were

caulking, to take on board such yams and other vegetables as we might be able to procure.

      On our arrival at Onehow, we anchored in 14 fathom water off the south part of the island, about ¾ of a mile from the shore; its south east point bearing by compass S. 77 E. its west point N.48 W. and the island of Tahoora S. 58 W. Finding the bottom here soft, sandy, regular, and good, I was induced to prefer this anchorage to a situation I had been in, further to the N.N.W. as the surf broke with great violence on the N.W. side of the island, though here we rode very smoothly. Nomateehctee wished we had proceeded further west; saying, the natives would have a great way to bring us their yams and other productions. The station we had taken was not however attended with any such inconvenience; as, by friday in the afternoon, we had purchased a very ample supply: and the Chatham's deck being now finished, about six in the evening we proceeded together towards the coast of America.

      On our departure, the two Englishmen with our other friends took their leave, who, for the good services they had rendered us, received acknowledgments far beyond their most sanguine expectations.

      The supply of refreshments which the Sandwich islands on this occasion had afforded us, was undeniably a very scanty one. This, however, I did not solely attribute to scarcity, as I had frequently great reason to believe an abundant stock might have been procured, had we been inclined to have purchased them with arms and ammunition; with which, through the unpardonable conduct of the various traders who have visited these islands, the inhabitants have become very familiar, and use these weapons with an adroitness that would not disgrace the generality of European soldiers. Their great avidity for procuring these destructive engines may possibly have been increased by the successes of Tianna, who, it should seem, is principally indebted for his present exaltation, to the fire arms he imported from China, and those he has since procured from the different traders. His example has produced in every chief of consequence an inordinate thirst for power; and a spirit of enterprize and ambition seems generally diffused amongst them. If reliance is to be placed on the information which I received, the flame of these unwar-

rantable desires has been raised by the practice of every species of artifice and address in their European and American visitors; who have thereby enhanced the value of such destructive articles of commerce. For these alone the natives now seem inclined to exchange the valuable refreshments, with which there can be little doubt these islands still abound. The evil of this trade will be materially selt by vessels that may have occasion to resort to this country, unequipped with military stores for the inhuman purpose of barter with these people; and it is much to be apprehended the mischief will extend considerably further, as we have been acquainted, by the late adventurers in the fur trade, that these islanders have tried various schemes to destroy the crews, and to gain possession of some of the trading vessels, in which they succeeded too well with Mr. Medcalf's schooner at Owhyhee. These ambitious designs however, had been rendered in most instances ineffectual, by the superiority alone which the traders possessed in fire-arms; and yet, neither the conviction of their own security being wholly dependant on these powerful means of defence, nor the common principles of humanity, seem to have had sufficient influence to restrain a traffic, encouraged by avaricious pursuits in defiance of all moral obligation.

      The alteration which has taken place in the several governments of these islands since their first discovery by Captain Cook, has arisen from incessant war, instigated both at home and abroad by ambitious and enterprizing chieftans; which the commerce for European arms and ammunition cannot fail of encouraging to the most; deplorable extent.

      If we may be allowed to decide by comparing the numerous throngs that appeared on the first visits of the Resolution and Discovery, and which were then constantly attendant on all our motions, with the very few we have seen on the present occasion, the mortality must have been very considerable. It may however be objected, that the novelty of such visitors having, at this time, greatly abated, is sufficient to account for the apparent depopulation. But when it is considered, how essential our different implements and manufactures are now become to their common comforts, that reason will not apply; as every individual is eager to

bring forth all his superfluous wealth, on the arrival of European commodities in the market.

      At Whytcete, I had occasion to observe that, although the town was extensive, and the houses numerous, yet they were thinly inhabited, and many appeared to be intirely abandoned. The village of Whymea is reduced at least two-thirds of its size, since the years 1778 and 1779. In those places where, on my former visits, the houses were most numerous, was now a clear space, occupied by grass and weeds. That external wars and internal commotions had been the cause of this devastation, was further confirmed by the result of my inquiries off Owhyhee, when it did not appear that any of the chiefs, with whom I had been formerly acquainted, excepting Tamaah-maaha, was then living; nor did we understand, that many had died a natural death, most of them having been killed in these deplorable contests.

      The short time we remained amongst these people, did not allow of my obtaining the satisfactory information I sought, and which was so very desirable on this, as well as on other important topics. This has induced me to reserve the subject matter I had collected, until I should have an opportunity of going into a more correct investigation: for the present, therefore, I shall take leave of the Sandwich islands, by stating the advantages which the Americans promise themselves by the commercial interests they are endeavouring to establish in these seas.

      Previously to the departure of Rowbottom and Williams, they informed me, that their captain had conceived that a valuable branch of commerce might be created, by the importation of the sandal-wood of this country into India, where it sells at an exorbitant price; that, in the fur trade, immense profits had been gained, insomuch that it was expected not less than twenty vessels would, on these pursuits, sail with their captain (Kendrick) from New England, and that they were desired to engage the natives to provide several cargoes of this wood, which is easily procured, as the mountains of Attowai as well as those of Owhyhee, abound with the trees from which it is produced; though we were not able to procure any of their leaves, to determine its particular class or species. The wood seemed but slightly to answer the description

given of the yellow sandal wood of India, which is there a very valuable commodity, and is sold by weight.

      The pearls I saw were but few, and consisted of three sorts, the white, yellow, and lead colour. The white were very indifferent, being small, irregular in shape, and possessing little beauty; the yellow, and those of a lead-colour, were better formed, and, in point of appearance, of superior quality. Mr. Kendrick must, undoubtedly, flatter himself with great emoluments from these branches of commerce, or he would not thus have retained three men in constant pay for such a considerable length of time, with a promise of further reward if they conducted themselves with fidelity towards his interest. This proceeding, however, appears to have been the effect of a sudden thought, as it was not until his brig was weighing anchor at Onehow that he came to this determination, and landed the three men; who, in consequence of such short notice, had no means of equipping themselves, and were left almost. destitute of apparel. The few clothes they had were nearly worn out; these I replaced with a sufficient stock to serve them some time; and, to add as much as possible to their comforts in their present situation, and to make them respectable in the eyes of the people with whom they were yet to remain for several months, they received such tools and articles of traffic as would best answer their purpose, and some books, pens, ink, and paper, for their amusement, with an assortment of garden seeds, and some orange and lemon plants that were in a very flourishing state.

      To the care of Rowbottom, who seemed the most qualified, I intrusted a letter of instructions to the commanding officer of the storeship, whose arrival we daily expected; as also one to the Lords of the Admiralty, acquainting them with the time we had quitted these islands, the state and condition of the vessels, and health of their crews, the route I had taken to this station, and the discoveries we had made.

      Kendall's chronometer, agreeably to its error and rate of going as ascertained at Otaheite, agreed so well on our arrival at Owhyhee, that I was not at all solicitous for any further investigation. Our observations in Whymea road made its latitude 21°57′½, and its longitude, by the chronometer, 200° 18′ 15″, varying 5′ 15″ to the eastward of Captain

Cook's, and 1′ 45″ to the westward of Captain King's assigned true longitude of the roadsted; whence I concluded its rate of going very correct. The Portsmouth rate shewed 201° 40′ 45″. Mr. Arnold's chronometer, on board the Chatham, made the longitude of Whymea, according to its Otaheitean rate, 199° 58′ 30″. Our anchorage at Onehow, by observation, was in latitude 21° 46′ 30″, the longitude, by the chronometer, 199° 40′. This station is to the E.S.E. of the spot where the Resolution anchored, and which is laid down by Captain Cook in latitude 21° 50′, longitude 199° 45′; consequently, our observations place the south point of Onehow nearly in the same latitude, though 8′ further to the westward, and 2 leagues further distant from Whymea. The Portsmouth rate shewed the longitude to be 201° 5′; but Mr. Arnold's chronometer made a much greater difference, as it placed the anchorage at Onehow in longitude 199° 12′ 15″. At this island, we found the tides regular, as noticed by Captain Cook; but at Attowai and Woahoo, there was a current which generally set to the eastward.

CHAPTER IV.

Mr. Whidbey's account of Gray's harbour — Transactions of the Dælalus at the Marquesas, and at some newly-discovered islands — Murder of Lieutenant Hergest at Woahoo — Arrival of the Dædalus at Nootka.

      AT Sun-set, on the 18th of october, the Dædalus anchored before the entrance of Gray's harbour, in 7 fathoms water, about half a mile from the reef that extends from the north point of entrance; a boat was sent to examine the passage into this harbour, but returned with little more information than that of its being very intricate, and that it would require much time to become acquainted with it. At day-light the next morning, a boat was again sent for the same purpose, and afterwards the ship was got under weigh, in order to be in readiness; but the boat not returning, another was dispatched at noon, and at three o'clock both returned; the first having been detained by the strength of the stood tide. From their report the ship immediately bore away, and passed a bar in eighteen feet water. The bar extends directly across the entrance into the harbour, which is about a mile wide; from whence they proceeded up the channel, formed by two reefs about three quarters of a mile asunder, extending into the ocean from the points of land which form the entrance into this harbour. Here the depth of water regularly increased from 4 to 11 fathoms, but the ebb tide made so strong, that although the ship went nearly at the rate of five knots, little progress was made; this compelled them to anchor about seven o'clock in the latter depth, having a clear sandy bottom. The outer breakers, on the reef forming the northern side of the passage, bore by com-

pass S. 58 W. distant 2 miles; a dry sand bank N. 81 W. half a mile distant; the inner breakers on the same side N. 31 E. at the like distance; the outer breakers on the southern side S. 32 W. distant 2 miles; and the inner breakers on that side, N. 65 E.; these form the channel within the bar: there is also a breaker on the bar about a quarter of a mile from the S. W. point of the northernmost ledge of breakers, which bore S. 50 W.

      On the morning of the 20th the wind blowing a strong gale from the N.E., prevented the ship moving; but whilst the stood tide lasted, the boats were profitably employed in the further examination of the channel. The observed latitude was found to be 46° 58′½.

      Fair weather attended the N.E. gale, which continued until the next morning, when the wind veered to the S. E.; the Dædalus then flood into the harbour, and was moored about noon in 4 fathoms water, off the north point of entrance.

      This is a rounding point, bearing by compass from N. 34 W. to N.68 W., the former distant half a mile; the south point of entrance bore S. 20 W. and the intermediate space was shut in from the sea by the reefs. This anchorage was found to be a very snug and safe situation, and it was a fortunate retreat, as a hard gale of wind set in from the S. E. with a great deal of rain, which continued until the next morning, when Mr. Whidbey began his examination of the harbour. It seemed to be of no great extent, as the land appeared to be closely connected on every side; the operation however proved to be very tedious, in consequence of the very bad weather, and the difficulty of approaching the several parts of the shore on which it was necessary to land. This survey was not finished so far as the boats could proceed, until the morning of the 26th. The north point of entrance, named by Mr. Whidbey after Captain* Brown, is situated in latitude 47°, longitude 236° 7′; the variation of the compass 18° easterly. From hence its southern point of entrance, which obtained the name of POINT HANSON after Lieutenant Hanson who commanded the Dædalus, lies S. 10 E., distant about 2 miles and a quarter from the former; the breakers of the northern side of the channel stretch first S. 33 W. for half a league, and then S. 72 W.

two miles and three quarters further, where they terminate on that side. Those on the southern side extend first N. 59 W. for a mile, and then S. 61 W. 2 miles and three quarters further, where these also terminate. From these terminations of the reefs, the bar stretches across from point to point, on which at high neap tides there is only twenty feet water; having on it the breaker before noticed, contracting the width of the passage, which can only be considered to lie between it and the southern reef. After passing the bar the channel appeared to be uninterrupted, the northern fide being the deepest, with regular foundings from 4 to 14 fathoms; the latter depth was found in the narrowest part, not more than half a mile wide, between the two first mentioned projecting points of the reef, from the points of the harbour. Thence in the line of mid-channel the depth decreases to 6 fathoms between, the points of the harbour, and to 4 and 3 fathoms towards the southern side, which is the shallowest; it however increases to 10 and decreases again to 6 and 3 fathoms near point Brown: this is the boldest shore, and affords a space of near two miles in extent to the N.E. east and S. E. of it, where maybe found good and secure anchorage; with regular foundings from 10 to 4 fathoms; to the north is excellent anchorage also in 4 to 6 fathom water, though this is more confined by the shoals. From point Brown, to a point up the harbour, lying from it N. 65 E. at the distance of 4 miles and a quarter, which obtained the name of POINT NEW after the master of the store ship, the northern shore forms a deep Bay, falling back near a league and a half from the line of the two points. This Bay is occupied by shoals and overfals commencing about a mile to the north of point Brown, stretching nearly in an eastern direction, and passing, about a mile to the southward of point New, up to the navigable extent of the harbour, which terminates in an eastern direction about 2 leagues from point Brown, though the shore on each side retires about half a league further back; but the intermediate space, consisting of a shallow flat, prevented the head of the harbour from being approached, where was the appearance of a small rivulet. From this station the shoals on its southern side take a direction nearly S. 73 W., until they reach within about 1 mile and three quarters of point Brown, lying from

that point S. 45 E.; there, a point is formed that stretches to the southward, and admits of a narrow channel of about 4 and 5 fathoms water, between them and the shoal that lies on the eastern side of point Hanson, into a small cove, lying from that point S.50 E. 2 miles distant. These shoals, extending intirely round the harbour, are in some parts particularly on its southern side dry at low water, and on them are lodged great numbers of dead trees and logs of drift timber. There are also two other shoals situated at the distance of 2 miles to the eastward of point Brown, lying nearly in a north and south direction. The easternmost, which is the largest, and partly a dry sand, nearly connects the two shoal banks, admitting a narrow passage to the north of it with 5 fathoms, and another to the south of it in which there is only 3 fathoms water. The rise and fall of the tide was here found to be about ten feet, and it is high water about 50′ after the moon passes the meridian. The only leading mark for sailing into this harbour, are two small red cliffy islets lying to the N.W. of point New; the outermost of these, having the resemblance of a flower pot, in a line with point Brown, leads over the center of the bar; as also, over part of the northern reef, easily avoided by keeping in the depth of water already mentioned, after crossing the bar. Any further nautical information that may be required, will be found by reference to the sketch of this survey.

      This port appears to be of little importance in its present state, as it affords but two or three situations where the boats could approach sufficiently near the. shores to effect a landing; the most commodious place was at point Brown; another near point Hanson; and one in the cove or creek to the S. E. of that point. The shallowness of the water on the bar also renders it by no means a desirable port. To pass this is impracticable unless near high water, even with vessels of a very moderate size, and it should then be attempted with the utmost caution; since Mr. Whidbey had great reason to believe that it is a shifting bar; there being a very apparent difference in the channel on their arrival, and at their departure, when it seemed to have become much wider but less deep. A dry sand bank which lay near their anchorage the first evening 011 the north side of the channel, was now intirely washed away by

the violence of the sea, which had incessantly broke upon the shoals and bar.

      Wood and water are at too great a distance to be easily procured, particularly the latter, which is found in small springs only, running through the sand near point Hanson, at the distance of a mile from the landing place, over a very heavy sand.

      The surrounding shores are low and apparently swampy, with salt marshes; the soil is a thin mixture of red and white sand, over a bed of stones and pebbles. At a small distance from the water side the country is covered with wood, principally pines of an inferior stunted growth.

      Both the Dædalus and Chatham had greatly the advantage of the Discovery, by being detained in port during the boisterous weather that we contended with. There they procured a most abundant supply of excellent fish, and wild fowl; the productions of Gray's harbour being similar to those found in and about Columbia river. Salmon, sturgeon, and other fish, were plentifully obtained from the natives, and geese, ducks, and other wild fowl, shot by themselves in such numbers, as sometimes to serve the whole of their crews. The best sporting ground in Gray's harbour was found to be on its south side.

      Mr. Whidbey estimated the number of Indians inhabiting this place at about one hundred; they spoke the Nootka language, but it did not appear to be their native tongue; and they seemed to vary in little or no respect from those people we had occasionally seen during the summer. Their behaviour was uniformly civil, courteous, and friendly. In Mr. Whidbey's excursion to the head of the harbour he was visited by nineteen of them, who, having satisfied their curiosity and received some trivial presents, were about to depart, when the boat in endeavouring to approach a small rivulet became entangled amongst shoals, sunken logs of wood, and stumps of trees; on which there being some sea occasioned the boat frequently to strike, and rendered its situation very disagreeable; the friendly Indians, perceiving their embarrassment, very kindly by signs, and other means, afforded them such assistance as soon

conducted them into deep water, when they took their leave and departed.

      Mr. Whidbey considered them to be rather a more slender race than we had been accustomed to see, and that, contrary to the generality of the men we had become acquainted with on the coast of North West America, these did not appear to be jealous of their women, but allowed them to repair on board the vessel, where they remained many hours at a time much to their satisfaction. They appeared to be divided into three distinct tribes, or parties, each having one or two chiefs. When inquiries were made of any one party respecting the other two, they would reply that the others were bad people, and that the party questioned were the only good Indians in the harbour. Hence may be inferred that they were at this time at variance, and that their interests were totally separate from each other. Some of their war canoes were seen; these had a piece of wood rudely carved, perforated, and placed at each end, three feet above the gunwale; through these holes they are able to discharge their arrows, without exposing their persons to their adversaries, either in advancing or retreating. Each canoe held twenty people or upwards; little difference appeared in their bows or arrows from those generally met with; the former were somewhat more circular, and the latter were pointed with iron, copper, or shells, some of which were barbed; these seemed to be their most favorite weapon, and were managed with great dexterity. One of the Indians desired the mate of the Dædalus to shoot a pelican sitting on the water about fifty yards off. The mate fired twice with single ball without hurting the bird, which kept its station. The Indian missed it with the first arrow, but with the second he pierced through the wing and body of the pelican, to the great exultation of all the natives present. They are well versed in commercial pursuits, and dealt very fairly and honestly. For sea-otter skins they sometimes required iron in exchange, but in general sold them for copper and woollen cloth. About thirty or forty good sea-otter skins, with many of inferior quality, were thus purchased; for their less valuable commodities they were partial to pale blue beads, two of which would buy a large salmon. They appeared to be a hardy people,

and inured to the inclemency of the weather; which, when at the worst, did not deter them from visiting the ship, though the sea frequently broke intirely over them. On such occasions they bale their canoe, and paddle on, without the least apparent concern.

      This is the substance of the information acquired by Mr. Whidbey in his visit to Gray's harbour; and, as the observations made on the passage of the Dædalus from thence to Monterrey, would, like those of the Chatham, be only a repetition of what has been already related, I shall now proceed to date some interesting intelligence collected from letters written off Owhyhee by the late Lieutenant Hergest, agent to the Dædalus transport, respecting his transactions at the Marquesas, and the discovery of some islands to the N.W. of them, with an extract from his log-book on the same subjects; together with the account given by Mr. Thomas New the master of the unfortunate death of that officer, and of the late Mr. Gooch the astronomer. As the preceding part of Mr. Hergest's voyage appeared by the journals on board to contain no very interesting intelligence, the narrative will commence on the arrival of the Dædalus at the Marquesas.

      The length of the passage from Falkland's islands into this ocean, rendered it necessary that Mr. Hergest should embrace the earliest opportunity to recruit his water, and procure refreshments, especially as the character, that, had been lately published in England of the inhabitants on the Sandwich islands, made it uncertain that any supplies would be procured from that quarter. Having made the Marquesas, Lieutenant Hergest directed his course for Resolution bay in the island of Ohetahoo; where the Dædalus anchored on the evening of the 22d of march, 1792, in 22 fathoms water, sandy bottom; having worked into the Bay against very heavy squalls and gusts of wind, which came down with great fury from the hills that overlook the shores.

      In one of these heavy squalls, about 4 o'clock the next morning, they parted from their anchor and drove out of the Bay. The vessel was scarcely clear of the points when Mr. Hergest discovered the ship to be on fire. They had all been prevented sleeping during the night by the ship having been full of smoke; those who had the watch on deck at-

tributed this circumstance to the smoke having come from the shore; and this opinion, very inconsiderately and without reflection had been generally adopted, until Mr. Hergest, after the ship had cleared the points of the Bay, in going into the cabin was convinced that the smoke originated from a nearer and more alarming cause. On listing up the gun room scuttle, there immediately issued an immense column of smoke, which left no doubt of their perilous situation, as the fire was close to the magazine. Not a moment was lost in getting out the powder, and putting it into a boat alongside, but this was no easy task to perform; as the gun room was extremely hot and full of smoke, and the powder, very injudiciously, had been promiscuously stowed amongst the ship's provisions. On this occasion there appears to have been no exertion wanting in the crew of the Dædalus, to whose credit Mr. Hergest observes, that in that trying moment every man flood firm to his duty, without suffering fear or panic to swerve them from its execution; although on some other occasions they had given him much trouble and serious concern. At first the fire was supposed to have been occasioned by some oakum, stowed in the fore part of the gun room, taking fire, by accidentally getting wet; since no lights had ever been near it. After a large quantity of provisions had been hoisted up to get out the powder, the smoke was still found to ascend from below; this circumstance, with that of the deck being so hot as not to allow the people keeping their hands upon some lead that was laid upon it, convinced them that the fire must be in the lazaretto below, where some pursers beds were now recollected to have been very improperly stowed; and from the seas they had shipped during the tempestuous weather which they had experienced in their passage round cape Horn, no doubt was entertained that these beds had got wet and had taken fire. Every minute confirming Mr. Hergest in this opinion, care was immediately taken to stop every avenue and crevice about the after hatch-way, to prevent any communication of air before they ventured to scuttle the deck for the purpose of extinguishing the fire by pouring water over it. Happily they had day-light for executing this; and were soon convinced, that the fire had originated as they had last conjectured, from the appearance of the ascending smoke,

on scuttling the deck, as also of the good effect of their judicious labours. Other holes were now bored immediately over the beds, and after pouring down large quantities of water, they soon had reason to be gratefully thankful to divine Providence for so timely and critical a preservation. Some of the beds were intirely consumed; a case on which they were laid, as also the deck over them, were burnt some way into the wood to a black cinder. Little else was flowed with these beds but rum and oil; so that had the fire once broke out into a blaze, the extinguishing it, or preventing its communication with these inflammable substances, would have been morally impossible, and their destruction would have been inevitable.

      The fire thus providentially discovered and happily extinguished, all the bedding, being either burnt or rotten, was got up and thrown overboard. Fearful of drifting too far to leeward, they were obliged to make sail in order to work into the Bay, although the decks at this time were very much encumbered. Many of the natives were about the ship, employed in picking up the rotten bedding that had been thrown into the sea. At eleven in the forenoon they anchored near their former station. The natives had taken away the buoy, but had fastened a piece of wood to the buoy-rope, which answered all the purposes of recovering their anchor; this was soon effected, and the ship steadied with the kedge anchor to the southward; the south point of the Bay bearing by compass S.W., the north point N.W., and the watering place E. by N. one mile distant. The village in the south cove being the nearest shore, was at the distance of about a quarter of a mile.

      In the afternoon Mr. Hergest in the cutter, attended by the second mate in the long boat, went to procure water, and landed with the mate and three men, though not without much difficulty on account of the surf. This did not permit them to put more than two casks on shore. Many of the natives were assembled, and in consequence of there being no chief amongst them were soon found to be very troublesome, as they stole every thing they could make off with, so that not a bucket was left them to fill the casks with water. Mr. Hergest, finding that his party on shore would require considerable reinforcement to effect his purpose.

was about to embark, when one of his people claimed his attention. The natives had amused themselves by pulling the hair of a young man, and other waggish tricks, whilst his endeavours to prevent this rudeness afforded the rest of the Indians as high an entertainment as it would have done an English rabble. These indignities were so galling to the poor fellow, that no longer able to endure them, and not being in a situation to resent the insults he received, he burst into a flood of tears. On Mr. Hergest reproaching him in rather harsh terms for exposing so great a proof of his weakness, he found himself suddenly turned round by the natives who were behind him, and his fowling piece forcibly wrenched out of his hand. On the impulse of the moment he called to the mate to fire and bring down the thief, but fortunately, "I say fortunately" repeats Mr. Hergest, "his piece was not cocked, and I had time to recollect that his musket was then the only one on shore; and there is no faying what consequences might have followed had the thief been shot." Mr. Hergest and his party very prudently retired immediately to their boats, which they effected without any opposition; but on re-embarking, it was found that some of the Indians had dived under water and cut the long boat's grapnel-rope, by which means they lost the grapnel.

      These unprovoked injuries and indignities were not easily to be put up with; and Mr. Hergest very properly reflected, that passing by such insults and depredations would only encourage the islanders to persevere in these unwarrantable practices. In order therefore to awe them into better behaviour, he rowed close to the beach, and discharged a volley of musketoons and small arms over their heads. This measure had the good effect of driving them all, excepting one man, from the beach among the trees; this fellow was bold enough to remain, and throw stones with his fling at the boats. Mr. Hergest however took no notice of him, being determined to shew them the effect of their great guns, four of which were fired over the village on his return to the Dædalus. These produced such consternation, that the natives were seen making the best of their way in every direction towards the mountains.

      The clearing the ship's decks and putting her to rights employed all hands till nearly dark, when one of the natives swam off with their usual ensigns of peace, a green bough, wrapped up in white cloth; this he threw into the ship, and immediately returned to the shore. By this act of humiliation on the part of the natives, Mr. Hergest had great reason to expect that he should be enabled to carry into execution the service they had to perform on shore, without further molestation; and to hope that none of the Indians were killed or materially hurt, as his intention was only to frighten them, and by the superiority of his powers to shew them, that such improper behaviour should not long remain unchastised. In these expectations, the next morning (october 24th) he met with no disappointment, though it was not possible to restrain intirely the exercise of their thievish faculties, even on board the ship. The astronomer's theodolite, in its case, happening to be on deck, one of them contrived to convey it away, but being discovered swimming with it to his canoe, a musket was discharged by the chief mate, and it had the good effect of making the Indian abandon his prize, which was recovered, the case being sufficient to keep it afloat. After this the natives supplied them with bread fruit, together with a large quantity of other vegetables, and a few small pigs.

      On Mr. Hergest's return to the shore, with a guard well armed, for the purpose of procuring water, no inconvenience arose from the natives; on the contrary, they cheerfully assisted in swimming off to the boats, filling and rolling down the water casks, and in other services, for which they were liberally rewarded with such trivial articles as they most highly esteemed.

      One person only had been seen bearing the appearance of a chief, whose name was Tu-ow, and who had been amongst their first visitors on their arrival. In the afternoon, he brought as a present some vegetables, with a small pig or two, for which he received a suitable reward; and was also presented by Mr. Hergest with the only English sow he had left, for the purpose of improving the breed of those animals in that country. Their operations were now carried on in a very amicable manner, but the number of visitors greatly impeded their business; to obviate this

inconvenience the colours were hoisted, in order to signify that the ship was tabooed. This had the desired effect with respect to the men; but the women, who probably had more incitements than bare curiosity, were not to be so easily restrained. They still continued to swim from the shore in such numbers, that they were obliged, frequently, to fire muskets over their heads to deter them from advancing.

      A tolerable supply of vegetables was obtained, but so few hogs, that it was noon on the 26th before a sufficient number were procured to serve the ship's company at the rate of one pound and a half per man; and these were purchased with twelve inches of bar iron for each small pig.

      Two chiefs, who visited the ship on the 27th, restored the grapnel that had been stolen, and promised to bring back Mr. Hergest's fowling piece. In the afternoon Mr. Hergest was employed in surveying and founding the Bay, the depth of water was found to be regular from 30 fathoms at its entrance to 9 fathoms towards the shore, admitting of good anchorage within that space. Round the shores of the Bay, at a very small distance, the depth of water was from 7 to 5 and 4 fathoms.

      Having completed their supply of water on the 29th of october, and having finished all the business they were here desirous of executing, just as they were preparing to sail the two chiefs who had returned the grapnel re-visited the ship, and repeated their promise that the fowling piece should be restored. In consequence of their former good behaviour they had received many valuable presents; and as they were now in Mr. Hergest's power, and as he was well assured that they could obtain the restitution of his gun, he informed one of the chiefs that the ship was immediately going to sea, and that if the fowling piece was not instantly sent on board he should be carried away from his island. To these threats he paid little attention, until an armed centinel was placed to guard him in the cabin; when his apprehensions became visible, and were not a little augmented by the alarm of the Indians on board, most of whom quitted the ship. Mr. Hergest, perceiving his agitation, used every means to assure him, that he should not be hurt, but yet if the gun was withheld, that he would on a certainty proceed with him to sea. This conversation had the desired effect; a message was sent to the chief in whole possession the piece was,

and in about half an hour a canoe was seen coming towards the ship displaying the usual emblems of peace, in which was a chief who had brought back the gun, and to whom Mr. Hergest delivered up the prisoner unhurt. The tears, eager salutation, and the fond delight expressed by the chief who had been detained on again embracing his countrymen, plainly discovered the terror of his mind under the apprehension of seeing them no more. They now parted very good friends, and both the prisoner and the other chief seemed perfectly reconciled on receiving some useful presents.

      Thus the Dædalus quitted the island and its inhabitants, with whom they seemed to be continually on the eve of a quarrel, in consequence of their repeated and daring thefts. Mr. Hergest very humanely concludes the account of his transactions at the Marquesas, by expressing much happiness that he had not been driven to the melancholy necessity of putting any of the natives to death, for the security of their property; and, excepting one man who was detected in stealing a bucket, and who was suffered to reach his canoe before a musket was fired, with the intention to frighten him by passing the ball through his canoe, but which unintentionally passed through the calf of his leg, no other person appeared to have received the least injury. This was a very fortunate circumstance, as the shot fired from the great guns went far up the valley, where were many of their habitations; and their escaping unhurt on that occasion, was more than could well have been expected. It is however very probable they may not fare so well on the future arrival of other vessels, since their inordinate propensity to thieving seems beyond all restraint or controul; and there did not appear to be any chief amongst them, who possessed either inclination or authority sufficient to deter them from such practices.

      In the evening, about five o'clock, they weighed and steered to the northward. At day-light the next morning (30th october) they came within sight of some islands, which appeared to Mr. Hergest to be new discoveries. Those first seen were three in number, one bearing by compass N. by E., the other N. by W., and the third S.W. by S. They fetched the S.W. part of the easternmost, where a good Bay was found

with a Tandy beach. Some rocky islets lie to the S.E. of it, and from a gully in the N.W. part of the Bay, there was an appearance of procuring a supply of water. To the east of the south point there appeared another good Bay; and along the western shore, shallow broken water. But, on rounding that point, and hauling to the north along the west side, the broken water was found to extend not more than a quarter of a mile from the shore. On this side there is neither cove nor inlet, only a rocky shore, with two small rocky islets off its N.W. point. This island is about 6 leagues in circuit, and is in latitude 8° 5o' south; longitude 220° 51′ east. It is inhabited by a tribe of seemingly friendly Indians, some of whom visited the ship in their canoes. In the vallies were a great number of cocoa nut and plantain trees, and the whole island presented an infinitely more verdant and fertile appearance than those they had just quitted. From hence they flood over to the southernmost island, which appears at a distance like a remarkably high rock, with three peaked rocks close to it; these are about the middle of the island. The night was spent in keeping their station near it, and in the morning their course was directed towards its S.W. point. As the shore was approached, the land was seen to be well cultivated and numerously inhabited. More than one hundred Indians were soon assembled round the ship in their canoes, disposing of cocoa nuts, plantains, &c. for beads and other trifles, and behaving in a very friendly manner. At the S.W. end of this island is a very good Bay, with a sandy beach in its eastern part. Along the southern side are other bays; one in particular appeared to retire deeply in towards the S.E. end of the island, having a small islet lying off it, not unlike in shape to a cathedral, and other rocks and islets. From the weft point of this island, forming also the west point of the finest and deepest Bay it affords, its shores trend round to the N.E.; and, like the west side of the island they were at the preceding day, (which received the name of RIOU'S ISLAND) are rocky, and bear rather a steril appearance. This island obtained the name of TREVENEN'S ISLAND; it is situated in latitude 9° 14′ south, longitude 220° 21′ east.

      In the forenoon of the 1st of april, the south side of the third island was passed, which was named SIR HENRY MARTIN'S ISLAND; immediately to the west of its S.E. point, called point Martin, is a deep well-sheltered Bay bounded by sandy beaches, this obtained the name of COMPTROLLER'S BAY; it was not examined, but on passing had the appearance of a safe and commodious port. At its head was a break in the shores, supposed by some to be the mouth of a rivulet, but as it appeared too large for so small an island to afford, Mr. Hergest was rather inclined to believe it only a deep cove.

      They were here visited by many of the natives paddling and sailing in their canoes; who behaved in a very civil and friendly manner. About 2 leagues to the westward of point Martin is a very fine harbour, extending deep into the island, and bounded by a most delightful and fertile country. Mr. Hergest, accompanied by Mr. Gooch went with the cutter to take a sketch and to examine the port, which he called PORT ANNA MARIA. It was found to be very easy of access and egress, without any shoals or rocks that are not sufficiently conspicuous to be avoided; the depth at its entrance 24 fathoms, gradually decreasing to 7 fathoms, within a quarter of a mile of its shores; the bottom a fine sand, and the surrounding land affording most perfect, security against the winds and sea in all directions. An excellent run of fine water flows into the harbour, which possesses every advantage that could be desired.

      The country seemed to be highly cultivated, and was fully inhabited by a civil and friendly race of people, readily inclined to supply whatever refreshments their country afforded. Our people were induced to entertain this opinion from the hospitable reception they experienced on landing, from the chiefs and upwards of fifteen hundred of the natives who were assembled on the shores of the harbour. On their return to the ship they found the same harmony subsisting there with the Indians, who had carried off and fold a supply of vegetables and some pigs. They renewed their route along the south side of the island to its S.W. point, when they hauled their wind along the western side. This is a rocky iron bound shore without cove or bay. It had a verdant appear-

      ance, but no great sign of fertility, nor were any habitations or natives perceived. About sun-set they discovered what appeared like a large rock to the north-westward, about 6 or 7 leagues distant, and during the night they remained near Sir Henry Martin's island; but in the morning not being able to fetch its N. E. point they quitted it; its N.W. side appeared to contain some small bays, and towards its N.E. extremity the land turned, apparently, short round, forming a bay something similar to, but not so deep as Comptroller's bay. Another rock just above water now shewed its head to the eastward, and to the northward of that before mentioned. These Mr. Hergest represents to be dangerous; they lie about W. by N. about 6 leagues from the western side of Sir Henry Martin's island, which is about 16 leagues in circuit. Its center is situated in south latitude 8° 51′, longitude 220° 19′, east.

      After leaving this island, two others were discovered to the northward of them. On the morning of the 3d of april they bore up to the southward, along the east side of the south-westernmost. This is the largest of the two, its shores are rocky, without any coves or landing places, and though its surface was green it produced no trees, yet a few shrubs and bushes were thinly scattered over the face of the rocks; nor did it seem to be otherways inhabited than by the tropical oceanic birds. These were in great numbers about it, and it seemed to be a place of their general resort. The N.W. side, however, had a more favorable aspect, and although its shores were also rocky a number of trees were produced, as well on the sides of the hills, as in the vallies. This side afforded some coves where there is good landing, particularly in one near the middle; this, from the appearance of its northern side, was called BATTERY COVE. A little more than a mile to the north of this cove is a Bay, which Mr. Hergest and Mr. Gooch examined. Good anchorage and regular foundings were found from 18 to 5 fathoms water; the bottom a fine clear sand. An excellent run of fresh water discharged itself into the Bay near a grove of cocoa-nut trees; here they landed, and found a place of interment, and a hut near half a mile from it by the side of a hill; but there were no people, nor the appearance of any having been recently there; although it was manifest that they did, on some occasions, resort to the island. This induced Mr.

Hergest to forbear cutting down any of the cocoa-nut trees as he had at first intended to do; and he procured by other means as many of the fruit as served the whole crew, with five to each person.

      The landing was but indifferent on account of the surf; but water is easily obtained.

      After ascertaining the last mentioned island to be eight miles long and two miles broad, and to be situated in south latitude 7° 53′, longitude 219° 47′ east, they took leave of these islands the next morning; and to the N.E. of the last, at the distance of about a league, they discovered another, nearly round and much smaller, with two islets lying off its S.W. point; to this was given the name of ROBERTS'S ISLAND.

      Mr. Hergest states, that during the time he was amongst these islands and at the Marquesas, they were subject to frequent heavy squalls and much rain. He compares the inhabitants of this group to those of the Marquesas, in colour and in size: but in manners, behaviour, dress, and ornaments, excepting that of their being less punctured, they more resembled the people of Otaheite and the Society islands.

      On the first information of the Dædalus having visited these islands, I concluded they had not been seen before, and to commemorate the discovery of a very worthy though unfortunate friend and fellow traveller in my more early periods of navigating these seas, I distinguished the whole group by the name of HERGEST'S ISLANDS. But I have since been informed, that these islands had been discovered and landed upon by some of the American traders, and that in fine weather the southernmost is visible from Hood's island, the most northern of the Marquesas. Hence they are considered by some as properly appertaining to that group, although neither the Spanish navigator, nor Captain Cook who visited the Marquesas after him, had any knowledge of such islands existing.

      This is the amount of all the information I have been able to collect from Mr. Hergest's papers respecting his voyage thus far; the imperfect arrangement of which offers an additional cause, if an additional cause could be wanting, to lament the untimely and melancholy fate of that valuable officer; who, in several interesting particulars in his observations on these islands, refers to documents which I have never seen, and which

would of course have enabled mc to illustrate many points and descriptions which, for that reason, I have not been able to insert.

      The unfortunate, as well as the successful adventures of persons employed on services of a public nature, being generally objects of minute inquiry, I shall conclude this chapter with the account delivered to me by Mr. New, the master of the Dædalus transport, of the melancholy fate that attended Lieutenant Hergest her commander, Mr. Gooch the astronomer, and the unfortunate seaman who was murdered with them.

      In their passage from Hergest's to the Sandwich islands there did not appear any thing worthy of remark except a strong current that set at the rate of 30 miles a day, and obliged them to stand to the eastward left they should fall to leeward of those islands. The Dædalus by this means arrived off Owhyhee, and Mr. Hergest received the orders I had left there. From thence he proceeded to the N.W. side of Woahoo, not having any expectation of finding the Discovery at that time on the south side of the island, as I had appointed. This unfortunate determination, though contrary to the orders I had given, appeared to him at the time to be right, in order to insure the most expeditious passage towards Nootka.

      In the morning of the 7th of may, the Dædalus arrived in that bay where the Resolution and Discovery had anchored in 1779: but Mr. Hergest declined anchoring there, as he considered the inhabitants of that neighbourhood to be the most savage and deceitful of any amongst those islands. For this reason he lay to, and purchased from the natives some hogs, vegetables, and a few gourds of water. In the evening he stood off shore, and desired that the inhabitants would bring a further supply of water and refreshments the next morning; but it falling calm, and the current setting the ship to the westward, it was near noon on the 11th before they regained the shore, when Mr. Hergest receded from his former wife determination, and unhappily for himself and those who fell with him, ordered the ship to be anchored. The cutter was hoisted out and veered astern for the better convenience of purchasing water from the natives, but before three casks were filled, which was soon done, he ordered the

cutter alongside, the full casks to ho taken out and replaced by empty ones: and then. accompanied as usual by Mr. Gooch. he went on shore, and another boat was hoisted out for the purpose of obtaining water: while those on board continued making purchases until near dark. At this time the cutter returned, with only five persons instead of the eight who had gone on shore in her. from whom was learned the distressing intelligence, that Mr. Hergest, Mr. Gooch. and two of the boat's crew having landed unarmed with two of the water casks to fill, their defenceless situation was perceived by the natives, who immediately attacked them, killed one of the people, and carried off the commander and the astronomer. The other being a very stout active man made his escape through a great number of these ravages, fled to the boat, and with two others landed again, with two muskets, and with the intention to rescue their officers, and to recover the body of their messmate. They soon perceived that both Mr. Hergest and Mr. Gooch were vet alive amongst a vast concourse of the inhabitants, who were stripping them, and forcing them up the hills behind the village: they endeavoured to get near the multitude, but were so assailed by stones from the crowd, who had now gained the surrounding hills, that they were under the painful necessity of retiring; and as night was fast approaching, they thought it molt advisable to return on board, that more effectual means might be resorted to on this unfortunate occasion.

      Mr. New immediately assembled all the officers, to consult with them what was best to be done. It was agreed to stand off and on with the ship during the night, and in the morning to send the cutter well manned and armed on shore, and if possible to recover their unfortunate commander and shipmates. An old chief belonging to Attowai, who had been on board since the Dædalus entered the Bay, and had been promised by Mr. Hergest a passage to his native island, went also in the boat, to assist as an interpreter, and to employ his good offices. He was first landed, and went towards the natives, of whom he demanded the absent gentlemen; on which he was informed they were both killed the preceding night. Having delivered this message, he was sent back to demand their bodies; but was told in reply, that they had both been cut

in pieces, and divided amongst seven different chiefs; at least it was so understood by those in the boat from the language and signs which the chief made use of.

      After this conversation the savages came in great numbers towards the sea side, and threw stones at the party in the boat, who fired several times and at length obliged them to retire. Finding their errand to be completely fruitless, the boat returned on board, in which the old chief re-embarked, and the vessel bore away to land him agreeably to a former promise at Attowai; but when they were about 5 or 6 leagues to leeward of Woahoo, about five in the evening, the old chief made a sudden spring overboard, and swam from the ship, which was instantly brought to, but on finding that he still continued to swirn from them, without the least inclination of returning on board, they filled their sails, and having then no business at Attowai, they made the best of their way towards Nootka, agreeably to my directions.

      On the 13th of june they made the American coast; the wind having been constantly in the N.W. quarter, they were not able to fetch higher up than the latitude of 41° 30′, from whence they beat to windward the rest of the way to Nootka, where they arrived on the 4th of july. In compliance with a letter of instructions left by the late commander of the Dædalus in his bureau, addressed to Mr. Thomas New in case of his death, Mr. New opened the dispatches addressed to me from the Lords of the Admiralty, and agreeably with the directions they contained, he delivered to Sen^r. Quadra, the commanding officer at that port, the letter therein inclosed, and addressed to him from the Spanish minister.

      Thus conclude all the matters and transactions of our voyage up to the end of the year 1792. In the following chapter I shall resume the narrative of our proceedings at Monterrey.

CHAPTER V.

Departure of Lieutenant Broughton for England — Pregress towards the Sandwich islands — Fruitless search for the islands of Los Majos — Arrive at Owhyhee — Visited by the chiefs — Anchor in Karakakooa bay — Land the cattle — Regulations adopted — Account of two English seamen residing on the island — Capture of the schooner Fair American — Character of some of the leading chiefs.

      THE preceding chapters brought to a conclusion the Various occurrences of our voyage to the end of 1792; the beginning of the following year was not marked by any thing of very particular moment. Sen^r. Quadra's benevolent disposition encouraged me again to obtrude on his goodness by requesting some black cattle and sheep, for the purpose of establishing a breed of those valuable animals in the Sandwich islands. A dozen, being as many as we could possibly take on board, were immediately provided, consisting of four cows, four ewes, two bulls, and two rams. The prospect we had of a good passage to those islands induced me to lay myself under this additional obligation, hoping by such an importation, to accomplish at once the purpose I had in contemplation; which, if effected, could not sail of being highly beneficial, not only to the resident inhabitants, but also to all future visitors.

      Notwithstanding that I was extremely anxious to get away from Monterrey that the further objects of our pursuit might re-commence, and that we might be no longer the cause of Sen^r. Quadra's detention, yet, with our utmost labours and exertions, it was not until the 6th that the several charts, drawings, letters, and other documents were in readiness to be transmitted to England.

      After this, having no further occasion for our establishment on shore, the tents, observatory, instruments, and every other article were reshipped, it being my full determination to sail with the land wind the following evening: in the interval I was honored on board with the company of Sen Quadra, Caamano, the commandant of the presidio with his lady, and most of our Spanish friends.

      In the course of the afternoon a very material alteration took place in the weather, for the first time since our arrival in this Bay. The wind blew a hard gale from the S. E. attended with heavy squalls and torrents of rain. In addition to this another circumstance concurred to detain us some time longer. The armourer of the Chatham, a most industrious and excellent workman, found an opportunity in the course of the day, with one of the Chatham's best marines, to absent themselves. The abilities and generally good conduct of the armourer, made his loss a matter of no small consequence, especially as there was no other person in our little community that was competent to fill his post. The only mode to be pursued for their recovery, was to make a proper and formal application to Sen^r. Quadra, and to Sen^r. Arguello, the commandant of the presidio. In consequence of this, these gentlemen took similar steps to those which on a former occasion had recovered a seaman belonging to the Discovery, who had attempted to make his escape. The better to insure success in this instance, a reward of twenty-five dollars for each of the deserters was offered to the soldiers, who were dispatched in every direction in search of them. The like sum was offered by Sen^r. Quadra, by the commandant, and by myself, to any person who would deliver them up, or who should be the cause of their being taken. The loss we had thus sustained, and the active exertions making to repair it, would at any rate have induced me to wait a few days for the event of our researches. The S.W. and southerly winds with succeeding calms continued, however, to prevent our failing until the 13th, when in the morning the regular sea-breeze from the N.W. prevailed.

      During this interval no tidings had been gained of the absentees, and the soldiers who had been sent in quest of them returned unsuccessful.

      Sen^r. Quadra evidently felt much distressed that so unfortunate an occurrence should take place just on the eve of our separation, and issued orders, that on their being apprehended they should be imprisoned; that they might be forwarded to me at Nootka, during any period of our remaining in these seas. And as a proof that these people had absconded without the knowledge, privity, or encouragement of any of the Spanish officers, he very obligingly offered to replace the armourer by substituting the only smith in this establishment; who, being reported to be a very good workman, was an artificer of too much importance, to persons in our situation, to be hastily declined. With great reluctance, and though contrary to my wishes, I was induced to accept the advantage of so friendly an offer, to which the urgency of the case alone could have obliged me to assent. He was accordingly received on board the Chatham, and Sen^r. Quadra's vessels as well as our own being in readiness to depart, it was agreed we should sail together, so long as our southern course answered the purpose of our respective routes, that we might continue as long as possible to benefit by each other's society.

      We now waited only for the favorable land breeze to take our departure. I consigned to the charge of Mr. Broughton the dispatches I had prepared, with orders, as far as it might depend upon himself not to admit a moment's loss of time in repairing to England; and I directed my first lieutenant, Mr. Puget, to take upon him the command of the Chatham, during the absence of Mr. Broughton.

      The night was perfectly calm; about nine o'clock on monday morning a light breeze sprung up from the eastward, with which the Discovery weighed; but, as neither the Chatham nor any of the Spanish vessels were able to move, we waited for them off point Pinos, this we passed at the distance of 2 or 3 miles, and had foundings from 38 to 55 fathoms, black sand and muddy bottom.

      The next morning we found ourselves more to the southward, and further from the shore than we expected; the wind blew a fresh breeze from the land, and we stood to the northward in quest of our friends. The Chatham joined us about nine o'clock, when our situation afforded

a good opportunity of making such observations as were required to prove the rate of the chronometers. At noon the latitude was found to be 36° 23′; Kendall's chronometer shewed 238° 18′: Arnold's No. 14, 238° 7′½; No. 176, 238° 10′¾, and Earnshaw's pocket watch, 238° 3′. In this situation the southernmost land in sight bore by compass S. 56 E.; an apparently detached piece of land like a small islet, S. 72 E.; and point Pinos N. 31 E. This point, according to our observations made on shore at Monterrey, is situated in latitude 36° 38′, longitude 238° 22′; from which it appeared that the chronometers, since they had been taken on board, had acquired the following errors, (viz.) Kendall's 13′. Arnold's No. 14, 2′ 30″; Arnold's No. 176, 5′ 45″, to the east of the truth. Earnshaw's pocket watch appeared to be correct. By these observations Kendall's had acquired the greatest error, and Earnshaw's had gone perfectly right. The great regularity of Kendall's hitherto made it difficult to account for this sudden alteration, which could be attributed to nothing but the change that had taken place in the climate on their being removed from the shore to the ship. The thermometer was found daily to vary at the observatory between mid-day and the evening, from about 72° to 40°; the excess was more, as it would sometimes rife to 76°, and fall to 31°; but this did not frequently happen, though early in the mornings it was not unusual to find the little wells we had dug skimmed over with thin flakes of ice, and the ground covered with hoar frost. On board the ship, the mean temperature of the air in which they were kept was between 54 and 60 degrees. This opinion appeared to be particularly corroborated in the instance of Kendall's watch, which evidently went nearly at its Nootka rate during our passage from thence to Monterrey; but on its being there landed, the increase and continuation of the cold appeared soon to accelerate its motion from that of gaining 11″¼ to 18½ per day. On allowing its rate of gaining at Nootka, from the time of its last coming on board at Monterrey, it was found to agree very nearly with the longitude of point Pinos, as affixed to it by our observations; and as I am perfectly satisfied of the accuracy of our observations, the difference can surely be attributed to no other cause,

than that the best of these delicate pieces of mechanism are not yet, with all the ingenious and valuable improvements that have been made on them, able to withstand, for any length of time, the transitions and vicissitudes of different climates. Mr. Arnold's two watches on board the Discovery, being of later date by some years than Mr. Kendall's, appear to have continued their rate of going more correctly, but even these felt the effect of their altered situation; Mr. Earnshaw's was the newest, and was the least sensible of the change in the climate to which it was removed. Future experience may however enable me to form other conjectures, which may tend to elucidate more fully a subject of so much importance to nautical science.

      In resuming the narrative of our proceedings it is necessary to state, that the longitude shewn by the chronometers will in future be inserted according to the Monterrey rate, until an opportunity may offer of making further observations.

      We remained off point Pinos until the evening; when, being joined by our Spanish friends, we directed our course to the southward with so light a northerly breeze, that by the next day at noon we had only reached the latitude of 36°, the land bearing by compass from N. 20 E. to S. 83 E.; the nearest shore N. E., distant about 4 leagues.

      The Active brig considerably outsailed our little squadron, and the Aransasu, the word sailer of the whole party, was by sun-set nearly out of sight astern. As neither Sen^r. Quadra nor myself wished to experience the least delay, we agreed to avail ourselves of the favorable gale from the north, and without waiting for Sen^r. Caamano in the Aransasu, to make the bed of our way. By the 18th at noon we had reached the latitude of 32° 30′, longitude 239° 14′, and the variation of the compass 12° eastwardly.

      From this station the tracks we each had to pursue began to diverge, so that by continuing together we should not only have drawn each other from the proper line of direction, but, in consequence of the superiority which the Active had in point of sailing, have necessarily occasioned a further detention to Sen^r. Quadra; who, with Mr. Broughton,

and such of our Spanish friends as could he spared from the brig, honored me with their company to partake of a parting dinner.

      The wind blew a gentle breeze from the north; the serenity of the sky and smoothness of the sea, prolonged my pleasure on this occasion until near midnight; when we exchanged our mutual good wishes, and bad our friends of the Active farewel. Amongst all that, valuable society, there was but one friend who we could reasonably hope and expect to see again, whilst the prospect of never again meeting Sen^r. Quadra and our other friends about him, was a painful consideration. To the feelings of those perusers of this journal who have experienced moments like this. I must appeal. Their recollection will enable them to conceive the sensations which, inspired by the grateful recollection of pad kindnesses, occurred in thus bidding adieu to Sen^r. Quadra; who was the main spring of a society that had produced us so much happiness, who had rendered us so many essential benefits, and whose benevolence and disinterested conduct had impressed our minds with the highest esteem and veneration. On reaching the Active, our friends took their leave: we saluted them with three cheers, which they cordially returned; and we each pursued our respective voyages with all sail set.

      Nothing worthy of notice occurred until the 21st; when Joseph Murgatroyd, one of the carpenter's crew, was in the space of about a quarter of an hour from the time he had been last seen missing. He was last observed opening the gun-room ports, and whilst so employed, had probably been induced to leek his own destruction by contriving to let himself down into the sea; since it was scarcely possible he could have met his fate there by accident. An experiment was afterwards made, by much smaller men than himself, to force themselves out of the port-holes, which was not accomplished without, great difficulty and trouble; it was however pretty evident that he must have perished that way, as he was never seen to come out of the gunroom: add to this, that as he was a good swimmer, as the wind blew only a gentle breeze, with a smooth sea, and as every thing was very quiet upon deck, it is natural to conclude, that if he had fallen

overboard, the accident must have been immediately known, and that he most likely would have been preserved.

      The weather continued dark and gloomy, with frequent showers, until noon of the 23d; when the atmosphere became less loaded and more pleasant; the observed latitude at this time was 25° 51′, the longitude, by Kendall's chronometer, 237° 37′. Our progress was so slow, that on the 24th we had reached only the latitude of 24″ 50′. The true longitude, deduced from subsequent observations, and corrected back to our quitting the coast, was at this time 236° 14′. Kendall's chronometer shewed 236° 53′; Arnold's No. 14, 236° 27′: No. 176, 236° 31′: Earnshaw's 236° 19′; and Arnold's, on board the Chatham, 236° 8′: from whence it appeared, that their respective errors continued nearly in the same ratio as our observations had shewn the day after we quitted Monterrey.

      The wind, though favorable between the N.N.E. and N.N.W., was light, and frequently funk into a calm, attended with a heavy rolling sea from between west and N.W.

      In consequence of my intention to determine the existence or nonexistence of a cluster of islands, described in the Spanish charts as lying between the 19th and 21st degrees of north latitude, and between the 221st and 225th degrees of east longitude, I had been induced to steer a very easterly course; but, suspecting that the light winds we had experienced were occasioned by our vicinity to the continent, we steered a more westerly course during the two last days, with the hope of meeting a fresher trade wind. In this I was disappointed, for instead of having a more favorable breeze, the wind veered round to the west and S.W., and so continued until saturday evening, when our latitude was 22° 10′, the true longitude 236° 23′.

      To this station the variation had gradually decreased to 8°; and for some days past we had regularly been affected by a current setting us to the south, at the rate of 7 or 8 miles per day; particularly during the preceding twenty-four hours we had been set 12 miles further south than the log shewed.

      In the course of the day some tropic birds were about the ship; and after a few hours calm in the evening, a light breeze sprang up from the S.E. which gradually veered round to the N.E. yet the N.W. swell still continued to be very heavy.

      The N.E. wind, proving to be a steady trade wind, soon increased to a fresh gale, attended with pleasant weather. On monday morning being nearly in the latitude assigned to the easternmost of the islands before mentioned, the Chatham was sent by signal to look out on the larboard beam. At noon, our observed latitude was 21° 12′, true longitude 231° 39′, and the variation of the compass 5° 31′ easterly: Kendall's chronometer (shewed the longitude to be 235° 22′, Arnold's No. 14, 234° 59′, Arnold's No. 176, 235° 1′, and Earnshaw's 234° 48′. The north-westerly swell still continued to be very heavy.

      On thursday we passed through a large quantity of the medusa villilia, like those which, in our way to the north the preceding spring, we had found occupying a much larger space in the ocean; these extended only a few leagues in the direction we were steering, and were by no means so numerous.

      The trade wind varying between the E.N.E. and N.N.E. increased to a fresh gale, and brought with it squally and unsettled weather, with some passing showers of heavy rain. Having nearly reached the situation assigned to the islands we were in quest of, though without any of the usual indications of the vicinity of land, I yet judged it expedient to reduce our sail at night to prevent the possibility of passing any land that might exist in the neighbourhood. Our latitude at sun-set 19° 54′, longitude 227° 42′. This and several following nights were passed in such a manner, as that the point of view a-head in the evening, and that a-stern the next morning, should meet in the same horizon unless intercepted by land, though even very moderately elevated. Thus we continued to proceed in search of these islands at night; and in the day time, spreading as wide as our signals could be plainly discerned.

      The weather being delightfully serene and pleasant enabled us on the 3d of february to make the following observations for the longitude.

      The variation of the compass 5° 16′ eastwardly. At this juncture we were passing over the position assigned in a chart I had received from Sen^r. Quadra, to the center of the easternmost of the islands in question. Messrs. Portlock and Dixon also had searched for them to no purpose; but as the track of these navigators seemed to have been on the northern side, our's was directed along the southern side of this supposed cluster of islands, until the 6th, when the latitude at noon was observed to be 19° 19′, the true longitude 219° 49′.

      During this search, the trade wind, having been moderate between the S. E. and N. E. attended with tolerably pleasant weather, afforded us during the day time a constant, extensive, and distinct view all around, but no indication of them, nor of the vicinity of land, was discovered; nor had I in any of my passages across this ocean, which have been many, ever passed over so vacant a space, as since our departure from

the coast of New Albion. No bird, fish, or other object, occurred to attract our attention, beside two tropic buds, one booby, about as many petrols, and three or four porpoises; these and our little consort excepted, the heavens and the ocean gave uninterrupted limits to our fight. The latter however caused us great inconvenience, by means of a very heavy and irregular swell, chiefly from the N.W. which gave the ship such a labouring uneasy motion, as to render the transacting of all sedentary business almost impossible. At the close of day there was no appearance of these islands so far as could be seen a-head, and as we had now passed some distance to the westward, I concluded they could have no existence in the neighbourhood of the spot assigned to them, and for that reason I relinquished any further search, and made the best of our way towards Owhyhee.

      On this occasion it is but just to observe. that the Spanish sea officers have no faith in the existence of these islands; the only authority which they are acquainted with for their insertion in the Spanish charts, is their having been so found in a chart of the pacific ocean, constructed many years ago by an old pilot who had frequently passed between South America and the Philippines, and whose still and observation had acquired him much reputation and credit in his profession; but as the spot in which they were placed was totally out of his path, it was generally believed by the Spanish officers that he had laid them down from the authority of others.

      The variation in the afternoon had been observed to be 5° eastwardly. The trade wind blew only a gentle breeze, and so continued until the 8th, when we had a line fresh gale; but were reduced to our topsails for the purpose of keeping company with the Chatham. The observed latitude on the 11th was 19° 34′. and the true longitude 207° 20′; the fresh. gale continued from about the N.E., the weather squally with thick mist and much rain. We however made a tolerable progress till two the next morning, when, not wishing with such uncertain weather to run our observations too close, we hauled to the wind under an easy sail to wait for day-light, when we again made sail; and at nine in the

forenoon saw the east end of Owhyhee, bearing by compass S. 60 E. distant 7 leagues.

      My intention was, that Mr. Puget in the Chatham should examine the coast of this island, from its east point southward round to Karakakooa bay; whilst we were employed on the Purvey of its shores in the opposite direction. By these means the whole coast of the island would be ascertained, with all its bays, harbours, or roadsteads; and every other information that circumstances could admit of, would thus be acquired. The Discovery was brought to, for the purpose of communicating these directions to Mr. Puget; after which we separated and pursued our respective courses.

      The observed latitude at noon was 19° 40′; at this time the east point of Owhyhee bore by compass S. 30 W., at the distance of seven miles, and was placed, by our chronometers according to Kendall's per Nootka rate, in the longitude of 205° 40′½; by the Monterrey rate 206° 49′; Arnold's No. 82, on board the Chatham, per Nootka rate, 205° 45′; per Monterrey rate 205° 18; Arnold's No. 14, per Monterrey rate, 205° 41′ 30″; No. 176, by the same rate, 205° 31′ 30″; Earnshaw's per Monterrey rate, 205° 13′ 30″; and my own last lunar observations brought forward, by Earnshaw's watch, 205° 19′ 13″. This point is placed by Captain Cook in 205° 6′, which being esteemed by me to be the true longitude shews the errors of the several chronometers during this passage.

      Our course was now directed towards the north-east point, of this island, which forms the east point of a very deep Bay. Into this we steered, as far as was prudent, to avoid being imbayed, as the wind blew a fresh gale directly on the shore; and though we were sufficiently near its southern parts to see the surf break with great violence, yet so dense was the haze in which the land was enveloped, that it was impossible to distinguish any object on shore. A low projecting point was indistinctly seen, where the breakers appeared to fall back from their northern direction; beyond ibis point they were not visible from the deck, until we drew near to the northern side of the Bay; here we brought to, about four o'clock, within two miles of the north-east point, in the hope of seeing some of the natives, but being disappointed, we

made sail off the shore, and plied during the night. The next morning, with a fresh gale at E.S.E., we sailed along the N.E. side of Owhyhee, within two or three miles of its shores; these were firm and compact, terminating mostly in steep rocky cliffs, with a few small indented bays, rendered easily accessible to their canoes by the sandy beaches that bounded them. From the rugged rocky cliffs, many streams of water fell, and discharged themselves into the ocean.

      The country, in this point of view, had a very dreary aspect; perfectly uncultivated, and nearly destitute of habitations; those which were observed were small, and thinly scattered at great distances from each other. As we advanced to the westward, the population and cultivation seemed to increase, and to keep pace with each other. About nine o'clock, a canoe was seen coming towards the ship from one of the small bays; we immediately brought to, in the hope that others would follow her example, but we were again disappointed.

      On the arrival of our visitors they, gave us to understand, that a general taboo had prevented the inhabitants coming off to us; they however had ventured to trespass on the interdiction, at the hazard of suffering death, should their transgression be ever known to any of the priests or chiefs. The taboo bad now existed some days, and in the course of a day or two more would cease. These people further informed us, that Tamaahmaah was then residing at Karakakooa, and that hogs, and the other refreshments of the island, were prohibited from being disposed of to European or American visitors, under penalty of death, for any other commodities whatever than arms and ammunition.

      This is the baneful consequence arising from the injudicious conduct of unrestrained commercial adventurers, who have thought proper to furnish these people, naturally a warlike and daring race, with a large assortment of arms and ammunition; not only rendering them, by these means, a formidable nation; but by thus absurdly and profusely out-bidding each other, bringing the generality of other European commodities into contempt and few estimation. Our visitors, however, regardless of the taboo, disposed of their cargo, consisting of

one hog, two or three fowls, some roots, and bread-fruit, seemingly much to their satisfaction, for some iron; with which they returned to the shore.

      Towards noon we arrived off a part of the northern side of Owhyhee, where the coast is composed of a cluster of remarkably high steep rugged and romantic cliffs, discharging from their naked summits many rapid cataracts into the ocean. The rushing of these impetuous torrents down the black barren surface of the rocky cliffs, contrasted with the enchanting, cultivated, and populous country to the east and west, and behind this dreary frontier, for a considerable distance up the sides of the lofty mountains, on approaching them in the offing, present a very beautiful and picturesque appearance. Nearly in the centre of these cliffs is a tolerably deep small bay, much resembling, in appearance and in most other respects, the bay in the island of St. Helena; but, unfortunately, seemed too much exposed to the sea, and the generally prevailing winds, to be an eligible situation for shipping. Off the western extremity of these cliffs lie some rocky islets, at a little distance from the land. Westward from these cliffs, the surf was observed to break with great violence near the shore, which was then within two miles of us; at this moment we suddenly arrived in 7 fathoms water, the west point of the island lying S. 70 W., at the distance of nine miles. The trade wind blew a strong gale, attended by a very heavy, confused, irregular sea, probably occasioned by the violence of the wind, and an uneven bottom. As this appearance extended all the way to the west end of the island, on finding ourselves in foundings of 7 fathoms we hauled a little off the shore, and did not again reach the bottom; though at the rate we were then going we were not likely to have gained soundings, in much deeper water.

      The western part of the land, from this situation, falls in a gradual descent from the base of the mountains, and forms an extensive plain towards the water-side, which seemed to be in a state of high cultivation, and abounded with the habitations of the natives. We passed the west point at the distance of about a league, close on the verge of the agitated water; this I suspected to arise from a very sudden decrease in its

depth, but could not ascertain the fact, as the wind blew with too much violence, and the agitation of the sea was too great, to venture on a more minute examination, either with the ship or the boats; and as the adjacent shores afford no shelter for vessels, there can be no necessity for approaching within a league of them.

      Having passed this point, situated, by our corrected survey, in latitude 20° 18′, longitude 204°, we hauled into Toeaigh bay, and at seven o'clock anchored about seven miles to the south of the point above mentioned, in 41 fathoms water, brown sandy bottom, with small pieces of coral.

      The night proved very boisterous, attended with very heavy gusts and flurries of wind directly off the land: in one of these, about three in the morning, we drove from the bank, but as it was my design to acquire every information that could be obtained respecting this Bay, the anchor was weighed, and we turned up into it, against a very strong S.E. gale.

      As the day advanced, it moderated, and the weather became serene and pleasant. The adjacent shores, forming the north-western part of the Bay, seemed to be very fruitful, whilst the number of habitations indicated them to be well peopled; yet none of the natives ventured near us. As we considered the taboo to be at an end, I began to be apprehensive that the shyness of the inhabitants originated from some more serious cause; about ten o'clock however a canoe was seen paddling towards the ship; we immediately brought to, and on her coming alongside, we were informed by those in her that they belonged to Kahowmotoo, who was then residing at a village, on an estate of his, in the bottom of the Bay, named Toeaigh; off which there was good anchorage, and excellent water easily to be procured. These people, without the least hesitation, said that the reason of our not having been visited before was, that the whole of the island was under a very strict taboo, that prohibited the inhabitants from using their canoes, or quitting the shore by any other means; but that the rank and consequence of their master Kahowmotoo, authorized him to dispense with the restrictions on the present occasion; as he entertained hopes, that

the vessel in sight was the same in which his favorite servant Terehooa had embarked; he had therefore sent them to make the necessary inquiries, and in case his expectations should be confirmed, a present of a hog and some vegetables was in the canoe for Terehooa; whose gratitude for such a mark of remembrance was instantly testified, by the tears that flowed on his receiving the message. This was accompanied by a pressing request, that I would stand in and anchor off Kahowmotoo's village, where I should be supplied with every refreshment the island afforded, as soon as the taboo was at an end; which had now existed four days, but would intirely cease at sun-rise the day after the next.

      I had not the least objection to accept this invitation, and a breeze favoring my design we steered for the village of Toeaigh. Mr. Whidbey, who was in the cutter founding for the best anchorage, soon made the signal for an eligible situation, where, about half past two, we anchored in 25 fathoms water on a bottom of fine brown sand and mud: the points of the bay bore by compass N. 36 W. and S. 31 W.; the morai, which is also conspicuous in pointing out this station, N. 67 E.; and the watering place at the distance of a mile and a quarter, being the nearest shore, S. 87 E. On founding round the ship, about half a cable's length to the S.W. of us was found a very small patch of coral rocks, where the water was only 10 fathoms in depth, but increased suddenly to 20 fathoms all around it. On the opposite side, however, was clear good anchorage for near a mile, where many vessels might ride without inconvenience from the bottom, though nevertheless exposed to the violence of the winds and sea between the limits above mentioned, comprehending 113° in the western quarter.

      Soon after the ship had anchored, our old acquaintance Kahowmotoo paid us a visit, and brought with him half a dozen very fine hogs, and a handsome supply of vegetables. Notwithstanding that I took an early opportunity to acquaint Kahowmotoo that arms and ammunition were hill tabooed, who seemed much to regret the continuance of these restrictions; yet it did not appear to influence his hospitality; as he assured me, that if I would remain a few days at Toeaigh, we

should be supplied with every refreshment in his power to procure, and that the promise he had formerly made, should now be punctually performed.

      After dinner I went with him on shore, to take a view of the watering place; it is situated in a small sandy bay, where, over a space of twenty yards of rugged rocks and stones, a fine stream empties itself, whose water is easily to be procured by landing the casks on the sandy beach, and having the water brought in smaller vessels to fill them; a service the natives will readily perform for a trivial reward. This made me regret the absence of the Chatham; as in the immediate neighbourhood of the water the country did not appear to be very populous, we might each have supplied our wants without being teazed and pestered with a numerous throng of the natives, whom we should most likely meet with in the more inhabited parts of the island, and which on such occasions had frequently proved very inconvenient.

      Kahowmotoo strongly urged my remaining a few days at Toeaigh; where he would supply us with refreshments, and would afterwards accompany us to another place of his called Ti-ah-ta-tooa, lying between this Bay and Karakakooa. This he represented as a small bay affording good anchorage; water, according to his account, was a scarce commodity there, but all kinds of refreshments were in the greatest abundance, and were perfectly at our command. To these solicitations I in some measure consented, by promising to stay the next day, in the expectation of not only deriving some supplies for ourselves, but of procuring some provender for the cattle and sheep; which, in consequence of the inferior quality of the hay obtained at Monterrey, were almost starved. To this cause I attributed the unfortunate losses we had sustained in our passage, amounting to three rams, two ewes, a bull and a cow. These were serious misfortunes, and in a great measure disappointed the hopes I had entertained, from the importation of these valuable animals into the several islands of the pacific ocean. Still however I flattered myself with the expectation of succeeding in Owhyhee, by leaving the remaining bull, with the rest of the cows, under the protection of Tamaahmaah, who I expected would meet me at Karakakooa, to receive, and insure as far as possible, the preservation of the ani-

mals I had on board. To Kahowmotoo, who had taken the greatest care of the goats I had presented him with on a former occasion, and of their produce since my last visit, I gave a ram, two ewes, and an ewe lamb that had been born on our passage. On his being informed that ad the rest were designed for Tamaahmaah, he strenuously recommended their being landed at this place, it being highly necessary that they should have pasture as soon as possible, especially as Tamaahmaah had very extensive possessions in the immediate neighbourhood, where, he affirmed, great care would be taken of them. I should gladly have subscribed to his judicious advice, but the shortness of our acquaintance did not authorize me to place implicit confidence in all the assertions of Kahowmotoo, particularly in his declarations of being the most intimate and sincere friend of Tamaahmaah; for should these hereafter have proved to be false, it might possibly have caused the total destruction of the animals, or have been the occasion of commotions, or other unhappy disputes. This determined me to deliver them myself into the hands of Tamaahmaah, for whom they were originally intended.

      During the day, a gentle refreshing breeze blew into the Bay from the westward; but soon after sun-set, a gale suddenly arose from the eastward, attended with very heavy gusts, and continued until day-light the next morning, when it fell calm, and the weather resumed a pleasant degree of serenity, attended as before with a gentle refreshing breeze from the westward.

      This morning, agreeably to his appointment, Kahowmotoo came on board, for the purpose of accompanying me to his habitation on shore. His visit was rendered still more acceptable by his presenting me with sixteen very fine hogs, a large assortment of vegetables, and a supply of green food for the cattle. Arms and ammunition now ceased to be fought after, and he seemed very highly pleased and fully recompenced on receiving about two yards of red cloth, and a small piece of printed linen, with a few beads and other trivial articles for his favorite ladies. Of these he had no less than four, in the character of wives, who (he said) were waiting on shore with much anxiety to see me; as the taboo, though at an end as it respected some particulars, was still in force as to

the women embarking in canoes; such of our female visitors, as had been induced to favor us with their company, had therefore been obliged to have recourse to swimming for that purpose.

      The name of the village Toeaigh was by us extended to the Bay, (which is the same that had been called by Captain King Toeayahha bay,) since the natives give no distinctive name to any part of the ocean that washes the Chores of their islands. Such bays, coves, &c. as are so distinguished, having been named by their European visitors from the contiguous villages or districts.

      Toeaigh is situated in a grove of cocoa-nut trees, just behind a sandy beach. A reef of coral rocks, extending thence about three quarters of a mile into the sea, rendered it inaccessible to our boats in a direct line, but we landed very commodiously in a narrow channel, between the reef and the shore, near the morai, to the S.E. of the beach, from whence we had about two miles to walk to the habitation of Kahowmotoo.

      We could, I believe, have gone much further with the boats in that channel, but as the navigation was intricate and tiresome, I preferred the walk, and attended by the corporal and six marines, we proceeded along the beach; leaving the boats, properly manned and armed, in readiness to support us in case of any treacherous or hostile behaviour. These precautions however appeared to have been intirely unnecessary, as nothing but the most civil, attentive, and friendly deportment was experienced from all classes of the people. The village consisted only of straggling houses, of two classes; those appropriated to the residence of the inhabitants were small, mean, miserable huts; but the others, allotted to the purposes of shading, building, and repairing their canoes, were excellent in their kind; in these occupations several people were busily employed, who seemed to execute their work with great neatness and ingenuity. In about the middle of the village is a reservoir of salt water, nearly in the centre of a large inclosure, made by walls of mud and stones. Between these walls and the reservoir the whole space is occupied by shallow earthen pans, of no regular size or shape, nor placed in any order or degree of elevation. The reservoir is separated by a bank or small portion of the sandy beach from the ocean, and had no visible communication with it,

but was apparently a stagnated standing pool, covered with a muddy scum, of a yellowish green colour. This, the natives say, it always bears, and without being replenished by them from the sea constantly affords a sufficient quantity of excessively salt water, for supplying the numerous pans; the exposure of which to the influence of the sun, soon causes evaporation and crystallization. The crystals are then carefully taken up; and if found dirty from the cracking or breaking of the pans, which frequently want repair, or by the falling of rain whilst making, they are washed clean in sea-water and dried. This is their process in making salt, which is always white in proportion to the care bestowed in gathering it. They have large quantities, equal in colour and in quality to any made in Europe, but the crystals are much larger. The quantity of salt obtained, might be supposed, from the appearance of this salt-pond, to be produced rather from the saline quality of the surrounding earth, in which it is contained, than purely from the sea-water. Yet, its being not more than thirty yards from the sea-side, makes it probable that the oceanic water penetrates into it, through the loose sandy beach that separates it from the sea, and that the richness of the fluid may be produced from both those causes.

      Paying our respects to Kahowmotoo's wives, and inspecting this saltpond, occupied most of our time, and claimed the most of our attention. Having rendered our visit pleasant to the former, by distributing such articles as we knew they held in high estimation, we returned towards the boats, accompanied by the chief and his ladies, and attended by the natives, who conducted themselves in the most orderly and respectful manner. They brought us cocoa-nuts as we passed along, and seemed studious to afford us any little service or civility, without being the least troublesome; and strictly conformed themselves to the orders of their chief, who directed that few only should advance near us, and that the crowd should be seated at a distance, in whatever direction we should pass.

      On reaching the boats, I requested that Kahowmotoo would accompany us on board to dinner, but in consequence of the taboo, I had no idea of soliciting that favor from the ladies; they however entertained very

different notions, particularly Kahowmotoo's favorite, Na-ma-han-na, who contended, that although the taboo prohibited their embarking in canoes belonging to Owhyhee, it could not possibly extend to the boats of those who totally disregarded their laws and restrictions. This ingenious mode of reasoning seeming to meet Kahowmotoo's concurrence, we soon embarked, leaving Mr. Menzies, who had been of our party, on shore, in pursuit of new vegetable productions. He returned in the evening, after receiving much hospitable civility from the natives,

      Kuhowmoloo went on shore with his lady in one of our boats. On its return a message was brought from Tianna, desiring to be informed, who we were? adding, that if we were his friends, he would make all possible haste to visit us; but, as it would be late on account of his distance before he should be able to arrive, in order that he might be admitted on board in the dark, he would carry in the bow of his canoe a large fire, as a signal by which he might be known. He accordingly arrived about four o'clock the next morning, just as we were getting under sail. In his canoe were half a dozen line hogs, these he desired might be taken on board, and said, he had many others on the road, that would follow the ship to the southward. Kahowmotoo, attended by his favorite wife, agreeably to a preconcerted signal with him of siring a gun on our departure, came on board to fulfil his engagement of conducting us to Tyea-ta-tooa. The wind proved very variable, not only in direction but force. The weather sometimes was perfectly calm, at others we had violent gusts from the land, so that it was not until the evening that we were abreast of the south point of this bay, forming the western extremity of Owhyhee. The weather continued squally, with thunder, lightning and rain. A little before it was dark, a brig and a sloop were seen in the offing. From the natives we learned that these were the Chatham, and the Jackall trader, under the orders of Mr. Brown of the Butterworth. We immediately made towards them, and as they seemed to be under little sail, soon expected to join our consort. But, to our great astonishment, next morning, notwithstanding the night had been mostly calm, we found ourselves at least 9 or 10 leagues from the land, and had lost sight of both vessels. A fresh breeze from the N.E. during the morning, carried

us at the rate of 3 or 4 miles an hour, directly toward; the land, yet we did not appear to approach its shores; and at noon its nearest part, being about the south point of Toeaigh bay, bore E. by N. 10 leagues distant. The observed latitude was 19° 42′. The north-east wind was soon afterwards succeeded by a calm.

      The morning of the 18th brought the two vessels again in sight, and towards noon the Chatham was sufficiently near us to receive a visit from Mr. Puget; from whom I learned, that he had traced the shores on the S. E. side of Owhyhee from its call to its south point, at the distance from one to three miles of the shore, without finding any place that presented a probability of anchorage; and if foundings were to be had, they must exist upon an open coast, exposed to the prevailing winds, where so violent a surf broke on the shores, that any communication with the land, by such means as we possessed, would have been impossible. From the south point of the island, their examination was not attended with that minuteness which was necessary to determine the object I had in view. This it seems had been occasioned by baffling winds, and a current setting the Chatham some distance from the land to the northward. That part which required the mod minute survey lies between the south point and Karakakooa, where some of the traders are said to have discovered a more eligible situation for the reception of shipping, than Karakakooa affords; on this report I placed little reliance, but as I expected to have a future opportunity of ascertaining the fact, it was of little importance on the present occasion. Mr. Puget informed me also, that I should find Karakakooa a more formidable place than I expected, as he had understood from those in the Jackall who had visited it, that it was by no means a desirable flopping place for small vessels; since Tamaahmaah had procured from the several traders a number of cannon, with a proper assortment of ammunition. That these cannon were planted, and in some measure protected by stone walls, thrown up by the natives along the beach in the Bay before his houses; situated in the same place where the habitations of the priests were destroyed, after the unfortunate death of Captain Cook.

      Calms and light baffling winds detained us in this inactive situation, which was rendered extremely unpleasant by a heavy irregular swell, and by oppressively hot sultry weather. A circumstance now occurred that contributed to make me infinitely more dissatisfied with this irksome detention from the shore. The only bull that remained, and a cow that had brought forth a dead calf, were no longer able to stand on their legs, and it was evident, that if a speedy opportunity did not offer itself for relieving them by sending them on shore, their lives could not possibly be preserved. The loss, particularly of the bull, would have been a cruel disappointment to my wishes; but as favorable circumstances often take place when least expected, so it was on this occasion.

      In the afternoon of the 19th we were visited by many canoes, though at the distance of 8 or 9 leagues from the land. In one of these was a chief named Crymamahoo, half brother to Tamaahmaah, and chief of the district of Ahiedo. To him and to his friends I made such presents as were considered by Kahowmotoo highly suitable to his rank, and which were accepted with marks of great approbation and content: this induced me to hope, that by his good offices I should be enabled to get these poor animals conveyed to the shore. As his canoe was sufficiently large and roomy, I requested he would consent to their being put into it, but to my great surprize a thousand evasions and excuses were immediately started. Anxious for the future advantages these people would derive by the propagation of these animals, I probably discovered much earnestness, whilst endeavouring to prevail with Crymamahoo to lend me his assistance, in securing to himself and countrymen so important a benefit. This he certainly perceived, but possessing no desire to oblige, nor any patriotic zeal, he was only studious to turn my intreaties to his own particular advantage. After Kahowmotoo had anxiously interfered, but with the same success, I offered Crymamahoo (well knowing that avarice is a predominant passion with many of these islanders) a moderate recompence only, for allowing his canoe to perform this service. He instantly waved all his former objections, and the bull and cow were soon comfortably placed in his canoe, in which there were some vegetables that the bull ate, seemingly with much appetite; this gave me great pleasure, as I

was now in hopes that he would soon recover by the help of proper nourishing food, which the shore abundantly supplied.

      The next morning we had again increased our distance from Owhyhee; but towards noon, with a light breeze from the south-westward, we made all sail for the island. As we approached we were met by several large and small canoes, laden with the several productions of the country, which were exchanged by the natives in the most honest and civil manner, for our various articles of traffic; amongst these, red and blue woollen cloths, with printed linens, seemed the commodities in the highest estimation. Beads and other trinkets were accepted as presents, but were considered as unworthy any return.

      Amongst our numerous visitors was Tamaahmaah's eldest son, and presumptive heir to the sovereignty of Owhyhee. He was a boy about nine years of age; possessing a shrewd and lively appearance.

      In return for the presents I had made him, he presented me on leaving the ship with three or four hogs, and promised me a further supply in the morning.

      By this time we had nearly reached Tyahtatooa. Mr. Whidbey was dispatched in the cutter to examine the anchorage, as in the event of its being found superior to that of Karakakooa, I purposed giving Tyahtatooa the preference for the transacting of all our material business before we proceeded to the other place, where in case of any disagreement with the inhabitants, we might be much inconvenienced by the cannon, of which they were said to be possessed.

      A calm succeeded the rising of the sun. This continuing until ten in the forenoon, we were again driven a considerable distance from the land; but a S.W. breeze then springing up, enabled us to steer towards Tyahtatooa.

      About noon I was honored with the presence of Tamaahmaah, the king of Owhyhee, whole approach had been announced some time before his arrival.

      Not only from Captain King's description, but also from my own memory, as far as it would serve me, I expected to have recognized my former ac-

quaintance by the most savage countenance we had hitherto seen amongst these people; but I was agreeably surprized in finding that his riper years had softened that stern ferocity which his younger days had exhibited, and had changed his general deportment to an address characteristic of an open, cheerful, and sensible mind; combined with great generosity, and goodness of disposition. An alteration not unlike that I have before had occasion to notice in the character of Pomurrey at Otaheite.

      Tamaahmaah came on board in a very large canoe, accompanied by John Young, an English seaman, who appeared to be not only a great favourite, but to possess no small degree of influence with this great chief. Terrehooa, who had been sent to deliver the bull and cow to the king, was also of the party, and informed me that the cow had died in her passage to the island, but that the bull arrived safe, and was lodged in a house where he ate and drank heartily.

      After the usual ceremonies and assurances of friendship had passed between Tamaahmaah and myself, he said that his queen, with several of his friends and relations were in the canoe alongside, and requested they might be admitted on board. This was instantly granted, and I was introduced to her majesty, who we had previously understood was the daughter of Kahowmotoo, by his favorite wife now on board, Namahanna. The meeting of the daughter and her parents sufficiently indicated the relation, and the affection that subsisted between them. She appeared to be about sixteen, and undoubtedly did credit to the choice and taste of Tamaahmaah, being one of the finest women we had yet seen on any of the islands. It was pleasing to observe the kindness and fond attention, with which on all occasions they seemed to regard each other; and though this mode of behaviour in public would be considered as extravagant in the polished circles of society, yet to us, so far removed from the civilized world, the profusion of tenderness was very admissible, and could not be regarded without a warmth of satisfaction at thus witnessing the happiness of our fellow creatures; though so far behind us in that state of civilization, from which alone we imagine, the essential comforts and happiness of life can be derived.

      The sole object of this visit was to invite and intreat our proceeding to Karakakooa: to their solicitations I replied, that our boat was examining Tyahtatooa, and that on her return I should determine. With this answer they were perfectly satisfied, but observed, that I should not find it so convenient as Karakakooa.

      I was much pleased with the decorum and general conduct of this royal party. Though it consisted of many, yet not one solicited even the most inconsiderable article; nor did they appear to have any expectation of receiving presents. They seemed to be particularly cautious to avoid giving the lead cause for offence; but no one more so than the king himself, who was so scrupulous, as to enquire when and where it was proper for him to be seated. The inhabitants, who had assembled round the ships, were by this time very numerous; on being denied their requests to be admitted on board, which was observed towards all but the principal chiefs, they remained perfectly quiet in their canoes, and in a most orderly manner carried on an honed and friendly intercourse.

      The demand, amounting to clamour, for arms and ammunition, which on our first arrival seemed at that time to be so formidable an obstacle to our procuring refreshments; appeared now to be intirely done away, whilst the cordial manner in which we had been received and treated, the profusion of good things we had purchased at an easy rate, and the value attached to our articles of traffic, impressed me with a more favorable idea of the character of these people than that which had been recently given to the world.

      Being determined that nothing should be wanting on my part to preserve the harmony and good understanding that seemed to have taken place between us; and having learned from Young that our royal visitors did not entertain the most distant idea of accepting any thing from me until they had first set the example; I considered this a good opportunity to manifest our friendly disposition towards them, by presents suitable to their respective ranks and situations. In the hope that by such an early compliment I should confirm, or perhaps heighten the favorable opinion of us, that they already seemed to have imbibed. Accordingly, such articles were distributed as I knew were likely, and (as

they afterwards proved to be) highly acceptable to the whole party. Permission was now requested for the friends and relations, who were alongside in their canoes, to be suffered to visit the ship. I easily comprehended what was the real object of the request, which soon became evident by the behaviour of these new visitors, who, of both sexes, and different ages, instantly found their way aft, and nearly filled the cabin: until Tamaahmaah desired that no more should be admitted into the ship; and then demanded of me, if it were my intention to make those now on board any presents? On his being answered in the affirmative, he undertook the distribution himself, and was so œconomical as to give me several opportunities to make some addition to his dispensations, which were more bountifully bestowed on some of the men, than on the generality of the women. The ladies however were no losers on this occasion. The deficiency of Tamaahmaah's attention being otherways amply supplied, produced no small degree of mirth, in which Tamaahmaah bore a very considerable part. This distribution being finished, and the whole party made very happy, the king, in addition to what he had before received, was presented with a scarlet cloak, that reached from his neck to the ground, adorned with tinsel lace, trimmed with various coloured gartering tape, with blue ribbons to tie it down the front. The looking glasses being placed opposite to each other displayed at once the whole of his royal person: this filled him with rapture, and so delighted him that the cabin could scarcely contain him. His extasy produced capering, and he soon cleared the cabin of many of our visitors, whose numbers had rendered it very hot and unpleasant. He himself soon followed, and after strutting some little time upon deck, he exposed himself in the most conspicuous places, seemingly with the greatest indifference, though in reality for the sole purpose of attracting the admiration and applause of his subjects. The acclamations that his appearance produced from the surrounding multitude were evidently gratifying to his vanity; yet his joy and satisfaction were incomplete until two in the afternoon, when Mr. Whidbey returned, and reported, that although the anchorage at Tyahtatooa seemed convenient, yet it was

infinitely more exposed than any part of the anchorage at Karakakooa.

      I had by this time understood that the account of Tamaahmaah's cannon and fortification was intirely void of truth; and as there could be no hesitation, which of the two situations to prefer, from Mr. Whidbey'; representation, we steered immediately for Karakakooa. Tamaahmaah soon became acquainted with my determination. The high degree of satisfaction he expressed on this occasion was not easily to be described, as I could not recollect in any former instance ever to have noticed sensations like his, in the countenance or behaviour of any person.

      The breeze was too gentle, and the day was too far advanced to reach Karakakooa before night; when the general happiness of our party received some small degree of cheek.

      Notwithstanding the present harmony, and the prospect of its continuance, I considered it highly important not to relax in any of the precautions I had taken on former occasions; but to be most vigilantly on our guard, and to watch with a jealous eye over the behaviour of these ambitious chiefs. Had I permitted any of them to have slept on board, which they are very fond of doing, our caution would naturally have lessened, by a continuance of their then docile behaviour, and had one been admitted to this indulgence, many others could not, without giving great offence, have been refused. Their numbers might thus have increased beyond expectation, and by distributing themselves unobserved in different parts of the ship, a favorable opportunity might have been seized, had they been so inclined, when we least expected danger, to carry any ambitious project, into execution. Having uniformly adhered to the maxim, that "prevention is better than punishment," I determined in no instance whatever, so far as it was in our power, to suffer the least temptation to be laid in their way, either in and about the ship, or in any of our transactions with them on shore. On this occasion however a difficulty arose, by Kahowmotoo having remained on board three nights successively. After explaining that this would not have happened, had not the ship been unavoidably driven to a great

distance from the land, the whole party appeared pretty well satisfied, and about dark retired to the shore in high spirits, and in extremely good humour, some of them having taken their grog and wine very cheerfully.

      By seven the next morning we were abreast of Karakakooa bay, from whence, and the adjacent shores, we were visited by a vast concourse of people, who brought in their canoes the greatest abundance of refreshments, and who seemed to be as eager to exchange them for our articles of traffic, as on the first discovery of these islands. But as we were well stored with such good things, I directed that no more should be purchased until the ship was properly secured. This was effected by noon; the best bower anchor lying to the S.S.W. in 22 fathoms, and the small one E.N.E., in 12 fathoms water, soft sandy bottom. The points of the Bay lying S. 5 W. and N. 87 W. distant from Kakooa the nearest shore, about the length of a cable and half.

      This village as already stated, we found to be the residence of Tamaahmaah; from whence, before the ship was well secured, eleven large canoes put off from the shore with great order, and formed two equal sides of an obtuse triangle. The largest canoe being in the angular point, was rowed by eighteen paddles on each side; in this was his Owhyhean majesty, dressed in a printed linen gown, that Captain Cook had given to Terreoboo; and the most elegant feathered cloak I had yet seen, composed principally of beautiful bright yellow feathers, and reaching from his shoulders to the ground on which it trailed. On his head he wore a very handsome helmet, and made altogether a very magnificent appearance. His canoe was advanced a little forward in the procession, to the actions of which the other ten strictly attended, keeping the most exact and regular time with their paddies, and inclining to the right or left agreeably to the directions of the king, who conducted the whole business with a degree of adroitness and uniformity, that manifested a knowledge of such movements and manoeuvre far beyond what could reasonably have been expected. In this manner he paraded round the vessels, with a slow and solemn motion. This not only added a great dignity to the procession, but gave time to the crowd of canoes alongside to get

out of the way. He now ordered the ten canoes to draw up in a line under our stern, whilst, with the utmost exertions of his paddlers, he rowed up along the starboard side of the ship; and though the canoe was going at a very great rate, she was in an instant stopped, with that part of the canoe where his majesty was standing immediately opposite the gangway.

      He instantly ascended the side of the ship, and taking hold of my hand, demanded, if we were sincerely his friends ? To this I answered in the affirmative; he then said, that he understood we belonged to King George, and asked if he was likewise his friend? On receiving a satisfactory answer to this question, he declared that he was our firm good friend; and, according to the custom of the country, in testimony of the sincerity of our declarations we saluted by touching noses. He then presented me with four very handsome feathered helmets, and ordered the ten large canoes that were under the stern to come on the starboard side. Each of these contained nine very large hogs, whilst a fleet of smaller canoes, containing a profusion of vegetables, were ordered by him to deliver their cargoes on the opposite side. This supply was more than we could possibly dispose of; some of the latter he was prevailed upon to reserve; but although our decks, as well as those of the Chatham, were already encumbered with their good things, he would not suffer one hog to be returned to the shore.

      The remaining live stock I had on board, consisting of five cows, two ewes and a ram, were sent on shore in some of his canoes; these were all in a healthy state though in low condition, and as I flattered myself the bull would recover, I had little doubt of their succeeding to the utmost of my wishes. I cannot avoid mentioning the pleasure I received, in the particular attention paid by Tamaahmaah to the placing of these animals in the canoes. This business was principally done by himself; after which he gave the strictest injunctions to his people who had the charge of them, to pay implicit obedience to the directions of our butcher, who was sent to attend their landing. At the departure of these canoes, I was unacquainted with the extent of Tamaahmaah's intended compliment. In addition to his magnificent present of provisions, other ca-

noes were now ordered alongside, from which a large quantity of cloth, mats, and other articles of their own manufacture, were delivering into the ship; but we were so much incommoded, that there was no possibility of taking care of these valuables, and on promising to receive them on a future day, the king permitted them to be returned to the shore, giving particular charge to one of his attendants, to whom they were intrusted, to be very careful of them, as they belonged to me, and not to himself.

      This present, though not accompanied by the elegant entertainments that followed those made by Fenow and Powlahow to Captains Cook and Clerke at the Friendly islands, was however highly worthy of a generous and noble mind; especially when the manner is adverted to, in which it was made, as a token of the sincerity of the king's wishes and desire to establish, upon a firm and permanent basis, our mutual good understanding and harmony; and possibly, in some measure, as a requital for the service I had rendered his country in the introduction of the sheep and cattle. On this score, however, I soon convinced him that I required no return; as in so doing I only complied with the directions of my sovereign, in his humane and friendly disposition towards them, by adding as much as was in my power to their comfort and happiness.

      These transactions did not pass unobserved by Kahowmotoo, who strictly attended to every occurrence. He appeared to be much rejoiced at the introduction of the sheep and cattle on the island, yet he could not refrain from observing, that he considered it a very unequal distribution, to give all the large cattle to Tamaahmaah, and none to himself, Tianna, or other principal chiefs. In reply to these observations, I pointed out that I had already done Tamaahmaah an injustice, by giving him, Kahowmotoo, the sheep originally designed for the king. That, under this consideration, he ought to be perfectly contented; and as there was a probability of my returning, that I should endeavour to bring with me a supply of those, and very likely some other useful animals, by which I should have it in my power to oblige him, and the rest of our friends in Owhyhee. Kahowmotoo paid particular attention to this conversation, and seemed to be tolerably well satisfied; which gave me hopes that I

should be able to steer a middle course between these jealous chiefs; but whilst we were at dinner, another impediment occurred by the arrival of Tianna.

      On his entering the cabin, I again recognized the identical Tamaahmaah I had known some years before, by the savage austerity and gloom that was now diffused over the countenance of that chief. Tianna was nevertheless received by me with due civility and cordiality, which, by the increased sullenness of the king's countenance, seemed greatly to augment his dislike to the presence of our new visitor. Tianna presented me with a helmet, and desired that I would order some hogs, which were in the canoes that had attended him, to be taken into the ship. These proved to be fifteen of the finest animals of this description I had ever seen at any of these islands; but, in consequence of the numbers already on board, I was under the necessity of declining them, which could only be done under a promise of receiving them, as soon as our stock on board should be exhausted. With this assurance Tianna was perfectly contented; but it awakened the envious disposition of Kahowmotoo, who contended, that he was not treated with the friendship I had professed towards him, since twenty very fine hogs of his had been returned unconditionally. Whilst I was endeavouring to pacify him, by stating that I had no other intention than to accept his kind and friendly present, the instant the animals could be received on board; the king, who since Tianna's appearance had sat in the most sullen silence, and had not uttered a single word, replied with some warmth, that I had no occasion for hogs, or other productions of Owhyhee, from Kahowmotoo, Tianna, or any other chief, as he had many more to supply our wants, when those which he had presented were exhausted. Under these circumstances of rivalship, it became no easy matter to ascertain and pursue a line of conduct, which should be equally agreeable and accommodating to the bountiful dispositions of these contending chiefs.

      I was however fully determined on the measures to be pursued; to pay my principal court to Tamaahmaah, as the king of the whole island, and to treat the other chiefs with a due degree of respect and attention. And

though, at first, this sort of conduct might occasion some dissatisfaction, yet I entertained no doubt that it would soon wear away.

      After this discussion on the subject of pigs and poultry was brought to a conclusion, the king had a short, though serious, conversation with Tianna; the subject matter we did not rightly comprehend, but we understood it to respect his coming from the north-west part of the island without the king's knowledge or permission. On this being settled, some jokes passed between them, when the latter gradually resumed his usual cheerfulness, and harmony seemed to be again re-established on all sides.

      Tamaahmaah understanding that I intended to erect the tents and observatory on shore, gave me the strongest assurance that no injury nor offence should take place, provided we would subscribe to such regulations as he should point out, tending to the preservation of that harmony which so happily existed at the present moment.

      In consequence of the convenience with which we could lie near to that part of the shore where the tents and observatories of the Resolution and Discovery were erected in the year 1779, on their unfortunate visit to this island, I preferred that station to any other part of the bay, for the services we had now to perform. Here, those whose business required their residence on shore, would be fully protected by the ship against any surprize or attack from the natives of the country. But this situation we could not immediately occupy, as it was part of the consecrated ground of the morai, which it was unlawful for us to enter during the continuance of the periodical taboo that was to commence this evening at sunset, and to end at sun rise of the 24th; during which interval there could be no communication between the shore and the ship: but as soon as the interdiction should cease, the king promised to return on board, after issuing his orders and injunctions that our party should be properly received, and sufficiently guarded.

      The whole of the next day we remained in the most perfect silence; not a canoe was seen afloat, excepting a few that went out of the Bay to take fish. This degree of quiet was a very agreeable change, and a great relief to us, having the preceding day been almost stunned by the clamour and intolerable noise of near three thousand people of both

sexes, in their canoes, or swimming about the vessels. Much to their credit, however, it was in this circumstance only that their company was unpleasant; for they conducted themselves with great honesty, and in every other respect behaved with the greatest civility and good humour.

      On our passage from the coast of America, we had reason to believe that the main mast was materially defective; a fish was here put on, that reached from the main deck to the upper part of the cheek, and such other repairs were undertaken as the rigging, sails, &c. required.

      Agreeably to his promise Tamaahmaah, attended by Young, repaired on board immediately after sun rise on the 24th. He informed me, that all the necessary directions respecting our tents, &c. were left with persons properly authorized to take charge of them, and that they might be sent on shore whenever I pleased. This was instantly done under the care of Mr. Whidbey; and soon after breakfast, accompanied by the king, Mr. Puget, and some of the officers, I went on shore with a guard of six marines to be left for the protection of our party there. I was made very happy by finding that the presence of such a guard had not been in the least necessary; as the person appointed by Tamaahmaah, under the immediate directions of Young who had accompanied Mr. Whidbey, had conducted himself with the greatest propriety, and had acted in every respect so very conformably to Mr. Whidbey's instructions, that a guard on shore seemed almost an unnecessary precaution. In point of dignity, however, if not of security, I considered such formalities as indispensable; but being well aware of the avidity with which muskets and ammunition were here sought after, I did not lead them into any temptation by sending on shore any spare small arms, or the field pieces, left such a valuable booty might stimulate them to a breach of that integrity, which at present seemed to regulate all their actions. Yet, as I did not think it prudent to place unlimited confidence in the sincerity of their professions, the field pieces were mounted on the quarter deck in readiness for action, either in that situation, or to be transported to the shore at a moment's notice. The guns were all shotted, plenty of ammunition was at hand, and a small anchor and hawser laid out for a spring on the cable. Four centinels were

always at their posts, with a certain number of small arms kept constantly loaded, and every man in the ship was at all times ready to fly to quarters. These precautions did not pass unregarded by Tamaahmaah; who, in the confidence of our friendship, instead of being displeased, or apprehending any danger from the occasion, highly applauded the measures that were taken; as they would effectually prevent the ill disposed part of his people from planning or attempting any enterprize to our prejudice. I learned from him that he had issued the strictest injunctions to prevent any offence, or cause of complaint, arising from any improper conduct, or behaviour in his subjects, and that he entertained no doubt of their being punctually attended to and obeyed.

      The king observed, there were persons in the neighbourhood, who were servants and vassals belonging, not only to the chiefs of the other islands who were his inveterate enemies, but also to many belonging to Owhyhee, who were not better inclined; and conceiving it to be very likely that some of these might think proper to make depredations on our property, or to insult our persons, he had taken due precaution to prevent any such mischievous design; fearing left I might be impelled to seek such redress as would prove fatal to his person or his government, or probably to both; although he and his people might be perfectly unconcerned in the offence committed.

      This conversation was urged by Tamaahmaah in the coolest manner, though in the most forcible language, and concluded by hoping, that I would cause such measures to be pursued for the regulation of our conduct towards them, as would avoid all possible chance of any misunderstanding. To this end he made the following requests; that I would give the most positive orders that none of our people, on any account whatsoever, should be suffered to enter their morai's, or consecrated places, or be permitted to infringe on their rights or sacred privileges; that no person should be allowed to stray about the country; and that I would scrupulously adhere to my practice of admitting none but the principal chiefs into the vessels; and that in the day time he should be frequently on board. This, he said, would deter the lawless from any impro-

per conduct, whilst in their canoes about the vessels for the purpose of trading; that when any of our people wished to travel into the country, they should first apply to him, and he would appoint a proper person to be their guide; and a number of others in whom he could confide, to protect them, carry their baggage, and render them every service of which they might stand in need; that, under these regulations, as many of the officers and people as were inclined to make excursions, might extend their travels over the whole island, provided they committed no act contrary to the advice of their guides, and he would himself be accountable for their safety, and also for their receiving every attention of friendly hospitality; that if any of the natives were daring enough to commit any acts of fraud, or were guilty of other irregularities, the offenders should be delivered over to him; by which means a more public example would be made, and they would receive a severer punishment than he conceived it was likely I should cause to be inflicted.

      Regulations so well concerted, and dictated by so much good sense and found policy, could not fail to meet my hearty concurrence, and to insure my utmost exertions to have them duly obeyed.

      These were all, Tamaahmaah said, which on his part he had to propose; but he begged that I would make such additions to them as circumstances might hereafter teach to be necessary.

      Convinced of the advantage, as well as the necessity, of preserving peace with these people, not only on the score of humanity, but as it respected our own present and future welfare; it became indispensably requisite that I should leave no object unattended to, that was likely to co-operate with the judicious measures the king had concerted.

      Notwithstanding that the spot on which our tents and observatories were situated, became consecrated from its vicinity to, or rather from forming a part of, the morai, yet it was very much confined, and afforded but little room for our people to act in their defence, should any sudden change take place, and the natives be hostilely inclined. In the event of any misunderstanding, I was by no means certain, that the sanctity of the place would render sacred the persons of our party residing within its precincts; and should they be unfortunately cut off, the

loss of our instruments and chronometers would certainly follow; many important objects of our voyage would necessarily be defeated; and consequences of a. more serious nature might ensue.

      These important considerations led me seriously to reflect, in what instances the precautions of Tamaahmaah could be strengthened. Little apprehension existed with me, except from the insatiable desire these people possessed for arms, particularly muskets and pistols. These were, apparently the only temptations to a breach of the subsisting cordiality and friendship. To prevent therefore any of these from being thrown in their way, by the carelessness of those who might occasionally be permitted to amuse themselves on shore, I gave directions that no one should take on these occasions any arms, excepting a small pair of pocket pistols; which were to be kept intirely out of sight, and from the knowledge of the Indians, until the moment when self-preservation, or any other absolute necessity, should call them into action. This restriction was suggested by my own experience in several instances at different islands in these seas; where I have seen even considerate officers, as well as midshipmen, when on shore with a gun, either fatigued by the heat of the climate, or disappointed by the want of game, intrust their fowling pieces to an attendant native, who would watch for a good opportunity to make off with it; or, by holding fire arms carelessly in a crowd of the natives, have them wrenched from their hands, and instantly conveyed out of sight. Amongst a much more docile race than those of the Sandwich islands, the most unpleasant consequences have followed these misadventures; not only all supplies of refreshments have been stopped, but the blood of innocent natives has been shed on being fired upon for the thief, by the companions of the person robbed; but amongst these clever, designing, resolute people, worse results were to be expected, especially if any of the dissatisfied and turbulent chiefs should chance to be concerned.

      This was by no means unlikely to take place; and should they once succeed in any trifling attempt, they might, when wholly unexpected by us, in order to delay or prevent punishment, pursue their object to a fatal and serious end.

      For the preservation therefore of our present happy intercourse, I deemed it expedient, and consequently directed, that the whole of these regulations should be most rigidly observed; and though they caused some dissatisfaction to inconsiderate individuals, yet for the faithful discharge of His Majesty's service entrusted to my execution, and for the security and happiness of his subjects under my command, I demanded and enforced a strict obedience to these orders, as well as those formerly issued respecting our traffic with the Indians, which were carried into execution on our first arrival.

      This morning on shore I met with two seamen, one an Irishman, who had deserted from an American trader about three months since, named John Smith; the other, whose name was Isaac Davis, had been unfortunately captured by these islanders in the schooner Fair American, as was noticed on our former visit to Attowai. But as the information I then received now seemed to differ materially from the truth, and as the circumstances of this transaction, together with the treatment which this poor fellow and Young have since received, reflect not less credit on themselves for their good sense and propriety of conduct, than on Tamaahmaah for his humanity and justice, I shall proceed to state, in the abstract, the report made to me both by Young and Davis; and as I have not any doubt of the veracity of either, their information will serve in a great degree to illustrate the different characters of some of the ruling people of these islands, and prove how requisite it is, that every precaution should be taken, by visitors to this country from the civilized world. For although I had every reason to be satisfied of Tamaahmaah's abhorrence of violence and injustice, yet it did not appear that his authority was always equal to restraining the ambitious desires, that governed the conduct of many of the subordinate chiefs.

      John Young was boatswain of an American snow, called the Eleanor, mounting ten guns, navigated by ten Americans and forty-five Chinese, or other inhabitants of that country, and commanded by Mr. Metcalf, on a commercial voyage to the coast of North-West America in the fur trade; in which pursuit Mr. Metcalf had likewise embarked his son,

a youth of about eighteen years of age, in a small schooner, called the Fair American, of about twenty-six tons burthen, and navigated with five men, one of whom was Davis the mate.

      These two vessels had sailed from China, and in the year 1789 the Fair American was detained by the Spaniards at Nootka, but the Eleanor came on in the autumn of that year to the Sandwich islands, and remained principally about Owhyhee during the winter.

      Young stated, that in february 1790, they proceeded to Mowree, where a boat belonging to the snow, with one man in her, was stolen by the natives from the stern of the vessel; and, on a reward being offered for the boat and the man, Mr. Metcalf was informed, that the former was broken to pieces, and that the latter had been killed. The bones of the man were then demanded, which, with the stem and stern-post of the boat, were carried on board the snow in about three days. The natives in the mean time had continued to trade with the crew; and after delivering up the remains of the man, and parts of the boat, they supposed the anger of those on board was intirely appeased, and demanded of Mr. Metcalf the reward he had offered. This, Mr. Metcalf replied, they should soon have, and immediately ordered all the guns to be loaded with musket balls, and nails; and having tabooed one fide of the ship in order to get all the canoes on the starboard side, next the shore, the ports were hauled up, and the guns fired amongst the canoes. The guns between decks, being nearly upon a level with the canoes, did great execution, as did the small arms from the quarter-deck and other parts of the ship. On this occasion, Young represented that upwards of an hundred were killed, and a great many were wounded.

      Having thus taken such revenge as he considered equivalent to the injury received, Mr. Metcalf quitted Mowee, and returned with his vessel to Owhyhee; where, to all appearance, they were on very good terms with the chiefs, and the inhabitants of that island.

      On the 17th of inarch, Young had permission to be on shore until the next day, when the snow stood close in, and fired a gun as a signal for him to return on board; but, to his very great astonishment, he found the canoes all tabooed, and hauled up on the shore, and was informed

by Tamaahmaah, that if he attempted to take a canoe by himself, he would be put to death, but that he should have a canoe the next day. Having no other resource, Young was obliged to submit: and in the evening he was informed, that the schooner Fair American had been captured by Tamaahmootoo, to the southward of Toeaigh bay; and that Mr. Metcalf's son, and the four men composing the crew, had been barbarously murdered.

      The snow remained two days off Karakakooa, siring guns, and standing in shore, as a signal for Young; but after the news was confirmed of the schooner having been captured, the king would not permit him to leave the island, but behaved to him in the kindest manner; telling him that he should not be hurt, and that he should be at liberty to depart in the next ship that arrived; but that he would, on no account, allow a canoe to go off to the snow, left his people should be killed.

      Tamaahmaah, who had been on the strictest terms of friendship with Mr. Metcalf and his people, took Young immediately to his house, where he was treated with every kindness and attention.

      The king, being excessively concerned, and very angry at the late inhuman business, collected a very considerable force; and, as if he intended to chastise those who should be found the perpetrators of this barbarous transaction, he fat out, accompanied by Young, on the 22d of the same month, in order to inquire into the circumstances that could have caused so great a breach of hospitality. The schooner was found in the situation already described, destitute of almost every thing that was moveable. Tamaahmaah demanded that the vessel should instantly be delivered up to him, that he might restore her to the proprietor Mr. Metcalf, should he ever again visit Owhyhee. This was complied with by Tamaahmootoo, who received from the king a very sharp rebuke for the great impropriety of his late conduct in the capture of the schooner, and his unpardonable barbarity in murdering the commander and the people; in excuse for which, he alledged he had been struck and otherways ill treated by the father of the unfortunate young man.

      Here they found Isaac Davis, the mate, still alive, but in a most deplorable condition. Tamaahmaah ordered that he should immediately

be taken to his residence, and gave particular injunctions that he should receive every assistance in their power to bestow.

      From Davis I learned, that he had been treated by Tamaahmaah and his attendants with a degree of humanity, kindness, and careful attention, that he could not have believed these people were capable of shewing.

      The following is his account of the melancholy fate of the younger Metcalf and his people, on the capture of the schooner by Tamaahmootoo; which I have every reason to believe is a true and fair statement of that unjustifiable transaction.

      "The schooner, being close in with the land, and nearly or intirely becalmed, she was visited by Tamaahmootoo, a very powerful chief, who was attended by a great number of the innabitants. Many of these, as well as their chief, made considerable presents to the young commander, and others sold their hogs and vegetables for little or nothing; and in order to ingratiate themselves further in the good opinion of Mr. Metcalf, and to gain his permission for their entering his vessel, they told him that the snow was but a little way to the westward, and that he would see his father before night.

      Davis, who was at the helm, represented the impropriety of this measure to Mr. Metcalf, and said that he thought the behaviour of the natives had a very suspicious appearance; but all he could urge was to no effect; the young commander, perfectly satisfied of their friendly intentions, replied that they would do them no harm, and allowed as many as thought proper to come on board his vessel. In a few minutes he was seized by Tamaahmootoo, thrown overboard, and was no more seen. Davis having a pistol at hand, snapped it at the chief on his seizing his commander, but it unfortunately missed fire. He was then thrown overboard himself, and most inhumanly treated whilst in the water; die women stripped him there of his cloaths, and the men endeavoured to murder him with their paddles, being otherways all totally unarmed. But Davis being a good swimmer, and a very strong athletic man, escaped from one canoe to another before his pursuers, in order to preserve his life, which he appeared to be incapable of prolonging but for

a few moments. At length, exhausted by fatigue, and the loss of blood, which had been very considerable from the wounds he had received, he was hauled into a large double canoe; and as they had no weapon or instrument with which they could put him to death, he was held with his throat across the raster that unites the two canoes, whilst the inhuman wretches jumped upon his neck and shoulders, with the intention of thus depriving him of life, but still without effect; till, being tired their cruelties, eased to persecute him.

      After a short respite he recovered a little, and looking up to the most active of the party, said "mytie, mytie," signifying "good" the man instantly replied "arrowhah," meaning, that he pitied him, and instantly saluted him, by touching noses, gave him some cloth, and assisted him to wipe and bind up his wounds. After this he had no other injury offered to him; on his being taken on shore he was kindly treated by Harapy, brother to Kahowmotoo, who nursed him, and expressed great concern for his deplorable condition; but Tamaahmootoo, notwithstanding the state he was in, took him in triumph through the village, and made a jest of him.

      Davis further stated, that Tamaahmootoo took every thing out of the schooner that he possibly could, before the arrival of the king and Young; that he was rejoiced to see the latter, and thought he had come from the snow to fetch the schooner; but when they met, and he had heard the snow was gone, and that Young had been informed of the particulars of the late cruel transaction, they were both sitting in the greatest affliction, when the king came to them, caught them in his arms and comforted them; and said, that no one should hurt them whilst he could protect them. The king then gave directions that he should be properly taken care of, and told him he was very sorry for what had happened, but that he, Davis, should live with, and be protected, by him.

      After this, the king reprimanded Tamaahmootoo in such terms, that Davis saw tears in the eyes of the latter. Tamaahmaah then took possession of the schooner for the right owner."

      Although there can be no possible excuse offered in vindication of the unjustifiable conduct of this turbulent and ambitious chief, yet it appears to have been almost as inexcusable on the part of the elder Metcalf, that he should have thrown such a temptation in his way. The vessel in question had been a pleasure boat, and was lengthened at China; her gunwale was not a foot higher than that of the double canoes of this country, and being navigated and protected by five persons only, under the command of an inexperienced young man, she became not less a desirable acquisition to Tamaahmootoo than a prize of easy attainment. To risk therefore a vessel so circumstanced, amongst a set of Indians, whose daring and ambitious character was so well known in every corner of the civilized world, must ever be regarded as highly imprudent and inconsiderate.

      John Young, who was about forty-four years of age, born at Liverpool, and Isaac Davis, then thirty-six years old, born at Milsord, have from this period resided intirely with Tamaahmaah; are in his most perfect confidence, attend him in all his excursions of business or pleasure, or expeditions of war or enterprize; and are in the habit of daily experiencing from him the greatest respect, and the highest degree of esteem and regard. Near the bay of Whyeatea the king has given them three very fine estates; and Kahowmotoo, who is the firm friend of Tamaahmaah, not only from connection, but a sincere regard, and who, from his atchievements in war and advice in council, is considered as the second chief in the island, has likewise shewn them, on all occasions, the greatest marks of friendship and respect, and has presented each with a very fine estate near the east point of the island. Kavaheero and Commanowa, who are considered the next chiefs in power and authority to the two former, have also treated them both in the most friendly manner; but neither of them could speak of Tianna in the same favorable terms. This chief eyes them with great jealousy, and has made some attempts on their lives; particularly on the return of Captain Colnett from St. Blas. On this occasion Captain Colnett, understanding that there were two white men on the island, very humanely desired, by letter, that they would repair on board his vessel, and that he would afford them

all the protection and service in his power. Young and Davis being extremely averse to their present way of life, concerted a plan for escaping to Captain Colnett's vessel; a measure very contrary to the wishes and inclinations of Tamaahmaah and the chiefs of the island; left revenge for the capture of the schooner should follow their departure, to prevent which they were always very narrowly watched, and strongly guarded, whenever any vessel was in sight.

      In reply to Captain Colnett's letter Young wrote to him, and stated how he and Davis came to be on the island, what had happened with respect to the schooner, and the means that were used to prevent their escaping. This letter was sent off by one of their attendants, who, meeting Tianna, shewed him the letter. This Tianna immediately took to the king, and, in consequence of his voyage to China, and having lived so long in the society of Englishmen, persuaded the king that he could read its contents. He pretended that Young and Davis had desired Captain Colnett to get the king into his possession, and to keep him until the schooner and they were delivered up to him; and that he then should kill the king and many more of the islanders. To prevent this calamity, he earnestly advised the king to kill Young and Davis; after which, he said, no one would know any thing about them but themselves.

      Captain Colnett concluding the two men were prevented by the natives from getting off to him, very kindly wrote them another letter, and laid, that if that they were so circumstanced, he begged they would send for any thing they wanted, and if he had it it should be sent on shore to them. To this very kind letter Young wrote an answer, and told the man who undertook to carry it on board, that the captain would make him a handsome present for so doing. The next day the man returned, and said he was afraid to deliver the letter, as the king had given orders, that every man should be punished with death, who should carry any thing from either Young or Davis to Captain Colnett. This disappointment determined them if possible to effect their escape.

      They had in their possession two muskets, with some powder and shot; they loaded their pieces and sat out, but before they had got near to the water side opposite to the vessel, they were followed by a great number

of the inhabitants, who, being fearful of their guns, did not molest them. Some of the natives however endeavoured to prevent their reaching a point, that was nearly surrounded by water, from whence being near to the ship, they were in hopes of effecting their purpose. In accomplishing this, Young was obliged to strike one man with the but of his piece, (for they did not like to fire) and unfortunately broke its stock. They had not long been here before the king arrived in his canoe, attended by many others. Tamaahmaah very dispassionately advised them to return from whence they had come; and said, that he would do any thing they could wish to render their lives more comfortable, but. that he could not consent they should leave the island; assuring them that his people would rebel, and put him to death, the instant they took their departure. Tianna, who was present, seemed to be of a different opinion; and offered to take Young and Davis on board Captain Colnett's vessel, in his own canoe. But the king, well knowing that Tianna only wanted to accomplish their destruction, immediately interposed; and in the kindest and most persuasive manner requested they would on no account accept Tianna's offer, but that they would return in his canoe with him. The confidence they reposed in Tamaahmaah, that they should be subject to no inconvenience in consequence of their attempt to escape, and the earnestness with which he solicited them to go back with him, at length had the desired effect, and they both embarked on board his canoe. Davis was in the fore part, and Young in the after part of the canoe, when they were boarded by many others; and Tamaahmaah, observing some violence was likely to be offered to Davis, went forward to rescue him, and to prevent any accident took Davis's musket away from him; in the mean time many of the natives fell upon Young, who received several wounds before the king could return to his assistance, who was obliged to strike several of them with his paddle before they would desist.

      After this project was defeated, Young and Davis were never suffered to be both afloat at the same time until our arrival; and they were given to understand, that the escape of the one would be fatal to the other. This seemed to be a very political measure, as the interest they

had in each other's happiness and welfare, and the sincere friendship and regard that subsisted between them, could not escape the observation of Tamaahmaah, who would readily suggest the expediency of such an interdiction. Thus have Young and Davis since remained, observing that fidelity towards each other, which the true principles of honor dictate under such circumstances.

      Young and Davis had now been resident in Owhyhee nearly three years, which had afforded to each of them frequent opportunities of noticing the characters of the principal chiefs, and leading people, on the island. I derived from them such information respecting the conduct of certain chiefs, as may be considered important; at least to those whose pursuits may lead them into these seas.

      Tianna, they represented, as possessing the most turbulent and ambitious disposition, with great activity of mind, and a thorough contempt of danger. Had his power been sufficient, or had his plots and designs been countenanced and adopted by Tamaahmaah, they must have proved fatal to many of the small trading vessels that have visited these islands. Ever since Tianna had been settled on Owhyhee with the arms and ammunition he had brought from China, his mind had constantly been directed to the seizing of every small vessel that had arrived amongst them; whilst the plans he had repeatedly concerted for such enterprizes had been seconded by his brother Nomatahah and Tamaahmootoo, and as uniformly opposed and over-ruled by Tamaahmaah, Kahozvmotoo, Crymamahoo, and Cavaheero. The chief, Commanow, was of the king's pacific party, had uniformly rejected the counsels of Tianna, and was adverse to his ambitious projects, excepting in one instance; that of the capture of the sloop Princess Royal. In justification however of his conduct on this occasion, he says the reason that induced him to concur in that enterprize, was, that the Spaniards had taken the Princess Royal from the English, and therefore he thought there could be no harm in taking her from the Spaniards.

      Nomatahah and Tamaahmootoo are artful, designing, and restless characters, and have dispositions to act on all occasions of hazard, or unlawful attempt, in conjunction with Tianna. One single instance may serve

to shew with what art their projects are designed, and with what success they are likely to be attended.

      About two months before the capture of the Fair American, whilst Mr. Metcalf was lying with his snow in Karakakooa bay, it was proposed to Tamaahmaah by these chiefs to seize the snow, to put as many of her crew to death as they thought necessary, but to reserve a sufficient number to navigate her, and to instruct them in the management of such vessels. By this acquisition, so great an advantage would be gained over the rest of the islands, as would make the conquest of them all very easy; for under the power that Tamaahmaah would then have, they must inevitably be reduced to subjection.

      The mode proposed by Tianna for the accomplishment of this project was, that whilst the crew were engaged aloft in furling the sails after they had been loosed to dry, which, in consequence of the then rainy season, was a daily practice on board the vessel, these chiefs, with others on whom they could depend, being assembled on board for this express purpose, should murder all those who remained upon deck, and put as many of the others to death, as they considered necessary, on their coming down out of the rigging. Tianna reduced the success of this exploit nearly to a certainty, as he had been two or three times on board the vessel whilst her sails were furling, and saw with what ease his plan could be carried into effect.

      Notwithstanding Tamaahmaah revolted at the idea of this barbarous scheme, and with great abhorrence rejected the proposals of Tianna, he very fortunately still remained in the neighbourhood. For when the projectors, instead of subscribing to the orders of their king, and abandoning their cruel design, repaired on board the vessel, Tamaahmaah on becoming acquainted that they were so assembled, went in person immediately on board, and ordered them out of the vessel; adding threats, that if they did not instantly comply, he would inform Mr. Metcalf of the danger that awaited him. They denied having visited the ship with any hostile intention; and Mr. Metcalf left the island without having the least knowledge of the conspiracy that had been formed for his destruction; and which had been the case also with the Princess Royal, and

several other vessels, against which their plots had been equally well concerted; but, by the timely interference of Tamaahmaah, their barbarous projects had been defeated, and the lives of many civilized people preserved.

      On this subject I had questioned both Tamaahmaah and Kahowmotoo, who confirmed the information given by Young and Davis; and in addition to it they stated to me, that in council Tianna was always for war and coercive measures, by which conduct he had not only incurred their disapprobation, but that Tamaahmaah had obliged him to quit his former residence in the neighbourhood of Karakakooa, and to retire to the north-west part of the island.

CHAPTER VI.

Transactions at Karakakooa bay — Visit from the widow of Terreeoboo — An Indian sham-sight — Proposals for a general peace amongst the Indians — Quit Owhyhee — Astronomical observations.

      HAVING now opened a friendly communication with the chiefs, and adopted measures for establishing and preserving the good understanding that had taken place between the inhabitants and ourselves, one thing only appeared necessary to make our situation perfectly comfortable: this was, to discover some means of recruiting our supply of water, which Karakakooa does not naturally furnish. On visiting the well from which the Resolution and Discovery had obtained theirs, I found that it contained but a small quantity, and this so excessively brackish, that I was fearful of its bad effects on the health of our people; and as there was no better within our reach, I applied to Tamaahmaah for his assistance to relieve our wants. The vast consumption of water by the cattle on our passage hither, made the quantity we now required very considerable, and he was for some time at a loss to devise the best means for procuring a sufficiency. At length he proposed that a certain number of his canoes, each taking one. two, or three puncheons, according to their size, should be sent to different places on this side of the island, and there be filled with water brought by the natives in calabashes to the casks at the sea side, from the little wells in their plantations.

      This plan being determined upon, a dozen puncheons, by way of experiment, were put into the canoes, the destination of some of which was

at that distance, that they were not expected to return in three days. Six of the calks, however, were brought back full of most excellent water the following morning; for which service those employed seemed amply rewarded by receiving a piece of iron about six inches long, and two inches in breadth, being the price fixed by the king for filling each cask, who also directed that the people of the neighbourhood should bring down water for sale; this was furnished in tolerable abundance, and they acted in this, as in other articles of traffic, with the greatest honesty and propriety of conduct.

      The king spent the day in visiting the two vessels, though he passed most of his time on board the Discovery, where his observation was constantly awake, and few of our most common operations escaped his notice; all his inquiries were pertinent, directed to useful objects, and calculated to obtain information that would hereafter answer some good purpose.

      On missing his early visit the next morning, I received a message from him, that an axe and some small articles belonging to the Chatham had been stolen by the women who had been permitted to sleep on board, and who bad escaped to the shore undetected. Our first knowledge of the theft was by this message from Tamaahmaah, who informed me that the offender, a young woman was in custody, and that the instant the stolen goods were recovered, they should be returned to the place from whence they had been taken. This was done about breakfast time, after which he spent the remainder of the day with me, and gave me the unwelcome intelligence, that the bull for whose recovery I was so very solicitous, was dead. On this mortifying occasion I much regretted that I had not followed the advice of Kahowmotoo, from whose connection with the king I most probably might have relied with perfect security on his offers, of taking charge of the cattle at Toeaigh. Two of the young cows, however, appeared to be in calf: this encouraged me to hope that his loss would be repaired by one of them bringing forth a male. The finest of the two ewes, I was now informed was killed by a dog the day after the cattle were landed; whose life was instantly forfeited for the transgression.

      Our plan for procuring water answered very well; the casks were taken the greatest care of, and were punctually and regularly returned; so that by this evening we had acquired eight tuns of excellent water.

      On thursday afternoon Kerneecuberrey, the unfortunate widow of the late Terreeoboo, favored me with a visit. After lamenting the death of her husband, and witnessing nearly the extirpation of his whole race, she had survived to this time in a state of captivity. Under these melancholy circumstances, she had met in Tamaahmaah not only a humane and generous conqueror, but a friend and a protector.

      During the conflict at the revolution, he was under the necessity of using some violence to shelter her from the revenge of his nearest relations, and the fury of the mob, who loudly demanded her immediate execution, and the lives of all her husband's adherents. Although on my visit to these islands in the year 1779 she was then advanced in life, yet I perfectly recollected the features of her countenance. The high degree of sensibility and vivacity it then possessed, now too plainly bespoke the sorrow and dejection she had since experienced.

      In a very feeble saultering voice she said, that we had been formerly acquainted, that she had come with Tamaahmaah to pay me a visit and see the ship, presenting me at the same time with a small feathered cap, which was all she had now in her power to bellow. My name was perfectly familiar to her, but my person was so altered, that it was some time before she was quite reconciled to the change that fourteen years had produced. Curiosity induced her to visit most parts of the ship; and whilst she was so engaged, a slight degree of cheerfulness seemed to obtrude, and for a moment appeared to suspend the weighty afflictions that her declining years were scarcely able to sustain. Satisfied with the surrounding objects, and gratified in her inquiries after many of the officers and some of the people of the Resolution and Discovery, I presented her with an assortment of valuables suitable to her former distinguished situation, and obtained from Tamaahmaah a most solemn promise in her presence, that the articles I had given her should not be taken from her by himself or any other person.

Kahowmotoo, who with a part of his family had been our constant visitors in the clay time, and whose good offices had been uniformly exerted to the utmost of his ability in our service. took a very friendly leave on friday morning, for the purpose of collecting such things as would be most acceptable to us after quitting Karakakooa; it being my intention to visit Toeaigh previously to my departure from this island. On this occasion I presented him with some useful articles that were highly acceptable to him, particularly a suit of sails made of old canvas for his largest canoe, and a cloak of scarlet cloth made after the fashion of that I had given to Tamaahmaah, but not quite so gaudily decorated.

      Mr. Menzies, who had departed on monday in pursuit of botanical researches, accompanied by one of the midshipmen of the Discovery, on an excursion into the country, returned to the ship this morning. He had been attended by a guide and eight people appointed for that purpose by Tamaahmaah. From these people he had received the greatest attention and civility, and through all the inhabited parts of the country they had passed, had been treated with the utmost respect and hospitality.

      Most of our material business being by this time accomplished, our wood and water completely replenished; and finding that on application to the chiefs a sufficient quantity of refreshments were instantly supplied, I annulled the order prohibiting a general barter, and gave permission for the purchasing of curiosities.

      Accompanied by Tamaahmaah and some of the officers, I visited the three villages in this bay: and first of all the fatal spot, where Captain Cook so unexpectedly, and so unfortunately for the world, yielded up his valuable life. This melancholy, and ever to be deplored event, the natives are at much pains exactly to represent, to produce reasons for its taking place, and to shew that it fulfilled the prophecies of the priests, who had foretold this sad catastrophe. But as these are matters that require further examination, I shall defer them to future consideration.

      At this place, as well as at the other villages, the inhabitants, who were very numerous, behaved with the utmost civility and decorum. It may

not however he unimportant to observe, that we repaired on shore with both boats well armed, our men dressed, as was the usual practice on a sunday, in their best attire, and with a guard of marines. Possibly our appearance had some influence on their general behaviour, though for my own part, I entertained not the least suspicion that such protection was at all necessary. The vanity of Tamaahmaah was however highly gratified by the parade, and he much regretted that he had not an English dress to wear upon this occasion. For this he bad substituted a garment I had given him, that had not before been exposed to public view, which much attracted the notice and applause of the surrounding multitude. Tianna, with several other chiefs, were also present; the latter had every appearance of a cheerful and happy disposition: but the countenance of the ambitious Tianna could not conceal the envy he felt in not being treated with the same degree of respect that was shewn to his sovereign. His jealousy became conspicuously evident in our walk through the village, by his asking in a surly tone of voice, why I gave that, man so many things, and himself so few? This I endeavoured to explain, though possibly not intirely to his satisfaction.

      Nothing worthy of notice occurred during our perambulation on shore; which, being ended, we returned on board to dinner.

      Notwithstanding we had completely finished the principal business of refitting the vessels, yet, as I considered the meridian of this place to have been accurately and unalterably fixed by Captain Cook and Captain King, for the better regulation of our chronometers, I much wished for the further observations of a day or two at the observatory; and having promised to give the king an entertainment with fire works, that exhibition was fixed for monday evening; and that he might contribute to the pleasures of the day, he proposed to have a sham-battle on shore in the afternoon, between such of his best warriors as could be assembled on so short a notice.

      As soon as dinner was over on monday we were summoned to this review, and as Tamaahmaah considered all ceremonies and formalities on my part as adding to his consequence, he requested that I would be attended on shore by a guard.

      We found the warriors assembled towards the north corner of the beach, without the limits of the hallowed ground. The party consisted of about an hundred and fifty men armed with spears; these were divided into three parties nearly in equal numbers, two were placed at a little distance from each other; that on our right was to represent the armies of Titeeree and Taio, that on the left the army of Tamaahmaah. Their spears on this occasion were blunt pointed sticks, about the length of their barbed ones; whilst, on each wing, we were to suppose a body of troops placed to annoy the enemy with stones from their slings. The combatants now advanced towards each other, seemingly without any principal leader, making speeches as they approached, which appeared to end in vaunts and threats from both parties, when the battle began by throwing their sham spears at each other. These were parried in most, instances with great dexterity, but such as were thrown with effect produced contusions and wounds, which, though fortunately of no dangerous tendency, were yet very considerable, and it was admirable to observe the great good humour and evenness of temper that was preserved by those who were thus injured. This battle was a mere skirmish, neither party being supported, nor advancing in any order but such as the fancy of the individuals directed. Some would advance even from the rear to the front, where they would throw their spears, and instantly retreat into the midst of their associates, or would remain picking up the spears that had fallen without effect. These they would sometimes hurl again at the foe, or hastily retreat with two or three in their possession. Those, however, who valued themselves on military achievements, marched up towards the front of the adverse party, and in a vaunting manner bid defiance to the whole of their adversaries. In their left hand they held their spear, with which in a contemptuous manner they parried some of those of their opponents, whilst with their right they caught, others in the act of flying immediately at them, and instantly returned them with great dexterity. In this exercise no one seemed to excel his Owhyhean majesty, who entered the lists for a short. time, and defended himself with the greatest dexterity, much to our surprize and admiration; in one instance particularly, against six spears that were hurled at him nearly at the

same instant; three he caught as they were flying, with one hand, two he broke by parrying them with his spear in the other, and the sixth, by a trifling inclination of his body, passed harmless.

      This part of the combat was intended to represent the king as having been suddenly discovered by the enemy, in a situation where he was least expected to be found; and the shower of darts that were instantly directed to that quarter, were intended to shew that he was in the most imminent danger; until advancing a few paces, with the whole body of his army more closely connected, and throwing their spears with their utmost exertion, he caused the enemy to fall back in some little confusion, and he himself rejoined our party without having received the least injury.

      The consequences attendant on the first man being killed, or being so wounded as to fall on the disputed ground between the contending armies, were next exhibited.

      This event causes the loss of many lives and much blood, in the conflict that takes place in order to rescue the unfortunate individual, who, if carried off by the adverse party dead or alive, becomes an immediate sacrifice at the morai. On this occasion the wounded man was supposed to be one of Titeeree's soldiers, and until this happened, no advantage appeared on either side; but now the dispute became very serious, was well supported on all sides, and victory still seemed to hold a level scale, until at length the supposed armies of Taio and Titeeree fell back, whilst that of Tamaahmaah carried off in triumph several supposed dead bodies, dragging the poor fellows, (who already had been much trampled upon) by the heels, some distance through a light loose sand; and who, notwithstanding that their eyes, ears, mouth, and nostrils were by this means filled, were no sooner permitted to use their legs, than they ran into the sea, washed themselves, and appeared as happy and as cheerful as if nothing had happened.

      In this riot-like engagement, for it could not possibly be considered any thing better, the principal chiefs were considered to bear no part; and on its being thus concluded, each party fat quietly down on the ground, and a parly, or some other fort of conversation took place.

      The chiefs were now supposed to have arrived at the theatre of war, which had hitherto been carried on by the common people only of both parties; a very usual mode of proceeding, I understood, among these islanders. They now on both sides came forward, guarded by a number of men armed with spears of great length, called pallaloos. These weapons are never relinquished but by death, or captivity; the former is the most common. They are not barbed, but reduced to a small point, and though not very sharp, yet are capable of giving deep and mortal wounds by the force and manner with which they are used. The missive spears are all barbed about six inches from the point, and are generally from seven to eight feet long.

      The warriors who were armed with the pallaloos, now advanced with a considerable degree of order, and a scene of very different exploits commenced; presenting, in comparison to what before had been exhibited, a wonderful degree of improved knowledge in military evolutions. This body of men, composing several ranks, formed in close and regular order, constituted a firm and compact phalanx, which in actual service, I was informed, was not easily to be broken. Having reached the spot in contest, they fat down on the ground about thirty yards asunder, and pointed their pallaloos at each other. After a short interval of silence, a conversation commenced, and Taio was supposed to state his opinion respecting peace and war. The arguments seemed to be urged and supported with equal energy on both sides. When peace under certain stipulations was proposed, the pallaloos were inclined towards the ground, and when war was announced, their points were raised to a certain degree of elevation. Both parties put on the appearance of being much upon their guard, and to watch each other with a jealous eye, whilst this negociation was going forward; which, however, not terminating amicably, their respective claims remained to be decided by the fate of a battle. Nearly at the same instant of time they all arose, and, in close columns, met each other by flow advances. This movement they conducted with much order and regularity, frequently shifting their ground, and guarding with great circumspection against the various advantages of their opponents; whilst the inferior bands were supposed to be en-

gaged on each wing with spears and slings. The success of the contest, however, seemed to depend intirely on those with the pallaloos, who firmly disputed every inch of the ground, by parrying each others lunges with the greatest dexterity, until some to the left of Titeeree's center fell. This greatly encouraged Tamaahmaah's party, who, rushing forward with shouts and great impetuosity, broke the ranks of their opponents, and victory was declared for the arms of Owhyhee, by the supposed death of several of the enemy; these at length retreated; and on being more closely pressed, the war was decided by the supposed death of Titeeree and Taio; and those who had the honor of personating these chiefs, were, like those before, dragged in triumph by the heels over no small extent of loose sandy beach, to be presented to the victorious Tamaahmaah, and for the supposed purpose of being sacrificed at his morai. These poor fellows, like those before mentioned, bore their treatment with the greatest good humour.

      The first exhibition appeared to be extremely rude, disorderly, and ineffectual, though much dexterity was certainly shewn; but from the manner in which the pallaloos were managed, it would seem that they are capable of sustaining a very heavy assault.

      These military exploits finished towards sun-set, and as soon as it was dark we entertained the king and a large concourse of his people with a display of fire works. Tamaahmaah and some of the chiefs recollected to have seen a few indifferent ones, that were fired by Captain Cook on his being visited by Terreeoboo; but ours, being in higher preservation, of greater variety, and in a larger quantity, were viewed by the several chiefs, who were the only persons admitted within our tabooed precincts, with the greatest mixture of fear, surprize, and admiration; and by the repeated bursts of acclamation from the numerous body of the inhabitants assembled on the occasion, it was hard to determine which of these passions most generally preponderated.

      The following morning Kavahero, the chief of Kowrooa, who was of our party the preceding evening, informed me, that on his return home, the inhabitants of that village at first considered what they beheld as a diversion only, but from the time it lasted, and the continual clamour that

they had heard, they had become very much alarmed, and suspected that some misunderstanding had taken place between us and Tamaahmaah; and that we were destroying him, with all his people and houses, on this side of the country. The same opinion had prevailed with most of the women who were on board the vessels, and who were not easily persuaded to believe otherways.

      These intimations afforded me an opportunity which I did not suffer to escape, to impress on their minds the very great superiority we possessed, should we ever be obliged to act towards them as enemies. The sky and water rockets, balloons, hand grenades, &c. &c. I represented to be like guns fired without shot, when designed for entertainment; but like them capable of being rendered formidable and destructive weapons, when occasion might require. Of this they seemed to entertain no doubt, and were anxious beyond measure to be provided with a few, for their protection against Taio and Titeeree. On this subject the king was so excessively pressing, that I was induced to indulge him by complying with his request. I gave to the charge of Young, who with his comrade Davis had so conducted themselves as to be intitled to our confidence, a dozen sky rockets, and half that number of effective hand grenades, for the sole purpose of Tamaahmaah's protection, and with the strictest injunctions, that they should never be used but with this design. I likewise exhorted them on no pretence to attend Tamaahmaah, or assist him, in any ambitious schemes for the conquest of the neighbouring islands; but to support him to the utmost of their power, not only in the defence of his island against foreign invasion, but in maintaining his authority against domestic insurrection.

      I had embraced every opportunity, and had met with no little difficulty to convince Tamaahmaah, and the chiefs who had been our constant visitors, that a peaceable mode of life was infinitely to be preferred, and more conducive to their real happiness, than the continued state of warfare that had so long disgraced their islands; without any other motive that could be urged as an excuse for despoiling each other's lands, or destroying their fellow creatures, than a wild and inordinate am-

bition to possess themselves of each others territories, which experience had shewn them they were incapable of retaining after conquest.

      These and similar arguments I had repeatedly made use of, for the desirable purpose of bringing about a general pacification with the contending sovereigns of these islands; and had at length succeeded so far, as to induce the king, and most of the chiefs, to give the matter their serious consideration. One obstacle, however, seemed to be insurmountable. The want of confidence in all the ruling parties. Such a negociation could only take place by personal conference, and were a chief to be lent from hence to Mowee, with full powers to enter upon so desirable a business, it was alledged the people there would have no good opinion of his intentions; and, considering him as a spy, would instantly put him to death.

      I endeavoured to do away this objection, by offering to take any chief so empowered on board the ship, and to tow his canoe to Mowee, where I would protect him, and remain until the negociation was at an end. This was not considered as a sufficient protection, as the ambassador would be safe no longer than I should remain on the spot. The business however did not rest here; for being on shore the day before Kahowmotoo's departure, I was solicited to attend a council of the chiefs at Tamaahmaah's house. Here much was said on the subject of the peace I had so earnestly recommended. The king and several of the chiefs seemed to be well convinced of the benefits with which a peace would be attended; on this part of the discourse little was said by Kakowmotoo or Tianna, but that they were convinced that little confidence could be placed in Titeeree. They were however of opinion, that the best method of insuring success would be, that I should take a chief of Owhyhee to Mowee, and having shewn to Titeeree and Taio the advantages of making peace, and convinced their minds of the propriety of so doing, and of the inclination of Tamaahmaah to accomplish this happy object, that I should return with Taio to Owhyhee, where they would immediately enter heartily into the business with him, and leave all disputed points to be adjusted by me, as the mutual friend of both parties.

      There was doubtless a great deal of solid sense in this mode of ar-

guing, and probably there was no other mode so likely to have been attended with success; but I was so much pressed for time, that it was impossible for me to have made the experiment. On my stating, that the want of time put it totally out of my power to comply with this arrangement, which I should otherways have cheerfully acceded to, some conversation, that I did not understand, passed in a low voice between the king and Kahowmotoo; after which the former requested, as I seemed so desirous of effecting a peace between the two islands, that I would use my endeavours when I went to Mowee to bring this matter about, and that on my return next autumn to these islands, I should visit Mowee first, and if I then found the business unaccomplished, should bring Taio under my protection to Owhyhee, where every thing should be adjusted and settled in the manner before proposed. To this I gave no positive answer, wishing first to know on what terms Tamaahmaah would agree to peace; to this it was replied, that Mowee, Morotoi, and the neighbouring islands, should be ceded to his sovereignty of Owhyhee, in right of his last conquest; and that Titeeree and Taio should remain in the quiet possession of Woahoo, Attowai, and the rest of the small islands to leeward.

      This exorbitant demand I was confident would never be listened to, and I therefore declined having any thing more to do in the business, until terms should be offered that might incline the opposite party to be desirous of an accommodation.

      After much conversation respecting the magnitude, population, and fertility of Owhyhee, which was stated to be equal if not superior to all the islands collectively taken, the right which Titeeree held in the sovereignty of Mowee and its neighbouring islands was next discussed. As the possession of these territories appeared to have been in the family of Titeeree for many ages, I stated that it was not likely he should easily relinquish his pretensions; and though he might be tempted to do so on certain conditions, at the moment, yet after he had re-established his power, and recruited his strength in men and canoes, there could not be a doubt but he would endeavour to re-assume the dominions of his forefathers, and then the same devastation and warfare would be again revived.

      These, and other arguments to the same effect, induced the king and his counsellors to listen to the conditions I proposed. They were founded on the spirit of their original laws, and the ancient custom of governing Owhyhee and Mowee, with the islands in their immediate vicinity; at which time, according to their own account, they lived in great harmony and friendship with each other. My first proposition was, that Owhyhee should remain a separate and distinct government of itself, under the authority of Tamaahmaah and his heirs: that Titeeree and Taio should remain in the sovereignty of the other islands, as distinct or foreign dominions: and that the king of Owhyhee should surrender all claim or pretensions to those territories; experience having already demonstrated his inability of retaining conquered countries, without endangering his authority, and disturbing his peace at home. After due consideration, it was agreed that I should on my arrival at Mowee use my endeavours to establish a permanent peace on my own principles; and, by a letter to Young from thence, inform Tamaahmaah with the progress of my negociation, which they promised to conclude and ratify, if a chief, properly authorized, brought, the letter from Mowee.

      I avoided noticing this business whilst it was pending, in the order of my narrative, under the idea that new objections would arise from after considerations, and additional consultations on the subject; all matters however now seemed finally adjusted, and it may not be uninteresting to state the circumstances that first gave rise to this disposition towards peace, as I do not claim the merit of the thought having originated with myself.

      The king and several of the chiefs solicited my assistance in the conquest they meditated of all the islands to leeward. They entertained great hopes of my concurrence from the friendship I had uniformly manifested, and from the utter abhorrence I had as uniformly expressed of the cruel and horrid murder of our countrymen at Woahoo, belonging to the Dædalus. This vessel they considered as belonging to me, and for the purpose of exciting my revenge, and inducing my compliance with their wishes, they alledged, that this lamentable outrage was committed in the presence, and by the positive order, of Titeeree's brother. This assertion however seemed to be intended for no other purpose than to

aggravate the crime of their neighbours, and to increase our misfortune: and they were not less disappointed than surprized that, notwithstanding the forcible reasons they had urged, I peremptorily refused them any assistance. Instead of encouraging hostilities between them, I pointed out the many important advantages that would result from a friendly intercourse with each other; and recommended, that a permanent peace should be established with the inhabitants of all the islands. Still they endeavoured to prevail upon me to listen to their solicitations, and disregarding the pacific measures I had recommended, thought to influence my conduct by representing, that Mr. Ingraham, commanding the American brig Hope, on some misunderstanding with Titeeree and Taio, had fired several shot at them as they went from his vessel to the shore; and that in consequence of this treatment, those chiefs had given directions to the inhabitants of all the islands under their authority, to kill every white man they should meet with, whether English, American, or of any other nation. What impression this intelligence might have made at any other time I cannot say, but on this occasion it did not in the lead tend to affect my determination, founded on the cause of humanity, and many weighty political considerations.

      A general periodical taboo was to take place this evening, and as most of the chiefs our friends had disposed of such matters as they had brought for our service, they took their leave, knowing our departure was nigh, and returned to their respective places of abode; well satisfied with their visit, and intreating us to return again soon to Owhyhee.

      The taboo demanded the removal of our tents, observatory, &c. these of course were duly received on board; and I acquainted Tamaahmaah that it was my intention to fail on wednesday night, or the following morning. The king earnestly requested that we should not depart until friday, as he should then be able to accompany us some distance along the island to the northward; but as the season was fast advancing, I entered into no engagement, but left our stay to the event of circumstances.

      Tamaahmaah conceiving this might be his last visit, presented me with a handsome cloak formed of red and yellow feathers, with a small collection of other native curiosities and at the same time delivered into

my charge the superb cloak that he had worn on his formal visit at our arrival. This cloak was very neatly made of yellow feathers; after he had displayed its beauty, and had shewn me the two holes made in different parts of it by the enemy's spears the first day he wore it, in his last battle for the sovereignty of this island, he very carefully folded it up, and desired, that on my arrival in England, I would present it in his name to His Majesty, King George; and as it had never been worn by any person but himself, he strictly enjoined me not to permit any person whatever to throw it over their shoulders, saying, that it was the most valuable thing in the island of Owhyhee, and for that reason he had sent it to so great a monarch, and so good a friend, as he considered the King of England.

      This donation I am well persuaded was dictated by his own grateful heart, without having received the least hint or advice from any person whatever, and was the effect of principles, highly honorable to more civilized minds. The cloak I received, and gave him the most positive assurance of acting agreeably with his directions.

      Although Tamaahmaah considered himself to be amply rewarded by the different articles I had from time to time presented him with, yet, the very essential services he had rendered us, his steady friendship, and the attachment he had shewn to our welfare, demanded, I thought, some additional testimony of our general approbation. For this purpose I selected a number of useful as well as ornamental articles; amongst the latter were two cloaks similar to those I had before presented him, and a quantity of plain and coloured gartering tape; this was held in great estimation, especially when two or three sorts were sewn together to form that part of their dress called the maro, about three yards long, and six inches broad. The useful matters consisted of a variety of culinary utensils and implements of husbandry, with some smiths and carpenters tools. With this acquisition he was greatly delighted, and expressed much surprize at the liberality of the present.

      He then in the most affectionate manner took his leave, not only of myself and all the officers, but of every person he saw on deck; and requesting that I would remain until friday morning, which however I

did not think adviseable to promise, he left the ship with considerable reluctance.

      Amongst those who had accompanied the king on this visit, were two chiefs, one named Crymakoo, the other Quoti, but more commonly called Kookinney, which in their language means quickness. To the care of these chiefs Mr. Whidbey and the observatory had been entrusted, with an additional guard of some natives of the order of the priesthood, each of whom strove to surpass the other in acts of service and civility. The situation that the two chiefs filled, and the superiority they possessed, afforded them more frequent opportunities than the rest of manifesting their friendly intentions, in a uniform steadiness deserving the highest commendation.

      As an acknowledgment for their services and fidelity, I requested that Tamaahmaah would point out to me such articles as would be most worthy of their acceptance: these were presented to them, and they were highly gratified by this compliment to their integrity.

      There were none of the chiefs who seemed to feel so much regret on our departure as these two young men. They had been constantly with Mr. Whidbey in the marquee, and had acquired such a taste for our mode of living, that their utmost endeavours were exerted to imitate all our ways, and they seemed so perfectly happy and pleased with our society, that they were scarcely ever absent unless when sent for by the king. Their attachment was by no means of a childish nature, or arising only from novelty; it was the effect of reflection, and the consciousness of their own comparative inferiority. This directed their minds to the acquirement of useful instruction, from those whom they acknowledged to be so infinitely their superiors. Their conversation had always for its object important information, not frivolous inquiry; and their questions were of a nature that would not have discredited much more enlightened observers. Their vivacity and sensibility of countenance, their modest behaviour, evenness of temper, quick conception, and the pains they took to become acquainted with our language, and to be instructed in reading and writing, bespoke them to have not only a genius to acquire, but abilities to profit by instruction.

      It appeared to us very singular that these two young men, who were nearly allied to the most inveterate enemies of Tamaahmaah, should have been selected by him from the numerous train of favorites attending on his person, to be his most intimate and confidential friends. Crymakoo, who was about twenty-four years of age, was son to a chief of the first consequence in Mowee, and one of Titeeree's principal warriors. In his early infancy he was taken under the care of Tamaahmaah, brought up by him, and had for some years past possessed the confidence, and been the constant companion, of the king, for whose interest and prosperity he entertained the greatest regard; and in return, he was inverted by his prince with an authority almost equal to his own. Quoti, though not possessing at this time power and authority equal to that of Crymakoo, yet seemed to divide with him the affection and esteem of the king. He was about the age. of eighteen; and notwithstanding that he was inferior in point of figure and address to Crymakoo, whose person and deportment excelled in a great degree any of the islanders we had seen, yet he had a very engaging manner, and a pleasing mode of conducting himself. In his intellectual endowments he seemed to possess a great superiority over Crymakoo. This youth was the reputed son of Terreeoboo, by Namahanna, the favorite wife of Kahowmotoo, but report whispered that he was a much nearer relation than that of cousin to Tamaahmaah.

      All our external business being completely finished, little else remained to be done but to bend the sails, and get the vessels ready for sea: this service was performed the next day, when all our friends who continued or resided in the neighbourhood were in sacred retirement. This taboo was not observed by the lower orders of the people with the same degree of strictness as that mentioned in the preceding chapter. Many of the men were busily employed in their traffic alongside, but no woman was permitted to be afloat.

      On this occasion I think it important to state, that ever since permission had been granted for a general traffic with the islanders. I had attentively watched its effect, and could not have had a better opportunity to be convinced, how absolutely requisite it is that a prohibition

on a general trade, between the crews and the natives, should take place on board all European or American vessels, until the more important business, of procuring the necessary supplies of refreshments, wood and water, be accomplished. Whilst the prohibition was in force on board the Discovery, all the essential articles were brought to market, and purchased by us as fast as they could conveniently be received; and any number of hogs, or quantity of vegetables, might have been procured during that period. But no sooner were these reductions discontinued, and our people at liberty to indulge themselves in the purchase of what at the moment they esteemed to be curiosities, than almost all our essential supplies ceased to be brought from the shore, and the few articles of that description which did appear alongside, were increased in price four or five hundred per cent.; even at that rate I endeavoured to purchase our daily consumption of water, but could not succeed. The depreciation in the value of our own commodities was also the consequence of the permission for a general trade, from the extravagant prices given by the crew in outbidding each other, for insignificant articles, which were no sooner possessed than they were neglected, and often in a few days were thrown overboard.

      The weather became cloudy with some rain in the afternoon, and the wind was unsteady, blowing in squalls very hard from the northern quarter. This continued all night, and in the morning of thursday brought a very heavy swell into the bay, that obliged us, much to the satisfaction of Tamaahmaah, and our friends on shore, to remain stationary. Soon after suse they all stocked round us with their usual affability and friendship; the king however was not, according to his general practice, amongst the earliest. A delay had been occasioned by his waiting to come off in great state in one of his largest canoes, that we had rigged for him with a full suit of canvas sails, sloop fashion, to which I had added a union jack and a pendant; but these, not having been placed according to his directions, required alteration; and, that they might be quite in proper order, he cruized for some time about the bay, before he came alongside. On his arrival we found him highly delighted with his man of war, but he observed, that she would make a much better appearance with a few swivels properly mounted; I agreed with him

in this opinion, but the words "Taboo King George" were sufficient to prevent a syllable more being urged on that subject.

      Tamaahmaah, knowing my intention of visiting Kahowmotoo in my way to Mowee, informed me, that he had sent directions to the persons on his estates at Toeaigh to supply us with a full stock of hogs and vegetables, and any thing else the country afforded; and that he might be certain that his orders would be duly executed, he requested that Young and Davis might attend us thither; as it was impossible for him to absent himself from Karakakooa until certain ceremonies had taken place, in consequence of his having celebrated the festival of the new year in this district; and of his having transgressed the law by living in such social intercourse with us, who had eaten and drank in the company of women.

      On the evening of our departure, Tamaahmaah was to resign himself to the strict obedience of a taboo that was then to commence. On this occasion, all his people who had been in commercial intercourse with us, were to lay before him the whole of the treasure they had acquired, and to render to him the customary tribute. The presents that the king himself had received would also be exposed to public view, when certain priests would perform prayers, exhortations, and other functions of their office. These ceremonies frequently continue without stopping, near half a day, and are sometimes repeated ten days successively.

      On the morning of the 8th the weather being pleasant, with a gentle breeze from the land, we sailed from Karakakooo, and stood along shore to the northward; about four miles from our last station we passed a small creek, where we saw the captured schooner laid-up, and a house built over it to protect her from the sun. About this time Tamaahmaah, with his queen and most of his attendants, had overtaken us. I took this opportunity of resuming this unfortunate subject, and understood from Tamaahmaah, that it was his intention to return the schooner to Mr. Metcalf her owner. This, Tamaahmaah promised to do; either to Mr. Metcalf himself, or to the commander of any vessel authorized by Mr. Metcalf to receive her. Young bore witness to the king's sincerity, and said that this had been his constant language, from the moment he became acquainted with the melancholy cattle of her detention. From

Young we learned, that the schooner was now of little value, having nearly fallen to pieces for want of the necessary repairs.

      The royal party remained on board until about ten in the forenoon, when, after taking an affectionate leave of us all, and expressing the greatest concern at the shortness of our visit, they returned to Karakakooa.

      With a favorable breeze from the south-west we continued our route to the northward, within about 2 miles of the land. Some rocks and breakers were seen lying, about half way from the shore, off the west point of the island, and extending two or three miles from thence towards Toeaigh. To the north of these the bottom is free from rocks, where vessels may anchor, but the situation does not afford any fresh water; and it is besides objectionable, on account of its being exposed to the north winds, which, with those that blow from the north-westward, are the most violent and dangerous known in this country. Towards the evening we were pretty far advanced in the bay, where, with a moderate breeze from the land, we plied during the night.

      Our friend Kahowmotoo, agreeably to his promise, visited us the next morning, and presented me with twenty fine hogs, and a large assortment of vegetables; to these he was pleased to add a very handsome feathered cloak.

      The servants of the king were very alert in obeying their master's orders, and brought eighty very fine hogs for the Discovery, and half that number, equally good, for the Chatham; with large supplies of vegetables for both. They behaved with the utmost decorum, and inquired if any more of these, or any other articles, would be wanted, adding, that if so, they should be immediately provided. This abundant supply was however far beyond what we could possibly require, one third being fully sufficient for all our purposes; the remainder was therefore directed to be returned to the shore.

      During the forenoon we received a visit from Tianna, who brought as a present to me about half a dozen small ill-fed hogs, for which we had neither room nor occasion. He was not however dismissed without a farewel present, and such a one, as in my opinion he ought to have

been extremely well contented with; since, on no one of his visits, which had been very frequent, excepting on the first, had he offered us any refreshments; yet he had received from me presents nearly equal to those I had made to other chiefs, who had been instrumental in supplying our wants, and anxious on all occasions to render us service. Although Tianna could assume no merit, either for his supplies, or services bestowed upon us, yet, such was his envious pride, that instead of being thankful for what he had not deserved, he could not refrain from expressions of dissatisfaction, that he had not been shewn the same attention and respect, and complimented with articles of similar value to those, that had been offered to Tamaahmaah. In short, his conversation was in so haughty a stile, and so unlike the general conduct of all the other chiefs of Owhyhee, that I was induced to request that he would return the scarlet cloak, axes, and a variety of other useful articles I had just before given him; observing, that as these things were in his opinion so inadequate to his claims, they could not possibly be worthy his acceptance. With this request however Tianna did not think proper to comply, but departed, affecting to be perfectly satisfied and contented, though his countenance proclaimed those designing, ambitious, and (I believe I may with justice add) treacherous principles, that apparently govern his turbulent and aspiring disposition.

      Kohowmotoo, who was present, expressed the highest disapprobation of Tianna's conduct; saying, that if any one could be dissatisfied, he had cause to complain, that such valuable presents had been bestowed on a man who had appeared totally indifferent to our welfare, and who had never even endeavoured to render us any service. This observation was extremely well timed, and was immediately followed by the most grateful acknowledgments for the valuable articles himself and family had received. These he said, had far exceeded the utmost limits of his expectations.

      I was not less pleased with the gratitude of Kahowmotoo, than with the assurance of his being so well contented with the selection of things I had presented him, as they were on our part tributes very justly due to his steady, uniform, and friendly attention.

      Amongst other points of information that I collected at Owhyhee, I learned that Tamaahmaah, having obtained some intimation of our intended visit, had been excessively impatient for our arrival, that he might obtain an opportunity of displaying his real and true character; which he understood had been most unjustly traduced, by some of the traders who had visited, this island since he had acquired its government. Instructions had been given to several of the masters of the trading vessels by their owners, directing them to be excessively cautious of, and vigilantly on their guard against, the treacherous, villainous, and designing arts of Tamaahmaah; these unnecessary admonitions had been explained to him; and being conscious of his own innocence, his concern was excessive, and he impatiently looked forward to an opportunity of rescuing his character from such imputations, by exhibiting his real disposition to his more candid visitors.

      If what I have here had occasion to state, respecting the conduct and liberal sentiments of this chief, be not sufficient to wipe away the aspersions that have detracted from his good name, I doubt not of having yet a further opportunity of producing such facts, as will effectually accomplish that purpose.

      Tianna was not ignorant of our prepossession for Tamaahmaah's, virtues, and goodness of heart: this prompted his envy, to let no occasion escape for saying something to his prejudice and dishonour, so long as any one would listen to this favorite topic of his conversation: and it is by no means unlikely, that when he had successfully implicated the king by his artful contrivances, in his crimes and misdemeanors, he entertained the ambitious hopes to undermine our good opinion by the continual repetition of his calumnies, and to engage us to assist him in the destruction of Tamaahmaah, and the assumption of the government. But, on finding that his wishes for royalty and power were not to be gratified by our means, he experienced a disappointment that he had neither prudence to conceal, nor fortitude to support.

      As we had now no further business at Owhyhee, we made the best of our way out of the bay; but calms and light baffling winds rendered our situation nearly stationary. This afforded some of the natives an op-

portunity of shewing their dexterity in catching a small kind of bonetto; not only an amusing but a profitable employment. A small canoe is paddled as quick as possible by three or four people, whilst another is in the stern with a fishing rod, a very fine line, and a neat small hook; this hook passing swiftly through the water, is taken by the bonetto for a small fish, and to increase the deception, the angler is constantly throwing water about his hook with his hand, in order that it may be the less distinctly seen; so that almost the instant he throws it into the sea, it is taken by the bonetto. This mode of fishing was conducted with so much dexterity, that we saw great numbers taken, but did not observe one that had been hooked to escape. We were not only entertained with the sport, but it furnished an explanation of the general and rigid taboo all over the island at the time we arrived on the coast. It now appeared to have been in consequence of the season having commenced for the taking of these fish, which are exceedingly good to eat when fresh, and being caught in abundance, make a very considerable part of the food of the inhabitants when preserved and salted.

      In the evening Kahowmotoo with all the natives took their leave, after assuring us of a continuance of their friendship, and expressing the highest satisfaction and happiness at our visit. Our two countrymen, Young and Davis, bid us also farewel with a degree of reluctance that did credit to their feelings.

      It may not be improper to state in general terms, that I became perfectly convinced that the cause of these two men being left on shore at Owhyhee was not desertion, nor their own choice; nor did it arise from their having been dismissed by the commanders of vessels under whom they had served, for improper conduct and unruly behaviour; but from a series of events impossible to foresee or provide against. Their behaviour on the island had been meritorious in the highest sense of the word; supporting by their character (for they possessed nothing else) such a degree of consequence, that whilst it insured them the respect, it engaged the affections and regard, of the natives; and of no one more than of the king himself, who did not sail to listen to their counsel and advice; and I am well persuaded we had been much indebted for our

very friendly and hospitable reception, as also for the orderly and civil behaviour we experienced from the generality of the inhabitants, by their attention to the instructions and example of these our countrymen.

      That they might be encouraged to continue in the exercise of those virtuous principles which they had taught, I gave them a written testimonial of their good conduct; and in the most serious manner enjoined them to persevere in the path that their own good understanding had pointed out; and at all times to be useful and assisting to the subjects of every civilized power, who might resort to Owhyhee. From the king and the principal chiefs I obtained a promise of the continuance of their protection, not only to their persons, but to their property also; particularly, a large assortment of useful and necessary articles that I had given them, as well for their own comfort, and for the support of the consequence they had hitherto maintained, as for the purpose of introducing such things into use amongst the inhabitants.

      I appointed to meet the king and his friends, with Young and Davis, on my return to the islands from the coast of America, in the bay between the east and north-east points of Owhyhee; where I had been given to understand there was a commodious bay or port, that afforded secure and good anchorage.

      The following astronomical observations made at Karakakooa, will conclude the narrative of our transactions during our stay at Owhyhee. This island we quitted about eight in the evening, and directed our course, close hauled, towards the east end of Mowee.

CHAPTER VII.

Arrive off Mowee — Particulars relative to the murder of Lieutenant Hergest, Mr. Gooch, and others — Conversation respecting a peace with Owhyhee — Reasons for sending the Chatham to Nootka — The peace acceded to by the chiefs — Information acquired by an excursion of the boats — Departure from Mowee.

      BY day-light in the morning of the 10th of march we were well in with the eastern shores of Mowee, extending from S. 80 W. to N. 16 E.; the nearest more bore by compass N. 62 W. about a league distant. I was not certain whether the northernmost land thus seen, formed the eastern extremity of Mowee or not; from the direction of the coast it so appeared, but its distance to windward of us was so great, that it would have required some time to have ascertained the fact, and as we could not accomplish the examination of both sides of the island on this occasion, I availed myself of the prevailing favorable breeze, and bore away along the coast about 2 miles from the shore. This took a direction S. 72 W. distant 16½ miles from hence to the south point of the island; which is according to our observations situated in latitude 20° 34′, longitude 203° 36′.

      Notwithstanding that the appearance of Mowee at a distance has been very accurately represented by Captain King; yet, as we had an opportunity of being better acquainted with this part of the island than those on board the Resolution or Discovery on that voyage, it may be useful to remark, that the part we were abreast of at day-light in the morning, though terminating very abruptly in the ocean, and though its surface

was very uneven, had yet a verdant and fertile appearance, and was seemingly in an advanced state of cultivation. From the number of villages and distinct houses, we were led to consider it as tolerably well inhabited. This pleasant scene was shortly changed on our advancing a few miles to the westward. The face of the country became totally different, the shores and sides of the hills had no indications of being inhabited, and were almost destitute of vegetable productions. They appeared to be a rude mass of naked barren rocks, broken into many deep gulleys, that extended from the mountains to the water side. Beside these, were many small circular hills, that appeared to be composed either of sand or stones, and had acquired a very smooth surface of a light brown colour. Perpendicular veins separated the different strata, and descended down the mountains; these, so far as our glasses enabled us to distinguish, betokened this part of the island to have undergone some violent effects from volcanic eruptions.

      We passed the south point before mentioned at the distance of about half a mile; it is formed by rugged craggy rocks, and the sea breaks at a little distance to the north-west of it. On approaching these breakers we gained foundings, and suddenly decreased the depth of water from 25 to 10 fathoms rocky bottom; but, on hauling off shore, we almost instantly reached no bottom with 80 fathoms of line. Whilst in this situation, we were visited by a few of the poor natives from a small sandy cove, where they had some miserable habitations. The poverty of these people was apparent, by their bringing only a few small packages of salt to dispose of, and by their canoes being very small and out of repair. Two miles to the north-west of this point we were greatly inconvenienced by light baffling winds and calm weather, whilst without, or to the eastward of us, the trade wind blew strong. We continued to make a flow progress, and passed between Morokinney and Tahowrowa.

      In the afternoon, we were visited by a chief in the only decent canoe we had yet seen at Mowee. From him I learned, that he was sent by Titeeree to inquire who we were, and if we had friendly intentions towards the island. On his first question being answered, he seemed instantly

to become suspicious of the motives of our visit, in consequence of the late murders at Woahoo. The reports that had been propagated respecting this unfortunate melancholy business, made me desirous of seeing Titeeree and Taio, in order to obtain from them the real circumstances of this sad affair. This I communicated to the chief, and told him further, that if the offenders should prove to have been natives, those who were concerned should be given up to justice; but that neither Titeeree nor Taio should receive the least injury, if I found that they were innocent; and, as a pledge of my pacific disposition towards Titeeree, I returned by the chief such a present as I knew would be worthy his acceptance, and would be most likely to insure his confidence in my sincerity. I was not deficient in due acknowledgments to the messenger, in order to secure the faithful discharge of his embassy. He informed me, that the best anchorage was near the north-west part of the island, called Rahcina, and that if I would proceed thither, Titeeree would not hesitate, under this, and my other assurances of friendship, to pay us a visit. These I repeated again, and after telling him that I purposed to anchor near the spot he had pointed out, the chief departed, apparently much gratified with the execution of his commission.

      Towards sun-set we passed to the south-west of Morokinney, and meeting there a light breeze from the N. E. we worked up into a large bay on the south-west side of Mowee, lying before the low isthmus that unites the two large lofty bodies of land which compose the island. Here, about midnight, we anchored in 39 fathoms water, muddy bottom; and at day light on monday morning found we had taken a station towards the eastern side of the bay. Morokinney, and the S. E. point of Tahowrowa in a line, bearing by compass S. 11 E.; the south point of Mowee S. 39 E.; the nearest shore E. by N. two miles, and the westernmost part of Mowee in sight N. 56 W.

      The appearance of this side of Mowee was scarcely less forbidding than that of its southern parts, which we had passed the preceding day. The shores, however, were not so steep and rocky, and were mostly composed of a sandy beach; the land did not rise so very abruptly from the sea towards the mountains, nor was its surface so much broken with

hills and deep chasms; yet the soil had little appearance of fertility, and no cultivation was to be seen. A few habitations were promiscuously scattered near the water side, and the inhabitants who came off to us, like those seen the day before, had little to dispose of.

      The weather was cloudy, and the wind at the station we had taken was very unpleasant, in consequence of the trade wind from the N.E. reaching us at intervals in furious squalls, over the low land of the isthmus. A strong current setting to the S. E. at the same time, obliged us to remain at anchor, and wait for a more favorable opportunity to proceed.

      About noon we had the company of a chief named To-mo-ho-mo-ho, who said, he was younger brother to Titeeree, and that he had come by his orders to conduct us to the best anchorage at Raheina, where Titeeree himself would shortly meet us. Tomohomoho produced a certificate from Mr. Brown of the Butterworth, recommending him as a very useful, friendly, and honest man. His canoe was a very fine one; this he requested might be towed a-stern of the ship, which he recommended should get under sail that we might arrive before dark at Raheina; but in the event of any delay, directions had been given for fires to be made in such situations, as would enable him to place the ship with security.

      As the wind and weather were more settled, these requests were complied with; and thus, provided with a pilot, the Chatham and ourselves stood across the bay under double-reefed topsails, until we had shut in the isthmus; when, the high land intercepting the current of the trade wind, the gale was succeeded by light baffling airs. With these, and the assistance of the lights on the shores, we arrived at our destination about half past eight in the evening, when we anchored in 25 fathoms water, on a bottom of sand, stones, and coral.

      The next morning, we discovered our situation to be in the place pointed out in our former visit to these islands by Mr. Broughton, who then mentioned another anchoring place in Mowee, a little to the southward of a remarkable round hill, on a sandy beach, projecting its rocky base into the sea. Its top, having the appearance of a crater, acquired for it

the name of VOLCANO HILL. It lies N. 26 W., about a league from: the south point of Mowee, directly opposite to the barren and uninhabited islet of Morokinney, which lies something more than two miles from the shore of that bay. Here Mr. Broughton had sound regular foundings from 25 to 15 and 7 fathoms, within half a mile of the beach, sandy bottom. The beach, about half a mile long, appeared very convenient for landing upon; but I was given to understand, by our pilot and others of the natives, that good water was not to be procured even in small quantities within a considerable distance, and that its neighbourhood was very barren and thinly inhabited.

      In this roadstead we were pretty well protected by the surrounding land, excepting towards the S.S.W.; in which direction the wind seldom, if ever, blows violently. The Volcano hill bore by compass S. 54 E.; Morokinney S.46 E.; Tahowrowa S. 35 E. to S. 7 E.; Rannai S.54 W. to N. 78 W.; the westernmost part of Morotoi in sight N. 66 W.; and of two low projecting points of land from the shore of Mowee forming the points of the roadstead, the northernmost bore N. 26 W., distant four miles and a half; the southernmost, S.64 E. distant live miles; and the nearest shore N. E. by E., half a league distant.

      The village of Raheina is of some extent towards the north-west part of the roadstead; it seemed to be pleasantly situated on a space of low, or rather gently elevated land, in the midst of a grove of bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, and other trees; to the eastward, the country seemed nearly barren and uncultivated, and the shores were bounded by a reef, on which the surf seemed to break with so much force as to preclude any landing with our boats. In the village, the houses seemed to be numerous, and to he well inhabited. A few of the natives visited the ships.; these brought but little with them, and most of them were in very small miserable canoes. These circumstances strongly indicated their poverty, and proved what had been frequently asserted at Owhyhee, that Mowee, and its neighbouring islands, were reduced to great indigence by the wars, in which for many years they had been engaged.

      Our native pilot seemed very proud of the confidence we had reposed on his skill, in conducting the ship to this anchorage; and that the situa-

tion he had chosen in the night now met our approbation. From the moment of his coming on board, he had pleaded the cause of Titeeree and Taio with all his eloquence, and gave a positive contradiction to the reports in circulation, of the murders having been premeditated by them at Woahoo, and committed by their express orders, for the sole purpose of revenging a difference that had happened between them and Mr. Ingraham. These reports, he said, he was well aware prevailed at Owhyhee; but he denied them in the most positive terms, and asserted, that the conduct of the people at Woahoo, instead of being sanctioned by their chief, had incurred his highest displeasure; and that Titeeree on being informed of the event, sent immediate orders that the offenders should be put to death; and that in consequence of these orders three men, who were principally concerned, had been executed.

      This led me to inquire of Tomohomoho, if three people only had been implicated in that barbarous transaction? To this he replied, that there were three or four more considered as equally guilty; but that these had found means to escape, and had sled to the mountains, where they had eluded their pursuers for such a length of time, that any further search had been discontinued, and the offence had blown over, and was nearly forgotten.

      I had understood at Owhyhee, that three of the principal offenders concerned in the murder had been put to death by the orders of Titeeree; and if we revert to the circumstances attending our visit in last march, several months subsequent to the dispute with Mr. Ingraham, it is more than probable, that had any such sanguinary directions, as have been already mentioned, been issued by Titeeree, they must have been equally in force at the time we were there, as on the arrival of the Dædalus not long after our departure. And though I must confess, that our reception at Woahoo did not impress me with the most exalted opinion of their friendly and hospitable intentions, yet, they did not appear to use any means for carrying such orders into effect; although they had frequent opportunities in the course of our walks through the plantations, where they could easily have interrupted our retreat. But, admitting that the people of Woahoo were under such injunctions, as some have pretended,

and that we were indebted for our preservation to the small force that attended us, or because that day was "taboo poory," or a day of rest and prayer; yet these arguments would be insufficient on many accounts; for they could not be reconciled with the friendly, trusty, and honorable conduct pursued by the chiefs and people on our visit to Attowai, particularly on the evening of our departure. Such behaviour towards us could not possibly have been observed by a people who were under orders from their king, to kill every white man who might come within their power.

      These circumstances duly considered, render it more than probable, that Titeeree and Taio were innocent of the contrivance, and not concerned in the perpetration of the murders at Woahoo.

      The different mercantile people who had visited these islands since that unfortunate period, had taught the natives to apprehend the horror and detestation with which we regard unprovoked assassination. They had apprized them of the difference between our ships, and the trading vessels that had touched here for refreshments; that we acted, not from the orders of any private individual, but under the special authority of our sovereign, who had given me power to take cognizance of all such circumstances, and to requite the barbarity of the natives with the severest punishment.

      No hint whatever of this nature had ever escaped my lips, since the moment I had to deplore the melancholy transaction. I was nevertheless fully determined in my own mind not to omit making every inquiry, nor to suffer the crime to pass unnoticed; and, at the same time, to pursue such measures, as might appear most likely to prevent in future such unpardonable and savage proceedings.

      To the minds of the natives it now appeared a matter of great national concern; and in that point of view it was considered of such importance, as to demand from me the most particular investigation, and the most serious attention.

      Being thus fortunately possessed of so much essential information from Tomohomoho, I considered myself to be fully provided to meet Titeeree on this distressful subject, especially as I had heard with great satisfaction from

Tomohomoho, that the unfortunate commander of the Dædalus and his party had been guilty of no offence whatever, to provoke the untimely fate they had so unjustly met.

      I now came to a determination of insisting with Titeeree, that the remaining offenders should be brought to justice. Not by any measures of force in our power, but by their own means. That, on their conviction the cause of their punishment should be clearly and satisfactorily made known to the islanders, with assurances that no distance of time would in future secure any from detection, or prevent the punishment which such crimes demand.

      A pusillanimous conduct on an occasion of this nature, could not sail to sink the character of Europeans into the lowest contempt; and atrocities would become more frequent, either to satisfy the passions of the avaricious or licentious, or the revenge of any individual, who might think proper to take umbrage if not indulged in every whim that his fancy might dictate; to the disgrace of human nature, and the destruction of the adventurers engaged in the commerce of the north pacific ocean.

      In undertaking to negociate a peace on a firm and broad basis, between Owhyhee and all the contiguous islands, my views were directed to the advantage, as well as to the general happiness, of the inhabitants on all the islands. The new impressions my mind had received, tended to convince me of the important necessity for such a measure, were it only to recover the people of Mowee from the deplorable condition to which they had been reduced by an eleven years war; and, notwithstanding that they had not fought a single battle during the last two years, yet the detriment sustained by the contending parties was almost equally great. To guard their respective dominions, Tamaahmaah on the western parts of Owhyhee, and Titeeree on the eastern side of Mowee, had each assembled a large body of men. By these means, not only those parts were greatly impoverished and exhausted of supplies for the maintenance of those forces, but the inhabitants being drawn from their homes in the different districts of the country, the land was necessarily neglected, and the produce of the foil was lost for want of people to

carry on its cultivation. The war, and the vast supplies that the half famished trading vessels had recently drawn from some of these islands, had left a very scanty portion for the remaining inhabitants of Mowee, and the other islands under the authority of Titeeree and Taio. This information was communicated to me by several respectable chiefs at Owhyhee, and was now fully confirmed by Tomohomoho, particularly as to Mowee and Morotoi; he stated these as having been the principal feats of Tamaahmaah's wars, and that Rannai and Tohowrowa, which had formerly been considered as fruitful and populous islands, were nearly over-run with weeds, and exhausted of their inhabitants; nor had Owhyhee escaped the devastation consequent on her foreign and intestine disputes, which had been numerous and severe.

      Every hour produced some new intelligence, to convince me of the necessity of bringing, if it were possible, to an immediate conclusion, the ambitious pretensions of these sovereigns; being now decidedly of opinion, that a continuation of such commotions would soon desolate these islands, and render them incapable of affording those abundant and excellent supplies we had constantly derived, and without which the English traders would be ill qualified to maintain the commerce of north-west America. Whereas, if peace could be happily established, and the inhabitants be prevailed upon to be satisfied, and to live in harmony and good fellowship with each other, they would readily return to their habitations, and to their former employments, of cultivating the land, and the other peaceful arts. These occupations would be immediately resumed with great energy; and the ability of procuring European commodities, for the purpose of imitating our manners and fashions, by the produce of their own labour and ingenuity, would stimulate them to an industry and exertion, that would be attended with so abundant an increase of productions, as would render the supplies of these islands almost inexhaustible; especially, as the breed of black cattle, sheep, and goats, already introduced, when established under such happy circumstances, would soon greatly increase.

      These ideas I communicated to Tomohomoho, who listened to them with the greatest attention, and expressed much pleasure in looking forward

to so happy an event; and assured me, that Titeeree and Taio would gladly accede to the measures I had to propose, but that Kahowmotoo and Tianna were not to be trusted.

      In the forenoon we were visited by a young man, a citizen of the American states, who said that he had deserted about three months before, from the same American vessel that Smith (whom we found at Owhyhee) had left, in consequence of the ill treatment received from his commander. That he was now in the service of Titeeree, and his principal business was to visit such ships as might arrive at the island, and to order them such supplies of wood, water, and refreshments, as they might have occasion for, without their commanders having the trouble of bartering with the natives; and that on the departure of such vessels, some small acknowledgment to Titeeree the king only was expected. That in virtue of his appointment, he had done us the favour of issuing his directions to this effect. We afterwards found, however, that his authority as purveyor had been unjustly assumed, and that his orders were issued to no purpose. He likewise stated, that he was directed by Titeeree to acquaint me, that he was on his way towards the ship; but that his age and infirmities prevented him from travelling otherwise than very slowly. This message made me entertain some suspicion that the king had doubts of my sincerity; and I therefore desired that Tomohomoho would either go himself, or send some trusty person, to dispel any groundless apprehension that Titeeree might be under. To this request he instantly replied, with a smile, that Titeeree, conscious of his own innocence with respect to the offence committed at Woahoo, would have no fort of objection to trust himself in our power; and that he, Tomohomoho, had received positive directions to remain with us until the arrival of the king, to prevent any improper behaviour of the natives. All this was corroborated by a chief named Namahanna, who, with his wife, were far the handsomest couple we had seen on these islands. He was next in consequence to Titeeree, and possessed at that time in Mowee almost the sovereign power over its inhabitants. Of these but few visited us, who brought nothing to dispose of, excepting such articles as our people deemed curiosities. They conducted themselves with great propriety,

and the little traffic that was entered into, was carried on with the greatest honesty.

      On wednesday afternoon we were honored with the presence of Titeeree, who I was given to understand was considered as the king of all the islands to leeward of Owhyhee; and that from him Taio derived his authority.

      There seemed, however, nothing in his character or appearance to denote so high a station, nor was his arrival attended by any accumulation in the number of the natives on the shores, or in the canoes about the vessels. He came boldly alongside, but entered the ship with a fort of partial confidence, accompanied by several chiefs who constantly attended him; his age I supposed mud have exceeded sixty; he was greatly debilitated and emaciated; and, from the colour of his skin, I judged his feebleness to have been brought on by an excessive use of the ava. His faultering voice bespoke the decline of life; and his countenance, though surrowed by his years and irregularities, still preserved marks of his having been, in his juvenile days, a man of pleasing and cheerful manners, with a considerable degree of sensibility, which the iron hand of time had not yet intirely obliterated.

      Amongst the articles I presented to Titeeree on this occasion, was a cloak, similar to those I had given Tamaahmaah; this highly delighted him; and he was also well pleased with the other presents he received. In proportion to their rank, and the situations they held, his whole suite were complimented, and all seemed well satisfied with their visit.

      After a short conversation respecting the stay I purposed to make at Mowee, and islands to leeward, with other miscellaneous matters, I introduced the subject of a peace with Owhyhee, and was attended to with great earnestness; not only by the king, but by the whole of his attendants, who seemed unanimously desirous for the accomplishment of so beneficial an object, and a measure so important to their future happiness and tranquillity. They appeared to be perfectly convinced of my good intentions as a mediator; but the same want of confidence prevailed here as at Owhyhee. They all agreed, that no faith could be reposed in the

integrity of the Owhyhean chiefs; and that if peace was again restored, the several chiefs who had been assembled in Mowee for their general protection, would retire to their respective islands; and Mowee and its dependencies would be again left open to the invasion of Tamaahmaah, whose unconquerably ambitious spirit, they said, would not allow him to neglect so favorable an opportunity. I endeavoured to combat these prejudices by every argument I could make use of, and assured them, that I firmly believed that Tamaahmaah. and the people of Owhyhee, were as desirous of peace as they could possibly be: that the king was sincere, and that I was convinced he would mod religiously abide by such conditions as might be mutually approved. Our deliberations however drawing to no conclusion, it was agreed to adjourn the subject until the arrival of Taio from Morotoi, who was expected in the course of the following day.

      The royal party appearing to be perfectly satisfied of our friendly intentions, I demanded of Titeeree, what offence had been committed by the late Mr. Hergest, and Mr. Gooch, to occasion their having been put to death? To this question they all replied, that neither of those gentlemen, nor any other person belonging to the Dædalus, had, to their knowledge, been guilty of any offence whatever. I then requested to know, what was the reason of their having been murdered without any provocation on their part; and who was the chief that gave orders for that purpose, or that was by any other means the cause of their losing their lives? This question was also answered by the solemn declaration of the whole party, that there was no chief present on that melancholy occasion; nor was any chief in the least degree concerned; but that the murder was committed by a lawless set of ill-minded men; and that the instant Titeeree had become acquainted with the transaction, he had ordered all those who had been principally concerned to be put to death; and in consequence of his directions, three of the offenders had suffered that punishment. I then desired to know if three people only had been concerned ? The king then replied, that many were present at the time, but that only three or four more were concerned in the murder; who would likewise have suffered death, had they not found means to escape to the moun-

tains, where they had secreted themselves for some time; but that he understood they had returned, and were now living on or near an estate belonging to Tomohomoho. These protestations corresponding with the evidence before related, induced me to give credit to the asserted innocence of the chiefs, and the guilt of the persons criminated by them. As punishment ought to fall on those alone, I demanded that three, or four, who were known to have been principals in the horrid act, should be fought, and punished according to the heinousness of their crime; not by us, but by themselves, without the least interference on our part. And that the punishment of the murderers might be made as public and impressive as possible, I recommended that it should take place alongside of the ship, in the presence of the natives; and that the spectators, as well as all the absent inhabitants of the several islands, under the jurisdiction of Titeeree, or the inferior chiefs, should be made thoroughly acquainted, that the criminals had been punished for having been guilty of murder, or for aiding and assisting therein, and for that crime only; and that in future, neither chiefs, nor private individuals, who might commit such acts of barbarity, should be excused, or escape similar punishment, be the distance of time ever so great, so long as the offending parties had life, or the English continued to visit these islands.

      These propositions met not the smallest opposition, but on the contrary, much to the credit and honor of the whole party, were readily and cheerfully agreed to in every particular. This being the case, I desired that a chief might be appointed to attend us, for the purpose of carrying these resolutions into effect, and causing justice to be properly executed. After a short consultation, Titeeree nominated Tomohomoho, and invested him with due authority, not only for this function, but for the supplying of our wants, as far as the country might be able to afford.

      Being desirous that a more minute survey of this side of Mowee should be made in the boats, I acquainted Titeeree with my wishes; and in order that thefts, or other improper behaviour, might not be experienced from the different islanders they might meet, I requested that a chief

should be appointed to attend the expedition. Titeeree replied, that the orders he had issued were sufficient to answer every purpose; but, that if I was particularly desirous of the attendance of a chief, Tomohomoho should undertake the charge. Matters being thus arranged, Mr. Whidbey received my directions to proceed on this service in our cutter, accompanied by that of the Chatham; which took place accordingly early the next morning.

      In the forenoon of thursday we were again favored with the company of Titeeree and his party. Whilst our boats were engaged in the survey, Mr. Menzies wished to make an excursion into the country; and on his desire being made known to the king, together with mine, that a chief might be appointed to accompany him who should be answerable for the behaviour of the natives, Tomowha, the chief of the district, with a young chief called Tea-ow-whan-nee, were accordingly nominated for his guides and protectors.

      This young chief was one of the king's sons; he appeared to be about fifteen years of age, was well made, and had a pleasing, sensible, and open countenance. If the American sailor's information could be depended upon, this young prince was invested with very considerable power and authority. Thus guarded, Mr. Menzies, with two or three of the gentlemen and the American sailor, sat out, relying with confidence upon the declaration of the king, for experiencing every civility and attention they could possibly require.

      Titeeree, considering himself under an obligation to make some return for the handsome present he had received, brought me four small lean hogs, with a few vegetables: accompanying them with many apologies, stating that his poverty prevented him from making such acknowledgments, as his inclination directed, or his situation demanded. The present reduced condition of the island, and consequently of his wealth, had been wholly occasioned, he laid, by the ravage of Tamaahmaah's forces, who, not content with the vast quantity of provisions consumed during their stay in these islands, nor with loading their canoes with the productions of the soil, had laid waste the lauds on all sides, broken the fences of the plantations, thrown down the banks of the little canals made for

watering the crops, which were torn up by the roots; and that all the hogs, dogs, and fowls, that could not be carried away, were killed, or dispersed over the country.

      Such was the deplorable account he related of the distressed situation of Mowee, and the neighbouring islands. This had hitherto so humbled and broken the spirit of the people, that little exertion had been made to restore these islands to their accustomed fertility by cultivation; and they were at that time under the necessity of collecting provisions from Woahoo and Attowai, for the maintenance of their numerous army on the eastern parts: of the island. I expressed my concern for the calamitous state of his dominions, and took that opportunity of again pointing out the beneficial consequences that would result from a peace with Tamaahmaah; and that nothing short of this could remove or repair those serious disasters of which he so justly complained. And as I considered that the present he had brought me, though in itself small, might possibly have put him to inconvenience, I desired it might be returned; but at the same time I assured the king, that his inability to afford me a greater quantity of refreshments, would not in the least degree influence my conduct in promoting the welfare of himself and his people, or induce me to withhold such articles as would be of real utility to him.

      In the afternoon we were visited by Taio, who presented me with a feathered cloak; and in return, amongst other valuables, I presented him with one of fearlet cloth, which in a very short time he gave to his eldest brother and sovereign, Titeeree. On my asking the reason for so hasty a disposal of it, he replied, that the old king was only taking care of it for Taio; but I afterwards understood, that it was a fort of care that would free Taio from any further trouble in the possession.

      The day was too far advanced to enter at large on the interesting negociation I had fat on foot. I briefly pointed out to Taio the outline of the business, and was happy to find, that the idea of a peace with Owhyhee, seemed to afford him more pleasure and satisfaction, than had been expressed by any other chief to whom this proposal had been communicated. After a short conversation, he observed, that we had formerly been very great friends when I was at Attowai with Captain

Cook and Captain Clerke, that he still retained a very great regard for me, and hoped we should both remain in the same sentiments towards each other. That, as a proof of the sincerity of his friendship, he had still in his possession a lock of my hair, which I had given him at that period, when at the same time I refused a similar pledge to Enemo and several other chiefs, who were present on that occasion. This story, corresponding exactly with what I had heard from Tianna and Enemo the preceding year, induced me to ask where the lock of hair was To this Taio replied, that it was on shore, with some other valuable testimonies of friendship, that constantly attended him in his travels or campaigns; and that he would bring it with him in the morning.

      The circumstance of the hair having before been frequently mentioned to me, had made me endeavour to recal the person of this former friend to my remembrance; and on recollection, I suspected that Taio must have been a young chief, at that time about eighteen years of age, who had made me several presents, and who had given me many other instances of his friendly attention. But, to my great surprize, on his entering the cabin, I beheld him far advanced in years, seemingly about fifty; and though evidently a much younger man than Titeeree, yet nearly reduced to the same state of debility. If he were in reality the person I had considered him to have been, I must have been much mistaken with respect to his age on our former acquaintance; or the intemperature of that pernicious intoxicating plant the ava, which he took in great quantities, assisted by the toils of long and fatiguing wars, had combined to bring upon him a premature old age. Notwithstanding these appearances of the decline of life, his countenance was animated with great quickness and sensibility, and his behaviour was affable and courteous. His inquiries were of the most sagacious nature, respecting matters of useful information. The shrewdness of his understanding, his thirst to acquire and wish to communicate, useful, interesting, or entertaining knowledge, sufficiently indicated a very active mind, and did not fail to impress us with a very favorable opinion of his general character. Taio and his party remained on board until near dark, when they took their leave for

the night, carrying with them such presents as were suitable to their several ranks and situations.

      The bottom of the Chatham having been examined by diving, it was discovered that some of the copper had been torn off when the accidently got on shore, failing out of Nootka. On this representation from Mr. Puget, I deemed it expedient that no time should be lost in replacing the copper, and having the bottom thoroughly examined; left some more important damage might have been sustained. For this specific purpose, I gave orders that the instant her supplies of wood and water were completed, the should proceed to Nootka, and I directed Mr. Puget, on his departure from hence, to examine the north side of Morotoi; as it was my design, in visiting the other islands belonging to this group, to pass along its southern side.

      The next morning my old friend Taio was amongst the earliest of our visitors, and brought with him the look of hair. It was tied carefully round at the bottom, where it was neatly decorated with some red feathers and appeared to have been well preserved, and held in some degree of estimation. The colour corresponding with that of my own, tended to prove its identity.

      The preservation of this memorial exhibited a striking instance of similarity in the human mind, by shewing the same pledge of friendship that exists in the civilized and polished states of the world, to be held equally in estimation by the untaught inhabitants of these distant regions. These customs must certainly arise from principles innate and common to the species; since, at the time that Taio solicited and received that token of my regard, it was not possible that he should have acquired the idea from any European or other civilized person. This was one amongst innumerable instances, that occurred in our acquaintance with the uncultivated world, which served to shew the analogy of the several passions and affections, that, under every colour, clime, or in every stage of civilization, govern the human heart.

      On this occasion, I could not help feeling some internal humiliation at the superiority which the steadiness of Taio's friendship had gained

over me; by preserving the lock of my hair; by retaining, after an absence of fourteen or fifteen years, a perfect recollection of my name: and by recounting the various incidents, and the several acts of reciprocal kindness and friendship that had taken place in our former acquaintance. All these he seemed to remember with the greatest pleasure; but all these had been long obliterated from my memory.

      I trust, that my wish to pay some tribute to Taio's unshaken friendship, will be my excuse for the insertion of this otherwise unimportant subject.

      In the forenoon, the king, with Taio, Namahanna, and such other chiefs as were necessary to the occasion, being assembled in the cabin, the negociation for peace was again resumed, and the subject was discussed with much warmth amongst themselves. All their arguments tended to prove, that peace was an object of their most earnest desire, but that they doubted the possibility of obtaining its blessings, because they could place no confidence in the fidelity of Tamaahmaah. This prejudice I endeavoured to do away by all my former arguments; and, in addition, I pointed out that peace was an object as important, and as much desired, in Owhyee, as in Mowee and its dependencies: that this could not be disputed, as the king and chiefs of Owhyhee would not have solicited my interference and good offices, to accomplish this happy undertaking, had they not been instigated by these weighty reasons.

      Taio however was decidedly of opinion, that peace could not be obtained, unless I would return to Owhyhee; being convinced, that Tamaahmaah would place no reliance on any message, that should be sent from them by any of their chiefs. I told them, it was impossible for me to accede to their willies in this respect, but that I would adopt other measures which would in effect answer the same purpose, provided they were in earnest, and would faithfully abide by the stipulations I had made with Tamaahmaah, and the chiefs of Owhyhee. These I had communicated to them, and in addition had n commended, that they should by all means forget, if possible, but certainly forgive, all past enmities, and the occasions of them; all injuries and insults; and

discourage, by every effort in their power, all animosities, disputes, and wrangling, between the subjects of Titeeree and those of Tamaahmaah. And as great intemperance in the support of the question, which of these kings was the greatest and most powerful monarch ? was a grievance much complained of on both sides, and had given rise to much ill blood and contention amongst the people of the different governments; it became a matter of infinite consequence, that such conversations should be immediately prohibited. When these preparatory measures had undergone due consideration, and had been adjusted by both parties, an intercourse of confidence and friendship, I alledged, would naturally take place between the present contending powers; and such measures would then be agreed upon, as would seem to be best calculated to secure a permanent good understanding, and most beneficial to their respective interests. After repeating to them the happy consequences that would result from so wife, humane, and political a measure, in the same manner as I had represented them to Tamaahmaah, both Taio and Namahanna, but particularly Taio, with respectful formality, questioned me as to the sincerity of my views in thus strongly recommending these peaceful overtures. They desired to know the reason, why the advice I gave was so directly opposite to that of the several commanders, and people of the trading vessels, who for some time past had been their constant visitors ? who had uniformly recommended a continuance of the war with Owhyhee; had pointed out the numerous advantages they would obtain; and had supplied them with arms and ammunition, for the express purpose of carrying that advice into execution. To these interrogatories I had no mode of replying, but by producing facts that were completely within their own knowledge and observation. I stated, that such advice did not come from friends, but from persons interested, not in their happiness and welfare, but in their own aggrandizement; who, having brought with them to these countries a large assortment of arms and ammunition, as articles of trade, would be great losers by such ventures, were the inhabitants of the different islands to remain in peace and unanimity with each other; that under the happy circumstances proposed, these engines of destruction would soon fall

into low estimation; that therefore it was not surprizing, if animosity, revenge, and war were recommended, in order to enhance the value of these commodities, and by that means secure a larger supply of refreshments. That my pursuit was of a very different character they must have been well convinced, by the nature of the articles they had received, either as presents from me, or in exchange for the several productions of their country; which were such as were ornamental to their persons, or really instrumental to their welfare. That one of my most favorite objects was, to render them such services, on all occasions, as my situation could afford. Of this they would be convinced, should they think proper to adopt the pacific measures I had proposed; in which case, I would communicate their consent, by writing to the Englishman residing at Owhyhee with Tamaahmaah. On the receipt of this, I alledged, a council of the chiefs would be immediately assembled, and in the presence of a chief to be appointed by Titeeree, and entrusted with the charge of this important commission, Tamaahmaah, and the chiefs of Owhyhee, would solemnly agree to, and faithfully abide by the peace, on the terms already mentioned. And that further, to secure the performance of the promises made to me at Owhyhee, I would threaten to withdraw the friendship and good will I entertained towards that island, in case the king and the chiefs should refuse to ratify their engagement.

      Having thus explained to Titeeree and his friends, my wishes, and motives for the advancement of their happiness and welfare, I left them at full liberty either to embrace the blessings and advantages of peace, or to continue in their present calamitous state of warfare and hostility.

      After a short consultation with each other, they unanimously declared for peace.

      Without any solicitation on my part, Taio requested that, on my return to these islands, I would take him to Owhyhee, where, under my protection, he would, in person, treat with Tamaahmaah, in order that a lasting peace might be concluded, and an amicable intercourse established between Owhyhee and all the islands; and he desired that these his intentions might be made known to Tamaahmaah. This was accordingly done in my letter to Owhyhee on this subject, which was to be in-

trusted to a sensible and careful chief; who, impowered with sufficient authority, was immediately to proceed to Owhyhee, in order to negotiate this desirable business with Tamaahmaah.

      The execution of this embassy was allotted to a chief named Martier; a man, whole first appearance and deportment were likely to make unfavorable impressions; but, whose real character, I understood, was that of a shrewd, sensible fellow; and though his countenance was ferocious, yet he was remarkable for the mildness and evenness of his disposition. In all our conferences he was a principal speaker, and from the great attention paid by Titeeree and Taio to what he said. it was evident that his abilities were in great estimation.

      This favorite object being so far attained, I embraced the opportunity of a full assembly, to advert again to the inhuman murder at Woahoo. On this occasion I was stopped, rather hastily, by Titeeree, who observed, that that business was already settled; that they had full confidence in my assertions, and that I ought not to doubt them !

      Having considered a general restoration of tranquillity to these islands, and the punishment of the criminals at Woahoo, to be matters of the first importance to the safety and interests of the commercial adventurers in this ocean, they had for some time past occupied much of my attention. The prospect of the one being happily accomplished, and of the other being executed with justice, afforded my mind no small degree of satisfaction; and as, by the survey on which our boats were employed, I should obtain a perfect knowledge of the shores of this island, the principal objects that had induced my visit hither, seemed to promise a successful termination.

      As neither hogs nor other refreshments could be procured, I was anxious to quit this station. Titeeree and his counsellors were made acquainted that I intended so to do, on the return of the boats, which were expected the next morning; when, agreeably to their earnest request, I purposed to pay them a visit on shore, whilst the ship was preparing for her departure.

      They expressed much concern at the shortness of our stay, and some surprize that we should so suddenly take our leave. This I explained

was occasioned by the necessity I was under to visit other distant countries, and not from any disinclination, or want of friendship for them, as they had supposed. With this reason they became perfectly satisfied, but hoped, as I could pay them only one visit on shore, that it might be deferred until sunday morning, because the next day was taboo poory, and it would be impossible for them to receive us as they could wish. They eagerly intreated me to remain until that time, when they would repair to the ship and accompany me on shore. The same of our fire works had reached Mowee, and they added to this request an earnest desire, that their curiosity might be gratified in this respect. Taio in particular was very pressing in his solicitations, and as it was our first visit to these chiefs, whose friendship and good opinion I much wished to cultivate, I was induced to comply with their wishes; especially, as I was now satisfied that I had sufficient time for the business I had to transact this season at the other islands, and to join the Chatham at Nootka, long before the would be ready to proceed with us to the northward.

      The chiefs having succeeded in their wishes, the whole party seemed excessively happy, and returned to the shore for the purpose of attending their religious ceremonies.

      In the evening, Mr. Menzies with his party returned from the mountains, having received the greatest civility and attention from such of the natives as they had met with during their excursion; and the next morning Mr. Whidbey arrived on board, after completing the examination of the shores on this side of Mowee.

      The Chatham's cutter was sent on board, and Mr. Puget, agreeably to my directions, failed for Nootka, passing between the west end of Mowee, and the east part of Morotoi.

      Mr. Whidbey resumed his survey round the west point of Mowee; which service he performed, and returned in the evening.

      Before I close the narrative of our proceedings on this station, I shall state the result of the information obtained in Mr. Whidbey's excursion.

      During the first day the boats did not advance more than 7 miles along the shore, in a direction N.60 E., to a place called by the natives Patoa,

and reached even that with much labour and difficulty, not only in consequence of the violence of the wind, which had nearly driven them from the land, but because, in their endeavours to approach the shores, the Chatham's cutter shipped some heavy seas, and was in imminent danger of being lost. Patoa is represented by Mr. Whidbey as a roadstead affording good anchorage; its depth of water from 10 to 20 fathoms, sandy bottom; the former within half a mile, the latter about a mile of the shore, where there is an excellent run of fresh water, though the place is inconvenient for filling casks expeditiously, as the water takes its course amongst some rugged rocks over which large casks could not be rolled. This difficulty, however, might easily be surmounted by allowing the casks to remain on the beach, where the natives, for a very small reward, would soon fill them. The foundings from the ship were regular all the way to Patoa; a station easily found, by attending to the following description.

      The large bay already noticed, lying before the isthmus before mentioned, has its western side formed by high rocky precipices, that rise perpendicularly from the sea. To the westward of these precipices the coast is chiefly composed of sandy beaches, and the mountains, at some distance from the shore, form two remarkable vallies, separated from each other by a high rugged mountain, seemingly detached from the rest, and approaching nearer to the beach than those to the right and left of it. The anchorage at Patoa is a-breast of the easternmost of these vallies, which appeared to be fruitful and well cultivated.

      The boats remained at this station until the next morning, when they proceeded along shore to the eastward, and found the same foundings until they were a-breast of the rocky precipices; here they gained no ground; but, close to the shore the bottom, which is rocky, was reached with 20 fathoms of line. These precipices extend about a league from Patoa, in the line of the shore, then trend more northerly, and at the distance of about four miles join the low land of the isthmus; before this lies a reef, or rather detached patches of rocks, at the distance of near a quarter of a mile from the shore; without which the foundings are regular and good. The western side of the large bay is formed

by these precipices or cliffs; its opposite shore about four miles distant, takes a north direction from the Volcano hill; the depth of the bay is there somewhat increased; the foundings on the eastern side are regular, but very rocky.

      Nearly in the middle of its western side is a village, called by the natives Mackerrey; off this there is anchorage in 7 fathoms water, a little more than a quarter of a mile from the shore, the bottom sand and broken coral. This situation is land-locked in every direction, excepting between Tahowrowa and Rannai, where to the south-westward it is exposed about two points of the compass, but not liable I believe to much wind from that quarter. The neighbouring shores afford good landing, and, in moderate weather, the communication is easily effected; but, the neglected and impoverished state of the surrounding country offers no inducements to strangers, under its present circumstances, to make choice of it as a stopping, or resting place; though it is probably one of the best sheltered and mod convenient anchorages which these islands possess. In all likelihood, good water might with little labour be procured at a small distance to the southward of the village, from the upper part of a stream that was found rushing through the loose sand composing the beach; though just below high water mark it was somewhat brackish. The inhabitants, who are generally nice in this particular, procure their water from this run at low tide. The examination of this bay being the limits of Mr. Whidbey's excursion to the eastward, he returned to the ship; from whence he continued his researches round the western point of Raheina roadstead, and found the shores bounded by a reef, which admits of only one landing place for boats, and that a very indifferent one, at the eastern part of the village. From the ship to the shore the foundings were regular, decreasing to 5 fathoms close to the reef, extending in general about a fourth of a mile from the beach, and not exceeding that distance from the west point of the roadstead; where, on the north side of that point the reef terminates. This point, with the west extremity of Mowee, which is bold and free from rocks or other impediments, forms an excellent little bay; its outer points lie from each other N. 14 W. and S. 14 E. about a league asunder. The northern point is

formed by a round hill close to the water side, much resembling Volcano hill, but not quite so large. This bay Mr. Whidbey esteemed the most eligible anchoring place he had seen in Mowee; the foundings, in the line of the two points, from 10 to 14 fathoms, soft, sandy bottom, regularly decreased to 5 fathoms close to the beach; which is protected from the ocean, and the prevailing winds, by its north point locking in with the eastern part of the island of Morotoi. It is free from rocks, shoals, or other obstacles; and affords pleasant landing and good anchorage, where vessels may lie nearly land-locked in every direction, excepting that between Rannai and Morotoi, in the western quarter. This space, however, embraces but a small extent, from whence little danger can be apprehended.

      The day being too far spent prevented Mr. Whidbey from landing; but we were informed by Tomohomoho, that the shores of that bay afforded abundance of very excellent water. This advantage gives the bay a great preference to any other station in Mowee, especially as its ingress and egress may be effected with much ease by approaching it from the northward; as the regular trade wind may be depended upon, which without interruption or sudden gusts, blows past the bay, and enables vessels to chase in it what station they please.

      By these means a very accurate knowledge of the shores on this side of Mowee was acquired. These appeared to be more likely to afford anchorage and shelter, than those of the other islands; but, as I have already had occasion to observe, under the present impoverished state of this and the neighbouring islands, Mowee is certainly not the most desirable rendezvous for vessels employed in the commercial pursuits of this hemisphere. It is likewise necessary to add, that notwithstanding the advantages of Patoa and Mackerrey, there is great reason to suspect that the bottom at those places, as well as on all this side of Mowee, is no where good holding ground. That of the roadstead of Raheina, I am convinced, is nothing more than a very slight covering of sand, over a bed of hard coral; and the same remark seems to extend to the edge of the bank, where, in 40 fathoms water, the bottom is much softer, but the declivity of the bank is such, that with a strong wind from the shore,

vessels would not be able to retain their anchorage. By Mr. Whidbey's examination of the south-west part of Mowee, the foundings generally indicated the same deceitful bottom; this can only be discovered by anchoring upon it, as the lead only brings up the sand and small stones, which cover a bed of solid rock beneath, that the anchor cannot penetrate. Of this we had proof on two different days in the squalls of wind that came across the isthmus, which drove the vessels in whatever direction the wind chanced to blow, though they were riding with a very sufficient scope of cable. As we were not moored, I at first attributed this circumstance to the anchor being soul, but on heaving it up, this was not found to be the case; whilst the peak of the anchor, with the under part of the flock, were found much chased, by their having been dragged along the hard ground.

      Another inconvenience attending these two places, is the violent gusts, or rather gales of wind, that I believe constantly blow when the trade wind blows fresh at sea; and particularly, when it is most from the northern quarter. At these times it is most violent, and rushes with such fury over the isthmus, as to prevent all communication with the shore; and if my conjecture respecting the bottom be right, vessels would have great difficulty to maintain their stations.

      The king, Taio, and the rest of the chiefs returned according to their promise to the ship on sunday morning; and in the forenoon, accompanied by Titeeree, and some of our officers in two armed boats, with a guard of marines, I paid my compliments on shore, where the landing was but indifferent.

      We were received by the natives with the greatest civility and friendship. At the first view they appeared very numerous, being collected on a small space of ground; but when they were a little distributed, their number, including the children, did not exceed fix or seven hundred. The king conducted us through the crowd, who made way for us, and behaved in a very orderly manner. We soon arrived at his residence. This consisted of two small shabby huts, situated in a pleasant grove of spreading trees, where we were served with cocoa nuts, and other refreshments. I re-

quested that Titeeree and Taio would accompany us in a walk through the plantations; this they begged leave to decline, and pleaded their age and infirmities as an excuse. They however directed that Namahanna, Tomohomoho, and Martier should attend us, who would equally prevent the obtrusion of the curious, and render us every service.

      Attended by our guard and these chiefs, we visited the cultivated parts of the plain of Raheina; these occupied no very great extent; the part bordering on the sea shore was pleasantly laid out in plantations of taro, potatoes, sugar cane, the cloth plant, &c. tolerably well shaded by spreading trees, chiefly of the bread fruit; but in point of size, or in the luxuriance of its productions, it bore no proportion to the plains of Otaheite and of the Society islands. Through these grounds little canals were cut in various directions, that supplied the several plantations with water; the whole originating from a continual spring of excellent water, sufficiently above the level to inundate every part. The taro was growing among the water, but in a very bad state of culture, and in very small quantities. To the ravage and destruction of Tamaahmaah's a wars, the wretched appearance of their crops was to be ascribed; of this they grievously complained, and were continually pointing out the damages they had sustained. The despoiled aspect of the country was an incontrovertible evidence of this melancholy truth. Most of the different tenements in the lands formerly cultivated, were now lying waste, their fences partly or intirely broken down, and their little canals utterly destroyed; nor was a hog or a fowl any where to be seen. By far the larger portion of the plain was in this ruinous state; and the small part that was in a flourishing condition, bore the evident marks of very recent labour.

      Having extended our walk as far as our inclinations led us, and having satisfied our curiosity, we returned to the royal habitation, where we found Titeeree and Taio at dinner on raw pickled fish, and poey taro; that is, a mess made of the taro root, not unlike a hasty pudding. Sensible that we were not likely to relish such food, they had provided two very fine baked hogs which were immediately let before us, but the cook having neglected to provide any vegetables, which was a more important article to us, we declined the repast, and the chiefs having finished their meal, returned with us on board.

      As this was likely to he the last visit of Titeeree and Taio, I presented them with a large assortment of useful tools, implements, and household utensils, with cloth, linen, some beads, and other articles of ornament. To Titeeree I gave also some goats; and these being the first foreign animals imported into Mowee, were regarded as a most valuable present. The inferior chiefs and attendants were not neglected on this occasion, and I had the satisfaction to find, that my liberality had exceeded their most sanguine expectations. By this time they had become well acquainted with the noble and generous conduct; of Tamaahmaah, and our reception and treatment at Owhyhee. This they would have been happy to have imitated, had they not been prevented by the general distress of their country; but they promised to assist us on our return to the very utmost of their power and ability.

      In the evening, we had a display of fire-works from the after part of the ship, to the great terror and admiration of our visitors, and their attendants on board, and of the natives of all descriptions assembled in their canoes about the ship, comprehending most probably all the inhabitants.

      The exhibition being concluded, I expected to have taken leave of my Mowee friends, but the night being very dark, and a heavy surf breaking on the shore, the king and Taio were not much inclined to leave us, faying they should be liable to great danger in passing the reef in the dark. This circumstance induced me, though contrary to my established rule, to indulge them and the major part of their retinue with my cabin. The night was more appropriated to conversation, than to sleep. I retired to rest, but was frequently awakened, and found that their discourse was principally on the occurrences that had taken place since our arrival, and on the destructive powers of our fire-works when used in war.

      The next morning Titeeree departed in a very sudden manner, and without my knowledge. I became apprehensive that some accidental offence had been given him; but Taio assured me of the contrary, and that such was his common practice of retiring. I had indeed, before, noticed an abruptness in his leaving the ship; but on the present occasion I thought he would have shewn more respect.

Taio, Martier, and some of the other chiefs, remained with us until we failed. This we were prevented doing till near noon; when, with a light breeze from the westward, we put to sea, and they took an affectionate leave of us.

      Thus we quitted Mowee, little benefited by the refreshments it had afforded; for although I did not choose to accept the inadequate returns of the chiefs, yet every article of this fort that was brought along side for sale was purchased, and the whole did not amount to two day's subsistence.

      The mean result of our observations made between the 12th and 17th, shewed the latitude of the ship's station at Raheina roadstead, to be 20° 50′, the longitude 203° 19′. All further nautical information, relative to this anchorage and its immediate neighbourhood, will most probably be better obtained from the charts of the islands, than from any written description.

CHAPTER VIII.

Proceed to Whyteete bay — An Indian's account of the murder at Woahoo — Three of the murderers brought on board — Their trial and execution — Proceed to Attowai — Settle two female natives, found at Nootka — Quit the Sandwich islands.

      LIGHT baffling winds attended us, after leaving Raheina roadstead, until the evening, when we reached the channel between Mowee and Morotoi, where we met the regular trade wind blowing a pleasant gale. With this we stood to windward, and anchored for the night off the N.W. part of Mowee in 19 fathoms water, soft sandy bottom. Its shores extended by compass from N. 51 E. to S. 4 E., its nearest part bore E. by S. 2 miles from us, and the east point of Morotoi, N. 15 W. distant 8 miles.

      Early the next morning, with a pleasant breeze from the N. E., we stood over towards the east point of Morotoi, until we were within a league of the shore, which was bounded by a reef extending about half a league from it. Thus we sailed along to the westward, and saw several shallow breaks forming passages for boats, but not affording any shelter for shipping against the prevailing winds. About half a league south of the east point of Morotoi, which is situated in latitude 21° 9′, longitude 203° 16′, lies a small barren rocky islet, called by the natives Modooenete; and from that point the shores of the island lie S. 53 W. In this direction the land rises rather abruptly from the sea, towards the lofty mountains in the center of the east part of Morotoi; and though the acclivity was great, yet the face of the country, diversified by emi-

nences and vallies, bore a verdant and fertile appearance. It seemed to be well inhabited, in a high state of cultivation, and presented not only a rich but a romantic prospect. To the westward of these cliffs, the shores terminated in the former direction, by a low point of land, called by the natives Crynoa, and from thence they stretch N. 85 W. 8 leagues to the west point of the island. From Crynoa the country assumes a dreary aspect. The mountains, forming the eastern part of the island, gradually descend to the westward, and like those of Mowee, terminate on a low isthmus, which appears to divide the island into two peninsulas. These however bear no proportion to each other; the easternmost, which is far the largest, is composed of very high land, but the westernmost does not rife to any elevation, beyond that of a mean height. The country from Crynoa rises from the sea by an ascent, uninterrupted with chasms, hills, or vallies. This uniform surface, on advancing to the westward, exhibited a gradual decrease in the population; it discovered an uncultivated barren foil, and a tract, of land that gave residence only to a few of the lower orders of the islanders, who resort to the shores for the purpose of taking fish, with which they abound. Those so employed are obliged to fetch their fresh water from a great distance; none but what is brackish being attainable on the western parts of Morotoi. This information I had before gained from several chiefs at Mowee, and was now confirmed in it by Tomohomoho, who was accompanying us to Woahoo; and who also acquainted me, that along the shores of this south side, which are chiefly composed of a sandy beach, anchorage would be found on a clear sandy bottom. But as there were no projecting points for shelter, I did not think a further examination worth the time it would employ, and therefore proceeded to the bay at the west end of the island, for the purpose of feeing if, contrary to my former observations, it was commodious for the refitting of vessels, as it had been reported.

      We passed within about half a league of the west point of the island, situated in latitude 21° 6′ 30″, longitude 202° 43′, with regular foundings from 17 to 23 fathoms, sandy bottom. The N.W. point of the island lies from the west point N. 25 E., at the distance of 3 leagues; between these two points a commodious bay had been stated to exist;

whereas we found the whole intermediate space nearly a straight shore, composed alternately of rugged rocks and sandy beaches.

      The day being too far advanced for standing over to Woahoo, we stood to windward, and anchored for the night in 19 fathoms water, sandy and bad holding ground; as the ship would not ride with less than a whole cable, although the trade wind blew but a moderate breeze. In working up, the foundings were pretty regular from 17 to 60 fathoms, fine sandy bottom; and where we anchored, within about a mile of the breakers, the west point of the island bore by compass south, distant 4 miles; and the north-west point N. 26 E. about the same distance. Our situation here was as close into shore as vessels can lie with safety; this side of the island being intirely open, and exposed to the north and north-west winds, which blow frequently with great violence; and to a heavy sea, that is almost constantly rolling from that quarter on the shores; and which at that time broke with so much fury, that it would have been dangerous to land even in canoes.

      The country had the same dreary and barren appearance as that noticed on the south side, and I was informed it was equally destitute of water.

      With a light easterly breeze, about six o'clock on wednesday morning, we directed our course so as to sail along the north side of Woahoo. Tomohomoho objected to this mode of approach, saying, that the murderers resided near Whyteete bay, which would be the best station for us to take; for that if we went to the other side, he should have a great distance to go in search of them, by which means the offenders might get intelligence of our errand, escape into the mountains, and Titeeree would be accused of breaking his promise. There appeared so much good sense in this precaution, and so much earnestness in Tomohomoho to execute the business entrusted to him, that I did not hesitate to yield to his wishes, and postponed the examination of the north side of the island till our next visit; and we proceeded to Whyteete, where we anchored about three o'clock, in 10 fathoms water, occupying nearly our former station.

      We were visited by a few of the natives in small single canoes, who brought little or nothing to dispose of. One double canoe only made its

appearance. In this came James Coleman, one of the three men we found last year lest by Mr. Kendrick at Attowai. This man had quitted Mr. Kendrick's employ, and had entered into the service of Titeeree, why had Rationed him at this island in order to regulate the trade, and to assist such vessels as might touch at Woahoo for refreshments. This corresponded with what I had heard in support of Titeeree's character, in contradiction to the report that had been circulated, of his having issued orders for putting to death all the white men who resided in, or who might visit, his dominions.

      Coleman was accompanied by a chief named Tennavee, and a lad called To-hoo-boo-ar-to. The latter had made a voyage to China in some of the trading vessels, and had picked up a few English words that rendered his conversation very intelligible. These informed me, that they were sent by Try-too-boo-ry, Titeeree's eldest son, and governor of Woahoo in his absence, to inquire who we were, and to offer such supplies as the island afforded; though at present they could not boast of any abundance. They apologized for Trytooboory's not coming himself, as he was ill, and not able, without much pain, to walk or fit upright.

      Coleman introduced the melancholy subject of our countrymen's unhappy fate, and dated the circumstances attending it much in the same way as we had heard them at Mowee; but, for our more particular information, he referred us to Tohoobooarto, who, he said, was present, and would relate the whole of that transaction.

      Tohoobooarto dated, that he had received much civility from Mr. Hergest and the rest of the gentlemen, on his visiting the Dædalus at Whymea bay, on the opposite side of this island; that when Mr. Hergest and Mr. Gooch were going on shore, he accompanied them in the boat, to assist as an interpreter; that when they arrived at the beach, he advised Mr. Hergest by no means to land: telling him, that there was no chief present, and that it was a part of the island where a great many very bad people resided; that no attention was paid to his advice; that they went on shore, and after taking some measures, without any opposition, for procuring a supply of water, that Mr. Hergest left some directions with his people; and then, still contrary to the advice of this young man, went with Mr.

Gooch from the sea-side up to the habitations of the natives, who behaved to them in a friendly manner. At this time Tohoobooarto had left them, in order to wash himself in the fresh water, (a prevailing custom, on landing after being some time at sea) and whilst the gentlemen were absent, a dispute arose at the watering place, between the natives and the people of the Dædalus, from which an affray ensued, and the Portuguese seaman was killed. That no harm or molestation had been offered, or was intended, towards those gentlemen, who were treated civilly by the people of the village, until the news of this unfortunate transaction arrived; when, to prevent revenge taking place, it was thought necessary to put to death the chiefs whom they then had in their power; and that, in pursuance of this horrid resolution, Mr. Gooch was instantly killed by being stabbed through the heart with a pahooa; that the first blow only wounded Mr. Hergest, who, in endeavouring to make his way towards the boat, was knocked down by a large stone hitting him on the side of his head, and was then murdered in a most barbarous manner. The man who stabbed Mr. Gooch, the one who first wounded Mr. Hergest, and another who had been principally concerned at the watering place, had been, he said, apprehended by Titeeree's orders, and been put to death. To assure us of his having been present, and having interfered to save Mr. Hergest, he pointed out the fear of a wound in his left arm, which he said he had received on that occasion; and further added, that the man who knocked down and murdered Mr. Hergest, with two or three others materially concerned, were still living, and resided not far from our then anchorage. The former of these he had pointed out a few days before to Coleman. I inquired of Coleman, if he had ever heard this young man tell this melancholy story before? who instantly replied, that he had, and precisely as it was then related; which corresponded with the account he had received from other natives, and that he believed it to be a very true statement.

      After Tohoobooarto had finished his account, he was questioned by Tomohomoho, about the residence of the offenders, who desired that he would accompany him and Tennavee for the purpose of apprehending the delinquents, and bringing them to justice. At first, Tohoobooarto declined engaging, fearing the friends and relations of the offenders would murder

him; but on being assured of protection by Tomohomoho, he consented, and the whole party made the best of their way to the shore. I intrusted to Coleman a present of red cloth, and some other things, as a pledge of my good will and friendly disposition towards Trytooboory; as also an axe, and other articles, to Tomohomoho, which he requested to be the bearer of for the same purpose.

      The next forenoon, Coleman with Tomohomoho and Tennavee came on board. As no one appeared like a prisoner in the canoe, I inquired of Coleman if the murderers were in custody ? He said, he believed they were, but did not positively know, as the business after landing the preceding evening, had been conducted by the chiefs with the most profound secrecy; that he had seen nothing of the party during the whole of the night, nor till they were about to put off from the beach, when he jumped into the stern of the canoe. The two chiefs desired I would attend them into the cabin; where, after shutting all the doors, they informed me, that the man who had murdered Mr. Hergest, with two others who had been equally active and guilty, were in the fore part of the canoe, and that no time should be lost in securing them, left any thing should transpire, and they should again make their escape. Orders were immediately given for their being admitted into the ship, and they soon were brought into the cabin.

      The chiefs now pointed out the principal offender, whose appearance corresponded with the description given by Tohoobooarto. One half of his body, from his forehead to his feet, was made jet black by punctuating; the other two men were marked after the same manner, but not with the same regularity. These appearances alone would not have been sufficient to have identified their persons, as we had seen many of Titeeree's subjects disfigured after the same barbarous fashion; which I understood had been adopted in the late wars, for the purpose of increasing the ferocity of their appearance, and striking their enemies with terror.

      Tohoobooarto was not present as a witness against the accused persons; this I very much regretted, but as there was great probability that Coleman's evidence would confirm what the chiefs had asserted, he was

called in. After stedfastly surveying their persons, he pointed out the same man whom the chiefs had accused as the murderer of Mr. Hergest, but said, that he had no knowledge of the other two.

      Notwithstanding Coleman's corroborative evidence, I much wished for further proof before I sanctioned their punishment; and having heard that Mr. Dobson, one of the midshipmen who came out in the Dædalus, had spoken of one of the natives, who, when alongside on that occasion, had been remarked for his insolence and improper behaviour; and who, the instant the boat with Mr. Hergest put off from the ship, had paddled hastily to the shore, where he landed, became very active in the affray, and was, in the unanimous opinion of the crew, suspected to have been the principal, if not the sole cause, of the calamity that followed; I having therefore called upon Mr. Dobson, and allied him if he had any recollection of the prisoners; he without the least hesitation, pointed out the same man who stood accused as the person who had acted the part above described, and was ready to make oath to his identity.

      These proofs, though not positive, were yet so circumstantial as to leave little doubt of this man's guilt; but, as the evidence of Tohoobooarto would be still an additional confirmation, I desired Tennavee would repair to the shore and bring him on board, that the criminals might be fairly tried, and that we might have the fullest satisfaction of their guilt which the nature of the case would afford. During this interval, I ordered the prisoners into confinement, until further testimonies should be produced to criminate or acquit them.

      Tomohomoho disliked much the delay of punishment, and requested that the prisoners might be immediately executed; but I persisted in the exercise of my own feelings and judgment. On questioning him concerning a fourth man, who had been implicated in the murder, he acknowledged, that there was a fourth who had been very materially concerned; but said, that all he could learn about him was, that he had been seen in the neighbourhood some months before; and as he had not lately made his appearance, it was by no means certain whether he was then on the island, or had gone to some of the others. Under all circumstances

there appeared little probability of this man being taken, especially when the news of the three others being in custody should be spread abroad. This determined me not to insist upon any further search, on the conviction that it would be neither prudent nor proper to adopt any measures of force to effect an object, that want of time might oblige me to abandon and leave unaccomplished.

      In the afternoon Tennavee returned without Tohoobooarto. At this I was not less concerned than surprized, and could not but consider his absenting himself as an indication of some misconduct. The two chiefs assured me I need be under no such apprehensions, as they were certain it was only the fear of revenge from the relations and friends of the delinquents that prevented his attendance. Despairing of his evidence we had only one further appeal. This was to know from Trytooboory, the chief of the island, if he believed these were the identical people guilty of the offence? and as his indisposition prevented him from coming on board, I desired Terrehooa, who could not be at all interested in any event that might take place, and who had conducted himself with great fidelity during twelve months he had been on board, to accompany Coleman, and make this inquiry of Trytooboory. This they accordingly performed, and returned in the evening.

      Terrehooa declared, that Trytooboory had positively pronounced that all three of the prisoners were guilty of the murder with which they were accused. This Coleman confirmed, and added, that the chief desired they might be immediately punished with death. To this declaration Coleman made oath, in the most solemn manner, in the presence of myself and all the officers of the ship, who had attended the investigation in the morning; and who, having maturely considered the business, were unanimously of opinion with me, that justice demanded exemplary punishment, in order to stop, or at least to check, such barbarous and. unprovoked outrages in future.

      It was clearly established in the course of the examination, by the testimonies of all the natives who were questioned, that neither those two unfortunate gentlemen, nor the people in the boats, had given the least cause for umbrage. This certainly aggravated the crime. After much in-

quiry it did not appear that any other witnesses could be procured. And though we could have wished to have had more satisfactory proof of the criminality of the persons in custody, yet as they had been apprehended by their own people, accused and convicted by their own neighbours, and condemned by their own chief, it was, after the most serious deliberation and reflection, deemed sufficient to authorize the execution of the three prisoners; but as the day was too far spent it was deferred until the next morning, contrary to the wishes of the chiefs, who were very desirous of its immediately taking place. When they returned to the shore, I desired they would use their endeavours to find out and bring on board every person, that might be able to prove the innocence of the persons in custody. This injunction was treated with indifference, because they were perfectly convinced no such persons could be found. And as I wished that as many of the natives as could be collected, should witness the awful punishment that the prisoners had brought upon themselves by their barbarity, I desired also that they would make it publicly known that the execution would probably take place the next forenoon.

      On friday morning a few of the natives were about the ship, but not so many as on the former days. After breakfast, Coleman, with Tomohomoho and Tennavee, came on board. The two latter demanded the immediate execution of the prisoners. This however was not complied with, as it was deemed right that they should again be accused by their own chiefs, in the presence of all the witnesses, of the crime with which they stood charged, in order, if possible, to draw from them a confession of their guilt, and to renew the opportunity which before had been given them, of producing some evidence in proof of their innocence. Nothing however could be extorted from any of them, but that they were totally ignorant of any such circumstance having ever happened on the island. This very assertion amounted almost to self-conviction, as it is not easy to believe, that the execution of their comrades, by Titeeree's orders, for the same offence with which they had been charged, had not come to their knowledge, or that it could have escaped their recollection.

      Neither myself nor my officers discovered any reason, from the result of this further examination to retract or alter our former opinion of their guilt, or of delivering them over to their own people, to be dealt with according to the directions of their chief.

      Before they went from the ship, they were placed in irons on the quarter-deck; where, in the presence of all the ship's company, I recapitulated the crime which they had committed, the evidence that had been adduced against them, and the condemnation of their chiefs, and stated, the punishment that was now to be inflicted. All this was likewise made known to the Indian spectators who were present.

      That the ceremony might be made as solemn and as awful as possible, a guard of seamen and marines were drawn up on that side of the ship opposite to the shore, where, alongside of the ship, a canoe was stationed for the execution. The rest of the crew were in readiness at the great guns, left any disturbance or commotion should arise. One ceremony however remained yet to be performed. One of these unfortunate men had long hair; this it was necessary should be cut from his head before he was executed, for the purpose of being presented, as a customary tribute on such occasions, to the king of the island. I was shocked at the want of feeling exhibited by the two chiefs at this awful moment, who in the rudest manner not only cut off the hair, but, in the presence of the poor suffering wretch, without the least compassion for his situation, disputed and strove for the honor of presenting the prize to the king. The odious contest being at length settled, the criminals were taken one by one into a double canoe, where they were lashed hand and foot, and put to death by Tennavee, their own chief, who blew out their brains with a pistol; and so dexterously was the melancholy office performed, that life sled with the report of the piece, and muscular motion seemed almost instantly to cease.

      If steadiness and firmness, totally devoid of the least agitation, can be considered, in the performance of such a duty, as a proof of conscious rectitude; or that the forfeiture of these three men's lives was considered as no more than what the strict principles of retributive justice demanded, it should seem that Tennavee's mind had been completely

made up, not only as their judge, but their executioner; and that he was perfectly convinced his conduct, was unimpeachable, in executing an office that justice demanded.

      The whole of Tennavee's deportment, on this sad occasion, afforded us additional cause to believe, that the persons executed were wholly guilty of the murder, and that the chiefs had not punished the innocent to screen themselves.

      This public example, made so long after the crime was committed, we had reason to hope, would convince the islanders, that no intervention of time would, in future, prevent justice taking its regular course; and that any one who should dare to commit such barbarities would, sooner or later, suffer punishment.

      The dead bodies were taken to the shore, attended by most of the natives who were present at the execution, and who, on this occasion, observed some small degree of solemnity, by paddling slowly towards the island. When they had gained about half the distance between the ship and the shore, they stopped, and some lamentations were heard, that continued, I believe, until they were landed.

      I had proposed that the dead bodies should each be hung upon a tree near the shore, to deter others from committing the like offences; but Tomohomoho informed me, that such spectacles would be considered as very improper, contrary to their religious rites, and would greatly offend the whole of the priesthood. That such an exposure was totally unnecessary, as all the inhabitants would become fully acquainted with every circumstance attendant on their trial and execution, and the crime for which they had justly suffered; and that he verily believed their fate would have the good effect of restraining the ill-disposed in future. I inquired of him, why so few of the natives had attended on this awful occasion? He replied, it was in consequence of the message I had sent on shore to require it. This had created suspicions, arising, he said, from the former conduct of Europeans, on disputes or misunderstandings taking place between the chiefs and the commanders. Some of these, under the pretext of re-established friendship, would prevail on many of the inhabitants to come off to their ships, where they

would, as usual, enter into trade with the natives, until great numbers were assembled; the commanders then ordered them to be fired upon, which continued, without mercy, as long as any of the canoes were within shot. Tomohomoho stated, that two or three instances of this barbarous nature had taken place, as well by the English as the American traders, and which was the reason why my invitation had been distrusted.

      The two chiefs solicited my visiting Trytooboory, saying, if he had not been so ill, he would have been with us during the late unpleasant business; and that he was very desirous of seeing me, that he might be better convinced of my friendship and good inclinations towards him. I should certainly have complied with this request, had there been any object whatever to attain. Although I did not entertain any apprehension for the safety of myself, or any person belonging to the ship, whilst under the protection of the chief, yet I did not consider it prudent, whilst the execution of the criminals was so fresh in the minds of the people, to throw temptations of revenge in the way of the daring and ill-disposed part of the society, by placing myself and others in their power on shore. Should my confidence, on making the trial, prove ill-grounded, I should stand self-accused, in having so unnecessarily opened the channel for a fresh effusion of blood. Their civil invitations were, for these reasons, declined, seemingly much to their mortification. I was not however at a loss to relieve them of the disappointment, provided their intentions were as pure as their professions.

      As the only object the two chiefs had in view, was stated to be an interview between me and Trytooboory, whole indisposition, and the want of a proper conveyance, prevented him coming on board, I proposed, as the day was remarkably fine and pleasant, to make a commodious platform on a double canoe, on which he might with great ease come alongside, and then if he found himself inclined to come on board, he should he hoisted in by means of a chair, or I would converse with him on the platform, and render him any medical or other assistance. With this proposal they appeared to be as well satisfied as if I had

visited him on shore, and Coleman, with Tennavee, immediately departed to communicate this plan to the chief; to whom also, the better to insure his confidence, I again sent a present of red cloth and other articles. These had the desired effect;, and the messengers soon returned accompanying Trytooboory, who, without the least hesitation, desired he might be hoisted into the ship, which he entered, and was placed on the quarter-deck with the most implicit confidence.

      Trytooboory appeared to be about thirty-three years of age, his countenance was fallen and reduced, his emaciated frame was in a most debilitated condition, and he was so totally deprived of the use of his legs, that he was under the necessity of being carried about like an infant; to these infirmities was added, a considerable degree of fever, probably increased by the hurry and fatigue of his visit.

      The usual compliments, and mutual exchange of friendly assurances, having passed, I requested the favor, of his company below; to this with much pleasure he assented, but no sooner were his intentions known to the natives in the canoes about the ship, than a general alarm took place, and he was earnestly recommended not to quit the deck; from a suspicion, as I imagined, amongst the crowd, that the works of death were not yet finally accomplished. Trytooboory however disregarded all remonstrances, and ordered the people who were carrying him in the chair, and who, in consequence of the alarm, had stopped, to proceed to the cabin, where he found a comfortable resting place, and appeared to be perfectly at home. He then informed me, that he had not been ill above sixteen or eighteen days; and as Mr. Menzies had now inquired into the nature of his disorder, and had prepared him some medicines, I gave him hopes that his health would soon be reinstated.

      Notwithstanding his indisposition, his conversation was cheerful and pleasing; and I had the happiness of hearing him confirm every part of the evidence, that had been given against the three unfortunate wretches who had suffered in the morning. He spoke of them all as being equally guilty, and of having always borne extremely bad characters; and said there were many others of the same description at Woahoo, but hoped

the example of the morning would be the means of frightening them into a more discreet mode of behaviour.

      The proposed peace with Owhyhee was next adverted to. He highly applauded the measure, and said, if such a business could be effected, it would be of the utmost importance to them; as the chiefs and people would then return to their habitations; by this means the country would be better governed, the lands better cultivated, and, by the production of a greater abundance from the soil, they would be enabled to procure a more ample supply of European commodities. The same want of confidence however that the contending parties entertained, was evident in the opinions of this chief; and although the negociation at Mowee had put on a favorable appearance, I began to fear this unfortunate prevailing sentiment would be fatal to the establishment of a general and permanent peace. He likewise took an opportunity to apologize, and to express his concern, that the reduced state of the country precluded his making me any suitable return for the obligations I had conferred upon him. In reply, I made him a similar answer to that given his father at Mowee; adding, that on a future visit he might probably have more to spare, and I less to beslow.

      The same of our fire-works still attended us, and Trytooboory was very solicitous to be indulged with a fight of their effect. Considering that the present moment afforded no ill-timed opportunity to impress the minds of these people more deeply with our superiority, his curiosity was gratified in the evening, by the display of a small assortment, from the after part of the ship. These were beheld by the surrounding natives with more than the usual mixture of the passions already described; for, on the present occasion, they were regarded with a degree of awful surprize, that I had not before observed. This exhibition being finished, Trytooboory was conveyed into his canoe, in the same manner as he had entered the ship. Before his departure I complimented him with some additional articles, and with these, as well as his reception and entertainment, he seemed highly delighted.

      With a pleasant breeze from the westward, on sunday morning we plied to the windward, along the south fide of Woahoo, until the after-

noon, when we anchored abreast of the westernmost opening or lagoon, mentioned in our former visit to this island, called by the natives O-pooro-ah, and which had since been reported to us, by the natives, as capable of admitting vessels by warping into it. About half a mile from the reef that binds these shores, we found the foundings irregular from 5 to 15 fathoms, rocky bottom; but where the ship rode, the bottom was tolerably even, and composed of sand and coral; the depth of water, about half a league from the reef, was 25 fathoms. The evening was too sail approaching to investigate the truth of the report given by the natives. This was deferred until day-light the next morning, when Mr. Whidbey, with two armed boats, accompanied by Tomohomoho, was dispatched for that purpose.

      The part of the island opposite to us was low, or rather only moderately elevated, forming a level country between the mountains that compose the east and west ends of the island. This tract of land was of some extent, but did not seem to be populous, nor to possess any great degree of natural fertility; although we were told that, at a little distance from the sea, the soil is rich, and all the necessaries of life are abundantly produced.

      Whilst we remained in this situation, a few only of the natives paid us their respects; their canoes were small and indifferent, and their visit was that of curiosity only, as they were furnished with little for barter.

      Mr. Whidbey returned in the forenoon. He found the opening in the reef, about four hundred yards wide, to be occupied by a sandy bar about two hundred yards across, on which there was not more than nine or ten feet water; but on each side of it the water suddenly increased in depth to 5 and soon to 10 fathoms. These foundings were regular on each fide of the bar; on the inside the bottom is a stiff mud, or clay; this, with the same foundings, continued to the entrance of a small harbour about half a mile within the bar, formed by two low sandy points, about the same distance asunder. From each of these sandy points extended a shallow flat, near a cable's length on either side, contracting the width of the deep-water channel to not more than the

fourth of a mile; in this is 10 fathoms water; but the entrance is again further contracted by a sunken rock, stretching nearly into mid-channel from the northern shore, with which it is connected; on this was found only two feet water, although the depth is 10 fathoms within a few yards of it. From the entrance, this little harbour about a quarter of a mile wide, took a north-westerly direction for about a mile; the depth from 10 to 15 fathoms, muddy bottom; it then seemed to spread out, and to terminate in two bays, about a mile further to the northward, forming a very snug and convenient little port. Unfortunately, the bar without renders it fit only for the reception of very small craft.

      Mr. Whidbey, under this impression, lost no time in any further examination, but returned to the ship; and as I was now very anxious to proceed on our voyage, no delay for matters of little importance could be admitted. Mr. Whidbey observed, that the soil in the neighbourhood of the harbour appeared of a loose sandy nature; the country low for some distance, and, from the number of houses within the harbour, it should seem to be very populous; but the very few inhabitants who made their appearance was an indication of the contrary. At the time the bar was founded, it was low water, and Mr. Whidbey being unacquainted with the rife and fall, was not able to say what depth there might be on the bar at high tide.

      The other opening to the eastward, called by the natives Honoonoono, Tomohomoho represented as being much more shallow, and a smaller place; this induced me to pass it without examination; but to shew how liable we are to be mistaken in such inquiries amongst the natives, I was afterwards informed, by Mr. Brown of the Butterworth, that although it is smaller, and of less depth of water, yet it admits of a passage from sea 5 fathoms deep between the reefs; and opens beyond them into a small but commodious bason, with regular foundings from 7 to 3 fathoms, clear and good bottom, where a few vessels may ride with the greatest safety; but the only means of getting in or out is by warping.

      About noon, with a light breeze from the S.S.W., we weighed, and flood to windward; and in the afternoon, our very attentive and useful friend Tomohomoho, having executed all his commissions, and ren-

dered us every service and assistance in his power, bad us farewel. On this occasion I presented him with such an assortment of articles as afforded him the highest satisfaction. Of these he was richly deserving, from the uniformity and integrity of conduct that he had supported from the first to the last moment of his being with us.

      We found the western side of Woahoo lie in a direction from its S.W. point N. 25 W., 6 leagues to the west point of the island, which forms also the S.W. point of Whymea bay. The S.W. side of the island is principally composed of steep craggy mountains, some descending abruptly into the sea, others terminating at a small distance from it, whence a low border of land extends to the sea-shore, formed by sandy beaches, chiefly bounded by rocks, over which the surf breaks with great violence.

      From these shores we were visited by some of the natives, in the most wretched canoes I had ever yet seen amongst the South-Sea islanders; they corresponded however with the appearance of the country, which from the commencement of the high land to the westward of Opooroah, was composed of one barren rocky waste, nearly destitute of verdure, cultivation, or inhabitants, with little variation all the way to the west point of the island. Not far from the S.W. point is a small grove of shabby cocoa-nut trees, and along those shores are a few draggling fishermen's huts. Nearly in the middle of this side of the island is the only village we had seen westward from Opooroah. In its neighbourhood the bases of the mountains retire further from the sea-shore, and a narrow valley, presenting a fertile cultivated aspect, seemed to separate, and wind some distance through, the hills. The shore here forms a small sandy bay. On its southern side, between the two high rocky precipices, in a grove of cocoanut and other trees, is situated the village, and, in the center of the bay about a mile to the north of the village, is a high rock, remarkable for its projecting from a sandy beach. At a distance it appears to be detached from the land. Between this and the high rocky point to the south of the village, is a small bank of foundings, that stretches some distance into the sea. On the south side of this bank the foundings were irregular, from 25 to 8 fathoms, rocky bottom; but, to the north of it,

near the rock, no ground could be reached with 90 and 100 fathoms of line, though not more than the fourth of a mile from the shore; this we found to be the cafe also a little to the southward of the bank. In both these places we were for some time very awkwardly situated, without wind, yet with a swell and current that set us so fast towards the land, that I was under some apprehension for the safety of the ship, as the united force of the current and swell prevented any effect from the assistance of the boats; from this dilemma however we were happily relieved, by a breeze springing up, that enabled us to increase our distance from the land.

      The few inhabitants who visited us from the village, earnestly intreated our anchoring, and told us, that if we would stay until the morning, their chief would be on board with a number of hogs, and a great quantity of vegetables; but that he could not visit us then because the day was taboo-poory. The face of the country did not however promise an abundant supply; the situation was exposed, and the extent of anchorage was not only very limited, but bad; under these circumstances, having, by eleven at night, got clear of the shores, I deemed it most prudent to make the bell of our way, with a light S.E. breeze, towards Attowai.

      We had not. reached more than half way between the two islands, by noon the next day; when the observed latitude was 21° 19′, longitude 201° 18′. In this situation Woahoo extended, by compass, from S. 88 E. to S. 64 E., and Attowai N. 70 W. to N. 87 W. The weather was now calm, and continued so all the afternoon; this gave to some of the islanders, who were passing from Attowai to Mowee, an opportunity to visit the ship. The foremost of these, undertaking so distant a voyage in a single canoe, much attracted our attention; on her coming alongside, she proved to be without exception the finest canoe we had seen amongst these islands. This vessel was sixty-one feet and a half long, exceeding, by four feet and an half, the largest canoes of Owhyhee; its depth and width were in their proportion of building, and the whole of the workmanship was finished in a very masterly manner.

      The size of this canoe was not its only curiosity, the wood of which it was formed was an infinitely greater, being made out of an exceedingly fine pine-tree. As this species of timber is not the produce of any of these islands, and as the natives informed us it was drifted by the ocean, it is probably the growth of some of the northern parts of America.

      This, it seems, was left on the east end of Attowai, in a perfectly found state, without a shake or a bruise. It remained there unwrought for some time, in the hope of a companion arriving in the same manner. In this cafe, the natives would have been enabled to have formed the grandest double canoe these islands could boast of; but their patience having been exhausted, they converted the tree into this canoe; which, by the lightness of its timber, and the large outrigger it is capable of supporting, is rendered very lively in the sea, and well adapted to the service it generally performs, — that of communicating intelligence to Taio, whilst: he is absent from the government of his own dominions.

      The circumstance of fir timber being drifted on the northern sides of these islands is by no means uncommon, especially at Attowai, where there then was a double canoe, of a middling size, made from two small pine-trees, that were driven on shore nearly at the same spot. Some logs of timber, with three or four trees of the pine tribe, were then lying on the island, that had at different times been lodged by the sea, but were too much decayed and worm-eaten to be usefully appropriated.

      As this kind of timber is the known produce of all the northern part of the west side of America, little doubt can remain of these trees having come from that continent, or its contiguous islands; since it is more than probable, that if any intervening land did exist between the Sandwich islands, and the countries on every side of them, and particularly in the direction of the prevailing winds, such would have been discovered before now. And hence we may conclude, that trees do perform very distant voyages, and sometimes arrive in a found state at the end of their journey. This instance alone will be sufficient to develope the mystery attending the means by which the inhabitants of Easter

island procure their canoes, since the distance of that island from South America, is not so far by 80 leagues as Attowai is from the shores of North America.

      The object of this canoe expedition, we learned, was to inform Taio of some commotions that had arisen against the government of Enemo the regent. But these having been timely opposed, they had subsided, without any loss on the part of Enemo, or his adherents; whilst on the side of the conspirators, two chiefs and five men had been killed, and some others wounded, who had made their escape to the woods.

      The leg bones of the two unfortunate chiefs were in the canoe, and had some of the sinews and flesh still adhering to them; in this state they were to be presented to Taio, as trophies of victory over the rebels. This large single canoe was charged with the official dispatch and important part of the business, whilst the others were employed in conducting a certain number of the ring-leaders as prisoners to Taio, for his examination, and sentence on their conduct. Amongst these were several of his nearest relations; one in particular was his half-sifter, who had also been his wife or mistress, and had borne him some children.

      The charge of this embassy was intrusted to a young chief, about twenty-two years of age, named Oeashew. Our meeting him must be considered as rather a singular circumstance, as the business that had carried Poory to Mowee, (a chief we had taken on board at Woahoo, and was on his return home to Attowai) had been some matters of importance relative to the government of that island; in consequence of which Titeeree and Taio had appointed this young man chief of the district of Whymea, one of the most important trusts on the island; where his presence at this time was considered as highly necessary. Poory requested I would permit Oeashew to return in the ship to Attowai, which being granted, the latter instructed another chief with the purport of his commission. This occupied them in very secret conversation for about half an hour; when, the charge being properly and completely transferred, the canoes pushed off, and made the bed of their way towards Woahoo, where they expected to arrive early the next morning, having quitted Attowai at sun-set the preceding evening.

      During the night the wind was light from the northward, but in the morning it freshened to a pleasant, though unfavorable, breeze, that prevented our weathering the north-east point of Attowai, as I had intended, for the purpose of examining its northern shores. The water being smooth, and the wind steady in force and direction, I was in hopes we should have been able to beat round it, until we had approached the shores; when it became evident we were in a strong current setting to leeward.

      I however did not wish to abandon hastily the project I had in view, and therefore, about nine o'clock, we tacked about two miles from the shore, then extending, by compass, from N. 8 W. to S. 20 W.; these extremities, which lie from each other N. 14 E. and S. 14 W., are each formed by low land, are about nine miles asunder, and constitute what may he deemed the east side of the island. The former in a rounding point projects into the ocean, from a very remarkable forked hill, that is, in a great measure, detached from the rest of the connected mountains of the island. The latter extends from a range of low hills that stretch along the coast, at a small distance within the beach. Beyond these hills, towards the foot of the mountains that are at some distance from the shore, the country presented a most delightful, and even enchanting, appearance; not only from the richness of its verdure, and the high date of cultivation in the low regions, but from the romantic air that the mountains assumed, in various shapes and proportions, clothed with a forest of luxuriant foliage, whose different shades added great richness and beauty to the landscape.

      About a league to the south of the southern extremity, lies the south-east point of the island, formed by a bold, bluff, barren, high, rocky head land, falling perpendicularly into the sea. Between this and the low point is a small cove, accessible for boats only, where, near a rivulet that flows into it, is a village of the natives. This part seemed to be very well watered, as three other rapid small streams were observed to flow into the sea within the limits above mentioned. This portion of Attowai, the most fertile and pleasant district of the island, is the principal residence of the king, or, in his absence, of the superior chief,

who generally takes up his abode in an extensive village, about a league to the southward of the north-east point of the island. Here Enemo the regent, with the young prince Tamooerrie, were now living; who sent Williams (the Welchman mentioned in our former visit) to acquaint me, that, in the course of the forenoon, they would visit the ship, if we were near enough the shore for them to embark. I understood from Williams, that we had gained so much on the esteem and regard of Enemo, the young prince, the principal chiefs, and others, on our last visit, that, for a great length of time, the hogs, and every other production of the major part of the island, had been tabooed, in order that on our arrival our wants might be amply supplied. Of these kind intentions we were made acquainted before our departure from Owhyhee; but I knew too well the little regard that the whole of the great South-Sea nation of islanders bear to truth, to rely implicitly on such tales; and it was very fortunate that I did not, and that I had availed myself of the bounty of Tamaahmaah, and the rest of our Owhyhean friends: for I was given to understand, that, in consequence of our having exceeded the period of our promised return, the pressing demands of the trading vessels, and the extravagant prices paid by their commanders, in firearms, ammunition, and other commodities, for such things as their necessities or fancies prompted them to purchase, the regent had been prevailed upon to suspend the interdiction, under the persuasion that we should not return, and that most of the supplies had been disposed of. Some few hogs, I found, might probably be procured from the north side, and I was happy to discover, that the few supplies we were likely to obtain, were in the route I wished to pursue; but I was again mortified, on hearing that the current fat, almost without intermission, from the N.W. along the north side of the island; and following the direction of the shores, on the southern and western sides of the island, caused a stream almost always round it; so that the easiest mode of arriving at the north-east point, now scarcely more than 2 leagues distant, was to sail to leeward round its west extremity, and then to turn up along its northern side, which Williams informed me afforded no shelter, nor convenient anchorage, for shipping. Several vessels, he said, since he had been at

Attowai, had fallen, as we had done, to leeward of the north-east point, and all their attempts to beat round it proved ineffectual; one vessel only having succeeded after a week's trial, and which then passed the point merely by an accidental spirt of wind from the southward.

      Williams confirmed also the account of the insurrection that we had heard the preceding day. He dated, that the disaffection had been produduced by the conduct of the regent Enemo, (or, as he is frequently called, Attaia); that no harm was meditated against Taio, or his son Tamooerrie; but, on the contrary, it was the general wish of the people, that the young prince would either direct the government himself, or that Taio would appoint some other person to officiate in his absence, until his son should be considered equal to the task. The principal dislike to the regent, arose from his having put several people to death, and confiscated the property of others, for having been suspected of witchcraft; a notion that universally prevails, and is confided in by the generality of the people belonging to the Sandwich islands. It seemed, by his account, to have been a fortunate circumstance, that the insurrection was discovered in its infancy, and that he and Rowbottom, with five other English or American sailors (who since our last visit had deserted from different trading vessels) had sided with the governor, as, on their instantly attacking the leaders of the rebellion it was easily quelled. This circumstance was afterwards mentioned by the natives, who spoke in the highest terms of their courage, and propriety of conduct.

      We again stood in shore, and about noon were honored with the presence of Enemo.

      On this occasion, I expected much satisfaction in the renewal of our former acquaintance; but instead of deriving any pleasure in our meeting, I experienced sensations of a very opposite nature the instant he entered the ship. His limbs, no longer able to support his aged and venerable person, seemed not only deserted by their former muscular strength, but their substance was also intirely wafted away, and the skin, now inclosing the bones only, hung loose and uncontracted from the joints, whilst a dry white scurf, or rather scales, overspread the whole

surface of his body from head to foot, tended greatly to increase the miserable and deplorable appearance of his condition; and I was not a little shocked and surprized that one so wretchedly infirm, should have taken the painful trouble of this visit. The compliment was a very flattering one, and I did not sail to receive it as it was intended, by acknowledging myself considerably obliged.

      Notwithstanding his corporeal infirmities, and the decline of his life, he still supported a cheerful degree of spirits, said he was very happy to see us, and much concerned that we had not arrived on an earlier day, according to our promise, when he should have had an abundant quantity of refreshments for our use, and lamented that those supplies were now greatly exhausted. I acknowledged that it was our misfortune, not his fault, that we had not arrived at the time appointed; thanked him for the interest he had preserved, and the attention he had shewn to our welfare during our absence; and rewarded his friendship by presents similar to those I had made the principal chiefs of the other islands. With these he was highly gratified, especially with the scarlet cloak, and a complete set of armourer's tools. These are in high estimation, as these people are fond of forming the iron for their several purposes after their own fashion.

      Enemo remained on board most of the afternoon, made many sensible and judicious inquiries, and soon took an occasion to express, in the warmed manner, his satisfaction at the measures I had taken for the purpose of establishing a general peace. This he had learned from Poory, who had visited Enemo on shore early in the morning. The old regent, with great understanding, adverted to its necessity for the mutual good, happiness, and prosperity of all parties; and observed, that to him it would be particularly grateful, as it would relieve him from much care and anxiety, by the return of his relations, friends, and country men. He then desired to know, whether on my return to England I would take him thither, as his principal wish in this life was to see that country, and to have the gratification of speaking to His Majesty King George; after this, he said, he should die in peace, without having another wish to

indulge, On this subject he seemed so earnest, that I thought proper, by a promise in the affirmative, to favor his fond hopes.

      The ship being near the shore, about four in the afternoon the good old regent took his leave, after acquainting me, that as the next, day was taboo-poory, neither himself nor the prince could leave the shore; but that he would direct a chief to bring off such hogs and vegetables as could be collected by the morning; and that if we would remain off this part of the island until the day following, he would either bring himself, or send off, such further supplies as could be procured in the neighbourhood. Thus we parted from this friendly old chief, with little expectation of ever seeing him again.

      Soon after the departure of Enemo, Tamooerrie, attended by Poorey, came on board. The young prince appeared to be in high spirits, and was totally divested of those fears which he had entertained on his former visit. He seemed to be made very happy by our return; but, as his guardian had done, upbraided us for not having come before, when the several productions of his country were in the greatest abundance, and had been reserved for our use and service. The approach of night, and the distance we were to leeward of his habitation, conspired to shorten his visit. I made him some presents suitable to his rank and condition, after which, with the chiefs who were on board, he reluctantly took leave, desiring we would remain in the neighbourhood two or three days, that we might receive such articles of refreshment as could be obtained. This, I said, would depend upon circumstances; and on the departure of the canoes we made all sail to windward, with a pleasant steady breeze at N. N. E.; notwithstanding which, the next morning we had not advanced more than a mile to windward of our situation the preceding evening.

      Being near the shore in the forenoon, and seeing some canoes making towards the ship, we tacked and brought to, to give them an opportunity of coming alongside. These presently were proved to contain our friends Poorey, Too, and some other chiefs, who had brought us eight middling sized hogs, and some vegetables. This was but a scanty supply; and as the apologies we received, proved we had little probability of procuring more, and as little chance of beating round this part of

the island in any tolerable time, I declined persisting, and bore up for Whymea bay. There I intended to complete our water; and then, without further delay, to direct our course to the northward; having still remaining of our Owhyhean stock, a number of hogs, exclusive of fix hogsheads and ten barrels that had been salted and headed down, and every man in the ship having been daily served with as much pork as he liked.

      These refreshments, with those we had before obtained from our Spanish friends in New Albion, had lb perfectly re-established the health and strength of every individual on board, that I hoped we should be able to encounter the difficulties I had reason to apprehend in our next campaign, with all the firmness and alacrity that such services demand.

      Poorey and the rest of the chiefs accompanied us, in order that they might afford us their good offices at Whymea; where, owing to the light baffling winds in its neighbourhood, we were prevented anchoring until eleven at night; when we took our former station, conceiving it to be the belt in the bay, in 33 fathoms water, dark sandy bottom, about half a league from the shore.

      The next morning, as the few natives who had visited us brought little for sale, Poorey and the rest of his friends betook themselves to the shore, for the purpose of collecting in the neighbourhood such hogs and vegetables as could be procured. The launch was hoisted out, and sent with a guard of marines under the orders of Lieutenant Swaine, for a supply of water.

      I was engaged on shore most of the day, in regulating a comfortable establishment that I had procured from the chiefs, for our two female passengers, the one named Raheina, the other Tymarow, who we had met with as already stated at Nootka, in October, 1792, and had brought them from thence, to restore them to this their native country; from whence they had been forcibly taken, and had endured an uncomfortable absence of upwards of a year. This office of humanity, to which their behaviour and amiable dispositions so justly intitled them, I was fortunate enough to accomplish to their satisfaction; and I had the pleasure of finding that they both acknowledged this, and the civil

and attentive treatment they had each received from every person on board the Discovery and Chatham, with expressions of gratitude, and the most affectionate regard.

      Amongst the various reports industriously circulated at Nootka by the citizens of the united states of America, to the prejudice and dishonor of the British subjects trading on the coast of North West America, it had been positively asserted, that some of the latter had brought the natives of the Sandwich islands from thence to the coast of America, and had there fold them to the natives of those shores for furs. These two young women were particularly instanced, as having been so brought and disposed of by Mr. Baker, commanding the Jenny, of Bristol; and the story was told with such plausibility, that I believe it had acquired some degree of credit with Sen^r. Quadra, and most of the Spanish officers who heard it. The arrival of the Jenny, however, in the port of Nootka, gave a flat contradiction to these scandalous reports, and proved them to be equally malicious and untrue; as the two girls were found still remaining on board the Jenny, without having entertained any idea that they were intended to have been sold; nor did they mention to have received any ill usage from Mr. Baker, but on the contrary, that they had been treated with every kindness and attention whilst under his protection.

      Although I had not any personal knowledge of Mr. Baker previous to his entering Nootka, yet I should conceive him totally incapable of such an act of barbarity and injustice; and if there were the lead sincerity in the solicitude he expressed to me for the future happiness and welfare of these young women, it is impossible he could ever have meditated such a design. I do not, however, mean to vindicate the propriety of Mr. Baker's conduct, in bringing these girls from their native country; for I am decidedly of opinion it was highly improper; and if the young women are to be credited, their seduction and detention on board Mr. Baker's vessel were inexcusable. They report, that they went on board with several others of their countrywomen, who were permitted to return again to the shore; but that they were confined down in the cabin until the vessel had sailed, and was at some distance from Onehow. On

the other hand, Mr. Baker states, that he put to sea without any knowledge of their being on board his vessel. But be that as it may, we found them thus situated at Nootka; and the future objects of Mr. Baker's voyage leading him wide of the Sandwich islands, he requested, as I then noticed, that I would allow them to take their passage thither on board the Discovery. To this I assented, and on our sailing from Nootka, they were sent on board and taken under my protection.

      The names of these unfortunate females we first understood were Taheeopiah and Tymarow, both of the island of Onehow. The former, about fifteen years of age, was there of some consequence; the latter, about four or five years older, was related to the former, but was not of equal rank in the island.

      Taheeopiah, for some reason I never could understand, altered her name to that of Raheina, a short time after the came on board, and was continued to be so called.

      After leaving Nootka, our visit to the Spanish settlements, especially during the first part of our residence there, afforded them some recompence for the long and tedious voyage they had been compelled to undertake from their native country.

      The fight of horses, cattle, and other animals, with a variety of objects to which they were inure strangers, produced in them the highest entertainment; and without the least hesitation or alarm, they were placed on horseback on their first landing, and, with a man to lead the animal, they rode without fear, and were by that means enabled to partake of all the civilities and diversions which our Spanish friends so obligingly offered and provided. On all these occasions they were treated with the greatest kindness and attention by the ladies and gentlemen; at which they were not less delighted, than they were surprized at the social manner in which both sexes live, according to the custom of most civilized nations; differing so very materially from that of their own.

      These pleasures, however, they enjoyed but a short time; for soon after our arrival at Monterrey, they were both taken extremely ill; and notwithstanding that every means in our power was resorted to for the

re-establishment of their health, they did not perfectly recover until after our arrival at Owhyhee.

      They seemed much pleased with the European fashions, and in conforming to this new system of manners, they conducted themselves in company with a degree of propriety beyond all expectation. Their European dress contributed most probably to this effect, and produced, particularly in Raheina, a degree of personal delicacy that was conspicuous on many occasions. This dress was a riding habit, as being best calculated for their situation, and indeed the best in our power to procure. Its skirt, or lower part, was soon found to be intended as much for concealment, as for warmth; and in the course of a very short time, she became so perfectly familiar to its use in this respect, that in going up and down the ladders that communicate with the different parts of the ship, she would take as much care not to expose her ancles, as if she had been educated by the most rigid governess; and as this was particularly observable in the conduct of Raheina, it is probable her youth rendered her more susceptible of fresh notions, and of receiving new ideas and impressions from the surrounding objects, than the more matured age of her friend Tymarow.

      The elegance of Raheina's figure, the regularity and softness of her features, and the delicacy which she naturally possessed, gave her a superiority in point of personal accomplishments over the generality of her sex amongst the Sandwich inlanders; in addition to which, her sensibility and turn of mind, her sweetness of temper and complacency of manners, were beyond any thing that could have been expected from her birth, or native education; so that if it were fair to judge of the dispositions of a whole nation from the qualities of these two young women, it would seem that they are endued with much affection and tenderness. At least, such was their deportment towards us; by which they gained the regard and good wishes of, I believe, every one on board, whilst I became in no small degree solicitous for their future happiness and prosperity.

      Onehow being the place of their birth and former residence, I had promised to set them on shore on that island; but on our arrival at

Owhyhee, I had understood that the inhabitants of Onehow had almost intirely abandoned it, in consequence of the excessive drought that had prevailed during the last summer; which had nearly caused the total destruction of all its vegetable productions. Finding on my arrival at Attowai this information to have been well grounded, I came to a determination to leave our female friends at this island.

      Being well aware that the mode of living they had lately been constrained to adopt, and that their having eaten at mine and other tables in the company of men, was an offence of so heinous a nature against their laws as to subject them both to the punishment of death, I took, much pains to point out to Titeeree and Taio their innocence in this respect; and obtained from them both the strongest assurances, that they should not be liable to the least injury on that account, but that on their landing they should be immediately, taken care of and protected.

      These intreaties I enforced with Enemo, in the presence of Raheina and Tymarow when he was on board; and had the satisfaction of receiving from him similar assurances of his protection, not only of their persons, but their property; and that whatever articles we might think proper to give them, should be secured to them, and no one should be permitted to wrest or extort any thing from them. These assurances being given not only by Enemo, but by the rest of the chiefs then present, I thought, by the purchase of a house and a small portion of land, to add to their future respectability and comfort. This Enemo would not permit me to do, but instantly directed Oeashew to allot to each of them an estate in his newly acquired district of Whymea; to which Oeashew with much apparent pleasure consented.

      The better to make sure of this donation, and to secure the permanent possession of it to these young women, I desired that the houses and land might be given to me, that the property should be considered as vested in me, and that no person whatever should have any right in it, but by my permission; and that I would allow Raheina and Tymarow to live upon the estates.

      Matters having been in this manner arranged, Oeashew had gone on shore in the morning to fix upon the lands that were to be thus dif-

posed of; and about three in the afternoon he returned, saying that he had fixed upon two very eligible situations adjoining to each other, which if I approved should be mine; if not, I was at liberty to make choice of any other part of the district I might think more proper. In consequence of this offer, I attended him on shore, accompanied by some of the officers and our two females, who had received such an assortment of articles from us, as were deemed sufficient to make them respectable, without exciting the envy of the chiefs or their neighbours.

      We found the situation proposed by Oeashew to be a very large portion of the fertile valley, noticed on our former visit on the western side of the river, commencing at the sea beach, and extending along the banks of the river to a certain established land mark, including a very considerable extent of the inland mountainous country. The contiguity of these estates to the commerce of all the Europeans who visit this island, and the territory which it comprehended, was in value so far above our most sanguine expectations, that I was led to suspect the sincerity of the intended donation. But to this we became reconciled, from the protestations of the chief himself, as also from the universal declaration of many of the natives who had accompanied us, and who asserted that Oeashew really intended thus to dispose of the land in question; to which he added the most solemn assurances that he would protect them in the possession of it; together with their canoes, and all the articles they had brought with them from the ship; which declarations seemed perfectly to satisfy the young women, that they would be put into possession of these estates; and that their persons and property would be protected according to the assurances we had now received.

      A long established line of division, formed by trees and a common road, separated the two estates. The lower one nearest the sea, which was the most extensive, was allotted to Raheina, the other to Tymarow; each of which they respectively took possession of, and in the warmest and most grateful terms acknowledged the obligations they were under, for this last mark of our attention to their future happiness; and for the friendship and kindness they had experienced during their residence amongst us. They attended us to the beach, where they took an affectionate

leave, and we embarked for the ship, leaving them to meditate on their new situation, and the various turns of fortune that had conspired to place them in such comfortable circumstances.

      On my arrival on board I found, our friends who had been employed in procuring us supplies had returned with little success. Seventeen middling sized hogs, a few potatoes, and some taro, without any yams, was the whole amount of their collection. Our stock of water was completely replenished; and being satisfied from the report of the chiefs that no additional quantity of provisions was to be had at this island, I informed them that we should depart the first favorable opportunity. They inquired if I intended to visit the north side, as Poorey and Too would in that case continue on board for the purpose of assisting us in procuring some yams, which they said were more plentiful there than on the south side of the island; but as nothing less than a very tempting opportunity would have induced me to go thither, I declined giving them further trouble, and having presented them with such articles as their services and the occasion demanded, they took their leave, with expressions of the highest satisfaction, promising to pay every attention, and afford all possible assistance and protection, to their countrywomen whom we had just landed, and in whose future happiness and welfare they knew we had great interest.

      A light breeze of wind springing up from the land, about ten at night we put to sea and stood to the westward, to take the advantage of the south-westerly winds, which we were led to believe prevailed generally at this season of the year.

      On saturday morning Attowai bore by compass from N. 20 E. to S. 77 E.; Onehow, S. 64 W. to S. 85 W.; and Oreehooa, west. But, instead of the promised south-west wind, we were met by a fresh trade wind from the north-east. As this circumstance precluded our making a speedy survey of the north side of the island, I gave up that object for the present.

      A report having prevailed that Captain Cook had erroneously separated Oreehooa from Onehow, it being asserted that the inhabitants walked from one place to the other; and that Captain King had been

misinformed as to the number of inhabitants being four thousand. As these facts could be easily ascertained, we steered over for Oreehooa, and passed within a quarter or half a mile of its shores. It was soon proved that Oreehooa is positively separated from Onehow, by a channel about a mile in breadth; and though the depth of the sea appeared by its colour to be irregular, it was manifestly far too deep for people to w from one island to the other. As this channel lies immediately open, d is exposed to the whole force and influence of the trade wind, and the swell of the sea consequent upon it, (neither of which were very moderate at the time of our examination,) it is natural to infer, that if the channel did admit of foot passengers crossing it, the causeway would have been visible above the surface of the water; or, from the violence with which the sea broke on the contiguous shores, that it certainly would have broken over a space so shallow, as to allow people to pass and repass on foot; but the sea did not break in any part of the channel, which, on the contrary, seemed to be nearly of a sufficient depth to admit of a passage for the Discovery. With respect to the population, Captain King must doubtless have been led into error. The island of Oreehooa is of very small extent, and wholly composed of one rugged, naked, barren rock, to all appearance destitute of soil, and presenting no indication of its being, or having ever been the residence of human creatures.

      Having completely satisfied our minds in these respects, we hauled our wind to the north-west, and with all sail set, we bad adieu to the Sandwich islands for the present, and made the best of our way towards Nootka.

A

VOYAGE

TO

THE NORTH PACIFIC OCEAN

AND

ROUND THE WORLD.

BOOK THE FIFTH.

THIRD VISIT TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS — CONCLUSION OF THE SURVEY OF THE COAST OF NORTH-WEST AMERICA.

CHAPTER I.

Leave the coast of New Albion — Arrive off the east point of Owhyhee — Examine Whyeatea bay — Visited by Tamaahmaah — Proceed to Karakakooa bay — Transactions there — Departure of the Dædalus for New South Wales.

      OUR progress from the coast of New Albion, still attended with light variable winds, was so slow, that at noon of the 15th the shores were yet in sight, bearing from N. 17 E. to S. 69 E.; the former, being the nearest, was distant 7 leagues; the observed latitude was 30° 14', longitude 243° 57½.

      In the afternoon, the wind blew a moderate gale at W. N. W., which brought us by day-light the next morning within sight of the island of Guadaloupe. This island is composed of high naked rocky mountains; is about thirteen miles long, nearly in a north and south direction, with two rocky islets; one lying W. S. W., at the distance of half a league;

the other lying south, two miles from its south point, which is situated in latitude 28° 54', longitude 241° 38'. The wind at N.W. continued to blow a pleasant gale with fair weather until midnight; but at this time it veered round, and settled in the north-east trade. Our distance was now about 75 leagues from the coast, and it is probable the north-west winds do not extend far beyond that limit, as the wind that succeeded continued without calms, or other interruptions, between the N. E. and E. N. E., blowing a Ready, gentle, and pleasant gale.

      On the 22d, in latitude 23° 23', longitude 234° 37', the variation of the compass was 7° eastwardly; here we had thirty hours calm, after which we had a gentle breeze from the N. E.; this as we proceeded was attended first by cloudy and gloomy weather, and afterwards with rain, and sudden gusts or flurries of wind. On the 25th, a tropic bird was seen, and a common gull that appeared to be much fatigued, and inclined to alight on board.

      This very unpleasant weather, similar to that which we had experienced in this neighbourhood about the conclusion of last january, still continued; and on the 29th, in latitude 19° 1', longitude 231° 58', the wind, after veering to the S. E., became light, and, like the weather, was very unsettled. We were now passing the spot assigned to the los Majos isles, at the distance of a few miles only to the southward of our former track; but we perceived no one circumstance that indicated the vicinity of land.

      On the 31st, the wind seemed to be fixed in the northern quarter, but the atmosphere was still very unpleasant, and the gloomy weather was accompanied by much rain. On the 3d of january, in latitude 18° 34', longitude 213° 32', a very heavy swell rolled from the N. W., and the wind in that direction was light, with alternate calms, attended by foggy or dark hazy weather until the 6th, when in latitude 19° 19', longitude 208° 48', we had a few hours of fair and pleasant weather; this was again succeeded by the same gloomy atmosphere that we had experienced during the greater part of this passage, and the wind continued to be very variable between the N. W. and S. S. W. In the afternoon of the following day the weather was more favorable, and the wind from the

northward settled in the N. E; to this we spread all our canvass in the expectation of seeing the island of Owhyhee at day-light the next morning. The wind however slackened during the night, and the weather being dark and gloomy, it was not until about nine o'clock in the forenoon that Mowna-kaah was discovered shewing his hoary head above the clouds, bearing by compass W. ½ s.; but the haze and mist with which the district of Aheedo was inveloped, prevented our discerning the shores. The observed latitude at noon was 19° 52'; at this time the east end of Owhyhee bore by compass S. 52 W., at the distance of 10 leagues, by which it appeared, that Arnold's chronometer, No. 14. had erred in longitude since our departure from the coast of New Albion 27'; his No. 176, 21'; Kendall's, 52'; and the dead reckoning 3° 40'; all being to the eastward of the truth. This error has however been corrected, in assigning the several situations during this passage.

      We stood for the land until sun-set, when being within 2 leagues of the shore, we employed the night in preserving our station off that part of the coast, where we expected to find the harbour or bay of Whyeatea: in quest of which I dispatched Mr. Whidbey in the cutter the next morning, attended by a boat from the Chatham, and another from the Dædalus, all well armed. The appearance of the shores did not seem much in favor of our finding a more eligible situation here than at Karakakooa, for accomplishing our several purposes; notwithstanding the representation that had been made to us of its being very commodious.

      The boats had scarcely departed when some of the natives came off in their canoes, but owing to a very heavy swell from the northward, they could bring us but few refreshments. As soon as they understood who we were, they told us that Tamaahmaah, with several of the principal chiefs, were then on shore waiting in expectation of our arrival; and then immediately made the best of their way towards the shore, proclaiming our return to their country with shouts, apparently of great joy and gladness.

      About ten in the forenoon we were honored with the presence of the king, with his usual confidence and cheerful disposition. It was impossible to mistake the happiness he expressed on seeing us again,

which seemed to be greatly increased by his meeting us at this, his most favorite part of the island; where he hoped we should be able to remain some time, to take the benefits arising from its fertility; which, from the appearance of the neighbouring shores, seemed to promise an abundant supply of the various refreshments these countries are known to produce.

      Tamaahmaah had noticed the boats in their way to the shore, and trusted they would return with a favorable report; which he, as well as ourselves, anxiously waited for until five in the evening. Mr. Whidbey now informed me, that during the prevalence of the southerly winds, in the more advanced part of the spring season, Whyeatea might probably be found a tolerably secure and convenient place, as the land formed a deep bay, which was additionally sheltered by a reef lying off its south-east point, with foundings from 25 to 6 fathoms, clear sandy bottom; at least as far as his examination had extended. This had not been very minute, as the bay was intirely exposed to the northerly winds, which then blew very strong; and being attended with a heavy sea from that quarter, rendered any attempt to land from our boats impracticable. On this report I determined to proceed to Karakakooa, as that bay was indisputably at this time the most secure and convenient port for shipping of any in the Sandwich islands.

      My intention was directly made known to Tamaahmaah, and I requested that he would give us the pleasure of his company thither; well knowing that his influence over the inferior chiefs and the people would be attended with the most desirable consequences, in preserving the harmony and good understanding that already so happily existed. He did not however seem much inclined to accept my invitation, or to give me a positive answer; but requested, that the vessels might remain some days in this neighbourhood, to avail ourselves of the ample supply of refreshments that might be procured here, before we proceeded to any other part of the island; adding, that he would remain with us to see this business properly performed.

      I was by no means disposed to accede to the wishes of the king, nor was I satisfied with the arrangement he had proposed.

      The vessels having been driven far to leeward on the morning of the 10th, and the wind then blowing strong from the northward, attended with a very heavy sea, I pointed out and explained to Tamaahmaah, the great improbability of our being able to comply with his desires, and the necessity of our proceeding without delay to some place of secure anchorage, for the purpose of refitting; renewing at the same time and in the strongest terms, my solicitations for his company. I did not sail to enforce how important his presence would necessarily be, not only to us for whom he had repeatedly expressed the greatest respect and friendship, but also to the welfare of his own subjects. He readily acknowledged the propriety of my observations, and how much he was inclined to adopt the measure I had proposed; but he now avowed that he could not accompany us, as the taboo appertaining to the festival of the new year demanded his continuance for a certain period, within the limits of the district in which these ceremonies had commenced. The time of interdiction was not yet expired, and it was not possible he could absent himself without the particular sanction of the priests. To obtain this indulgence, he considered his presence to be indispensibly necessary on more at the morai. Aware of the superior influence possessed by the priesthood, and of the strict adherence of all ranks to their superstitions, I suspected that if Tamaahmaah went on shore they would not allow him to return; for this reason I recommended, that one of the chiefs in his suite should repair thither, and make known the king's pleasure. But as this proposal did not seem to meet his ideas, or to be consonant to his wishes, I resolved not to detain him contrary to his own free will and inclination, or by any other means than those of persuasion. Yet as I considered his attendance to be an object of too much importance to be readily relinquished, I had recourse to a fort of artifice, that I had reason to believe would answer my purpose by its operation on his feelings. I desisted from all importunities, and attributed his declining my invitation to a coolness and a relaxation in the friendship he had formerly shewn, and pretended to entertain; and I stated, that I had no doubt of soon finding amongst the other islands some chief,

whose assistance, protection, and authority, would on all occasions be readily afforded.

      Tamaahmaah had always been accustomed to attend our meals, and breakfast in particular he was extremely fond of partaking with us; but under the reproach he had just received, of a want of friendship, no solicitation could prevail on him to accept of any thing at table; he fat in a silent thoughtful mood, his sensibility was probed to the quick, and his generous heart, which continued to entertain the warmest friendship and regard, not only for me but for every one in our little community, yielded to our wishes; though at the risk of incurring the displeasure of the priests, by an unprecedented breach of their religious rites. At length he determined, that his half brother Crymamahoo should be sent to the priests, to communicate his intentions of accompanying us. On my saying, that this resolution made me very happy, and met my hearty concurrence, he replied, that I had treated him unkindly in suspecting that his friendship was abated, for that it remained unshaken, as his future conduct would demonstrate; but that he considered himself to be the last person in his dominions who ought to violate the established laws, and the regulations of the country which he governed.

      Our little difference being thus amicably adjusted, he ate a hearty break-fast; and having given his brother the necessary instructions for governing this part of the island during his absence, in which business they were occupied an hour, Crymamahoo was dismissed, and directed to return with all convenient speed to communicate the answer of the priests.

      Thoroughly convinced of the purity of Tamaahmaah's friendly intentions, I had receded from my former determination with respect to him, or any other of the chiefs, sleeping on board the ship. Our party now consisted of seven chiefs, three of whom were accompanied by their favorite females; but Tahow-man-noo, the king's consort, was not of the number. As she had never sailed in her attendance on him, the cause of her absence became a subject of inquiry, and I had the mortification of understanding that a separation had taken place, in consequence of its having

been reported, that too great an intimacy had subsisted between her and Tianna.

      I understood from the king's attendants, that the infidelity of the queen was by no means certain; and as I well knew the reciprocal affection of this royal pair, and as she was then residing with her father at, or in the neighbourhood of Karakakooa, I thought it a charitable office, to make a tender of my endeavours for the purpose of bringing about a reconciliation. In reply to this obtrusion of my services, Tamaahmaah expressed his thanks; and assured me, that he should be always happy to receive any advice on state affairs, or any public matters, especially where peace or war might be concerned; but that such differences as might occur in, or respect, his domestic happiness, he considered to be totally out of my province. This rebuff I silently sustained; cherishing the hope that the period would arrive, when I should be able to prevail on him to entertain a different opinion.

      The wind from the northward, attended with a very heavy sea, reduced us to our close-reefed topsails, and as we stood in shore in the afternoon a very strong current evidently pressed us to leeward. The appearance of the weather indicating no favorable or early change, there was little probability of our soon seeing Crymamahoo, or any of the inhabitants of Aheedoo; this induced the king to call his whole retinue together, both male and female, in order to take their advice as to his proceeding, without first receiving the religious assent he had dispatched Crymamahoo to obtain. The result of their deliberations was, a unanimous opinion that the priests would, on a certainty, accede to his wishes. This had been undoubtedly the previous sentiment of the king, or he would not have instructed his brother, in the manner he had done, how to conduct himself during his absence.

      Although I earnestly wished to avoid being the cause of endangering his popularity, yet I was so anxiously desirous of his company, that I did not hesitate a moment in giving my hearty concurrence to this determination, in order that we might make the best of our way to Karakakooa.

      Our course was now directed round the east point of the island, along its south-east side; we made a tolerably good progress; and as we passed the district of Opoona, on the morning of the 11th, the weather being very clear and pleasant, we had a most excellent view of Mowna Roa's snowy summit, and the range of lower hills that extend towards the east end of Owhyhee. From the tops of these, about the middle of the descending ridge, several columns of smoke were seen to ascend, which Tamaahmaah, and the rest of our friends said, were occasioned by the subterranean fires that frequently broke out in violent eruptions, causing amongst the natives such a multiplicity of superstitious notions, as to give rise to a religious order of persons, who perform volcanic rites; consisting of various sacrifices of the different productions of the country, for the purpose of appealing the wrath of the enraged demon.

      On approaching the shores of the district of Kaoo, we were met by several of the inhabitants, bringing in their canoes some refreshments and other productions of the country. Those who first approached us seemed to be much surprised, and many of them were not a little alarmed at seeing their king on board; inquiring with great earnestness, whether his being there, and having broken the taboo, was by his own choice, or by compulsion. On being assured by all present that Tamaahmaah, and the rest of the chiefs, were under no restraint whatever, but were accompanying us by their own free will, they became perfectly satisfied; and appeared to be equally so on understanding, that it was the king's pleasure, that the hogs and vegetables they had brought off should be delivered on board, without their receiving any equivalent in return; nor could we, without giving Tamaahmaah serious offence, have infringed this order, which seemed to be very cheerfully complied with on the part of his subjects; and, in the course of the forenoon, the vessels procured a sufficient supply for their present consumption. Whether the king accounted with these people afterwards for the value of their property thus disposed of, or not, I could not rightly understand; but from the great good humour with which they complied with the royal order, and from some conversation with one of the king's attendants, re -

specting the value of the refreshments so delivered, I had reason to believe that a compensation would be allowed to them.

      Shortly after noon we were opposite the south point of the island; and, as a report had been circulated that close round, on its western side, good anchorage and excellent shelter had been found. (though it had escaped the notice of Captain Cook) Mr. Whidbey was dispatched in the cutter, in order to ascertain the truth of this assertion, which was soon proved to be void of foundation; for although a strong westerly gale prevented Mr.Whidbey from making a very minute examination, yet he clearly discovered that the shores were nearly straight, and exposed to a most tremendous surf, that broke with such fury as to render landing, if not impossible, highly dangerous, even to those of the inhabitants who are most expert in the management of their canoes.

      The wind continued to blow very strong between west and N. W. until the morning of the 12th; when it became variable, and allowed us to make but a very flow progress towards Karakakooa. Tamaahmaah being very anxious that we should gain the place of our destination, went on shore for the purpose of placing lights to conduct us in the evening to our former anchorage; where, about ten the following night we anchored near an American brig, named the Lady Washington, commanded by Mr. John Kendrick.

      As we worked into the bay many of the inhabitants were assembled on the shores, who announced their congratulations by shouts of joy, as, on our different tacks. we approached the shores of the neighbouring villages. At this late hour many of our former friends, particularly of the fair sex, lost no time in testifying the sincerity of the public sentiment in our favour. Young and Davis we had likewise the pleasure of finding in the exercise of those judicious principles they had so wisely adopted, and by their example and advice had so uniformly been carried into effect. The great propriety with which they had conducted themselves, had tended in a high degree to the comfort and happiness of these people, to the gratification of their own feelings, and to a pre-eminence in the good opinion of the king, that had intitled them to his warmest a affections. The same sort of esteem and regard, we understood, was shewn to

them, if not by all, at lead by the well-disposed inhabitants of the island.

      The Discovery was secured nearly in her former station on the following morning; and the Chatham and Dædalus were disposed of in the most convenient manner for carrying into execution the respective services that each had to perform.

      Mr. Kendrick had been here about six weeks, and it was with infinite pleasure we understood, that during that time he had not only been liberally supplied by the inhabitants of the island with its several productions, but that the same orderly, and civil behaviour had been observed towards him, which we had experienced on our former visit; and which we had every reason to expect would be continued, from the assurances we received from the chiefs, and from the acclamations of the people, which had resounded from all quarters on our arrival.

      Tamaahmaah understanding that it would be necessary that we should land parts of the cargoes of all the vessels, appointed proper places for their reception; and knowing we had no more men than we could constantly employ for the speedy accomplishment of this business, he undertook to be answerable for the safety and security of every thing we might have occasion to put on shore, without our having any guard there for its protection. He also gave orders that his people should fill all our water casks; and as he considered that bartering with the several chiefs, and other individuals, for the valuable refreshments of the country, would not only be troublesome and unpleasant, but might give rise to disputes and misunderstandings between the parties; he desired we would daily, or as often as should suit our convenience, make our demands known to him, and he would take care that the three vessels were duly supplied with every necessary refreshment.

      This considerate and very friendly arrangement I was happy to concur in, and at day-light on wednesday morning three large canoes, laden with forty very fine hogs, and thirty small ones, with a proportionate quantity of vegetables, were, by the directions of the king, distributed amongst our three vessels.

      On this occasion, it was impossible to avoid making a companion between our reception and treatment here, by these untaught children of nature, and the ceremonious conditional offers of accommodation we experienced at St. Francisco and Monterrey, from the educated civilized governor of New Albion and California.

      After the large canoes had delivered their acceptable cargoes, they received and took to the shore the live cattle, which I had been more successful in bringing from New Albion than on the former occasion. These consisted of a young bull nearly full grown, two fine cows, and two very fine bull calves, all in high condition; as likewise five rams, and five ewe sheep. Two of each of these, with most of the black cattle, were given to the king; and as those I had brought last year had thrived exceedingly well; the sheep having bred, and one of the cows having brought forth a cow calf; I had little doubt, by this second importation, of having at length effected the very desirable object of establishing in this island a breed of those valuable animals.

      I learned from Tamaahmaah, that he had issued the strictest orders so to regulate the conduct and behaviour of his people towards us, as he trusted would be the means of insuring a continuance of the harmony that had so happily subsisted on our former visits to his dominions; and he added, that he had many enemies even amongst the chiefs of Owhyhee, who were not unlikely to use their endeavours for the purpose of frustrating his good intentions, and that it was very important that the designs of such ill-disposed persons should be watchfully guarded against. I thanked Tamaahmaah for his vigilant attention to preserve our tranquillity and comfort, and informed him, that I had also issued orders and directions similar to those given on my former visit. These having the same tendency, and operating to the same end, with those enjoined by himself, would, I hoped, be effectual in affording us the recreation and enjoyment of the country, and in securing to us a continuation of the then subsisting friendly intercourse.

      These necessary precautions being taken on both sides, we immediately began upon the various services that demanded our attention. Those appertaining to the reception of the provisions and stores from

the Dædalus, were the primary objects of our consideration; and by the orderly and docile behaviour of all classes of the inhabitants, this business was carried into execution with a degree of facility, and confidence in our perfect security, equal to the accommodation that could possibly have been obtained in any port of Europe.

      There were not at this time many of the principal chiefs in our neighbourhood. Our former friend Kahowmotoo paid us an early visit, with a present of twenty large hogs, and a proportionable quantity of vegetables. He was not, however, in his usually cheerful good spirits, but was much depressed, in consequence of a violent indisposition under which his favorite son Whokaa laboured, from a wound he had received in the exercise of throwing the spear with a man of mean rank. After a long contention for superiority, their play, it seemed, terminated in earned, and the young chief received his adversary's spear, which was barbed, in the throat. Much difficulty had attended its being taken out, which had occasioned a wound that had battled all their art to cure, and had reduced him to the last stage of his existence. His antagonist was soon seized, and the next day his eyes were pulled out, and, after remaining in that deplorable state two days, he was executed, by being strangled with a rope.

      As some of the gentlemen intended to accompany Mr. Menzies on an excursion into the interior part of the country, they were, agreeably to our plan of regulations, attended by a chief of the village of Kakooa with several of the king's people, who had directions to supply all their wants, and to afford them every assistance and service that they might require.

      The harmony that had attended the execution of all our employments had so facilitated the equipment of the vessels, that, by the following tuesday, the business in the Discovery's hold was in that state of forwardness as to permit our attending to other objects. The astronomical department claimed my first thoughts; and being of such material importance, I was anxious to lose no time in sending the tents, observatory, and instruments, on shore, now that a party could be afforded for their protection. On this occasion I was surprized to find the king make some

objection; to their being erected in their former situation, near the morai; giving us as a reason, that he could not sanction our inhabiting the tabooed lands, without previously obtaining the permission of an old woman, who, we understand. was the daughter of the venerable Kaoo, and wife to the treacherous Koah. Being totally unacquainted before, that the women ever possessed the least authority over their consecrated places, or religious ceremonies, this circumstance much surprized me, especially as the king seemed to be apprehensive of receiving a refusal from this old lady, and which, after waiting on shore for some time, proved to be the case. Tamaahmaah observing my disappointment, intreated me to fix upon some other part of the bay; but as it was easily made obvious to his understanding that no other spot would be equally convenient, he instantly assembled some of the principal priests of the morai, and after having a serious conference with them, he acquainted me, that we were at liberty to occupy the consecrated ground as formerly, which we accordingly took possession of the next morning.

      Mr. Whidbey, who had charge of the encampment, attended it on shore under a guard of fix marines; these were sent, however, more for the sake of form than for necessity; as Tamaahmaah had appointed one of his half brothers, Trywhookee, a chief of some consequence, together with several of the priests, to protect, and render the party on shore every service their situation might demand. To this spot, as on our former visit, none were admitted but those of the society of priests, the principal chiefs, and some few of their male attendants; no women, on any pretence whatever, being ever admitted within the sacred limits of the morai.

      The unfortunate son of Kahowmotoo had been brought by his father from one of his principal places of residence, about six miles north of the bay where the unfortunate accident happened, to the village of Kowrowa, in order to benefit by such medical or other assistance as we might be able to afford, but without effect; for in the afternoon he breathed his last.

      The periodical taboo, that ought to have commenced the following evening, was, on this occasion, suspended, to manifest that they were

      offended with their deity for the death of this young chief; whose loss seemed to be greatly deplored by all the family, but most particularly so by Kahowmotoo; of whom I took a proper opportunity of inquiring when the corpse would be interred, and if there would be any objection to my attending the funeral solemnities. To this he made answer, that the burial would take place the day following, and that he would come on board at any convenient hour, and accompany me on shore for that purpose.

      I remained perfectly satisfied with the promise made by Kahowmotoo; and was the next morning greatly disappointed on his informing me, that Kavaheero, the chief of the village at which his son had died, had, in the course of the night, unknown to him or any of his family, caused the body of the young chief to be interred in one of the sepulchral holes of the steep hill, forming the north side of the bay. This circumstance could not but be received as an additional proof of their aversion to our becoming acquainted with their religious rites, and their determination to prevent our attendance on any of their sacred formalities.

      The party accompanying Mr. Menzies returned with him on saturday, after having had a very pleasant excursion, though it had been somewhat fatiguing in consequence of the badness of the paths in the interior country, where in many places the ground broke in under their feet. Their object had been to gain the summit of Mowna Roa, which they had not been able to effect in the direction they had attempted it; but they had reached the top of another mountain, which though not so lofty as Mowna-rowna, or Mowna-kaah, is yet very conspicuous, and is called by the natives Worroray. This mountain rises from the western extremity of the island, and on its summit was a volcanic crater that readily accounted for the formation of that part of the country over which they had found it so dangerous to travel. The good offices of their Indian guide and servants received a liberal reward, to which they were highly intitled by their friendly and orderly behaviour.

      The whole of the retinue that had attended Tamaahmaah from Aheedoo, with the addition of some new visitors, lived intirely on board the ship, and felt themselves not only perfectly at home, but very advan-

tageously situated, in being enabled to purchase such commodities of their own produce or manufacture which were brought to us for sale, as attracted their attention, with the presents which they received from time to time. Notwithstanding this indulgence, which I thought could not have sailed to keep them honest, such is their irresistible propensity to thieving, that five of my table knives were missing. The whole party stoutly denied having any knowledge of the theft; but as it was evident the knives were stolen by some of them, I ordered them all, except the king, instantly to quit the ship, and gave positive directions that no one of them should be re-admitted. Beside this, I deemed it expedient to make a point with Tamaahmaah that the knives should be restored. He saw the propriety of my insisting on this demand, and before noon three of the knives were returned.

      The taboo, which had been postponed in consequence of Whokaa's death, was observed this evening, though not without holding out a sentiment of resentment to their deity for having suffered him to die; for instead of its continuing the usual time of two nights and one whole day, this was only to be in force from sun-set to the rising of the sun the following morning; which the king having observed, returned to us as soon as the ceremonies were finished.

      Being very much displeased with the ungrateful behaviour of his attendants, I demanded of Tamaahmaah, in a serious tone, the two knives that had not yet been restored. I expatiated on the disgrace that attached to every individual of the whole party, and the consequence of the example to all the subordinate classes of his people. He appeared to be much chagrined, and to suffer a high degree of mortification at the very unhandsome manner in which I had been treated; this was still further increased, by one of his most particular favorites having been charged, and on just grounds, as one of the delinquents.

      About noon he went on shore, in a very sullen humour, and did not return until I had sent for him in the evening, which summons he very readily obeyed; and soon another knife was returned, which he declared was the only one he had been able to find, and that if any more were yet missing, they must have been lost by some other means. The

      truth, as we afterwards understood, was that the knife had been given, by the purloiner, to a person of much consequence, over whom Tamaahmaah did not with to enforce his authority.

      These knives had not been stolen, as might be naturally imagined, for their value as iron instruments, but for the sake of their ivory handles. These were intended to have been converted into certain neck ornaments, that are considered as sacred and invaluable. The bones of some fish are, with great labour, appropriated to this purpose; but the colour and texture of the ivory surpassing, in so eminent a degree, the other ordinary material, the temptation was too great to be resisted.

      Under the particular circumstances, which we understood attended the missing knife, I readily put up with its loss; because, in so doing, I was relieved of the inconvenience which a number of noisy and troublesome visitors had occasioned. These, however, paid clearly for their dishonesty, in being abridged the great source of wealth which they had enjoyed on board, and which had enabled them to procure many valuable commodities of their own country, at the expence of asking only for such of our European articles as the seller demanded.

      Our business in the hold being finished, the seamen were employed in a thorough examination of all the rigging; and although this was the first time, with respect to the lower rigging, that an examination had taken place since the ship was commissioned, we had the satisfaction of finding it in much better condition than, from the trials it had endured, we could reasonably have expected.

      Since the death of Whokaa, Kahowmotoo had not paid the least attention to the Owhyhean taboos; but as similar interdictions were to take place on the 28th, on the island of Mowee, these he punctually observed: and on the following day Tamaahmaah also was again thus religiously engaged; but as there were no prayers on this day, the people at large seemed to be under little restriction.

      On thursday we were favored with the company of Terree-my-tee, Crymamahoo, Tianna, and some other chiefs, from the distant parts of the island.

      Their arrival had been in consequence of a summons from the king, who had called the grand council of the island, on the subject of its ces-

sion to the crown of Great Britain, which was unanimously desired. This important business, however, for which their attendance had been demanded, appeared to be of secondary consideration to all of them; and the happiness they expressed on our return, together with their cordial behaviour, proved, beyond dispute, that our arrival at Owhyhee was the object most conducive to the pleasure of their journey. Even Tianna conducted himself with an unusual degree of good humour; but as neither he, nor his brother Nomatahah, from their turbulent, treacherous, and ungrateful dispositions, were favorites amongst us, his humility, on this occasion, obtained him only the reputation of possessing a very superior degree of art and duplicity. But as the principal object I had in view was to preserve the good understanding that had been established between us, and, if possible, to secure it on a permanent basis, for the benefit of those who might succeed us at these islands, I waved all retrospective considerations, and treated Tianna with every mark of attention, to which his rank, as one of the six provincial chiefs, intitled him, and with which, on all occasions, he appeared to be highly gratified.

      These chiefs brought intelligence, that a quantity of timber which had been sent for at my request, was on its way hither; it had been cut down under the directions of an Englishman, whose name was Boid, formerly the mate of the sloop Washington, but who had relinquished that way of life, and had entered into the service of Tamaahmaah. He appeared in the character of a shipwright, and had undertaken to build, with these materials, a vessel for the king, after the European fashion; but not having been regularly brought up to this business, both himself and his comrades, Young and Davis, were fearful of encountering too many difficulties; especially as they were all much at a loss in the first outset, that of laying down the keel, and properly letting up the frame; but could they be rightly assisted in these primary operations, Boid (who had the appearance of being very industrious and ingenious) seemed to entertain no doubt of accomplishing the rest of their undertaking.

      This afforded me an opportunity of conferring on Tamaahmaah a favor that he valued far beyond every other obligation in my power to bestow, by permitting our carpenters to begin the vessel; from whose example, and the assistance of these three engineers, he was in hopes that his people would hereafter be able to build boats and small vessels for themselves.

      An ambition so truly laudable, in one to whose hospitality and friendship we had been so highly indebted, and whose good offices were daily administering in some way or other to our comfort, it was a grateful task to cherish and promote; and as our carpenters had finished the re-equipment of the vessels, on the 1st of february they laid down the keel, and began to prepare the frame work of His Owhyhean Majesty's first man of war. The length of its keel was thirty-six feet, the extreme breadth of the vessel nine feet and a quarter, and the depth of her hold about five feet; her name was to be The Britannia, and was intended as a protection to the royal person of Tamaahmaah; and I believe few circumstances in his life ever afforded him more solid satisfaction.

      It was not very likely that our stay would be so protracted, as to allow our artificers to finish the work they had begun, nor did the king seem to expect I should defer my departure hence for that purpose; but confided in the assertion of Boid, that, with the assistance we should afford him, he would be able to complete the vessel.

      In the evening a very strict taboo commenced; it was called The taboo of the Hahcoo, and appertains to the taking of two particular kinds of fish; one of which, amongst these islanders, bears that name; these are not lawful to be taken at the same time, for during those months that the one is permitted to be caught the other is prohibited. They are very punctual in the observance of this anniversary, which is, exclusively of their days, months, and year, an additional means of dividing their time, or, perhaps, properly speaking, their seasons. The continuance of this interdiction ought to have extended to ten days; but as it is the prerogative of the king to shorten its duration in any one particular district, he directed on our account that in the district of

Akona it should cease with the men on the morning of the 4th, and with the women on the day following.

      Most of our essential business was nearly brought to a conclusion by the 6th, and our remaining here for the accomplishment of what yet remained to be done, was no longer an object of absolute necessity; yet I was induced to prolong our stay in this comfortable situation for two reasons; first, because the plan of operations I intended to pursue, in the prosecution of the remaining part of our survey on the coast of North-West America, did not require our repairing immediately to the northward; and secondly, because our former experience amongst the other islands had proved, that there was no prospect of obtaining that abundant. supply of refreshments which Owhyhee afforded, even at the expence of arms and ammunition; articles that humanity and policy had uniformly dictated me to with-hold, not only from these islanders, but from every tribe of Indians with whom we had any concern.

      The completion of our survey of these islands required still the examination of the north sides of Mowee, Woahoo, and Attowai; and reserving sufficient time for that purpose, I determined to spend here the rest I had to spare, before we should proceed to the American coast. This afforded an opportunity to Mr. Menzies and Mr. Baker, accompanied by some others of the gentlemen, to make another excursion into the country for the purpose of ascending Mowna Roa, which now appeared to be a task that was likely to be accomplished; as we had understood from the natives, that the attempt would be less difficult from the south point of the island than from any other direction. For this purpose the party, furnished by Tamaahmaah with a large double canoe, and a sufficient number of people, under the orders of a Ready careful chief, sat out, in the confidence of receiving every assistance and attention that could be necessary to render the expedition interesting and agreeable.

      The Dædalus being, in all respects, ready to depart for port Jackson, Lieutenant Hanson on the 8th received his orders from me for that purpose, together with a copy of our survey of the coast of New Albion,

southward from Monterrey; and such dispatches for government as I thought proper to transmit by this conveyance, to the care of the commanding officer at that port.

      Some plants of the bread fruit were also put on board, in order that Mr. Hanson, in his way to New South Wales, should endeavour, in the event of his visiting Norfolk island, to introduce there that most valuable production of the vegetable kingdom.

CHAPTER II.

Sequel of transactions at Karakakooa — Cession of the island of Owhyhee — Astronomical and nautical observations.

      WHILST the re-equipment of the vessels was going forward in this hospitable port, I had remained chiefly on board; but having now little to attend to there, on sunday I took up my abode at the encampment, highly to the satisfaction of the king; who, for the purpose of obtaining such knowledge as might hereafter enable him to follow the example of our artificers, had paid the strictest attention to all their proceedings in the construction of the Britannia. This had latterly so much engaged him, that we had been favored with little of his company on board the vessels; yet I had the satisfaction of reflecting, that his having been occasionally with us, and constantly in our neighbourhood, had been the means of restraining the ill-disposed, and of encouraging the very orderly and friendly behaviour that we had experienced from the inhabitants without the least interruption whatever. An uniform zeal directed the conduct of every Indian, in the performance of such offices of kindness as we appeared to stand in need of, or which they considered would be acceptable; these were executed with such promptitude and cheerfulness, as to indicate that they considered their labours amply repaid by our acceptance of their services; yet I trust they were better rewarded than if they had acted on more interested principles.

      Our reception and entertainment here by these unlettered people, who in general have been distinguished by the appellation of savages, was such as, I believe, is seldom equalled by the most civilized nations of

Europe, and made me no longer regret the inhospitality we had met with at St. Francisco and Monterrey. The temporary use that we wished to make of a few yards of the American shore, for our own convenience and for the promotion of science, was not here, as in New Albion, granted with restrictions that precluded our acceptance of the favor we solicited; on the contrary, immediately on our arrival an ample space, protected by the most sacred laws of the country, was appropriated to our service; whilst those of our small community whose inclinations led them into the interior parts of the island, either for recreation, or to examine its natural productions, found their desires met and encouraged by the kind assistance of Tamaahmaah, and their several pursuits rendered highly entertaining and agreeable, by the friendship and hospitality which was shewn them at every house in the course of their excursions.

      A conduct so disinterestedly noble, and uniformly observed by so untutored a race, will not sail to excite a certain degree of regret, that the first social principles, teaching mutual support and universal benevolence, should so frequently, amongst civilized people, be sacrificed to suspicion, jealousy, and distrust. These sentiments had undoubtedly very strongly operated against us on a recent occasion; but had the gentleman, to whose assistance we appealed, but rightly considered our peculiar situation, he must have been convinced there could not have existed a necessity for the unkind treatment he was pleased to offer to our little squadron; and he would have spared me at this moment the unwelcome talk of making this comparison, by which the world will perceive what I must have felt upon that occasion.

      A very strict taboo was on this day to be enforced over all the island, and required that the respective chiefs should retire to their own estates, for the purpose of rigidly observing the attendant solemnities; which were to continue two nights and one day. In the event of the omen's proving favorable, the chiefs would be permitted to eat of such pork as they might think proper to consecrate on this occasion; and high poory, that is, grand prayers would be performed; but should the omens be otherwise, the rites were instantly to be suspended.

      I had frequently expressed to Tamaahmaah a desire of being or sent on some of these occasions; and he now informed me, that he had obtained for me the consent of the priests, provided I would, during the continuance of the interdiction, attend to all the restrictions which their religion demanded.

      Having readily promised to comply with this condition, I was with some degree of formality visited by several of the principals of their religious order, one of whom was distinguished by the appellation of Eakooa, no Tamaahmaah; meaning the god of Tamaahmaah. This priest had been one of our frequent attendants, notwithstanding which, he was, on this occasion, detected in Stealing a knife; for which offence he was immediately dismissed from our party, and excluded from the precincts of our encampment.

      The restraints imposed consisted chiefly in four particulars; first, a total seclusion from the company of the women; secondly, partaking of no food but such as was previously consecrated; thirdly, being confined to the land, and not being afloat, or wet with sea water; and fourthly, not receiving, or even touching, the most trivial article from any one, who had not attended the ceremonies at the morai.

      These restrictions were considered necessary to be observed by the whole of our party resident on shore; and about sun-set we attended the summons of the king at the morai, who was there officiating as high priest, attended by some of the principal residents of their religious orders, chanting an invocation to the setting fun. This was the commencement of these sacred rites; but as I propose to treat this subject more fully on a future occasion, I shall for the present postpone the detail of my observations, and briefly state, that their prayers seemed to have some regularity and form, and that they did not omit to pray for the welfare of His Britannic Majesty, and our safe and happy return to our native country. A certain degree of order was perceptible throughout these ceremonies, accompanied by many superstitious and mysterious formalities; amongst which, a very principal one was performed about the dawn of day. At this time the most profound silence was required of every creature within hearing of this sacred place. The

king then repeated a prayer in a low tone of voice with the greatest solemnity, and in the middle of it he took up a live pig tied by the legs, and with one effort dashed it to death against the ground: an operation which must be performed without the smallest interruption or cry from the victim, or without the prevailing silence being broken by any noise whatsoever, though of the most trivial kind. This part of the service is supposed to announce their being on terms of friendship with the gods, on which the further ceremonies were carried into execution. A number of hogs, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, were then consecrated for the principal chiefs and priests; the more common productions, such as fish, turtle, fowls, dogs, and the several esculent roots, that compose their food during the intervals between these more sacred taboo's, were not now served up, but for the first time since our arrival, they fared sumptuously on those more delicious articles. The intermediate day and the second night were passed in prayer, during which we found no difficulty in complying with the prescribed regulations; and soon after the sun arose on the 14th, we were absolved from any further attention to their sacred injunctions.

      Most of our Indian friends returned to our party the following day; and as we all now fed alike on consecrated pork, they were enabled to be infinitely more sociable. Our mode of cookery was generally preferred, as far as related to the dressing of fish, flesh, or fowls; but with respect to roots and the bread fruit, they certainly preserved a superiority.

      Tahowmotoo was amongst the most constant of our guests; but his daughter, the disgraced queen, seldom visited our side of the bay. I was however not ignorant of her anxious desire for a reconciliation with Tamaahmaah; nor was the same wish to be misunderstood in the conduct and behaviour of the king, in whose good opinion and confidence I had now acquired such a predominancy, that I became acquainted with his most secret inclinations and apprehensions.

      His unshaken attachment and unaltered affection for Tahowmannoo, was confessed with a sort of internal self conviction of her innocence. He acknowledged with great candour, that his own conduct had not been exactly such as warranted his having insisted upon a separation from his

queen; that although it could not authorize, it in some measure pleaded in excuse for, her infidelity; and, for his own, he alledged, that his high rank and supreme authority was a sort of licence for such indulgences.

      An accommodation, which I considered to be mutually wished by both parties, was urged in the strongest terms by the queen's relations. To effect this desirable purpose, my interference was frequently solicited by them; and, as it concurred with my own inclination, I resolved on embracing the first favorable opportunity to use my best endeavours for bringing a reconciliation about. For although, on our former visit, Tahowmannoo had been regarded with the most favorable impressions, yet, whether from her distresses, or because she had really improved in her personal accomplishments, I will not take upon me to determine, but certain it is, that one, or both of these circumstances united, had so far prepossessed us all in her favor, and no one more so that myself, that it had been long the general wish to see her exalted again to her former dignities. This desire was probably not a little heightened by the regard we entertained for the happiness and repose of our noble and generous friend Tamaahmaah; who was likely to be materially affected not only in his domestic comforts, but in his political situation, by receiving again and reinstating his consort in her former rank and consequence.

      I was convinced, beyond all doubt, that there were two or three of the most considerable chiefs of the island, whose ambitious views were inimical to the interests and authority of Tamaahmaah; and it was much to be apprehended, that if the earned solicitations of the queen's father (whose condition and importance was next in consequence to that of the king) should continue to be rejected, there could be little doubt of his adding great strength and influence to the discontented and turbulent chiefs, which would operate highly to the prejudice, if not totally to the destruction, of Tamaahmaah's regal power; especially as the adverse party seemed to form a constant opposition, consisting of a minority by no means to be despised by the executive power, and which appeared to be a principal constituent part of the Owhyhean politics.

      For these substantial reasons, whenever he was disposed to listen to such discourse, I did not cease to urge the importance and necessity of his adopting measures so highly essential to his happiness as a man, and to his power, interest, and authority as the supreme chief of the island. All this he candidly acknowledged; but his pride threw impediments in the way of a reconciliation which were hard to be removed. He would not of himself become the immediate agent; and although he considered it important that the negociation should be conducted by some one of the principal chiefs in his fullest confidence, yet, to solicit their good offices after having rejected their former overtures with disdain, was equally hard to reconcile to his feelings. I stood nearly in the same situation with his favorite friends; but being thoroughly convinced of the sincerity of his wishes, I spared him the mortification of soliciting the offices he had rejected, by again proffering my services. To this he instantly consented, and observed that no proposal could have met his mind so completely; since, by effecting a reconciliation through my friendship, no umbrage could be taken at his having declined the several offers of his countrymen, by any of the individuals; whereas, had this object been accomplished by any one of the chiefs, it would probably have occasioned jealousy and discontent in the minds of the others.

      All, however, was not yet complete; the apprehension that some concession might be suggested, or expected on his part, preponderated against every other consideration; and he would on no account consent, that it should appear that he had been privy to the business, or that it had been by his desire that a negociation had been undertaken for this happy purpose, but that the whole should have the appearance of being purely the result of accident.

      To this end it was determined, that I should invite the queen, with several of her relations and friends, on board the Discovery, for the purpose of presenting them with some trivial matters, as tokens of my friendship and regard; and that, whilst thus employed, our conversation should be directed to ascertain, whether an accommodation was still an object desired. That on this appearing to be the general wish, Tamaahmaah

would instantly repair on board in a hasty manner, as if he had something extraordinary to communicate; that I should appear to rejoice at this accidental meeting, and by instantly uniting their hands, bring the reconciliation to pass without the least discussion or explanation on either side. But from his extreme solicitude left he should in any degree be suspected of being concerned in this previous arrangement, a difficulty arose how to make him acquainted with the result of the proposed conversation on board, which could not be permitted by a verbal message; at length after some thought he took up two pieces of paper, and of his own accord made certain marks with a pencil on each of them, and then delivered them to me. The difference of these marks he could well recollect; the one was to indicate, that the result of my inquiries was agreeable to his wishes, and the other that it was the contrary. In the event of my making use of the former, he proposed that it should not be sent on shore secretly, but in an open and declared manner, and by way of a joke, as a present to his Owhyhean majesty. The natural gaiety of disposition which generally prevails amongst these islanders, would render this supposed disappointment of the king a subject for mirth, would in some degree prepare the company for his visit, and completely do away every idea of its being the effect of a preconcerted measure.

      This plan was accordingly carried into execution on the following monday. Whilst the queen and her party, totally ignorant of the contrivance, were receiving the compliments I had intended them, their good humour and pleasantry were infinitely heightened by the jest I proposed to pass upon the king, in sending him a piece of paper only, carefully wrapped up in some cloth of their own manufacture, accompanied by a message: importing, that as I was then in the act of distributing favors to my Owhyhean friends, I had not been unmindful of his majesty.

      Tamaahmaah no sooner received the summons, than he hastened on board, and with his usual vivacity exclaimed before he made his appearance, that he was come to thank me for the present I had sent him, and for my goodness in not having forgotten him on this occasion. This was heard by every one in the cabin before he entered; and

all seemed to enjoy the joke except the poor queen, who appeared to be much agitated at the idea of being again in his presence. The instant that he saw her his countenance expressed great surprize, he became immediately silent, and attempted to retire; but having posted myself for the especial purpose of preventing his departure, I caught his hand, and joining it with the queen's, their reconciliation was instantly completed. This was fully demonstrated, not only by the tears that involuntarily stole down the cheeks of both as they embraced each other, and mutually expressed the satisfaction they experienced; but by the behaviour of every individual present, whose feelings on the occasion were not to be repressed; whilst their sensibility testified the happiness which this apparently fortuitous event had produced.

      A short pause produced by an event so unexpected, was succeeded by the sort of good humour that such a happy circumstance would naturally inspire; the conversation soon became general, cheerful, and lively, in which the artifice imagined to have been imposed upon the king bore no small share. A little refreshment from a few glasses of wine, concluded the scene of this successful meeting.

      After the queen had acknowledged in the most grateful terms the weighty obligations she felt for my services on this occasion, I was surprized by her saying, just as we were all preparing to go on shore, that she had still a very great favor to request; which was, that I should obtain from Tamaahmaah a solemn promise, that on her return to his habitation he would not beat her. The great cordiality with which the reconciliation had taken place, and the happiness that each of them had continued to express in consequence of it, led me at first to consider this intreaty of the queen's as a matter of jest only; but in this I was mistaken, for notwithstanding that Tamaahmaah readily complied with my solicitation, and assured me nothing of the kind should take place, yet Tahowmannoo would not be satisfied without my accompanying them home to the royal residence, where I had the pleasure of seeing her restored to all her former honours, and privileges, highly to the satisfaction of all the king's friends; but to the utter mortification of those, who, by

their scandalous reports and misrepresentations, had been the cause of the unfortunate separation.

      The domestic affairs of Tamaahmaah having thus taken so happy a turn, his mind was more at liberty for political considerations; and the cession of Owhyhee to His Britannic Majesty became now an object of his serious concern. On my former visit it had been frequently mentioned, but was at that time disapproved of by some of the leading chiefs; who contended, that they ought not voluntarily to surrender themselves, or acknowledge their subjection, to the government of a superior foreign power, without being completely convinced that such power would protect them against the ambitious views of remote or neighbouring enemies. During our absence this subject had been most seriously discussed by the chiefs in the island, and the result of their deliberations was, an unanimous opinion, that, in order to obtain the protection required, it was important that Tamaahmaah should make the surrender in question, formally to me, on the part of His Majesty; that he should acknowledge himself and people as subjects of the British crown; and that they should supplicate that power to guard them against any future molestation.

      To this act they were greatly stimulated by the treatment they had received from various strangers, by whom they had been lately visited. Of some of these I was well persuaded they had had too just cause to complain; particularly in the fraudulent and deceitful manner in which the traffic with the natives had been conducted.

      In many instances, no compensation whatever had been given by these civilized visitors, after having been fully supplied, on promise of making an ample return, with the several refreshments of the very best quality the country afforded. At other times they had imposed upon the inhabitants, by paying them in commodities of no service or value, though their defects were indetectable by the examination of the natives. This was more particularly the case in those articles which they were most eager to obtain, and most desirous to possess, namely, arms and ammunition; which chiefly composed the merchandize of the North-West American

adventurers. Muskets and pistols were thus exchanged that burst on being discharged the first time, though with the proper loading. To augment the quantity of gunpowder which was fold, it was mixed with an equal, if not a larger, proportion of pounded sea or char-coal. Several of these fire-arms, and some of the powder, were produced for my inspection in this shameful state, and with the hope that I was able to afford them redress.

      Many very bad accidents had happened by the bursting of these fire-arms; one instance in particular came within our knowledge a few days after our arrival. A very fine active young chief had lately purchased a musket, and on his trying its effect, with a common charge of powder, it burst; and he not only lost some of the joints of his fingers on the left hand, but his right arm below the elbow, was otherways so dangerously wounded, that, had it not been for the timely assistance afforded him by some of our gentlemen of the faculty, his life would have been in imminent danger.

      The putting fire-arms into the hands of uncivilized people, is at best very bad policy; but when they are given in an imperfect and insufficient condition for a valuable consideration, it is not only infamously fraudulent, but barbarous and inhuman. Notwithstanding which, should these inhabitants resort to measures of revenge for the injuries thus sustained, they would be immediately stigmatized with the epithets of savages and barbarians, by the very people who had been the original cause of the violence they might think themselves justified in committing.

      Under a conviction of the importance of these islands to Great Britain, in the event of an extension of her commerce over the pacific ocean, and in return for the essential services we had derived from the excellent productions of the country, and the ready assistance of its inhabitants, I lost no opportunity for encouraging their friendly dispositions towards us; notwithstanding the disappointments they had met from the traders, for whose conduct I could invent no apology; endeavouring to impress them with the idea, that, on submitting to the authority and protection of a

superior power, they might reasonably expect they would in future be less liable to such abuses.

      The long continued practice of all civilized nations, of claiming the sovereignty and territorial right of newly discovered countries, had heretofore been assumed in consequence only of priority of seeing, or of visiting such parts of the earth as were unknown before; but in the case of Nootka a material alteration had taken place, and great stress had been laid on the cession that Maquinna was stated to have made of the village and friendly cove to Sen^r. Martinez. Notwithstanding that on the principles of the usage above stated, no dispute could have arisen as to the priority of claim that England had to the Sandwich islands; yet I considered, that the voluntary resignation of these territories, by the formal surrender of the king and the people to the power and authority of Great Britain, might probably be the means of establishing an incontrovertible right, and of preventing any altercation with other states hereafter.

      Under these impressions, and on a due consideration of all circumstances, I felt it to be an incumbent duty to accept for the crown of Great Britain the proffered cession; and I had therefore stipulated that it should be made in the most unequivocal and public manner.

      For this purpose all the principal chiefs had been summoned from the different parts of the island, and most of them had long since arrived in our neighbourhood. They had all become extremely well satisfied with the treatment they had received from us; and were highly sensible of the advantages they derived from our introducing amongst them only such things as were instrumental to their comfort, instead of warlike stores and implements, which only contributed to strengthen the animosities that existed between one island and another and enabled the turbulent and ambitious chiefs to become formidable to the ruling power. They seemed in a great measure to comprehend the nature of our employment, and made very proper distinctions between our little squadron, and the trading vessels by which they had been so frequently visited; that these were engaged in pursuits for the private emolument of the individuals concerned, whilst those un-

der my command acted under the authority of a benevolent monarch, whole chief object in sending us amongst them was to render them more peaceable in their intercourse with each other; to furnish them with such things as could contribute to make them a happier people; and to afford them an opportunity of becoming more respectable in the eyes of foreign visitors.

      These ideas at the same time naturally suggested to them the belief, that it might be in my power to leave the Chatham at Owhyhee for their future protection; but on being informed that no such measure could possibly be adopted on the present occasion, they seemed content to wait with patience, in the expectation that such attention and regard might hereafter be shewn unto them; and in the full confidence that, according to my promise, I would represent their situation and conduct in the most faithful manner, and in the true point of view that every circumstance had appeared to us.

      These people had already become acquainted with four commercial nations of the civilized world; and had been given to understand, that several others similar in knowledge and in power existed in those distant regions from whence these had come. This information, as may reasonably be expected, suggested the apprehension, that the period was not very remote when they might be compelled to submit to the authority of some one of these superior powers; and under that impression, they did not hesitate to prefer the English, who had been their first and constant visitors.

      The formal surrender of the island had been delayed in consequence of the absence of two principal chiefs. Commanow, the chief of Aheedoo, was not able to quit the government and protection of the northern and eastern parts of the country, though it had been supposed he might have delegated his authority to some one of less importance than himself; but after some messages had passed between this chief and Tamaahmaah, it appeared that it had not been possible to dispense with his presence in those parts of the island.

      The other absentee was Tamaahmotoo, chief of Koarra, the person that had captured the Fair American schooner, and with whom I was

not ambitious to have much acquaintance. Since that perfidious melancholy transaction, he had never ventured near any vessel that had visited these shores; this had been greatly to the prejudice of his interest, and had occasioned him inconceivable chagrin and mortification. Of this he repeatedly complained to Tamaahmaah on our former visit; and then, as now, solicited the king's good offices with me to obtain an interview, and permission for his people to resort to the vessels, for the sake of sharing in the superior advantages which our traffic afforded. But, to shew my utter abhorrence of his treacherous character, and as a punishment for his unpardonable cruelty to Mr. Metcalf and his crew, I had hitherto indignantly refused every application that had been made in his favor. When, however, I came seriously to reflect on all the circumstances that had attended our reception and treatment at this island, on our former visit and on the present occasion; when I had reference to the situation and condition of those of our countrymen resident amongst them; and when I recollected that my own counsel and advice had always been directed so to operate on their hasty violent tempers, as to induce them to subdue their animosities, by exhorting them to a forgiveness of past injuries, and proving to them how much their real happiness depended upon a strict adherence to the rules of good fellowship towards each other, and the laws of hospitality towards all such strangers as might visit their shores, I was thoroughly convinced, that implacable resentment, or unrelenting anger, exhibited in my own practice, would ill accord with the precepts I had endeavoured to inculcate for the regulation of theirs; and that the adoption of conciliatory measures, after having evinced, by a discrimination of characters, my aversion to wicked or unworthy persons, was most consistent with my duty as a man, and with the station I then filled.

      In order therefore to establish more firmly, if possible, the friendship that had so mutually taken place, and so uninterruptedly subsisted, between us, I determined, by an act of oblivion in my own mind, to efface all former injuries and offences. To this end, and to shew chat my conduct was governed by the principles I professed, at the re-

quest of Tianna and some other chiefs I admitted the man amongst us, who was reputed to be the first person who had stabbed Captain Cook, and gave leave also to Pareea* to visit the vessels; who during the late contests had been reduced from his former rank and situation, and was at this time resident on an estate belonging to Kahowmotoo on the eastern part of the island, in a very low and abject condition.

      Tamaahmotoo had already suffered very materially in his interest, and had sensibly felt the indignity offered to his pride, in being excluded from our society, debarred the gratification of his curiosity, and the high entertainment which his brethren had partaken at our tables, and in our company. I gave Tamaahmaah to understand, that these considerations, in conjunction with his repeated solicitations, had induced me no longer to regard Tamaahmotoo as undeserving forgiveness, and to allow of his paying us the compliments he had so repeatedly requested; provided that he would engage, in the most solemn manner, that neither himself nor his people (for he generally moved with a numerous train of attendants) would behave in any manner so as to disturb the subsisting harmony of our present society, nor conduct themselves, in future, but with a due regard to honesty, and the principles of hospitality.

      To these conditions I was given to understand, Tamaahmotoo would subscribe without a murmur; and, on their being imparted to him, I received in reply a most humble and submissive answer, that he would forfeit his own existence if any misdemeanor, either on the part of himself, or of any of his followers, should be committed. The district over which his authority regularly extended, was the next district immediately to the northward of us; but his apprehensions left we should retaliate the injuries he had done to others, had induced hint to retire to the eastern parts of Amakooa, as being the most remote from our station. His progress towards Karakakooa, since his visit had been permitted, had been very flow; and as he had advanced he had frequently sent forward messengers, to inquire if I still continued the same friendly disposition towards him; and to request that I would return a renewal of my promises, that he should be received in the

same friendly manner as I had engaged myself he should to Tamaahmaah. Having no intention whatever to depart from this obligation, I felt no difficulty in repeating these assurances as often as they were demanded.

      My promises, however, were not sufficient to remove his suspicions, or to fix his confidence; but on his way he stopped at every morai, there made sacrifices, and consulted the priests as to what was portended in his visit by the omens on these occasions. At first they had been very unfavorable, but as he advanced the prognosticks had become more agreeable to his wishes; and at length, in the morning of the 19th, he appeared in great pomp, attended by a numerous fleet of large canoes that could not contain less than a thousand persons, all paddling with some order into the bay, round its northern point of entrance.

      Tamaahmaah was at this time with me, and gave me to understand, that Tamaahmotoo generally went from place to place in the style and manner he now displayed, and that he was the proudest man in the whole island.

      After the fleet had entered the bay, its course was slowly directed towards the vessels; but on a message being sent from me, desiring that Tamaahmotoo and his party would take up their residence at Kowrowa, he instantly retired with his fleet, and soon afterwards, accompanied by Tamaahmaah, and several of the principal chiefs, he visited the encampment. At this time I happened to be absent, but on my return I found him seated in our marquee, with several of our intimate friends, and some strangers, who were all in the greatest good humour imaginable, and exhibiting a degree of composure that the savage designing countenance of Tamaahmotoo could not even affect. Not the least difficulty could arise in distinguishing this chief from the rest of the company, as his appearance and deportment were a complete contrast to the surrounding group, and confirmed in our opinions the unworthiness of his character, and every report to his disadvantage that had been circulated by his countrymen.

      Our first salutation being over, he caught the earliest opportunity to offer an apology for the offence that had so justly kept us strangers to each other. He complained of having been very ill treated by the crews of

some vessels that had visited Toeaigh bay, and particularly of his having been beaten by Mr. Metcalf, commanding the Eleonora, at the time when his son, who afterwards had the command of the Fair American, was on board the former vessel; and alledged, that the indignities he then received had stimulated him to have recourse to the savage barbarity, before recited, towards the younger Mr. Metcalf and his people, by a sentiment of resentment and revenge; but that he entertained no such wicked designs against any one else; and that his future behaviour, and that of his dependants, would confirm the truth of the protestations he then made. After calling upon the several chiefs to vouch for the sincerity of his intentions, and making every concession that could be expected of him for his late unpardonable conduct, his apprehensions seemed to subside, as his friends appeared to give him credit for his assertions, and came forward as sureties for the propriety of his future behaviour.

      This subject having been fully discussed, and concluded, I shook Tamaahmotoo by the hand as a token of my forgiveness and reconciliation; and on confirming this friendly disposition towards him by presenting him with a few useful articles, approbation and applause were evidently marked in the countenance of every one present.

      By the time this conciliatory interview was at an end, the dinner was announced; and as our consecrated pork was exhausted, Tamaahmaah had taken care to provide such a repast, consisting of dogs, fish, fowls, and vegetables, as was suitable to the keen appetites of our numerous guests. The day was devoted to mirth and festivity; and the king, Terrymitee, Tahowmotoo, Tianna, and, indeed, all our old acquaintances, took their wine and grog with great cheerfulness, and in their jokes did not spare our new visitor Tamaahmotoo, for his awkwardness and ungraceful manners at table.

      The glass went freely round after dinner; and as this ceremony was completely within the reach of Tamaahmotoo's imitation, he was anxious to excel in this accomplishment, by drinking with less reserve than any one at table. I thought it proper to remind him, that as he was not in the habit of drinking spirituous liquors like Tamaahmaah and the other

chiefs present, it was necessary he should be upon his guard, left the wine and grog should disagree with him; but as his spirits became exhilarated he became less attentive to these admonitions, until the operation of the liquors obliged him to retire. In this state it is not possible to imagine a countenance more expressive of indignation, or of savage barbarity and resentment; his eyes were fixed on me as he was carried out of the marquee, whilst his tongue, no longer confined within his lips, indistinctly uttered attoou-anni, signifying that I had poisoned him; and some present, even of our old acquaintance, seemed to be a little concerned for his safety. The king, however, laughed at their apprehension, and explained to them the cause of Tamaahmotoo's indisposition, which, by the assistance of a little warm water, was almost instantly removed, and he re-joined our party, to the great entertainment and diversion of his countrymen, who were still very pleasantly regaling themselves, and in the perfect enjoyment of each other's society.

      In the front of the marquee, seated on the ground, were two or three of Tamaahmotoo's most confidential friends and constant attendants. The behaviour of these people, on their master being taken from table, suddenly changed, from the most unreserved vivacity to a suspicious silence; their eyes sparkled, and their countenances were expressive of distrust and resentment; one of them in particular, who I had not observed before to be armed, had with him a dagger, made out of the broad part of an iron spit, which he handled with great agitation, and seemed to be more than half inclined to make use of it, to gratify the revenge that was struggling within his breast. This man contended, in a snort conversation with Tamaahmaah, that Tamaahmotoo had been given a different bottle to drink out of from the rest of the company; but on the king and other persons drinking some wine from the same bottle, he became pacified; and the recovery of the intoxicated chief completely did away his suspicions of our having entertained towards his master any unfavorable intentions.

      On this occasion, however, I could not avoid reflecting, how indispensably necessary it is, that the greatest circumspection and caution

should be observed in our intercourse with such strangers, unaccustomed to our manners and way of life; because it may frequently happen, that the most disastrous and fatal consequences may arise from causes the least to be apprehended, and in themselves of the most innocent nature. Notwithstanding that in the instance before us nothing uncomfortable took place, yet I was firmly persuaded that we were greatly indebted for our tranquillity, on this occasion, to the great respect and esteem which our conduct towards these people had previously insured us; but had it unfortunately so happened, that Tamaahmotoo had died under the effects of the liquor to which his constitution was unused, and of which he had drank inordinately, our having poisoned him would have been generally received as a fact; whence the natives, naturally concluding that we had been guilty of the most unwarrantable treachery, they would have been pardonable in seeking revenge; and under such impressions ought rather to have been considered as intitled to our pity for being mistaken; than to our resentment for any acts of injury which the misunderstanding might have occasioned,

      The convocation of the principal chiefs of the island by the royal mandate, sailed not to assemble at the same time most of the persons of consequence of both sexes, who took up their residence in our immediate neighbourhood; which became so populous, that there was scarcely a place where a temporary habitation could be erected that remained unoccupied, especially in the vicinity of the two principal villages of Kakooa and Kowrowa. Their numbers amounted now to several thousands, whose cheerful good humour, eagerness to oblige, and orderly behaviour, could not be surpassed by the inhabitants of the most civilized country. The days passed pleasantly to those who devoted them to innocent amusements, and profitably to others who were engaged in bartering away the merchandize they had brought, to exchange for our more valuable commodities; whilst those of our society who extended, their recreation on shore, beyond the limits of the bay, were received with the greatest hospitality, and entertained with the general amusements of the country; which rendered these excursions not less interesting than contributory to health.

      The evenings were generally closed with singing and dancing, and the

nights were as quiet as the most orderly towns in Europe; though it was a late hour most commonly before they retired to rest. The space between sun-set and that time was employed by some parties in social conversion, and by others at various games of chance; and I did not observe a single instance in which these were conducted, even by the losers, but with the greatest temper and good humour.

      Desirous of being constantly upon the spot, left any untoward circumstance should arise to interrupt the happiness we enjoyed, my excursions were confined to a small distance from our encampment. This however did not preclude my attending some of their evening amusements in our neighbourhood. At one of which, in particular, I was very well entertained.

      This was a performance by a single young woman of the name of Puckoo, whose person and manners were both very agreeable. Her dress, notwithstanding the heat of the weather, consisted of an immense quantity of thin cloth, which was wound round her waist, and extended as low as her knees. This was plaited in such a manner as to give a pretty effect to the variegated pattern of the cloth; and was otherways disposed with great taste. Her head and neck were decorated with wreaths of black, red, and yellow feathers; but excepting these she wore no dress from the waist upwards. Her ancles, and nearly half way up her legs, were decorated with several folds of cloth, widening upwards, so that the upper parts extended from the leg at least four inches all round; this was encompassed by a piece of net work, wrought very close, from the meshes of which were hung the small teeth of dogs, giving this part of her dress the appearance of an ornamented funnel. On her wrists she wore bracelets made of the tusks from the largest hogs. These were highly polished and fixed close together in a ring, the concave sides of the tusks being outwards; and their ends reduced to a uniform length, curving naturally each way from the center, were by no means destitute of ornamental effect.

      Thus equipped, her appearance on the stage, before she uttered a single word, excited considerable applause from the numerous spectators, who observed the greatest good order and decorum. In her performance, which was in the open air, she was accompanied by two men,

who were seated on the ground in the character of musicians. Their instruments were both alike, and were made of the outsides or shells of large gourds, open at the top; the lower ends ground perfectly flat, and as thin as possible, without endangering their splitting. These were struck on the ground, covered with a small quantity of dried grass, and in the interval between each stroke, they beat with their hands and fingers on the sides of these instruments, to accompany their vocal exertions, which, with the various motions of their hands and body, and the vivacity of their countenances, plainly demonstrated the interest they had, not only in excelling in their own parts, but also in the applause which the lady acquired by her performance, advancing or retreating from the musicians a few short steps in various directions, as the nature of the subject, and the numerous gestures and motions of her person demanded. Her speech, or poem, was first began in a flow, and somewhat solemn manner, and gradually became energetic, probably as the subject matter became interesting; until at length, like a true actress, the liveliness of her imagination produced a vociferous oration, accompanied by violent emotions. These were received with shouts of great applause; and although we were not sufficiently acquainted with the language to comprehend the subject, yet we could not help being pleased in a high degree with the performance. The music and singing was by no means discordant or unpleasing; many of the actions seemed to be well adapted, and the attitudes exhibited both taste and elegance. The satisfaction we derived at this public entertainment, was greatly increased by the respectful reception we met from all parties, as well performers as spectators, who appeared to be infinitely more delighted by our plaudits, than by the liberal donations which we made on the occasion.

      These amusements had hitherto been confined to such limited performances; but this afternoon was to be dedicated to one of a more splendid nature, in which some ladies of consequence, attendants on the court of Tamaahmaah, were to perform the principal parts. Great pains had been taken, and they had gone through many private rehearsals, in order that the exhibition this evening might be worthy of

the public attention; on the conclusion of which I purposed by a display of fire-works, to make a return for the entertainment they had afforded us.

      About four o'clock, we were informed it was time to attend the royal dames; their theatre, or rather place of exhibition, was about a mile to the southward of our tents, in a small square, surrounded by houses and sheltered by trees; a situation as well chosen for the performance, as for the accommodation of the spectators; who, on a moderate computation, could not be estimated at less than four thousand, of all ranks and descriptions of persons.

      A difference in point of dress had been observed in the audience at the former entertainment, but on this occasion every one shone forth in the best apparel that could be procured; those who had been successful in their commercial transactions with us, did not sail to appear in the best attire they had procured; and such as were destitute of European articles, had exerted their genius to substitute the manufacture and productions of their own country in the most fashionable and advantageous manner. Feathered ruffs, or gartering tape in wreaths, adorned the ladies' heads, and were also worn as necklaces; red cloth, printed linen, or that of their own manufacture, constituted the lower garment, which extended from the waist to the knees. The men likewise had put on their best maros; so that the whole presented a very gay and lively spectacle.

      On our arrival, some of our friends were pleased to be a little jocular with our appearance at so unfashionable an hour, having come much too early for the representation; but as we were admitted into the green room amongst the performers, our time was not unpleasantly engaged. The dress of the actresses was something like that worn by Puckoo, though made of superior materials, and disposed with more taste and elegance. A very considerable quantity of their finest cloth was prepared for the occasion; of this their lower garment was formed, which extended from their waist half way down their legs, and was so plaited as to appear very much like a hoop petticoat. This seemed the most difficult part of their dress to adjust, for Tamaahmaah, who was considered

to be a profound critic, was frequently appealed to by the women, and his directions were implicitly followed in many little alterations. Instead of the ornaments of cloth and net-work decorated with dogs' teeth, these ladies had each a green wreath made of a kind of bind weed, twisted together in different parts like a rope, which was wound round from the ankle, nearly to the lower part of the petticoat. On their wrists they wore no bracelets nor other ornaments, but across their necks and shoulders were green sashes, very nicely made, with the broad leaves of the tee, a plant that produces a very luscious sweet root, the size of a yam*. This part of their dress was put on the last by each of the actresses; and the party being now fully attired, the king and queer, who had been present the whole time of their dressing, were obliged to withdraw, greatly to the mortification of the latter, who would gladly have taken her part as a performer, in which she was reputed to excel very highly. But the royal pair were compelled to retire, even from the exhibition, as they are prohibited by law from attending such amusements, excepting on the festival of the new year. Indeed, the performance of this day was contrary to the established rules of the island, but being intended as a compliment to us, the innovation was admitted.

      As their majesties withdrew, the ladies of rank, and the principal chiefs, began to make their appearance. The reception of the former by the multitude was marked by a degree of respect that I had not before seen amongst any inhabitants of the countries in the pacific ocean. The audience assembled at this time were standing in rows, from fifteen to twenty feet deep, so close as to touch each other; but these ladies no sooner approached their rear, in any accidental direction, than a passage was instantly made for them and their attendants to pass through in the most commodious manner to their respective stations, where they seated themselves on the ground, which was covered with mats, in the most advantageous situation for seeing and hearing the performers. Most of these ladies were of a corpulent form, which, assisted by their stately gait, the dignity with which they moved, and the number of their pages, who followed with fans to court the refreshing breeze, or with fly-flaps to disperse the offending insects, announced their consequence as the wives,

daughters, sisters, or other near relations of the principal chiefs, who however experienced no such marks of respect or attention themselves; being obliged to make their way through the spectators in the best manner they were able.

      The time devoted to the decoration of the actresses extended beyond the limits of the quiet patience of the audience, who exclaimed two or three times, from all quarters, "Hoorah, hoorah, poaliealee," signifying, that it would be dark and black night before the performance would begin. But the audience here, like similar ones in other countries, attending with a pre-disposition to be pleased, was in good humour, and was easily appealed, by the address of our faithful and devoted friend Trywhookee, who was the conductor of the ceremonies, and sole manager on this occasion. He came forward, and apologized by a speech that produced a general laugh, and causing the music to begin, we heard no further murmurs.

      The band consisted of five men, all standing up, each with a highly-polished wooden spear in the left, and a small piece of the same material, equally well finished, in the right hand; with this they beat on the spear, as an accompaniment to their own voices in songs, that varied both as to time and measure, especially the latter; yet their voices, and the founds produced from their rude instruments, which differed according to the place on which the tapering spear was struck, appeared to accord very well. Having engaged us a short time in this vocal performance, the court ladies made their appearance, and were received with shouts of the greatest applause. The musicians retired a few paces, and the actresses took their station before them.

      The heroine of the piece, which consisted of four parts or acts, had once shared the affections and embraces of Tamaahmaah, but was now married to an inferior chief, whose occupation in the household was that of the charge of the king's apparel. This lady was distinguished by a green wreath round the crown of the head; next to her was the captive daughter of Titeeree; the third a younger sister to the queen, the wife of Crymamahoo, who being of the most exalted rank stood in the middle. On each side of these were two of inferior quality, making in all seven actresses.

      They drew themselves up in a line fronting that side of the square that was occupied by the ladies of quality and the chiefs. These were completely detached from the populace, not by any partition, but, as it were, by the respectful consent of the lower orders of the assembly; not one of which trespassed or produced the lead inaccommodation.

      This representation, like that before attempted to be described, was a compound of speaking and singing; the subject of which was enforced by appropriate gestures and actions. The piece was in honor of a captive princess, whose name was Crycowculleneaow; and on her name being pronounced, every one present, men as well as women, who wore any ornaments above their waist, were obliged to take them off, though the captive lady was at least sixty miles distant. This mark of respect was unobserved by the actresses whilst engaged in the performance; but the instant any one sat down, or at the close of the act, they were also obliged to comply with this mysterious ceremony.

      The variety of attitudes into which these women threw themselves, with the rapidity of their action, resembled no amusement in any other part of the world within my knowledge, by a comparison with which I might be enabled to convey some idea of the stage effect thus produced; particularly in the three first parts, in which there appeared much correspondence and harmony between the tone of their voices, and the display of their limbs. One or two of the performers being not quite so perfect as the rest, afforded us an opportunity of exercising our judgment by comparison; and it must be confessed, that the ladies who most excelled, exhibited a degree of graceful action, for the attainment of which it is difficult to account.

      In each of these first parts the songs, attitudes, and actions, appeared to me of greater variety than I had before noticed amongst the people of the great South Sea nation, on any former occasion. The whole, though I am unequal to its description, was supported with a wonderful degree of spirit and vivacity; so much indeed that some of their exertions were made with such a degree of agitating violence, as seemed to carry the performers beyond what their strength was able to sustain; and had the performance finished with the third act, we should have retired from their

theatre with a much higher idea of the moral tendency of their drama, than was conveyed by the offensive, libidinous scene, exhibited by the ladies in the concluding part. The language of the song, no doubt, corresponded with the obscenity of their actions; which were carried to a degree of extravagance that were calculated to produce nothing but disgust, even to the most licentious.

      This hooarah occupied about an hour, and concluded with the descending fun, it being contrary to law that such representations should continue after that time of day. The spectators instantly retired in the most orderly manner, and dispersed in the greatest good humour; apparently highly delighted with the entertainment they had received. But as the gratification I had promised on this occasion required the absence of light, and could not be exhibited to advantage until a late hour, the multitude were permitted to re-assemble in our neighbourhood soon afterwards for this purpose.

      Our exhibition commenced about seven in the evening, and as we still possessed a considerable variety of fire-works in a tolerably good state of preservation, an ample assortment was provided; and on being thrown off, they produced from the expecting multitude such acclamations of surprize and admiration from all quarters, as may be easily imagined to arise from the feelings of persons totally unacquainted with objects of such an extraordinary nature. Tamaahmaah fired the two first rockets; but there were only one or two of the chiefs who had courage sufficient to follow his example; and it was observed amongst those who were near us at the time, that in these apprehension was more predominant than pleasure. The whole concluded with some excellent Bengal-lights, which illuminating the neighbourhood to a great distance, almost equal to the return of day, seemed to produce more general satisfaction than the preceding part of the exhibition; and on its being announced, that the light was shewn to conduct them safely to their respective habitations, the crowd retired; and in the space of half an hour the usual stillness of the night was so completely restored, that it would rather have been imagined there had not been a single stranger in our neighbourhood, than that thousands had so recently departed.

      As the number of these strangers had increased, so a gradual augmentation of the king's nightly guard had taken place; but on this evening the guards were at least doubled, and in number amounted to about forty, armed with pallaloos and iron daggers, and stationed in different places about the royal residence.

      This having been the twelfth day's absence of Mr. Menzies and his party, and having far exceeded the limits of time that I expected their proposed excursion could have required, I began to be anxious left some accident or indisposition had detained them in the interior country; (being perfectly satisfied that there was not the least danger to be apprehended from the natives,) especially as I had received only one note from the party, and that on the commencement of their journey from the south point of the island; and although their excursion had not at that time been attended with the expedition I could have wished, yet I had reason before now to have expected their return.

      The period of our departure being fast approaching, in order that we might be in readiness to sail on the arrival of the party, I directed that every thing should be prepared the next morning for embarking such matters as we had on shore. Most of the principal chiefs having, as usual, joined our party at breakfast, the highest satisfaction and admiration was expressed at the exhibition that closed the entertainments of the preceding day; whilst the preparations that were making for our departure occasioned a universal regret. It was well known that I had already exceeded the time of my intended stay, and that the hour would come when a separation must inevitably take place, and probably never to meet again. Such were the topics of our conversation round the breakfast table, when information was brought that a cartridge box, which the centinel had suffered to lie carelessly about, had been stolen from on board the Chatham. On this unpleasant circumstance being first reported, Tamaahmaah seemed to be indifferent as to its recovery; alledging that the centinel had been much in fault in not having taken proper care of his accoutrements. His reasoning was undoubtedly correct, and I would willingly have passed the transgression unnoticed, rather than have risked the chance of any interruption to our present harmony;

had not the uniform negative that I had put upon every solicitation from these people, for arms or ammunition, and which was only to be supported by saying, that all such articles belonged to His Majesty King George, and that they were strictly tabooed, rendered it absolutely necessary that I should insist on the restitution of the thing stolen.

      The conversation that this unlucky incident produced, drew for a short time a veil of gloom over the cheerfulness which had generally pre although this was extremely unpleasant at so interesting a period, it attended with the good effect of stimulating the king to send Kahowmotoo in quest of the cartridge-box, who, in about half an hour, brought it to us. It had been found in the house of Cavaheeroo, the chief of the district of Kaoo, and the principal person at the village Kowrowa; but of the thief, who was a woman, no tidings could be procured; as she had either made her escape, or was protected under the peculiar privileges with which that village is endowed, in giving protection to offenders of various descriptions, whilst they remain within its precincts.

      The accoutrement however being restored, with its contents undiminished and in good order, all parties were instantly reconciled, and our society brought back to its former standard of harmony and good spirits; though it was apparent that the latter had received some little check, in consequence of the indications of the near approach of our departure, by the removal of our several matters from the shores to the vessels.

      In the afternoon, intelligence was brought that our travellers had reached the summit of Mowna Roa, and that they were on their way back; but, from the native who brought us this information, it appeared, that they would yet be some days before they arrived, as they intended to return by land, and the roads they had to pass were very indifferent.

      Having resumed my residence on board the ship, I was on friday complimented with a formal visit from all the great personages in the neighbourhood, except Cavaheeroo; who, having accepted the stolen cartridge-box, I considered as an accessary in the theft, and on that account I would not permit him to enter the ship. This exception was no small mortification to his pride, nor disappointment to his interest, as none of his associates

returned to the shore without a handsome token of my esteem. Tamaahmotoo, and his retinue, though less deserving of such marks of attention, and with little claim to any acknowledgment from me, were not omitted, but received such presents as their respective conditions and the occasion seemed to demand. With this party had come a daughter of Tamaahmaah, about nine years of age. She had not visited us when we were here before, nor had we ever seen her until the arrival of Tamaahmotoo, to whose charge she had some time since been entrusted for the purpose of being educated and brought up agreeably to the custom of these islands. She bore a striking likeness to her father, and though far from being handsome, had an expressive intelligent countenance, and was a very cheerful and engaging girl.

      All the chiefs that were expected being now assembled, I inquired of the king when the proposed voluntary cession of the island was to be confirmed. A short conversation immediately took place between Tamaahmaah and some of his counsellors then present; the result of which was, that as a taboo-poory was to commence on the evening of the ensuing sunday, and would continue until tuesday morning, they were unanimously of opinion, that it would be highly proper to embrace that opportunity of reconsulting the priests, that each might be fully satisfied with the propriety of the measure they were about to adopt. Tamaahmaah at the same time requested, that I would attend him at the grand morai during the interdiction.

      This was a reply that I did not altogether like, nor did I expect it, as they were all convinced how anxious I now was to take my departure. A final appeal to the priests, however, I was given to understand, could not be dispensed with; and as there was little probability of the party from Mowna Roa returning much before that time, I was induced to promise that I would comply with their wishes.

      There appeared little reason to believe that the cession would not be made, although some previous ceremonies were still wanting, before they would be enabled to make the surrender in form, which at this time was fixed for the following tuesday; immediately after which, I informed them, I should sail with the land wind for Tyahtatooa and Toeaigh,

to the former, for the purpose of more particularly examining the anchorage, and to the latter for the purpose of procuring such a further stock of refreshments as we could conveniently take; well knowing that we ought to place little dependence on the precarious supply that Mowee, Woahoo, or the rest of the islands to leeward might afford. The whole of the party did me the favor to say, that they would remain on board until we quitted Owhyhee.

      I was very much concerned to find, that my earnest endeavours to bring about a reconciliation, and to establish peace amongst these islands, had proved unsuccessful. The mutual distrust that continued to exist amongst the people of the several islands, which I had foreseen to be the greatest difficulty there was to combat, and which I had apprehended would be an insurmountable obstacle, had proved fatal to the attainment of this desirable object. Immediately on my arrival here, I inquired if my letter from Mowee had been received, and received an answer in the negative. But I was given to understand, that a small party from that island had arrived on the western side of Owhyhee, whose object was suspected to be that of seizing on some of the inhabitants there, for the purpose of taking them away, and of sacrificing them in their religious rites at Mowee; and some reports went so far as to assert that this diabolical object had been effected. On further inquiry, however, this fact appeared to be by no means established; as it was positively insisted on by some, and by others as positively denied. One circumstance, however, both parties agreed in, that of the people from Mowee having been under the necessity of making a hasty retreat. I could not under stand that any chief was in the neighbourhood of the place where they had landed; and Tamaahmaah himself, either from a conviction that they had been unfairly dealt with, or that I should disapprove of the suspicious narrow policy that had influenced the conduct of his people on this occasion, was unwilling to allow that he had been made duly acquainted with their arrival, and was always desirous of avoiding the subject in conversation.

      After many attempts to fix his attention, I at length explained to him what was the result of my negociation with the chiefs at Mowee; and

he then seemed to concur in opinion with me, that the party from Mowee who had landed on the western side of Owhyhee, could be no other than the embassy charged with my letter, and inverted with powers to negcciate for a general pacification.

      It was some time before I was able to make myself thoroughly master of these circumstances; yet long before; I had ascertained with any tolerable precision what was the state of the business, I was perfectly convinced that no overtures of this nature would be attended with success, and that nothing but by my passing backwards and forwards between the several islands in the manner before stated, would answer any good purpose; could I have done this, I entertained no doubt of accomplishing this desirable object; but neither our circumstances nor our time would admit of my engaging in this talk, particularly at the present season of the year, when very boisterous weather usually prevails amongst these islands, against which we should occasionally have been obliged to beat to windward. Our sails, rigging, and probably our masts, would necessarily have suffered in point of wear and tear, even should we have been so fortunate to have avoided any material damage, by accident; and as our stock of those essential articles, even with the supply we had received from port Jackson, which was very short of what I had requested, demanded the greatest œconomy and care to make them last, without subjecting us to unpleasant and even disastrous circumstances, during our progress in the unaccomplished part of our voyage; I was under the necessity of declining any further personal interference, notwithstanding that I was satisfied the happiness and tranquillity of many thousands might have been secured, at least for a time, could I have undertaken this important business.

      This conviction did not sail to claim a great share of my attention; but the execution of the several important objects of our voyage that yet remained unfinished, and which were of an extensive nature, compelled me to give up all thoughts of secondary considerations. The completion of our business that appertained to the north pacific ocean, I had so far hopes of effecting in the course of the ensuing season, that I had not demanded the return of the Dædalus with a further supply of stores, nor

indeed was it certain that such a supply could have been obtained from port Jackson; we had therefore to rely on the dispensations of Divine Providence, and our own care and frugality, for the accomplishment of the remaining part of our survey with the stores we had still remaining.

      Tamaahmaah having become acquainted with our intended route from Karakakooa, and being watchful to embrace every opportunity by which he could continue his good offices, either for our present comfort, or our future welfare, ordered one of his principal domestics to depart immediately for Toeaigh; there to provide according to his directions such things as we stood in need of, and to have them in readiness for embarkation on our arrival.

      After these, and other less important arrangements had been made relative to our departure, the king with his companions returned to the shore. About this time the gentlemen made their appearance from Mowna Roa, having descended from the mountains in a straight line to the sea shore, from whence they had returned by water; but had not this been their route, their journey hither would have occupied some few days more. At first sight of the travellers I regretted the delay I had so recently consented to; but it was now too late to retract, especially as, on the most trivial occasions, I had made it a point to perform all promises made to these people with scrupulous punctuality. Two or three days therefore were not of sufficient importance to us, to induce my breaking in upon the arrangements I had just made with Tamaahmaah; who would easily have discovered, that no new cause had arisen for any alteration in our plan; and I therefore determined to remain contented until tuesday, when the restrictions of the taboo were to cease. This afforded an opportunity to some of the officers, whose attention to their several duties had confined them hitherto to the sea shore, to make a short excursion into the adjacent country.

      The building of Tamaahmaah's vessel was now so far advanced, that I considered its completion an easy task for his people to perform under the direction of Boid, who most probably had, by his attention to our carpenters, added some information to his former knowledge in shipbuilding. Her frame was completely fixed, and all that remained to be

done was some part of the planking, and sitting up her inside according to the taste and fancy of Tamaahmaah. Having no doubt but all this would be effected with little difficulty by themselves, on saturday our carpenters were ordered to repair on board with their tools. Besides the assistance I had afforded in building the hull of the vessel, I had furnished Tamaahmaah with all the iron work she would further require; oakum and pitch for caulking, proper masts, and a set of schooner sails, with canvass, needles, and twine to repair them hereafter. With respect to cordage, they had a sufficiency of their own manufacture for her rigging, schooner fashion, and every other necessary purpose.

      Tamaahmaah was exceedingly well pleased, and thankful for our exertions; and it was extremely gratifying to my feelings to reflect, that such valuable opportunities should have offered for bestowing this gratification upon the king, and many essential benefits upon his people; all of whom were now well convinced, that these superior advantages were only to be obtained by the constant exercise of the same honesty and civility, by which these had been secured to them on the present occasion.

      Very little doubt can be entertained of the exalted pleasure Tamaahmaah would enjoy in the attainment, by honorable means, of so desirable an object as his new schooner; especially at those times, when his mind recurring to the virtuous causes that had given him so valuable a possession, he would naturally make a comparison between them, and the criminal measures pursued by Tamaahmotoo for a similar acquisition; which he had no sooner possessed by treachery and barbarity, than he was deprived of it with indelible marks of infamy, and the loss of his reputation and character.

      On sunday evening, agreeably to my promise, I accompanied Tamaahmaah to the morai, and submitted to all the forms, regulations, and restrictions of the taboo. The ceremonies were similar to those I had before observed, though they were more concise, less formal, and attended by fewer persons.

      I was not on this, as on the former occasion, purely an idle spectator; but was in some degree one of the actors. Whilst in the morning the principal ceremonies and prayers were performing, I was called upon to

give my opinion on several matters that were agitated at one time by the king, and at others by the principal priests. Amongst these, was the propriety of their remaining at peace, or making war against the other islands? The cession of the island; and if by that voluntary measure, they would be considered as the subjects of Great Britain ? Under this impression, in what manner ought they to conduct themselves towards all strangers, as well those who might visit them from civilized nations, as the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands? With these, and some other questions of less importance, I was very seriously interrogated; and I made such answers to each as was consistent with my own situation, and, as I considered, were most likely to tend in future to their happiness and tranquillity.

      I was not prohibited in my turn from offering my suggestions, or demanding their attention to my requisitions. Anxious left. the object I had so long had in view should hereafter be defined; namely, that of establishing a breed of sheep, cattle, and other European animals in these islands, which with so much difficulty, trouble, and concern, I had at length succeeded so far as to import in good health and in a thriving condition; I demanded, that they should be tabooed for ten years, with a. discretionary power in the king alone to appropriate a certain number of the males of each species, in case that sex became predominant, to the use of his own table; but that in so doing the women should not be precluded partaking of them, as the intention of their being brought to the island was for the general use and benefit of every inhabitant of both sexes, as soon as their numbers should be sufficiently increased to allow of a general distribution amongst the people. This was unanimously approved of, and faithfully promised to be observed with one exception only; that with respect to the meat of these several animals, the women were to be put on the same footing as with their dogs and fowls; they were to be allowed to eat of them, but not of the identical animal that men had partaken, or of which they were to partake. Much conversation took place on these different subjects, when not otherways engaged in functions of a religious nature; all these ceasing at sun-

rise the next morning, I repaired on board, and found every thing in readiness for our departure.

      In the forenoon the king and queen, accompanied by Terreemytee the king's brother, Crymamahow, half brother to the king, and chief of the district of Amakooa; Kahowmotoo, father to the queen, and chief of the district of Kona; Kavaheeroo, chief of the district of Kaow; Tianna, chief of the district of Poona; Tamaahmotoo, chief of the district of Koarra; Trywhookoe, half brother to the king, and our most faithful protector and purveyor at the encampment; all assembled on board the Discovery, for the purpose of formally ceding and surrendering the island of Owhyhee to me for His Britannic Majesty, his heirs and successors; there were present on this occasion besides myself, Mr. Puget, and all the officers of the Discovery.

      Tamaahmaah opened the business in a speech, which he delivered with great moderation and equal firmness. He explained the reasons (already stated) that had induced him to offer the island to the protection of Great Britain; and recounted the numerous advantages that himself, the chiefs, and the people, were likely to derive by the surrender they were about to make. He enumerated the several nations that since Captain Cook's discovery of these islands had occasionally resorted hither, each of which was too powerful for them to resist; and as these visitors had come more frequently to their shores, and their numbers seemed to increase, he considered that the inhabitants would be liable to more ill treatment, and still greater impositions than they had yet endured, unless they could be protected against such wrongs by some one of the civilized powers with whose people they had become acquainted; that at present they were completely independent, under no sort of engagement whatever, and were free to make choice of that state which in their opinion was most likely by its attention to their security and interests, to answer the purpose for which the proposed surrender was intended. For his own part he did not hesitate to declare the preference he entertained for the king of Great Britain, to whom he was ready to acknowledge his submission; and demanded to know who had any objection to follow his example.

      This produced an harangue from each of the five chiefs, all of whom had some ideas to offer on this important subject.

      The warlike spirit and ambitious views of Kahowmotoo had long taught him to indulge the flattering hope, that on some future day he should be enabled to acquire the sovereignty of Mowee. This prompted him to state in a spirited and manly speech, that on their becoming connected and attached to so powerful a nation, they ought no longer to suffer the indignities which had been offered to their island Owhyhee by the people of Mowee; he also candidly enumerated the offences that Mowee had justly to complain of in return; but as these bore no proportion to her aggressions, he contended that she ought to be chastized, and that when a force for their protection should be obtained from England, the first object of its employment ought to be the conquest of Mowee; after which the care of its government should be intruded to some respectable chief, whose interest and inclination could be depended upon as being friendly towards Owhyhee.

      Kavaheeroo, a chief of a very different disposition, content with the station he filled, and the comforts he enjoyed, looked forward with pleasure to the consequences that were likely to result from the adoption of the measure proposed; having no doubt of its tending to their future safety and protection, which had now become highly expedient in some way to effect, and of its being the means of producing general pacification with their relations and friends, as he termed them, on the other islands.

      Tianna, after agreeing with Kahowmotoo, that Mowee ought to be chastized; and with Cavaheeroo, in the necessity of Owhyhee being protected; proposed that some persons, duly authorized for that purpose, should reside on shore by way of guards, and stated that a vessel or two would be requisite to defend them by sea. He very judiciously observed further, that so great a similarity existed between the people of the four nations with whom they were already acquainted, but more particularly so between the English and the Americans, that in the event of their present surrender being accepted, and of a vessel being sent out for their protection, they should be doubtful as to the reality of such

persons coming from England, unless some of the officers then present, or some of those on board the vessels with whom they were acquainted, and who they were convinced did belong to King George, should return to Owhyhee with the succours required. This appeared to him a measure of so much consequence that it could not be dispensed with, for otherways, any of the distant nations, knowing they had ceded the island to the English government, might send to them ships and men whom they had never before seen, and who, by asserting they had come from England and belonged to King George, would deceive them into the obedience of a people against whom they should afterwards most probably revolt.

      These were the prominent features in the several speeches made on the occasion; in every one of which their religion, government, and domestic œconomy was noticed; and it was clearly understood, that no interference was to take place in either; that Tamaahmaah, the chiefs and priests, were to continue as usual to officiate with the same authority as before in their respective stations, and that no alteration in those particulars was in any degree thought of or intended.

      These preliminaries being fully discussed, and thoroughly understood on both sides, the king repeated his former proposition, which was now unanimously approved of, and the whole party declared their consent by saying, that they were no longer Tanata no Owhyhee, (i. e.) the people of Owhyhee; but Tanata no Britannee, (i. e.) the people of Britain. This was instantly made known to the surrounding crowd in their numerous canoes about the vessels, and the same expressions were cheerfully repeated throughout the attending multitude.

      Mr. Puget, accompanied by some of the officers, immediately went on shore; there displayed the British colours, and took possession of the island in His Majesty's name, in conformity to the inclinations and desire of Tamaahmaah and his subjects. On this ceremony being finished, a salute was fired from the vessels, after which the following inscription on copper was deposited in a very conspicuous place at the royal residence.

      "On the 25th of february, 1794, Tamaahmaah, king of Owhyhee, in council with the principal chiefs of the island assembled on board His Britannic Majesty's sloop Discovery in Karakakooa bay, and in the

presence of George Vancouver, commander of the said sloop; Lieutenant Peter Puget, commander of his said Majesty's armed tender the Chatham; and the other officers of the Discovery; after due consideration, unanimously ceded the said island of Owhyhee to His Britannic Majesty, and acknowledged themselves to be subjects of Great Britain."

      Such a distribution of useful or ornamental articles was now made to the principal chiefs, their favorite women, and other attendants, as Tamaahmaah and myself esteemed to be suitable to their respective ranks and stations on this memorable occasion.

      Thus concluded the ceremonies of ceding the island of Owhyhee to the British crown; but whether this addition to the empire will ever be of any importance to Great Britain, or whether the surrender of the island will ever be attended with any additional happiness to its people, time alone must determine. It. was however a matter of great satisfaction to me, that this concession had not only been voluntary, but general; that it had not been suggested by a party, nor been the wish of a few, but the desire of every inhabitant with whom we had any conversation on the subject; most of these having attended the external ceremonies, without shewing any other signs than those of perfect approbation; and the whole business having been conducted by the king and his advisers with great steadiness, and in the most serious manner, left me no doubt of the sincerity of their intentions to abide strictly by their engagement.

      This transaction must ever be considered, under all the attendant circumstances, as of a peculiar nature; and will serve to shew that man, even in this rude uncultivated state, will not, except from apprehension or the most pressing necessity, voluntarily deliver up to another his legitimate rights of territorial jurisdiction.

      With respect to astronomical observations whilst at Karakakooa, our attention had been principally directed to the rates and errors of the chronometers; these on being landed the 21st of january, 1794, shewed

      The latitude, by twenty-one meridional altitudes of the sun, and three meridional altitudes of the stars, varying from 19° 27' 27" to 19° 28' 27", and differing 20" from the mean result of the observations made in the month of march, 1793, shewed by the mean result of both years, observations, the latitude to be 19° 28' 2".

CHAPTER II.

Quit Karakakooa — Visit Tyahtatooa and Toeaigh bays — Some description of the anchorage at those places — Examine the northern sides of Mowee, Woahoo, and Attowai — Observations on the anchorage at Attowai and Onehow — Leave the Sandwich islands.

      NOTHING now remained to detain us in Karakakooa bay, the memorable spot where Captain Cook unfortunately fell a sacrifice to his undaunted and enterprising spirit. Notwithstanding it had, in that melancholy instance, proved fatal to one of the most illustrious navigators that the world ever produced, yet to us it had proved an asylum, where the hospitable reception, and friendly treatment were such as could not have been surpassed by the most enlightened nation of the earth. The unremitted attention in the superior classes, to preserve good order, and insure the faithful discharge of every service undertaken by the subordinate description of the people, produced an uniform degree of respect in their deportment, a cheerful obedience to the commands they received, and a strict observance and conformity to fair and honest dealing in all their commercial intercourse. Excepting in the instances of the table knives, the centinel's cartridge-box, and a few others of little moment, occasioned, very probably, by our want of discretion in leaving irresistible temptations in their way, we had little to complain of; and such circumstances of this nature as did occur, ought only to be considered as reflections on the particular individuals concerned, and not as generally characteristic of the whole people.

      All our friends were prepared to attend us; some were on board, and others were in their canoes, ready to follow the ship as soon as she got under sail. This was effected about three in the morning of wednesday. Accompanied by the Chatham, we directed our course, with a light land breeze, close along the shore, toward Tyahtatooa bay; the morning was delightfully pleasant, and the surrounding objects, whilst they attracted our attention, excited also our admiration. The country which, as we passed, rose with a gradual ascent from the sea shore, seemed to be in a high state of cultivation, and was interspersed with a great number of extensive villages; whilst our numerous companions on the surface of a serene tranquil ocean, fanned by a gentle breeze, to which some spread their sails, and the rest kept up with us by leisurely paddling along, added considerable beauty to the interesting scene, and exhibited, by this numerous population, that wealth which the improved state of this part of the island so strongly indicated. About eight o'clock we anchored in Tyahtatooa bay, in 15 fathoms water, sand and rocky bottom.

      According to Mr. Meares's account of Mr. Douglas's voyage, this place is represented as equal, if not superior, to Karakakooa, for secure anchorage; but to us it appeared in a very different point of view, as it is formed by a small bend only in the general direction of the coast, scarcely deserving the name of a bay. Its northernmost point from us bore by compass N. 69 w.; the village called Ane-oo-rooa, being the nearest shore, N. 30 E., about half a mile distant; and the point of Kowrooa S. 22 E. The station we had taken was as close to the land as we could with prudence He, and the bottom, in all directions where we founded, was a mixture of rocks and sand. A considerable swell rolled in from the westward, and by the beaten appearance of the rocks that chiefly com-posed the shore, this appeared to be in general the case; and for that reason not a very eligible resting place for shipping. It however possesses an advantage with respect to landing, superior to Karakakooa. This convenience is produced by the jutting out of two points; between these is a small cove, defended by some rocks lying before it, which break the violence of the surge, and render the communication with the shore very commodious. The landing is on a sandy beach, before a grove of cocoa

nut, bread fruit, and other trees, in the midst of which the village is situated. Towards the south part of this cove is a spring, which rose very rapidly from amongst some rocks that are generally covered with the sea water; but when this is low, which is sometimes the case, it is found to produce a stream of excellent fresh water; and there can be no doubt, by using proper means, that its current might be diverted, and made subservient to the domestic use of the neighbourhood, and to vessels refuting at Karakakooa, without their being under the necessity of submitting to the tardy process we were compelled to adopt; especially as the distance between the two places is only ten miles.

      The southern base of mount Worroray forms these shores. This mountain, with Mowna Kaah, and Mowna Roa, form each a large mass of elevated land, of which the island chiefly consists, though mount Worroray is the smallest.

      Accompanied by Tamaahmaah, some of the officers, and several of the chiefs, I visited the royal residence at this place; which consisted of three of the neatest constructed houses we had yet seen; but not having been constantly inhabited for some time past, they were not in good repair. This habitation of the king, like that at Karakakooa, was in the neighbourhood of a grand morai, close to the sea side. The morai was the most complete structure of the kind, and kept in the greatest order and repair, of any that had fallen under our observation. It was decorated with several statues, or idols, carved out of the trunks of large trees, and meant to imitate the human form; but they were the most gigantic and preposterous figures that can be imagined.

      Having satisfied our curiosity, we returned on board to dinner, which was purposely ordered of beef and mutton, to give all the chiefs an idea of the value of the animals I had imported, as articles of food; our party was numerous, and they unanimously agreed that both were excellent. The beef, though salted, seemed to have the preference in their opinion; the mutton was by most considered to be very similar in its taste to the flesh of their dogs, which they very highly esteem. The general opinion was taken by vote on the superior excellence of mutton to dog's flesh,

and the preference was decided in favor of mutton, only by the casting voice of Tamaahmaah.

      I was very anxious to quit this station, which is situated in latitude 19° 37½', longitude 203° 54½', left the rocky bottom should damage our cables; but light breezes from the sea, succeeded by calms, prevented our moving until midnight, when, with a gentle breeze from the shore, we proceeded slowly along the coast to the northward.

      In the forenoon of the 27th, we had a light breeze from the westward; with this we steered for the anchorage at Toeaigh, but a strong current setting to the south-westward, we approached it very slowly; the weather however was fair and pleasant, and the objects about us were cheerful and entertaining, notwithstanding the adjacent shores were uninteresting, being chiefly composed of volcanic matter, and producing only a few detached groves of cocoa nut trees, with the appearance of little cultivation, and very few inhabitants. The deficiency of the population on shore was amply compensated by the number of our friends that accompanied us afloat in canoes of all descriptions; these still preserving the same orderly behaviour and cheerful good humour, our change of situation was scarcely perceivable, as the same sociability and friendly intercourse continued which had existed at Karakakooa.

      As this evening was to be devoted to an appointed taboo that would continue until the morning of the 1st of march, the king and the rest of our friends went on shore for the purpose of attending their religious duties. The weather in the evening being equally, with variable winds and alternate calms, gave me reason to believe it very probable that we should not reach our destination before it was dark; on intimating this to Tamaahmaah, he promised to have a light placed in such a situation, as would conduct us to it with safety.

      It was not however until near four the next morning that we gained foundings, when we anchored in 30 fathoms water, sandy bottom. After it was day-light we removed to the best anchorage in this bay, whose north-west point bore by compass N. 36 W., and the morai, N. 68 E.; this is a conspicuous object, and a good leading mark to this anchorage; it is situated on a barren eminence to the southward of the village, and

is to be kept in a line with a small saddle hill, on the eastern land descending from the higher parts, over the village of Toeaigh, on the north side of this spacious open bay. Its south point descending gradually from Worroray, and forming a low point, bore by compass S. 31 W.; within this point on the rising land are some elevated hummocks; the third of these, from the point forming a kind of saddle hill in a line with a low, projecting, black, rocky point, in the middle of the bay, bearing S. 22 W., is a further direction, and a cross mark for this anchorage; from whence the watering place lies S. 79 E., a mile and a half distant. The summit of Mowna-kaah also bore by compass S. 68 E.; Mowna Roa, S. 33 E.; and Worroray, S. 5 W. In this situation the depth of water was 25 fathoms, the bottom a stiff clay, and good holding ground; incommoded by the patch of rocky bottom, stated on our former visit to be at the depth of to fathoms only; but on a more minute search, this was now discovered to shoal suddenly, and the depth to decrease to 7, 4, and 3 fathoms, about the fourth of a mile to the south-westward of the station we had taken; and consequently to be a very great inconveniency to the roadstead, which at best, in my opinion, is but a very indifferent one; being intirely exposed to the north-west winds, and the western oceanic swell, which beats with great violence on the reefs that encompass the shores. These reefs stretch out a mile or upwards, leaving between them and the land a narrow channel, that affords comfortable and commodious landing for small boats and canoes; but the landing is at too great a distance from the place of anchorage to allow of protecting any debarkation from the ship.

      The only circumstances that seem to render this a desirable stopping place, are the run of water, which however does not constantly flow; and the probability of procuring refreshments, from its contiguity to the fertile, and populous western part of the district of Koaarra, and the plains of Whymea, lying behind the land that constitutes this part of the sea coast.

      The country rises rather quickly from the sea side, and, so far as it could be seen on our approach, had no very promising aspect; it forms a kind of glacis, or inclined plane in front of the mountains, immediately

behind which the plains of Whymea are stated to commence, which are reputed to be very rich and productive, occupying a space of several miles in extent, and winding at the foot of these three lofty mountains far into the country. In this valley is a great tract of luxuriant, natural pasture, whither all the cattle and sheep imported by me were to be driven, there to roam unrestrained, to "increase and multiply" far from the fight of strangers, and consequently less likely to tempt the inhabitants to violate the sacred promise they had made; the observance of which, for the time stipulated in their interdiction, cannot sail to render the extirpation of these animals a task not easily to be accomplished.

      This day being devoted to their holy rites, the king, with all the provincial chiefs, remained in sacred retirement. The same cause operated to deprive us of the society of our other visitors, particularly the females, who are on no account permitted to be afloat on these occasions.

      The next morning the king, with all our friends, were again about the vessels. In the course of the day a further proof of the liberality of Tamaahmaah's disposition was given, by his presenting us with near an hundred hogs of the largest size, and as great a quantity of vegetables as both vessels could well dispose of; with offers of a further supply if these were insufficient.

      It was my intention to have sailed with the land wind in the evening, but Tamaahmaah pointing out that since thursday his engagements on shore had totally deprived him of our society; first by his attendance on their religious ceremonies, and afterwards in procuring and sending us the supplies we required; and soliciting, at the same time, in the most earnest manner, that the last day should be dedicated to the enjoyment of each other's company, I was induced to remain the following day, to prove to him that there was no indulgence in my power, compatible with my duty, that I would not grant, in return for the friendship and regard he had on all occasions manifested towards us, and that in the most princely and unlimited manner.

      The succeeding day was consequently passed in receiving farewell visits, and making farewell acknowledgments to our numerous friends; who all

expressed the high satisfaction they had experienced during our residence amongst them, and the deep regret they felt at our departure from the island; after which they were seen to steal away gently and reluctantly from a scene that had afforded them so many valuable acquirements, and so much pleasing entertainment. By sun-set nearly the whole group was dispersed in the several directions to which their inclinations or necessities led. The occurrences of this day did not pass over without producing some impressions on our sensibility, from the repeated ardent solicitations that we would come back to them again, and from the undisguised sincerity of the wishes and prayers that were offered up for our future happiness and prosperity.

      As our departure was to take place with the first breeze from the land, Tamaahmaah and his queen, unwilling to take leave until the very last moment, remained on board until near midnight, when they departed, with hearts too full to express the sensations which the moment of separation produced in each; with them their honest and judicious counsellors Young and Davis returned to the shore. The good sense, moderation, and propriety of conduct in these men, daily increased their own respectability, and augmented the esteem and regard, not only of the king and all his friends, but even of those who were professedly adverse to the existing government, and who consequently were at first inimical to their interest.

      As it was a great uncertainty, whether we should or should not return again to these islands, I had given these two worthy characters their choice of taking their passage with me to their native country, or of remaining on the island in the same situation which they had so long filled with credit to themselves, and with so much satisfaction to the king and the rest of the principal people. After mature consideration, they preferred their present way of life, and were desirous of continuing at Owhyhee; observing, that being destitute of resources, on their return home, (which, however, they spoke of in a way that did honor to their hearts and understandings) they must be again exposed to the vicissitudes of a life of hard labour, for the purpose of merely acquiring a precarious supply of the most common necessaries of life; objects which, for

some years past, had not occasioned them the least concern. Nor was it probable that they would be liable hereafter to any sort of inconvenience in those respects; for, besides the high reputation, and universal good opinion they had acquired amongst all classes of the inhabitants, they were now considered in the light of chiefs, and each of them possessed a considerable landed property. Here they lived happily, and in the greatest plenty; and, to their praise be it spoken, the principal object they seemed to have in view was, to correct by gentle means the vices, and encourage by the most laudable endeavours the virtues, of these islanders; in this meritorious undertaking they had evidently made some progress, and there are reasonable grounds to believe, that, by steadily pursuing the same line of conduct, it will in time have a due influence on the general character of these people. From us they received every attention that could serve to raise them in the estimation of the natives: and such an assortment of useful articles for promoting their comforts, as it was in our power to afford.

      Our faithful shipmate Terehooa, who, to the last moment, conducted himself with the greatest integrity and propriety, was also left very advantageously situated, under the protection of the king and his old master Kahowmotoo, with a large assortment of useful implements, and ornamental articles; and being firmly attached to Young and Davis, to whom he could be very useful, and who had it in their power to serve him in return, his future prospects in life seemed to have been much improved by his excursions in the Discovery, of which he seemed very sensible, and which he gratefully acknowledged.

      Thus concluded our transactions at Owhyhee, to which we bad adieu about three in the morning of monday the 3d of march, very highly indebted for our reception, and the abundant refreshments we had procured. These essential comforts I should have entertained no doubt would, in future, have been administered to all visitors who should conduct themselves with common honesty and proper decorum, had we not left behind us a banditti of renegadoes, that had quitted different trading vessels in consequence of disputes with their respective commanders, who had resorted to this island since the preceding year,

under American or Portuguese colours. Amongst them was one Portuguese, one Chinese, and one Genoese, but all the rest appeared to be the subjects of Great Britain, as seemed also the major part of the crew of the brig Washington, although they called themselves Americans. These latter persons, in the character of sailors, amounting to fix or seven in number, had taken up their abode with different chiefs of some power and consequence, who esteemed these people as great acquisitions, from their knowledge of fire-arms; but as no one of them could produce any testimonials of their former good conduct, or even make out a plausible character for himself or his comrades, it is much to be apprehended they may be the means of creating intestine commotions, by inciting the jealousy, and furthering the ambitious views of the haughty chiefs, with whom they are resident. Their machinations to the prejudice of the existing government, however, will prove ineffectual, unless they should be able to elude the watchful attention of Young and Davis; who are both well aware of the danger they ought to be prepared to meet; and whose fidelity to Tamaahmaah, I had every reason to believe, was not of a nature to be shaken by the most flattering temptations.

      That these apprehensions were well founded I could not entertain the least doubt; for soon after my arrival at Owhyhee, I received, by Young, a letter from Mr. William Brown, commanding the Butterworth of London, complaining heavily of a similar set of vagabonds, residing at Woahoo and at Attowai, who had, at the latter place, taken up arms in support of an inferior chief, against the authority of Taio and Titeeree, the sovereigns of that island; and had so far forgotten their allegiance, and the rules which humanity, justice, and common honesty prescribe, as to concert, with the natives of Attowai, a plan for the capturing of an American brig, called the Hancock. This was to have been effected by scuttling her under water, which would induce the crew to suppose the had sprung a very bad leak; when these renegadoes were to advise her being hauled on shore, for the purpose of saving from her as much as possible; and when in this situation, she would be completely in the power, and at the disposal, of the natives. But, happily for those in the vessel, although she was near sinking, in consequence of a hole cut in

her counter by some unknown hand, the rest of the diabolical scheme was detected before the contrivers had time or opportunity to carry it into execution, and by the exertions of the crew the vessel was saved.

      Mr. Brown stated further, that by the bad advice, and far worse example, of these people, the natives of most of the leeward islands had arrived at such a degree of daring insolence, as rendered any communication with them from small vessels, or even anchoring near the shores, highly dangerous; and that he trusted it might be within the limits of my authority to take from these islands such improper and dangerous associates.

      I represented in the strongest terms to Tamaahmaah, all the bad consequences that were likely to result from those people remaining on Owhyhee; but no arguments could prevail upon him, or the chiefs, to deliver them up. Their knowledge in the use and management of fire-arms, made their services of such importance, that it was evident nothing but compulsion would have any effect; and to have resorted to such a measure, in which I was by no means certain how far I should be justifiable, would necessarily have produced a breach, and destroyed that harmony which we had taken so much pains to establish, and care to preserve. In addition to which, these people were stated to possess landed property in the island, and to have conformed to the laws, both civil and religious. Nor had any specific charge been exhibited against the seven sailors living on Owhyhee, like that produced by Mr. Brown against those at Attowai and Woahoo.

      With Kavaheeroo also resided a person by the name of Howell, who had come to Owhyhee in the capacity of a clerk on board the Washington; he appeared to possess a good understanding, with the advantages of an university education, and had been once a clergyman in England, but had now secluded himself from European society: so that with Young, Davis, and Boid, there were now eleven white men on the island; but, excepting from these latter, I much fear that our Owhyhean friends will have little reason to rejoice in any advantages they will receive from their new civilized companions.

      To Young and Davis I delivered such testimonials of their good conduct as I considered them fully intitled to, for the purpose of securing to them the respect and confidence of future visitors, who would be warned by them of the snares and dangers they were liable to, from the evil-disposed, civilized or savage inhabitants of the country.

      The land wind blew faintly, and our progress from Owhyhee was so flow, that an opportunity was afforded to a few small canoes from the shores of Koaarra to visit us as we passed; but we did not recognize any of the chiefs, or our former acquaintances. Towards noon the sea breeze reached us, with which we stood to windward, in order to pass to the north of the east point of Mowee; this engaged our time until after noon on the following day, when we bore away along the north side of that island.

      In this route we fell in with the south-east side of Mowee, near to the station where our survey had commenced the preceding year; and in beating round the western part of the island, which does not terminate in a projecting point, but forms a large rounding promontory, we very anxiously looked out for the harbour mentioned by Captain King, as reported by the natives to exist in that neighbourhood; but nothing was seen that could warrant such a representation, excepting two small open coves, situated on each fide of the eastern extremity of the island; these, answering all the purposes of the inhabitants with their canoes, probably induced them to suppose that such accommodations were all we required. Off this eastern extremity, which, according to our observations, is situated in latitude 20° 44½', longitude 203° 58', and bearing by compass from the north-west point of Owhyhee N. 7 W., at the distance of 9 leagues, lies a small islet, with some rocks between it and the more. To the north of this islet is a remarkably elevated hummock, rising almost perpendicularly from the sea, but gradually descending in a slope in land; it was covered with a pleasing verdure, and occupied by several houses, but destitute of trees or shrubs. The adjacent country; which was moderately elevated, presented a fertile appearance, and seemed to be thickly inhabited, as far back as the foot of those mountains that compose the eastern part of the island. As we passed this rounding pro-

montory, some detached rocks were noticed lying about half a mile from the shore, along which we sailed at a distance from two to four miles, and found it a little indented, and chiefly composed of steep rugged cliffs.

      The wind being light, enabled a few of the natives to visit us during the afternoon, but they had little with them to dispose of; in the evening they returned home, and at dark we hauled off the shore in order to preserve our station for continuing our survey. The next morning we again stood in for the land, passing the deep bay that bounds the northern side of the isthmus, which connects the two lofty ranges of mountains that form the island of Mowee. A very heavy surf beat on the low sandy shores of the bay, from whence a few of the natives, as ill appointed for barter as the former, paid us a visit.

      From these people we understood that Titeeree was at Woahoo, and that Taio was at Morotoi; but that Namahanna, who in the absence of Titeeree had been left in charge of the government, accompanied by three or four other chiefs and some inferior people, were unfortunately in a house that contained the major part of the gunpowder Titeeree possessed, when it took fire and blew up. By this accident Namahanna, with two other chiefs and some of the people, had been killed, and all the rest had been very badly wounded. This house appeared, by their account, to have been appropriated by Titeeree as a magazine; that the accident had happened only a few days before our arrival, and that some of the persons who had been hurt had since died of their wounds.

      A fine breeze from the N. E., with clear and pleasant weather, brought, us by noon up to the north-west point of Mowee. The observed latitude at this time was 21° 7', longitude 203° 23'. The point bore by compass S. 8 W., distant four miles; off this lie an islet and some rocks, at a small distance from the shore, which is steep and cliffy. Having thus completed our intended survey of Mowee, we stood over, and brought to within about half a league of the north-east point of Morotoi, in the expectation of seeing Taio; for whom, as well as for Titeeree, I had reserved some sheep, for establishing the breed in each of the islands. Taio, we had understood, resided some where hereabouts, and

some of the natives who came off to us repeated this intelligence, but added that the day being taboo poory, it was impossible we should receive a visit from him.

      We continued nearly stationary for three hours, in the hope of obtaining some vegetables, but none were to be procured; at five we made sail, and as the Chatham the preceding year had examined the north side of this island, our course was directed for the north-east side of Woahoo; which at day-light the succeeding morning bore by compass from W. to S. 27 W., and Morotoi, from S. 32 E. to S. 45 E. We continued our survey from what we had formerly examined on the southern part of this side of the island, and shortly after noon we passed its north point; which, according to our observations, is in latitude 21° 42½, longitude 202° 1'; the former being three miles further south, and the latter fourteen miles further west, than the situation of that point as laid down by Captain King; our present survey however, corresponded with our former observations, as to the position of the south-east point of Woahoo; and made this side of the island four miles longer than Captain King's delineation; and agreed better with our estimated distance between Woahoo and Attowai. In every other respect our examination confirmed the remarks of Captain King; excepting, that in point of cultivation or fertility, the country did not appear in so flourishing a state, nor to be so numerously inhabited, as he represented it to have been at that time, occasioned most probably by the constant hostilities that had existed since that period.

      My intentions were to have stopped near the run of water off which the Resolution and Discovery had anchored, called by the natives Whymea, and rendered memorable by the fatal catastrophe that had awaited the commander and the astronomer of the Dædalus. Here I was in expectation of procuring an interview with Titeeree, who we had been informed was then in this neighbourhood; but learning from a few of the inhabitants, who visited us in a small, shabby, single canoe, that he was gone to Whyteete, and there being at this time a very heavy north-west swell that broke incessantly, and with great violence, on all the adjacent shores, to which from their greatly exposed situation they seemed very liable; and having also finished our survey; we quitted Woahoo, and

directed our course towards the north-east part of Attowai, which at day-light in the morning bore by compass from N. 84 W. to S. 40 W. As we approached its shores, the same influence was felt from a northerly current, as we had before experienced; but the wind being to the southward, it did not prevent our passing to the north of the island, which, at noon, bore by compass from S. 75 W. to S. 25 E.; and the north-east extremity of the island, extending from the forked hill mentioned on our last visit hither, S. 13 E., distant three miles and a half. In this situation the observed latitude was 22° 15', longitude 200° 36'. Here we rejoined the American brig Washington, which had sailed with us from Karakakooa, but had directed her course to the southward of the islands, for Whyteete in Woahoo, where she had remained five days. Amongst other articles that Mr. Kendrick had procured whilst there, was eighty pounds weight of very fine bees wax, that had drifted by the sea on to the shores of that island, and had very recently been picked up by the natives; and I now understood that some pieces had also been procured from the natives of the other islands by Mr. Kendrick, who in a great measure confirmed the account contained in Mr. Brown's letter to me, of the very improper conduct of the merchant seamen who had deserted, or otherways quitted the vessels to which they had belonged, for the purpose of residing amongst these islanders. In this number were some whom he had formerly left at Attowai, but he now seemed to be determined that they should no longer remain on that island.

      The wind during the afternoon was light and variable, consequently we made little progress. In the course of the day we procured a small supply of hogs, yams, and vegetables. At sun-set a small islet lying near the shore, and situated from the north-east point of the island N. 55 W., six miles and a half distant, bore by compass S. 33 W., about two miles from us, and the shores of the island, which are alternately cliffs and beaches, bore from S. 50 E. to S. 71 W.

      The night was passed as usual in preserving our station, and in the morning we again stood in for the land; about eight o'clock we were off a small deep bay; its east point lies from the above islet west, distant four

miles; this bay is nearly half a league wide, and about the same depth; but being exposed to the violence of the north-westerly winds, and the oceanic swell, is ineligible for shipping, and therefore we did not examine it further; but continued our route with a fine breeze from the N. E. at the distance of about two miles from the shore, passing some rocks and breakers, that extend a small distance from the west point of the bay; where the coast of Attowai assumes a very rugged and romantic appearance, rising suddenly to lofty abrupt cliffs, that jet out into a variety of steep, rugged, rocky points, apparently destitute of both soil and verdure, but terminating nearly in uniform even summits, on which, as well as in the vallies or chasms that were formed between the points, were small patches of lively green that produced a very singular effect. This fort of coast continued to the north-west point of the island. As we approached this point, the regular trade wind being intercepted by these lofty shores, we were retarded by light variable breezes, and were frequently becalmed. At noon the observed latitude was 22° 12', longitude 200° 10½'. The island of Onehow bore by compass from S. 31 W. to S. 44 W.; Oreehooa, S. 51 W.; and Attowai, from N. 78 E. to S. 9 E.; its north-west point being the nearest shore, S. 37 E., distant three miles. From this point the country assumed a very different aspect; it descended suddenly from the mountains, and terminated in a low sandy shore, somewhat diversified by eminences, and a few scattered habitations, but wearing a steril and desolate appearance.

      In the afternoon we were favored with a gentle northerly breeze, which by sun-set brought us to the west point of the island, situated, according to our observations, in latitude 22°, longitude 200° 10'; off which extends a reef of rocks, about half a mile from the shore.

      Having now completed the survey of Attowai, we met the regular trade wind, with which we stood to windward for Whymea bay, in that, island; where, at nine the next morning, we anchored in 23 fathoms, soft bottom, and moored with a cable each way; the points of the bay bore by compass N. 77 W. to S. 65 E: the river S. 35 E., distant half a league. Here we again met the Washington; Mr. Kendrick, having beaten round the east end of the island, had arrived two days before us.

      Our arrival was soon known, and we were early visited by many of our former friends and acquaintances. Amongst the number were the two young women I had brought from Nootka and settled here; during our late absence they had been treated with great kindness and civility, yet they were both very apprehensive that, on our finally quitting these seas, the attentive behaviour they had hitherto experienced would be discontinued. I however embraced the first opportunity of obtaining from all the principal chiefs the most solemn assurances of the contrary.

      We found Enemo, who had now changed his name to Wakea, still alive, and though in a somewhat better state of health than when we last left him, he was yet in a most deplorably emaciated condition.

      Since our late departure, Enemo had attempted to acquire the supreme authority in the government of these islands, independent of Titeeree and Taio. To effect this object he had been assisted by Mr. Kendrick's people, and the rest of the European and American renegadoes; in whose support and knowledge in the use of fire-arms he had placed the greatest reliance, and had been induced to declare and consider his independency as certain. These proceedings soon reached the ear of Titeeree, who sent a chief and a party of men to inquire into the cause of so sudden an alteration, and to know if it were countenanced by the chiefs and people of the island, amongst whom the regent had not been considered as very popular. But the intentions of these unfortunate people being supposed to be hostile to the interest or views of Enemo, they were met as they approached the shore, and, without any previous inquiry into the nature of their errand, were opposed by a small party of Enemo's adherents conducted by the renegadoes, who, with their muskets drove them with great slaughter from the island, and pursued them in their slight until they left very few to relate the unfortunate issue of their embasssy, to Titeeree; and the untimely fate of those who had fallen, to their inquiring relations and friends. This melancholy event would not, most probably, have happened, had not these strangers advised and assisted in the perpetration of this diabolical and unprovoked barbarity; in extenuation of which they plead, that they were compelled to act this

savage part in order to preserve the good opinion of, and keep themselves in favor with, the chief.

      The Butterworth arriving at Woahoo shortly after the return of this unfortunate expedition, Titeeree solicited Mr. Brown to take him to Attowai for the purpose of effecting, in an amicable way, an accommodation with this rebellious chief. With this Mr. Brown complied, and after an explanatory interview on board his ship, all matters were compromised to the mutual satisfaction of both parties; and since that period the island has enjoyed tranquillity, though it still remained under the government of Enemo as regent.

      But to return. We received an early visit from Enemo and Tamooerrie, accompanied only by a few chiefs, but by a great number of women, who were, for the most part, of some consequence, and attendants on his court. From the regent and prince I received a present of a few indifferent hogs, though, according to their assertions, they were some of the best on the island. The stock of these animals, they said, by the great demand from the trading vessels for them for some time past, had been much reduced; and judging from the small number that were brought for sale, we had no reason to discredit their information. A supply of vegetables was what we had principally depended upon procuring here, and in this expectation it appeared we were likely to be more successful; though the yams, by far the best species for sea store, were also very scarce.

      During the afternoon the trade wind blew a very strong gale; it moderated for a few hours in the evening, but in the night was attended by heavy gusts from the N.N.E. A continuance of this weather, although it did not prevent, much retarded the natives, in their passage from the shore to the ships with the supplies we required, until the afternoon of the 11th; when it becoming more moderate, I paid my respects to the regent at his residence on shore, in consequence of an invitation to an evening amusement, Which, from the description of it by the natives, was very different from those I had before attended.

      Having been disappointed in seeing either Titeeree or Taw, I took this opportunity of depositing with Enemo the breeding sheep I had intend ed for those chiefs; giving him to understand, that in proportion as they

multiplied they were to be distributed amongst the other islands; and the produce of them were put under the same restrictions as I had exacted at Owhyhee; with all which, himself, and the chiefs then present, very seriously promised to comply.

      On our arrival at the place of exhibition, we found the performers assembled, consisting of a numerous throng, chiefly of women, who were dressed in their various coloured clothes, disposed with a good effect. The entertainment consisted of three parts, and was performed by three different parties, consisting of about two hundred women in each, who ranged themselves in five or six rows, not standing up, nor kneeling, but rather sitting upon their haunches. One man only advanced a few feet before the centre of the front row of the ladies, who seemed to be the hero of the piece, and, like a flugal man, gave tone and action to the entertainment. In this situation and posture they exhibited a variety of gestures, almost incredible for the human body so circumstanced to perform. The whole of this numerous group was in such perfect unison of voice and action, that it were impossible, even to the bend of a finger, to have discerned the least variation. Their voices were melodious, and their actions were as innumerable as, to me, they are undescribable; they exhibited great case and much elegance, and the whole was executed with a degree of correctness not easily to be imagined. This was particularly striking in one part, where the performance instantly changed from a loud full chorus, and vast agitation in the countenances and gestures of the actors, to the most profound silence and composure; and instead of continuing in their previous erect attitude, all fell down as it were lifeless, and in their fall buried themselves under their garments; conveying, in some measure, the idea of a boisterous ocean becoming suddenly tranquillized by an instant calm. The great diversity of their figured dresses on this occasion had a particularly good effect; the several other parts were conducted with the same correctness and uniformity, but were less easy to describe. There appeared to be much variety and little repetition, not only in the acting of the respective sets, but in the whole of the three parts; the performers in which, could not amount to less than six hundred persons. This boorah was completely free

from the disgusting obscenity exhibited in the former entertainments, which I have before had occasion to notice. It was conducted through every part with great life and vivacity; and was, without exception, the most pleasing amusement of the kind we had seen performed in the course of the voyage.

      The spectators, who were as numerous as at Owhyhee, were in their best apparel, and all retired very peaceably after the close of the performance, about the setting of the sun.

      All our friends seemed to be much gratified with the applause we had bestowed, and the satisfaction we expressed at the great skill, dexterity, and taste of the performers. This entertainment was stated to be in compliment to the pregnancy of one of the regent's wives, and that it would frequently be repeated until the was brought to bed; which event was expected to take place in about three months.

      In return for the amusement we had derived, we entertained the multitude after it was dark in our way, by a display of fire works, which as usual were received with great surprize and admiration.

      The weather being more settled, on the following day we completed our water; and having procured a few hogs, with a tolerable supply of vegetables, our intended departure was made known to the regent prince and the rest of the chiefs; who, on receiving such presents as their services had demanded or the occasion required, all took their leave, (excepting one or two who proposed to accompany us to Onehow,) with every expression of the most friendly regard and attachment, and with repeated solicitations for our speedy return.

      For the purpose of procuring a sea stock of yams, which we were given to understand by the natives might be readily obtained at Onehow, we quitted Attowai in the morning of the 13th, and directed our course to that island.

      By our several visits to Attowai, we had found that the roadstead of Whymea was much confined in respect of safe anchorage; for although the Discovery's cables had not been injured by a foul bottom, yet the Chatham, in march 1792, when anchored in 30 fathoms water at only a convenient distance to the north-west of the Discovery, on a bottom of

soft mud, had both her cables much fretted and damaged by the rocks at the bottom; and not far to the eastward of our easternmost anchor was found also a patch of rocky bottom, in some places not deeper than 4 fathoms, though surrounded by a depth of from 30 to 40 fathoms.

      Although a situation more convenient to the shore, in a less depth of water and with a muddy bottom, might have been taken within the Discovery's Ration, and is to be found by keeping the steep banks of the river not shut in, but just a little open; yet, from the lurking patches of rocks that have been found near the same sort of bottom, it is evident that great caution should be observed to avoid those hidden dangers; which may serve to account for the cables of former vessels having been cut through, without resorting to an operation which appears to me incredible, and I believe impossible to have been effected.

      It had been positively asserted, and I doubt not as positively believed, that the natives were capable of diving to the depth of 40 fathoms, and there cutting through a twelve or fourteen inch cable; they have not only been suspected and accused of accomplishing this task, but have been fired upon by some whose cables have been supposed to be thus injured; an act not to be justified by common humanity, or commonsense. These people are however very expert swimmers, and almost as dexterous as fish in the water, but their efforts are chiefly confined to the surface; though some of them dive exceedingly well, yet they are not capable of descending to such a depth, or of remaining under water a sufficient time to cut through a cable.

      One of the best divers of the country in Tamaahmaah's estimation, I saw endeavour at Karakakooa to recover a caulking iron that had been dropped in 12 fathoms water; and in order to induce his utmost exertion, a great reward was offered to him if he succeeded; but after two unsuccessful attempts he was so tired and exhausted, that he was unable to make a third trial then, though he promised to renew his exertions the next day; the same reward was then again offered to him, but he could not be prevailed upon to make another effort, and the caulking iron remained at the bottom.

      About two in the afternoon we anchored off the west side of Onehow, in 18 fathoms water, soft sandy bottom; the north-west point of the island bearing by compass N. 25 E., half a league distant; the nearest shore E.S.E., about a mile and a quarter; its west point S. 15 E..; Tahoorowa S. 43 W.; and the outer part of the reef that extends from the north-west point of Onehow, N. 8 E.

      In the evening, Mr. Puget, who I had directed to examine the north west side of this island, in the Chatham joined us, and acquainted me that the Chatham was very crank.

      We had now accomplished our survey of the Sandwich islands; and as our expectations were appointed in the promised supply of yams, in the evening of the 14th we took our leave of Onehow.

      In the situation where we had anchored, our cables had not received any damage; but the Chatham, at anchor near us, hooked a rock under water, which engaged them some time, and was with difficulty cleared; after great danger of losing the anchor, as the cable was nearly chased through by the rocks. It is here necessary to remark, that although this station has been the general rendezvous of the several vessels that have resorted hither, for the yams and other refreshments that Onehow once afforded, it is in all respects greatly inferior to the place of our anchorage on our former visit; the bottom here being at a greater depth, and very rocky, and the situation open, and exposed to all the violence of the north and north-west winds, and the swell of the ocean. The other situation is protected from this inconvenience, with the additional advantages of a less depth of water, and a clear bottom of good holding ground. It is not, however, quite so central for the inhabitants to bring the produce of the island to market; but this is of little importance, for when they have any to dispose of the distance is not regarded by them.

      At the anchorage we had just quitted, we left the Washington and an American ship called the Nancy; the latter had arrived only a short time before our departure; and as it was natural to suppose that the must have recently quitted the civilized world, her approach produced no small degree of anxiety in the hope of obtaining some European in-

telligence. But we were disappointed in these hopes, as those on board of her were as totally ignorant of transactions there as ourselves, having been absent from New York twenty-two months; during which time they had been principally engaged at Falkland's islands and Staten land, in collecting seal skins and oil. Not being satisfied with their endeavours to the southward, they had repaired hither to procure provisions and refreshments, with the intention of proceeding afterwards to the coast of North West America, in order to collect furs, which they understood were to be had there; but, according to their own account, they neither knew what were the proper commodities, nor were they possessed of any articles of traffic for obtaining such a cargo from the inhabitants of the several countries.

      On sailing from Onehow, I appointed cape Douglas in Cook's river our next place of rendezvous with the Chatham, in case of separation. There I purposed to re-commence our survey of the coast of North West America; and from thence to trace its boundary eastward to cape Decision, the point which is stated to have terminated the pretended ancient Spanish discoveries.

      Having ascertained satisfactorily that there was not any extensive navigation eastwardly, between the 30th and 56th degrees of north latitude, on this side of the American continent, I was led to believe, that if any such did exist, it would most probably be found communicating with Cook's river, up which I entertained no doubt of penetrating to a very considerable distance; and should we not be able to complete our researches in the course of the present season, we should at any rate, by this mode, reduce the unexplored part of the coast within very narrow limits. And as the examination of Cook's river appeared to me to be the most important, and I did not doubt would prove the most laborious, part of our task in the ensuing campaign, I was willing not to lose any portion of the approaching season, but to avail ourselves of the whole of it, for the sake of insuring, as far as was within our powers, a certainty in the accomplishment of that object. For this purpose I wished to be in readiness to commence the pursuit the instant the spring was sufficiently ad-

vanced to render our endeavours practicable, and which was now likely to be the case by the time we should reach that distance.

      It was not much out of our way to ascertain the situation of a small island, discovered in 1788 by the commander of the Prince of Wales, and by him called Bird island, in consequence of its being the resort of vast flocks of the feathered tribe; and also to examine the neighbouring parts of the ocean, where Captain Cook in his passage from Oonalashka to the Sandwich islands in the year 1778 saw a shag, and other indications of the vicinity of land. For these purposes, our course was first directed N.W. by N. in quest of Bird island, under an easy sail, in order to allow the Chatham to come up with us, which the did about midnight.

      At day-light on the 15th we made all sail, and stood more to the westward, surrounded by an immense number and considerable variety of oceanic birds, consisting of the small black and white albatrosses, tropic, and men of war birds; with boobies, noddies, and petrels of different kinds. In the forenoon the wind at E. N. E. blew a fresh gale, and in consequence of some of the back-stays giving way, we were obliged to reduce our sail; and as we had but little cordage to replace such rigging, these defects became a consideration of a very unpleasant nature in this early part of our summer's expedition.

      At noon the latitude observed was 23° 14', longitude 198° 42'; the former was 14' further north than was shewn by our reckoning, and was nearly the same distance to the north of the latitude assigned to Bird island; but as we expected to find it further to the westward, though by some accounts we had now passed its meridian, our course was directed to the south-west, and by two in the afternoon it was seen bearing by compass W. S. W. about 7 leagues distant. About six in the evening we reached, and passed along the southern side of, this very remarkable, solitary island, or more properly speaking, single rock, rising out of this immense ocean. Its greatest extent, which was in a direction S. 74 W., and N. 71 E., did not exceed one mile; the uncouth form of its northern, eastern, and western extremities, against which the sea broke with great violence, presented a most awful appearance, rising perpendicularly from the ocean in lofty rugged cliffs, inaccessible but to its winged inhabitants:

on its southern side the ascent is not so steep and abrupt; and near its western extremity is a small sandy beach, where in fine weather, and with a smooth sea, a landing might probably be effected. At this place there was the appearance of a little verdure, though it was destitute of tree or shrub; every other part was apparently without soil, and consisted only of the naked rock. Its whole circumference does not exceed a league, and it is situated in latitude 23° 6', longitude 198° 8'. When this rock was first discovered in 1788, there were on board the Prince of Wales some of the natives of Attowai, who expressed great surprize that there should be land so near to their islands (it lying from Onehow N. 51 W. at the distance of 39 leagues only,) and of which not only themselves, but all their countrymen were totally ignorant.

      This intelligence was communicated on their return in the autumn of that year; and it excited in the active mind of Taio a strong desire to pay it a visit, to establish a colony there, and to annex it to his dominions; but on his being made thoroughly acquainted with its extent and sterility by the officers of that vessel, his project was abandoned. Those people however recognize it under the appellation of Modoo Mannoo, that is, Bird island; and from its great distance from all other land, and its proximity to their islands, it seems to claim some distant pretensions to be ranked in the group of the Sandwich islands, of which we now took leave, pursuant to the determination already stated.

Views of the Sandwich and Other Islands.
[Click to enlarge image]

• WHYTEETE BAY WOAHOO in Lat^de. 21° 17' N^th and Long^de 202° 10 E^t nearest Shore N.N.E. distant 2 Miles Var^tn 8° E^t


• WHYMEA BAY ATOOI in Lat^de 21° 57' N^th & Long^de 200° 19' E^t -- Entrance of the River N. 31° E^t distant 2 Miles Var^tn 8° E^t


• RAHEINA ROADSTEAD MOWEE in Lat^de 20° 50' N^th and Long^de 203° 19' E^t -- West Point N^th 26° W^t distant 4 Miles Var^tn 7° 30' E^t


• MODOO MANNOO^* in Lat^de 23° 06' N^th & Long^de 198° 08' E^t half a Mile distant Var^tn 8° 15' E^t


• The Island of COCOAS in Lat^de 5° 35' N^th and Long^de 273° 5' E^t distant 5 or 6 Miles Var^tn 7° 45' E^t


• ALBEMARLE ISLAND the Westernmost of the GALLAPAGOS ISLES Cape Berkeley in Lat^de 00° 02' N^th & Long^de 268° 30' E^t bearing E.N.E. nearest Shore S^th. 55° E^t distant 3 Miles Var^tn 8° East



• London: Published May 1st 1798, by J. Edwars Pall Mall & G. Robinson Paternoster Row.

George Vancouver.
John Vancouver (ed.)
      A Voyage of Discovery to the North Pacific Ocean, and Round the World; In which the Coast of North-west America Has Been Carefully Examined and Accurately Surveyed. Undertaken by His Majesty's Command, Principally with a View to Ascertain the Existence of Any Navigable Communication Between the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans; and Performed in the Years 1790, 1791, 1792, 1793, 1794, and 1795, in the Discovery Sloop of War, and Armed Tender Chatham, Under the Command of Captain George Vancouver.
  Three Volumes.
London: G.G. and J. Robinson ... and J. Edwards, 1798.
Vol. 1, pp.152-190.

      The volume from which this selection has been transcribed is available at Google Books.

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